Damir Doma

While Steve is off gallivanting in Hong Kong with his lovely lady friend, I've been left behind replying to emails and watching the darts. Thankfully for me both the darts and the emails have been surprisingly interesting. When the lovely Charlotte at oki-ni dropped us an email to let us know that the Damir Doma archive had gone live, it rang some bells.

Wait- Damir Doma, the guy that did those amazing all red outfits?

Yep.

Wait- Damir Doma, the guy who really knows a thing or two about shape?

Yep. (Man alive, that's a good outfit)

Wait, the man with those AMAZING boots with the zipper down the front?

Oh hells yes!

Wow, I love that guy. Why did I forget to post about him when I first saw his stuff? Anyway, a great choice for their archive series. Steve couldn't help but comment:

"I really like the idea of oki-ni's archive because it encourages people to think beyond the seasons and to pick key pieces from each collection. It goes against the throwaway culture of fashion. If you love a piece why not take good care of it and wear it for years to come? For a young designer like Doma it must mean a lot to be supported in such a way, with an archive that showcases his considerable design talent."

Hey Steve, quit muscling in on my posts! He's right though, it's great that they're showcasing someone so young and talented. Doma's designs are just that little bit left field- nicely androgynous with a bold use of colour and draping- while somehow still managing to be timeless (I know, I hate that word too). I am massively coveting his wide-legged trousers at the moment... and just look at these sandals!

Here's what Oki Ni's creative director, John Skelton, has to say about the man:

"Damir’s taste levels and attention to detail mixed with perfect execution and ability to create such a warm and powerful environment in which to show his work has captured the hearts and the minds of product enthusiasts all over the world."

And now if you don't mind, I'm going to finish watching the darts.

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Style Salvage Speaks to... YMC

As you all know we have joined up with my-wardrobe to offer one lucky reader five hundred pounds to spend on a new winter wardrobe from YMC. This British born brand were one of the very first brands we featured here on the blog. Formed in 1996, YMC have played a key role in the resurgence of workwear and have seen so much so we jumped at the chance to speak to them about their experiences in the industry, their own personal style and how they see the brand devoloping over the next few years.


SS: How did it all start for you? What were your inspirations, your dreams and the driving catalyst behind YMC?
Fraser: I have always been more interested than personal style over fashion and this was the driving force behind starting up YMC. At the time (1995) everything was brand led or American 'skate' inspired so we felt there was a real gap in the market for the kind of clothes we were looking for.

SS: Describe what YMC means to you...
Fraser: Hopefully a brand with integrity

SS: Having launched as a menswear brand in 1995 you’ve certainly been around for a lot longer than most people realise. How has the industry evolved over this time?
Fraser: Today the fashion industry is far more professional, corporate and less naive than when we started which I think makes thing much harder for labels and designers starting up now.


SS: Over the last few seasons we've seen a real rise in the interest surrounding workwear style. Having offered classic designs showcasing quality fabrics and an attention detail for some time now, what is your take on the rise in interest?
Fraser: Inevitable as everything tends to go in cycles and the last time this was popular was the early 90s but to be honest it has always been an influence to us and this would have been more noticable from our Winter 2004 collection onwards.

SS: In a recent interview with The Independent you confess that early on you ‘knew nothing about production and made some very bad decisions’ and after initial success you were forced to close your shop on Conduit Street and abandoned your womenswear line. Thankfully, today, you have a busy flagship store in Soho and your relaunched womenswear line is in its third season. You must be feeling pretty good about it all. Do you think that this has made success all the sweeter now?
Jimmy: No not really . If anything it’s been a constant reminder of how tough this business is , its been a valuable lesson . We still have plenty of room to improve...

SS: With regard to production, how have you changed things from the set up in the late 90s?
Jimmy: The company that backs us helps on the production , they have offices worldwide who look after our needs . Our quantities are small
But with their assistance the collection gets produced.

SS: What were the first and last items you remember designing?
Fraser: First: Our first collection which was Winter 95 and it was a jacket and dress inspired by my wife Jody's military jumpsuit
Last: Autumn Winter 2010 Footwear collection.

SS: How do you see the YMC brand developing over the next few years?
Jimmy: We would hope to develop the business by opening in store concessions / further YMC stand alone stores. Also for SS.10 we have launched a new range on Men’s called ‘ basic ’ which has great potential.

SS: Which fellow designers/brands do you admire? Other than YMC, which brands do you wear?
Fraser: I don't really follow fashion and prefer not to look at other labels. I only wear a mixture of vintage and YMC.

SS: What item of clothing (if any) do you wish that more men wore?
Fraser: It's not so much the items but the way they are worn. I'd like to see men being a bit more confident with their own personal style.

SS: How would you describe your personal style? The brand ethos is You Must Create your own style but do you have any style icons?
Fraser: Detail is paramount but I couldn't really say what my 'personal style' is as it's something that I naturally do!

SS: The current collection is inspired by Depression era workwear. If you could go back in time and experience any moment/era of style, what would it be?
Fraser: I'd need a Tardis as there are so many periods I love and whatever I am inspired by when designing at the time tends to be my favourite.

The shopfront in Soho.

SS: What are you favourite pieces currently available from YMC?
Fraser: The waxed cotton hunting and fishing jacket and a shawl collared Chore jacket in cotton/wool and of course a pair of our jeans which I think are a really good men's cut and in particular for anyone looking for an alternative to a skinny jean.

SS: Finally, would you be able to share a few address book recommendations with our readers (hairdressers, tailors, cafes...anything you like really) which we will duly add to our map.
Gary at Sean Paul Barbers in Brighton. He's around my age and like me was part of most youth cultures from punk onwards so this gives him the edge over a lot of younger hairdressers. Lewes for all things old. It has a great array of really interesting antique shops full of curios.

A reminder of how we would spend the money...

For your chance to win, enter here. You have until 27th November 2009 to win. Good luck!

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J. Lindeberg AW09: The documentary and a dream

J. Lindeberg invite you in to their world...

As I take a well deserved break from the trials and tribulations of packing I thought I'd share a recent bit of post with you. Given the current state of the postal system in the capital, receiving anything through the mail is a rare occurrence and anything received (even a tear inducing, sorry excuse for a bank statement) is something to be treasured. This particular piece of mail however, is something to marvel over and treasure...it currently has pride of place on my coffee table...

Holding up J. Lindeberg's 'The Documentary and a dream' whilst wearing one of their trenches (picked up in Stockholm last year).

The nice folk at J. Lindeberg sent through a copy of their first biannual for me to savour. One of only four hundred copies made, I certainly count myself lucky! The generous large format book evolved from the labels desire to tell the complete story of what they do and why they do it. The story it waves is one that expands way beyond the realms of the standard look book and runway views we are all accustomed to seeing. There are one hundred and eighty two pages of beautiful pictures and illustrations, alongside insightful interviews. I wish more brands pushed themselves to offer more than the usual press materials which circulate after a collection. It is more akin to an issue of Acne Paper rather than your usual look book. Like the Acne Paper it is a publication which weaves together people, imagery, history, newness and takes great pleasure in information exchange and learning. It offers a glimpse in to the inner workings of the industry and the inspirations behind it all whilst, of course showcasing the AW09 offering...

Just one of the many inspiring editorials inside 'The Documentary and a dream'...Photographed by Katja Rahwles

This Scandinavian brand is well-known for the quality of its garments and for its unique philosophy and it is great to see it evolve in this manner. The J. Lindeberg team called in the help of a few close friends and sent them off with a single mission - to capture the inner spirit of J. Lindeberg and in particular, their Autumn Winter 2009 collection.

I can but dream of growing such a beard

Inspiration for the collection came from a combination of Serge Gainsbourg and Yves Klein. It’s about quintessential French masculinity and an approach to life where you don’t save your best necessarily for special occasions but rather, celebrate them every day. This mantra of everyday style is subtly repeated throughout the imagery and text of this book.

One of my favourite illustrations within a wonderful spread by Liselotte Watkins.

The book achieves it's aim to document a world which is more style than trend and one that breaks new ground in traditional areas. It offers a reinterpretation of fashion, sport and elegant functionality which is true to itself. I do hope that it will be deemed a success and be the first of many such bi annuals from the brand. The only downside of such a large format book is that I am going to need a large, reinforced coffee table. If you don't think your table can handle such a book do not despair, the whole thing is available to flick through online here. Now, please excuse me...I have to get back to the joys of packing...

Another example of the beautiful photography contained in this biannual.

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The search for a good tailor in Hong Kong...

After hearing so much about her beloved Hong Kong, Susie is finally taking me back with her and I could not be more excited! Our plane jets off from Heathrow tomorrow evening and we will be exploring this busy city for eights full days. Whilst much of the trip will revolve around me scoffing my face with all sorts of tasty treats there will be plenty of time for me to do enjoy the sport of shopping. Dim sum, egg balls, roast goose and even snake have found themselves on the growing menu of my mind but I'd like to explore all that the city has to offer in regard to men's style as well. Top of the list is excellent, affordable tailoring. Hong Kong has long been a world-leader in producing bespoke and made to measure suits at half the price of their London and New York counterparts (whilst conceding very little on quality). Regular readers will know that my fascination with the craftsmanship of good tailoring is long held and I cannot wait to discover what Hong Kong has to offer me.

My initial research shows that there are just too many tailors in Hong Kong to tell which are of any quality. To save much head scratching on my part, I am opening up the comments section to your suggestions. Now, please don't be shy. I appreciate that even if I get a good recommendation from you, your positive experiences won't guarantee one for me, so no pressure at all. I'd love to hear from one and all. In a city where tailors are ten a penny your guidance will be invaluable.

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Style Salvage Speaks to... Albam

Founded in Nottingham in 2006 by James Shaw and Alastair Rae initially as an online mail order company with just seven designs in the catalogue, albam have gone from strength to strength and deservedly so. Last month saw the opening of their second store and we were invited to have a nosy around the impressive space. In addition to their wonderful Beak Street store the bloggers' favourite brand have now spread their offering out east to the historic Spitalfields Market. As it grows, albam continues to manufacture their products in Great Britain and where possible and, when it is not, they look as close to home as possible for alternatives. They now have good friends in Portugal, USA and Italy adding to the craftsmanship which is a fundamental facet of the label. We love how the duo aim to bring as much product back to Britain and how they have spent the last couple of years building a business which is enabling their British factories to grow and develop along with them. We spoke with James and Alastair to find out more about the the brand and their plans for the future...

Inside the new store at 111a Commercial Street

SS: How did it all start for you? What were your inspirations, your dreams and the driving catalyst behind albam?

Albam: We started in 2006, had an idea and left our jobs to see where we would get. There was a loose plan on what we wanted to do, having spent years talking, thinking and wondering if we could do it. It got to the point where we had to stop talking about it and just get out there and see where we could get with it all. Wanting to work for ourselves and work with people that are like us was a driving force.

SS: You are entering the third year of albam. For those readers who might have recently found you, you started out in a small office in Nottingham with seven styles in your first catalogue. How have the last few years been, is everything going to plan?
Albam: We have had a pretty steep learning curve and are always learning! When the first store opened, we were working all the time in there, if we weren’t there then we were at factories getting things made and then bringing them back to the store. There has been massive support from both the press and our customers and this has been amazing for us as we just started out with an idea and got on with it. Things are moving forward, the plan always changes but we just keep our heads down and get on with forging ahead.

albam. Made in England - We love these simple tote bags.

SS: What were the first and last item you remember designing for albam?
Albam: The T shirt was the first item we did so that will always stay in the memory. There was a lot of learning involved as we got into the manufacturing process pretty deep and got to meet all the people that we know now and still work with. Being so hands on, we remember pretty much all of them, the latest one that springs to mind is a new Field jacket for March 2010.

SS: Craft and local manufacture are obviously very important to you. Collaboration with local craftsmen and heritage is an integral facet of your brand identity. What have been your favourite collaborations to date? Who would you love to work with in the future?
Albam: Quoddy has been a great partner to work with, as has Grenson in Northampton. Such amazing factories and so much skill goes into these shoes. In the future we are talking to people but all are early days at the moment.

A rail in the new store.

SS: You work with some extremely small and remote factories here in the UK and beyond. Is it difficult to find them and how has your relationships grown over the years
Albam:In the UK they tend not to like signs outside the factories so even with the address finding them is pretty difficult. Word of mouth has introduced us to the factories that we work with. The business that is remaining is tight knit so everyone is interlinked. With regards to relationships we are there most weeks, although the new store has taken some time in looking after it. Our factories are part of the Albam team so everyone is really important to what we do.

SS: How do you see the Albam brand developing over the next couple of years?
Albam: We want to create a brand that stays true to our founding idea, obviously this will develop and grow in terms of range and the people that find out about us. Opening a couple more stores would be great, it would give a real platform for the brand but keep it tight and a discovery/best kept secret for our customers.

albam's perennial favourite, the fair isle hat.

SS: What are you favourite pieces currently available from Albam?
Albam: The blazer we have just released in store is great, and our new Regular jeans are currently being worn a fair amount! We have so much work coming through that it changes all the time!

SS: Finally, would you be able to share a few address book recommendation to our readers (hairdressers, tailors, cafes..anything you like really) which we will duly add to our Map.
Albam: When we are at Beak St, Fernandez & Wells or Monmouth are on the trail for a coffee. At Spitalfields it tends to be Nude or A Gold (for great great sandwiches). Alexander Boyd just off Brushfield Street is a great place for their new tailoring and shirting. Rochelle Canteen for a spot of lunch but closer to the store then St John or The Luxe for a breakfast and then The Albion on Redchurch St. They are mainly food places!

albam. Modern Crafted Clothing. These will help get you through chillier times...

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Transformation through the finer details

The real beauty of menswear is in the details. We have said this many times but neither of us will ever tire of saying it. As we catch our breath from the marathon of fashion weeks, look books and press days, it is time to celebrate the finer details of menswear. It the small details which are so often overlooked and neglected which can transform any mediocre outfit in to something special. A number of recent spots online have combined to give me the required nudge to return to our favourite stlye mantra. First up, Fine and Dandy. One year on since launching Fine and Dandy (see our previous birthday post) is a shop which provides an abundance of finishing details to ensure that you are fine and dandy. Dressing each morning should be fun and accessories like these provide the required pomp and colour. From the grey Herringbone Newsboy cap to a small gold key tie bar (my particular favourite) to an array of handkerchiefs and pocket squares. Since we wished them a very happy birthday, I've been drooling over their selection of accessories whilst declaring my intent to add more layers to my everyday outfit.

Celebrating accessories. Two looks from Fine and Dandy.

The chaps over at Street Etiquette never fail to inspire and I've really enjoyed their Accessories Are A Necessity feature. After the first post on ‘Wrist Ornaments’ they turned their attentions to the humble 'Pocket Square'. JKISSI certainly has an enviable collection. The post is an effective plea for gentlemen readers to tear at the stitching in those unused blazer pockets and experiment with material. Back in July 2007 (man we are getting old) we looked at how they are so much more than hankies but I have to confess that I often over look them. When I talk about pocket squares, it isn't in the strict sense of folded cloth, one can be as imaginative and interesting with filling a breast pocket as possible in my opinion. There are amazing styling perks with a pocket square which most men do not realise; any average or worn out jacket can be instantly livened up with an inexpensive, casually folded pocket handkerchief. Let the below image from Street Etiquette inspire you...

Wearing it well. JKISSI and his enviable collection of pocket squares. Image courtesy of Street Etiquette.

Whenever we discuss the importance of details we always turn the Fred Astaire. Few have worked them better. Astaire was not blessed with the natural aesthetic beauty of some of the his icons of style but Astaire used his style to allow his aesthetics to bloom and even surpass his peers. His style is so casual that any surprises it brings seem ever the more wonderful. He excelled in a relaxed dandyism. His sartorial success is due to the combination of a number of seemingly small touches. Of course, initially these can go unnoticed but once seen, they never fail to excite and wow the viewer. The tie as belt (my personal favourite which I have salvaged for myself), the slanted tie clip and the slim cut sleeves on his suits to name by a few of his little touches. You can watch any one of his films again and again and no doubt you will notice detail after detail. Watching Fred Astaire never fails to inspire me to celebrate the finer details of dressing whilst have fun dressing each morning. I encountered the below Garance Dore shot of Cédric last week and loved his subtle declaration. On the surface he appears to be little more than a casually dressed but cool looking guy, reading a paperback in the sun. You would think that there is very little to talk about. You would be wrong. His wife had embroidered a heart on the inside of the pocket of his shirt. Transforming it from a mundane, dishevelled denim shirt in to a conversation piece. It is all about the finer details.

Cédric as shot by garance dore.

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Boots for the wilderness

Looks from Tim Hamilton's Aw09 collection.

Fashion moves so fast and at this point in to a season I am always a little confused. As the nights come earlier and the days that bit cooler I never know quite what to write about because most of my inspiration is somewhere in the future. Everything around me is geared towards SS10 (look books, press days etc) but in the real world it feels as though we are only just entering Aw09. I feel like I am lost in the great unknown, the fashion wilderness, no man's land. What does one need in the wilderness? Boots of course.

These boots are made for walking...and looking like a modern day dandy. Lanvin Aw09

Lace up boots can be something of a sartorial testosterone shot. They were employed with great effect in a number of Autumn Winter shows, including Alexander Mcqueen, Calvin Klein, Rick Owens, Lanvin and of course, my particular favourite Tim Hamilton. The February shows demonstrated that they can be both smart and causal. This experimentation trickled through to a number of look books, most notably in Christophe Lemaire's offering which saw the French designer use them effectively throughout the relaxed volume and natural textures of his collection. They are a true staple of the season. A catalyst for the silhouette whilst accentuating both skinny and loose fitting trousers.

The waiting game. Lodger's Kudu Brogued Boot.

Regular readers will know that I fell head over heels for Lodger's September shoe of the month, the Kudu Brogued Boot and I am now (im)patiently waiting their delivery. The wait will undoubtedly be worth it. The boot is an eight eyelet brogued style, and has a skeleton lining of the same Kudu leather as the upper, and a full lining in a plush purple velvet from Scabal. As there is only a certain amount of kudu leather available Lodger can only make around twenty five pairs or so. With this in mind and to pass the time until I can shoe horn my feet in to my beloved Kudu's I have trawled through the best of the rest online. There are just so many beautiful boots available online. If you too are stumbling around the fashion wilderness then take a look at the offerings below...

The best of the rest list (clockwise from top left):

• Raf Simons for Dr Martens 8 hole boot: Raf Simons works his magic on a simple and classic 8 hole DM boot in a black leather. Available from oki-ni.

• Ann Demeulemeester buckle lace up worker boots: Black leather lace-up worker boots from Ann Demeulemeester featuring a buckled strap around the top of the boot. Fine if you have a spare £695. Available from farfetch.

• B Store suede lace up worker boot: Navy suede ankle boot from b Store with seam detailing and grey laces. Available from farfetch and bstore.

• Trickers Tan Leather boot: Something of a classic. Tan leather brogue style lace-up boots by Trickers. Available from farfetch.

• Alexander McQueen ‘Calamity Halfboot’: A sturdy leather lace up boot with a double side zip detail, heel pull and heavy treaded Vibram sole. Available from oki-ni.

• Mr. Hare Kerouac: The Kerouac is a man’s boot with a little romanticism and some healthy disrespect for the rules. It’s an adventure boot. It was oh so tempting when I first saw the collection and I was close to buying a pair. Must resist buying a pair now but they are so gooood...Available from oki-ni.

• Bed Stu Leather boot: An antiqued black leather boot with leather lining and sole. Five eyelet laceup. Available from Oak.

• Lanvin Leather lace up ankle boots: The "I wish I were rich" boots. These black leather lace-up ankle boots have wool detailing on both sides. Available at Browns.

• F-Troupe Black Sheepskin Hi Top: If all of the above are just too aspirational, how about this pair from f-troupe? The classic shape gets a winter upgrade with a shearling upper. Available from Oak.

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