One hundred beards

"I have major beard envy. I can't grow a good beard myself so this project allowed me to live vicariously through others," Jonathan Daniel Pryce explains as his popular blogging project, 100 Beards in 100 Days, is turned in to a hard back book and launched at Front Room, St Martin’s Lane, later today.

If you're unfamiliar with the project, Pryce took up a daily pursuit to capture and document the finest facial fuzz amongst the capital’s male population. Beginning on July 1st and culminating with a snapshot of his own cultivation, the talented photographer shot one hundred beards in one hundred days. From young tattooed hipsters to suited city gents, wonderfully bushy to artfully trimmed, the streets of London are awash with beards and Pryce shot some of the finest specimens. As the body of beards shifts from blog to book, we caught up with Pryce to relive the one hundred days of work...

You've been photographing street style for yourself and a range of fashion clients for about five years now but what was the catalyst for the 100 Beards in 100 Days Project? 

There were many reasons when I started the blog on July 1st. I won Photographer of the Year at the SFAs in June and a lot of my client work had become quite similar so I began thinking of concepts to try something new and personal. I'm best known for my street style photography and wanted to continue in this vein, but develop it further to focus on portraiture. I've been noticing beards so much since moving to London and the trend of beards as an accessory has been rising, so I wanted to document that before it becomes over-saturated. 

With the volume and deadlines involved, how difficult was the process of selection? 

That's a great question. In short, very difficult! With each guy I spend anywhere between 5 and 15 minutes, so I can end up with 40 frames meaning editing is tricky. I spent a lot of time deciding and sometimes called in my friend's creative eyes to get a second opinion. With nearly every subject there was more than one photograph I loved, and that's part of the reason for having the book. I wanted to show the outtakes and also the guys who, for whatever reason, didn't make it onto the blog. 

The project involved you cultivating your own beard, who are you beard icons/inspirations? 

I've got such a wealth of inspiration due to all the guys I photographed. When I decided to grow my own, due to the huge amount of digital peer pressure, I spoke with the team at Pall Mall Barbers who are experts in all things hirsute. We spoke about a few icons and how to shape my beard to suit me once it grew in. I love Nick Wooster's style and his facial hair is always superb. It was such an honour when he blogged about the 100 Beards project. My real envy kicks in when I see models like Patrick Petitjean or Tony Ward - strong growth, thick and full! 

Looking back at this body of beards, do you have any particular favourites? 

I've selected twelve images to be shown at 45 St Martins Lane (open between 1st - 6th of November) which are some of my favourites. I loved Roy as I think the photograph captured the moment perfectly. Also Ricki, Kial and Ali all had very impressive growth. 

Were you surprised by the variety of beard shot? Were there any beards that got away? 

I tried hard to represent many people - this blog wasn't about hipster beards or tradition beards, I wanted it to show the diversity that London has to offer. I did a lot of walking around the city and discovered some great neighbourhoods I'd of never have travelled to otherwise. There were certain areas with higher concentrations of beards - Soho and Shoreditch especially - but I think another subject in the photography is the location, so keeping that diverse was important to me. The project was quite pure to the 'street photography' concept so yes I lost quite a few bearded guys in the London crowds. What will you focus your lens on next? The book promotion is going to take me up until the end of 2012, with launches at Jigsaw Menswear and the new Pall Mall Barbershop. After, I'm working on some exciting projects for the London Collections: Men in January - some film and photography documenting the men behind the industry. Watch this space.

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To whet our appetite for the book launch and the exhibition at 45 St Martins Lane, Jonathan Daniel Pryce shares a few of his favourites beards...

Roy, Ricki, Ali and Kial from 100 Beards.
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Captains of Industry

Melbourne's Captains of Industry is the type of back lane tribute to gentlemanly living that I long to lose a few hours in. Now, if it hadn't been for Susie's recent trip down under, I would have absolutely no idea about its existence. Tucked away up a flight of stairs the collaborative space offers almost everything and anything a sartorially inclined man could ever need. An outfitter and cafe, the first floor space brings together three leaders from their respective fields under one roof. Thom Grogan offers a made to measure suit service whilst Steven Blick trims and wet-shaves from vintage barbers' chairs and James Roberts makes bespoke shoes by hand on site. It appears to be the perfect marriage of menswear and hospitality.

Thankfully for us, a camera wielding Susie decided to brave the staircase to become our roving reporter for the day. Her collection of excitedly snapped shots help bring to life her glowing tales of a wonderful concept of coffee, cut cloth and coiffed hair...

Thanks to Susie for all of the images.

Looking over these images now I can't help but question why London does not have anything quite like Captains of Industry. A place that can satisfy every one of my greedy demands. A place of toasted chorizo sandwiches, well cut suits, perfect flat whites, freshly cut hair, gin in tea cups, handmade brogues and so much more. I like the idea of investing an afternoon in such an inviting space. The last twelve months has seen a number of exciting menswear stores open their doors in our capital but this is something quite special indeed. Captains of Industry is a cafe centred style retreat I long to escape to.

Advent - Day Thirteen

Today is not just the thirteenth day of our advent calendar but also Dick Van Dyke day (and the birthdays of our respective partners). So, we will keep posting to a minimum today before embarking on a day of much celebration. Behind door number thirteen on our festive calendar is is the founder and owner of Murdock London, Brendan Murdock.

Established in 2006, Murdock London offers the modern gentleman a relaxing and refined environment to escape the fast pace of city living, leaving looking and feeling better than ever. Each of its four stores combines the traditional elements of a barbershop blended with a contemporary and inviting feel. The product selection at Murdock reflects their interest in artisan manufacture and stylish simplicity, carefully edited, they are brands to discover and desire, not widely available in other retail environments, with many products that are exclusive to Murdock in England. It should came as little surprise then that Murdock has looked close to home for his gift...

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MURDOCK COLOGNES

"The Murdock colognes are perfect gift this Christmas for the gentleman who likes a classic reinvented. Each cologne is distinct with its own suggestive personality – the British bohemian, the curious adventurer, the louche dandy, the wanderlust traveller all sharing common convictions of quality, confidence, style and individuality. I believe these words define the Murdock Man, and who says a modern gentlemen can't indulge in a few simple fragrances? Just like life our colognes are reassuringly complex and deeply engaging..."

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On the... we've lost count... day of Christmas

As snow begins to fall and the big day fast approaches our thoughts frequently turn to gift ideas. This elegantly presented shaving set by Truefitt & Hill could be the ideal gift for the hairy man in your life. The set contains all the requisites for a professional shave, including a perfectly balanced razor, badger hair brush and classic grooming products (available from Harrods).

For over two centuries now, Truefitt & Hill has provided discerning men with the finest grooming products and services. Established in 1805, Truefitt & Hill are in fact the world's oldest barbershop and are also Royal Warrant holders to H.R.H., The Duke of Edinburgh. If he owned a set such as this Steve would actually take great pleasure in the otherwise daily torture that is shaving!

Seeing tashes

As we enter the last few days of Movember I undoubtedly have tashes on my mind. Every time I look in the mirror I am reminded that I am something of a failure when it comes to this age old demonstration of 'manliness'. Despite being facial-follically challenged I am still a passionate fan of the tash. This is just one of the many reasons why I loved discovering Moustache whilst in Hong Kong. I don't think I've ever seen a better shop sign whilst stalking the streets.

Following my post on Tuesday, I duly returned to the store for one last time before returning home and I couldn't resist picking up a few bits (in addition to my suit order...more on this tomorrow!). I just love how the tailoring duo have used the hu zi (moustache) image throughout their branding. It is this sort of attention to detail that really makes a positive difference to the shopping experience and it is rare to see these days. The labels, logos and wrapping paper all provoked a wry smile and with this is in mind I just had to show off my purchases to you in a similar light...even though they might be my basics...

From underwear and pyjamas to toggle coats and lighweight suits, the store offers clothing for any time of the day or year. Given that Tuesday was one of the hottest of our trip I plucked for snazzy underwear and a perfectly thin canvas belt...tashes, tashes everywhere... Speaking of which, how the devil are you getting on with your upper lip plumage for Movember?

A whiff of Fantastic

Susie hobbled off the Eurostar this week battered, bruised...and bearing gifts! Whilst she could actually walk she found herself at the Fantastic Man Perfume launch party at Colette and fortunately for me nabbed a goodie bag which included the latest issue (a beautiful read but the full review will follow later), scented soaps and the soap itself. I twittered a succinct reaction which is hard for me to better even after wearing the scent for a few days:

The scent itself is slightly feminine at first but after the fruity notes subside you are left with something light but manly...just like me.

Jop Van Bennekom and Gert Jonkers with the help Ben Gorham (founder of Byredo Parfums) wanted to capture the essence of the magazine in a bottle and they have succeeded. Readers of the magazine will know how amazing those pages smell but thankfully rather than capture the actual essence of the magazine the scent revisits the most classic of men's perfumes to create a true gentleman's cologne.

Messing around in the mirror

I know we posted images of this chap from garance doré only yesterday but the more we looked at the spread of images, the more we fell in love with this chap's style (EJ went as far as calling him her new BFF on the images alone!) and he certainly deserves additional attention. -we have been starved of interesting men's street style for sometime so lets celebrate our first piece of nourishment in weeks! The post yesterday concentrated on his glorious round tortoise shell spectacles but we just had to talk about his hair, here is a man who is not afraid to play around every morning in front of the mirror and style his hair in a way which suits his outfit that partticular day. EJ is constantly requesting that I change my hairstyle because I've been wearing it in more of less the same way for the last few years. Gio has inspired me to mix it up a little. Armed with an assortment of Bumble&Bumble styling products and a comb I decided to have a play around with an element of my style which has remained motionless as my sartorial choices have evolved. I present to you an animated gif (who needs fancy videos when you can say it all in a gif? teehee) of my hair adventures...hopefully it will inspire you to think a little more about how you will wear your hair tomorrow.

This might not look much but EJ will testify that messing with my hair (however small) takes me out of my comfort zone. I like talking about hair and hair styles, as long as it is other people's.

Are you adventurous when it comes to styling your locks? How often do you change your style?

Picture postcard: commons gold

Found here

Dear Steve

I was making a cursory search of the commons on Flickr and came across this chap. Don't you think he's the most wonderful man you've seen this week? I was initially drawn to this photograph by his mustache (naturally) but then I was gripped by his gaze and his slightly furrowed brow. His hair is fantastic- it almost seems as though he's sporting a quiff... though since this picture was taken c. 1915 that seems unlikely. If that flower in his lapel doesn't persuade you to sport a buttonhole of your own (and not just your poppy) then I don't know what will.

EJ
x

P.S. Blog admin type stuff: follow the blog with bloglovin´, try out the search function on the sidebar and keep up to date with our posts and ponderings on twitter.

Thanks for sharing this chap with us EJ! he is absolutely awesome. Everything about him is perfect and he sets the style benchmark for any middle aged gentlemen, I want to be him when I grow up. His gaze would ordinarily be quite frightening but because he is so well turned out I see it more as a look of contempt. I heart him.

Mo' money, mo' research

Good lord, where has the year gone? November is creeping up on us and with it comes Movember. You may remember that I wrote about Movember last year but was a bit slow to catch on.

Not this year however! This year I am doing things properly and I urge you to join me. Sadly I cannot take part myself (damn you woman's body!) but I have persuaded my long suffering boyfriend to do the growing for me. If any of you do decide to take part, please let me know and we can big you up/chart your progress right here. The rules are simple: at the start of Movember guys register with a clean shaven face. The Movember participants known as Mo Bros then have the remainder of the month to grow and groom their moustache and along the way raise as much money and awareness about male health issues as possible. Funds raised by Mo Bros and Sistas in the U.K. will be donated to The Prostate Cancer Charity.

The serious bit: November is an important month for me. The 5th of November is my Grandpa's birthday. The 19th of November was the date he died of Prostate cancer. The more I can do to help raise awareness of the disease and raise money for research to try to cure it, the better, so something like Movember means quite a lot to me. Any of you that will help out by publicising the cause, donating what you can or growing a tash can be certain of my gratitude.

The style bit: So you're growing a tash? Well, for guidance, we wrote a post on the matter here and for inspiration you may wish to consult Hudson's Guide or Mustaches of the 19th century.

This really is a cause we should all get behind. I must admit that I'm not blessed with the best facial hair in the world, it grows randomly and has a ginger tinge to it but I want to take part and hopefully you will as well. TheSundayBest documented the journey he had with his lip companion and it would be great if more of us could do the same and raise both awareness and money at the same time. To inspire one and all, here is an old image from thesartorialist.

The science bit

I am sure that like me you both laugh and cringe at how the grooming industry creates a fascade of science to entice you into spending money on their producs and not on one of their many, many competitiors. However, dodgy shampoo commercials aside...maybe there really is something to it. After watching the film Perfume (I always meant to read the Patrick Süskind's 1895 novel but just haven't created the time to do so) I became more interested in the effect of different chords on a person. Of course I wanted to go out and capture the essence of virginity and douse myself in it but alas that always seemed like a troublesome and somewhat gruesome prospect. I recently smelt and fell in love with Prada Amber Pour Homme (which was first fragrance for men released by the fashion house) so I have been wearing it ever since.

For the past couple of months I have more and more frequently sniffed the incense Catholicism of the CdG scents and have been somewhat intrigued but ultimately over powered by them, besides I went to a CofE school so I could never quite understand. However, when I heard about molecule 01 which unlike most fragrances which combine 100 different components, has only just one. I was intrigued enough to go to one of the few stockists and try it out...as it was sales season I decided to go to Harvey Nichols (more on that later). The escentric website describes the scent as "It is as though the fragrance has no heart, but an enormous amount of soul" which is bizarrely, extremely accurate. As mentioned the fragrance consists of only one ingredient, known as 'Iso E Super' which on it's own is less of an aroma and more of an effect. There is a subtle velvety wood note to it, which fades and then resurfaces throughout the day but it is the fragrances effect on everyone other than the wearer which is interests me...as the fragrance is proclaimed to have pheronomic like effects. I only bought the fragrance yesterday so I will update you later and let you know how the 'testing' phase goes.

David James, Superman

Doing the daily internet rounds (daily? Who am I kidding here? At least hourly) I was very pleased to see Brandish reporting about the lovely David James promoting Debenham's Everyman promotion. Between now and 15 June (that's fathers' day folks! Don't forget like I inevitably will) Debenhams will donate 10p towards men's cancer charity Everyman for every item sold in men’s clothing, accessories and fragrance, having pledged to raise at least £100,000. Ok, so 10p does sound like much, but every amount counts.


All this was a bit psychically spooky, however, as just the day before I had been pondering David James and, in particular, his hair.



Even more specifically, I was thinking of the hair style above. Described by press at the time as being akin to Superman's, I just think it's great that a sportsman smartened himself up so much with a classic 30s 'do for a match. This photo may be fairly ancient, but top marks Mr James!

Losing it

Since reading this post over on iCiNG I have been mulling over the topic of losing your hair. I was racking my brains all over Christmas for some good bald/balding icons, only to kick myself for my stupidity when I caught a bit of The King and I on TV. Yul Brynner is surely the most obvious choice?
And while he is probably best known for his completely bald look (above) as sported in the King and I, I think he looked quite dashing in his younger days when he still kept a bit on top.

The supreme neatness of the hair he does have is vital to the look. And this just set the ball rolling. There are so many balders (not yet baldies, you see?) out there to admire! The trick to it, as always, is excellent grooming.

This is perfectly illustrated here by Mr Astaire. While he does have his hair reasonably long it is slicked down and back at all times with no attempt to hide the arches of his hairline. His skin is clear and healthy looking and, as usual, he is clean shaven.

I've noticed quite a few indie boys trying to disguise a receding hairline by growing a long sweep of hair to use as a fringe. I hate to break it to you boys, but I'm beginning to feel that this the the modern equivilant of the comb-over... you're fooling no one my dears. I did consider finding a picture to illustrate this point but I thought that would be a little bit too mean. Maybe your new influence, if you don't like the swept back look should be Brandon Flowers?

His hair is short here and ever so slightly pushed forward. I'd be interested to see what he will do once it REALLY starts going though. I was also going to use Jude Law as a muse here but, if I'm honest, he creeps me out nowadays.

Splitting hairs

Oh I have a odd and complex relationship with my hair. It is a strange part of both myself and my attitude to style and grooming. I should take more interest in it and at time i do but something is missing. I don't love it as much as what hangs in my wardrobe or what hangs on the rails of my favourite shops and items undiscovered! my current attitude to hair and how best to style it revolve around the following:

• Invest in a good hair cut, (which doesn't necessarily mean expensive but living in central London it normally does)
• Wash your hair as often as you need to. use Baby Powder if you don't have time to wash it.
  
• Spend money on good hair products and use them moderately. I like Bumble and Bumble.
  
• Take note of your hair and what it wants to do - after straightening it for a while I've realised that it is far better to let the natural gentle wave of my hair do its thing!

There it is, my simple hair advice. I will post (in the next couple of days) about my advice on how best to achieve various looks complete with pictures of course but today is a bad hair day!

On the subject of hair I enjoyed reading The Post Office's account of the rise of the square haircut, as shown on catwalks across the land, in editorials and most recently on the cover of V magazine with Brad Pitt. In front of Mario Testino’s camera Brad Pitt showed his many different faces for V Magazine. I have dabbled with these styles in recent years but unfortunately the curse of my laziness means I always go back to my tried and tested! What do you prefer, the Fight Club Brad Pitt or the more refined and slightly geeky versions? Which version has the best hair, how would you wear yours? Can't decide, well just enjoy both versions!With party season upon us if we need inspiration on how best to wear your hair, look no further than Cary Grant.

The only thing I'd add is to make sure that you get it cut short enough at the back!

Picture Postcard: On the street - mix of styles

This image comes courtesy of the sartorialist during his recent trip to Paris where he has taken some beautiful shots. This one however is a little more controversial than the typical highly groomed and perfect ladies on offer. To be honest by the end of my own visit I was so conditioned at seeing manicured model women wearing this seasons shoes and clutching this seasons bag that by the end of it they just didn't register in my brain, they just blurred into one person.

The below shot is more interesting to me. I've looked at this shot a few times now over the last day or so and can't make up my mind on it. I'm certainly swaying towards the disapproving side of the line but it is not a resounding feeling.

Firstly, I'd like to see the look with the jacket off. I like the idea of combining a well cut, smart jacket with a street wear outfit underneath. However, here it does look like the guy has come out of dance class but only has one coat (the greasy hair only adds to this notion!). I like the coat but I agree with one of the comments on thesartorialist that the sleeves are too long. For this type of look to work I feel that the jacket needs to fit perfectly. The play on proportions of the loose street wear complete with bulky trainers (I like the use of two coloured laces!) matched with a well tailored coat could work. However, this chap doesn't pull it off. It makes him look very short and his hair doesn't help him one iota. It is however an interesting look and worthy of a little discussion. What are your thoughts?

Frankly, I'm not sure it IS a man. Not in a bad way, if that makes sense. The hair bothers me SO much (got to stop the capitalisation), I just want to wash it, brush it and pull it back. I really don't know how people deal with hair hanging in their face like that... been there done that, shudder at the thought.

As for the look in general, I think that I quite like it. It's a bit like the oversized sportswear thing you see done, but in coat form. I can see how people would prefer it to be more fitted, but... I don't know what. Chalk it up to a random liking. The laces are cool, but the trainers are less so... I think this could work better with a smarter trainer perhaps just to play around with the look a little more. Hmm, I'm changing my mind as I type. Maybe it is just a little too 'popping to the shops, can't be bothered to get dressed properly'...

UPDATE: I've just realised something! This guy is clearly just channelling John Cusack in Say Anything. It's all so clear now!

Facial hair conundrum

Something I'm pondering at the moment is what appears to be a minor trend in the male hipster world. Something I am utterly jealous of, yet thankful I don't have. A bold affirmation of manhood. I am speaking of the moustache.

Now, I'm not sure how I actually feel about this. Part of me, probably the same part of me that used to want people to wear skinny trousers, wishes that more men would grow one. Lord knows I've tried to persuade those around me. But in reality, is it such a good idea? Let's look at a few examples.

David Niven in one of my favourite films ever, A Matter of Life and Death

Errol Flynn: a dashing, if slightly dodgy chap

There are plenty of examples of (what I consider) the classic 'tache. With slicked back hair or a neat hair cut and a sharp suit it keeps the look interesting, and a neat tache shows that you take care of yourself.

It's this next type of moustache that I'm most indecisive about.

Freddie Mercury (in a field, apparently)

The glorious Terry Richardson

This is what I call in my head 'the seedy moustache'. I'm torn. Is it good or awful? I suppose I'll just have to take it on a case-by-case basis. These, however, I am sure about: love, love, love

Brandon Flowers of the Killers. It may be controversial, but I love his look at the moment, he can do no wrong.

Picture courtesy of Facehunter. Quite extravagant, but not over the top. I think it works for me because the rest of the look is quite minimal.

There are no conclusions here I'm afraid. I'm as torn as ever but would love to hear other people's opinions about it: do you/have you/would you wear a moustache? If you are thinking about it, you may want to have a look here. If you go for it please send us a picture (we love hearing from you); the email address is on the right hand side of this page.

Oh I was waiting for one of us to bring up facial hair, well done you! I've been waiting for some good examples but I've not really been enamoured by anything. That said I approve of you choices, especially Richardson and the Facehunter shot (this is my favourite but because the moustache shines as its complimented perfectly by the minimalist street wear!). I am not a fan of Brandon Flowers (you are just biased because you fancy him) but the shot you have picked is a good one. Moustaches can look good but there is definitely a residing feeling within me that they are sported mainly as part of dressing up. Most men grow them either in jest or to look like a famous moustached man, ie Flynn, Niven, Selleck, Mercury. My point is, most men cannot wear moustaches seriously; (generally) people can't take moustached men seriously (for Historical examples of this phenomena see Chaplin and Hitler) and even the majority of moustached men cannot take themselves seriously (maybe I'm just bitter because I can't grow a substantial example. Thankfully it is not such an important measure of manhood today as it was just decades ago). I do concede however that this notion though could be turned on it's head but only by some kind of facial hair revolution. If I wished to grow one (and were able to) I think I would personally sport a cross between the 'pencil' and the 'paintbrush'...evolving into the 'English' in my fifties and finally turning to the 'Walrus' in my twilight years. Please see the below illustrations for guidance...

Once my next stage of puberty hits and the desire arrives I might grow a slightly thinner version of the above.

This will be me as I spend all day in my study, reading, writing and taking in the countryside.