Details... Damier Delight

Inspired by a Massaï that he wrapped himself up in as a child, Kim Jones reinvented Louis Vuitton's classic Damier in his dazzling debut menswear collection for the House back in June 2011 - oh, where does the time go and why didn't I buy anything from this collection?! Given that travel was the thread that bound the accomplished collection together, I'm sure Jones would approve of how the luxe cashmere knit has been teamed up with a well loved Ludwig Reiter jacket for an explorative stroll around Venice last weekend.
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Another visit to Anthem

Earlier this month I sneaked off to Calvert Avenue to spend my lunchtime inside one of London's most intriguing and inspiring of independent menswear stores, Anthem. The brainchild of Simon Spiteri and Jeremy Baron, the shared vision for the retail concept is one based firmly on handpicked quality from across the globe, from the covetable and eclectic mix of design talent right through to the well curated furnishings. The pairs passion and personality is visible throughout the inviting space. In addition to asking the avid collector Spiteri to share the story behind two of his most cherished of possessions for our Treasured Items series and armed with my camera, I snapped up the opportunity to explore the SS12 season. 

Now, the store has of course its e-commerce site and as much as I enjoy the ease of shopping online, it is no replacement from Anthem's physical experience. It is precisely that, an experience. Each visit is a joy and one of discovery. Complimenting the bank balance draining buy from Kapital, 45RPM, Dries, Folk, Our Legacy, Remi Relief, Marni and Comme (to name but an eager mouthful) and tying in the feelings of the season are a selection of Spiteri's own books, artefacts and mind boggling curiosities...which include a custom built Totem pole displaying Kapital and various cultural artefacts from South America. Take my outstretch virtual hand and allow me to take you on a visual tour of the current incarnation of the ever evolving Anthem...

From Kapital to Remi Relief and Dries Van Noten, the above is just a small snapshop of the SS12 season.
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With the rise of online shopping the physical experience of a store has to be special. In this emerging virtual world of white backgrounds and minimal mouse clicks to ensure a speedy retail journey to the checkout, it is so important for bricks and mortar to offer something more. Anthem undoubtedly does just that.

A visit to Wolsey

For more than two hundred and fifty years, Wolsey have outfitted all manner of modern gentleman in search of adventure and last week joined Stone Island and Jack Spade by opting to open their London flagship store in Soho's Brewer Street. Despite its illustrious past, from early pioneers of the Industrial Revolution, the invention of 'unshrinkable wool' to a Royal Warrant, as Wolsey flung open its doors, this was my introduction to the British label. What kind of menswear blogger am I!?

Now, having finally made its acquaintance, it is clear that this humble label is something of a (quiet) national institution. It has clothed some of its bravest and most inspirational men including arctic explorer Captain Robert Falcon Scott to Britain's solders in both World Wars. Fast forward to today and the label continues to craft exceptional clothing for men of exploration and adventure - but climbing mountains and conquering far flung lands is not a prerequisite to wearing the label.

A quick look at key moments in Wolsey's past  thanks to its AW12 look book.

Finding its new home in Central London's new menswear retail haven, the space itself takes inspiration from the brand’s original Leicester factory, still the location of its brand operations, References from Wolsey's past, consideration for material sourcing and attention to the smallest of details can be seen in the brick walls, brushed steel beams and wooden fixtures. Salvaged, prismatic pendants light the windows and low hanging 1940s British industrial pendant light fixtures give an industrial edge to the interiors. Contrasting with this are cut and sewn Persian rugs and original draper’s cabinets. This distinguished contrast gives a welcoming, relaxed and contemporary feel that reflects Wolsey’s commitment to celebrating its history and crafting contemporary design. A commitment that is obvious throughout its offering for SS12, as described to me by Wolsey's very own Richard Bengtsson during my tour of the store.

"Wolsey has always been at the forefront of producing quality menswear and the goal is to honour this heritage whilst looking forward. We're very proud of our history but we look forward. Ultimately we have always been a modern lifestyle brand."

Wolsey's Creative Director Richard Bengtsson

Inspired by its unrivalled history, Wolsey’s SS12 collection is a contemporary range influenced by iconic menswear classics. By drawing from the company's extensive archive of original military, labour, sport and expedition clothing, the new Wolsey and Wolsey 1755 collections reinterpret these classics for a new generation. The result is an array of staples which exude the essence of timeless design to fit nicely in any man's wardrobe. Having been introduced to the label, let me take you on a tour of its new home whilst showing off a few highlights from the collection...

A selection of highlights from Wolsey's London flagship.

Having finally made the acquaintance of the label and had the opportunity to have a good nose around its new home, I'm keen to watch Wolsey continue to reinterpret real British classics for a new generation.

Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis SS12

In recent weeks we have noted that in the tumultuous seas of spurious, pointless and head scratchily strange collaborations, a creative coming together that works on more than a mere press or cash cow perspective are most rare. Our eyes often glaze over as the conveyor belt of releases trundles on but when we do encounter a collaboration that makes perfect sense, we leap to attention. Since its debut for SS10, Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis has always delivered. The High Street just got that bit more interesting. Now, you should recall how we fell for the charms of the debut thirty piece capsule collection back in January 2010. It was a celebration of the very best of authentic British design whilst providing an enticingly complete everyday wardrobe, encompassing everything from jackets to shoes. It was, not surprisingly, extremely well received and has only grown in subsequent seasons. Over the last two years, Casely-Hayford and John Lewis have worked hard to build upon this concept of collaboration with the finest manufacturers to create a a highly considered range of future classic designs for contemporary men who appreciate, design, quality and attention to detail. In essence this is a collaboration that brings seemingly specialist products to a wider audience without losing any of the integrity that make their products special. Having established a strong following through exclusive collaborations with some of the UK’s finest heritage manufacturers, Casely-Hayford continues to celebrate craftsmanship and home grown British manufacturing by joining forces with a new collaborator (but long known to us), British Outerwear manufacturer, Cooper and Stollbrand.

Whilst last season’s collection took influence from Eric Newby’s seminal travel book, A Walk in the Hindu Khush, Casely-Hayford’s SS12 offering looks to one of the twentieth century’s greatest explorers, the British adventurer Wilfred Thesiger. Born in Ethiopia, educated at Eton and Oxford, he fought with the SAS and went on to become one of the great travel writers of the last century. Never content with the luxury of the known he was always looking over the next hill, mountain or desert horizon. He was every inch the English gentleman exploring and understanding alien lands. Throughout, the collection embodies Thesiger’s rugged yet easy going spirit with informal tailored jackets, tough washed cottons and relaxed summer knits...

“With a more relaxed attitude this season, jackets are cut with less structure, shoulders are softer, body shapes are slightly looser, and our tailored jackets have been constructed with lightweight materials– creating the ideal weekend wardrobe. The collection has been coordinated with the feeling of an international Englishman in mind and as always, the pieces are simple but never basic.” 

Joe Casely-Hayford on the collection

Orde Ventile Mac in collaboration with respected British outerwear manufacturer, Cooper and Stollbrand.  A technical summer macintosh that comes with heat sealed internal seams for increased water resistance and contrast leather pocket fastening detailing.

This puppytooth blazer from is a single-breasted design that's cut using traditional Savile Row methods.


A fusion of two great British design icons (the classic Barbour jacket and the original naval Duffle coat) the Chilworth coat has been developed as part of the successful collaboration with Barbour.

The double-breasted Amara Pique Blazer is an enticing blend of smart and casual. A laid back peaked lapel jacket with bluffed on patch pockets (applied without visible stitching) and made from fine two fold Italian shirt weight cotton, it can be worn either as part of a suit or a semi-formal blazer.

A hardy, practical jacket made in tough new waxed cotton which takes its colouring from the natural tones of the desert. In contrast to its hardy exterior, the Bedu jacket features a fun and vibrant contrast under collar and is half lined in an African influenced Liberty print - reflecting Casely-Hayford’s seasonal theme.

Collaborating with the famous British emporium for another season, the Samuli Jungle shirt takes its print from the Liberty archive.

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Following initial success, it is great to see that Casely-Hayford and John Lewis have been able to consistently evolve the collaboration to offer some of the finest collections available on the High Street whilst shining the spotlight on the British sartorialism, craftsmanship and manufacture.

Mohsin Ali x Globe-Trotter

As previously noted, for his sophomore collection, emerging talent Mohsin Ali researched industrial designers and architects such as Zaha Hadid, Otto Wagner, Charles Eames, Le Corbusier and there approach to design. From the line drawings and sketches of Hadid which inspired the lines of the shirts and jersey to the way Wagner, Eames and Le Corbusier mixed fabrications and techniques across their products. Taking all of this and more into account, Ali approached this collection with his belief in a very clean aesthetic, the mixing of fabrication and the use of innovation. The season also showcased an exciting collaboration with luxury luggage brand Globe-Trotter, whereby the blossoming design talent created (with the help of Globe-Trotter's master craftsmen) three different cases with a design finish that complimented SS12 perfectly. In the tumultuous seas of spurious, pointless and head scratchily strange collaborations this was a coming together that made complete sense. As the cases arrive in store, we couldn't resist taking another longing look at them and snapped up the opportunity to catch up with Ali.

Now, Globe-Trotter cases have been used over the last one hundred years by an enviable client list. From Captain Robert Falcon Scott travelling with Globe-Trotter on the infamous Antarctic expedition in 1912 to Sir Winston Churchill using a Globe-Trotter Dispatch Case during his position as Chancellor of the Exchequer in 1924, H.R.H. Queen Elizabeth II opting for Globe-Trotter for her honeymoon luggage in 1947 (and continues use her cases to this day) to Sir Edmund Hilary ascended to first base camp with Globe-Trotter during his conquest of Everest in 1953, it is truly special and instantly recognisable luggage. Hand made in Broxbourne, Hertfordshire using original manufacturing methods, each case is uniquely constructed from vulcanised fibreboard whilst handles are produced by the leather team who also form the iconic Globe-Trotter corners over a period of five days. Here, Ali builds on this experience to create a limited edition range of super luxe luggage for a modern gentleman. Each case has been intricately laser etched to produce a subtle patterned effect, and is completed with a unique leather shoulder strap. These key features set the Mohsin Ali suitcases apart from the Globe-Trotter core collection. Mohsin Ali hand picked a subtle range of colours of Elephant Grey, Ivory and Navy, creating timeless classics to covet for years to come.

"From a young age I've always loved structured cases especially the briefcase, for me it is a very underrated accessory. Now, Gary Bott the Creative Director is someone I've known for a while and always respected him within the Industry, we constantly would meet and talk about what we may or may not be able to do together. I'm constantly questioning manufacture and process to what is possible and what extreme something can be pushed to before it becomes impossible, from this the collaboration was born. The starting point was what can and can't be done, this took a while after which it just came together! told the case and it's dimensions couldn't be changed so it came down to the appliance.

I had to be true to my aesthetic but also what I was doing for SS12 with the Men's collection and somehow forming a relationship between the two, there was a pattern that was being laser cut into one of the jackets and after numerous trials we came up with laser engraving it onto the cases, but that wasn't enough I needed another angle. The "FUNCTION' angle, I had a beautiful handmade case with this great engraving......what was it missing? I remember Gary telling me the designer had developed a Handmade leather strap and I knew this would be the finishing touch, especially on the small 13" inch Case as without it it looked feminine..." 

Mohsin Ali on the collaboration

Mohsin Ali's aesthetic is clean and contemporary, and his label lives by three rules; form, fabric and function. This ethos is similar to that of Globe-Trotter, whose suitcases are handmade using Victorian machinery in a process that has remained unchanged in the in exactly the one hundred and fifteen year history. If you like the above, you'll be pleased to hear that this successful collaboration will continue on to AW13. "I've worked on new colours and patterns again relating to Mohsin Ali AW13. Also being quite a purist when it comes to certain things I've done a 12" inch record box this season!"

b Store and Gloverall combine for SS12

In the tumultuous seas of spurious, pointless and head scratchily strange collaborations, b Store have offered a series of worthwhile match ups that this blogger is able to cling on to. Since launching just over a decade ago, it has carved out a niche with its purist approach to fashion, discreet design and unique brand aesthetic that is reflected through their magazine, in store and in more recent seasons. In short, it adds a welcome dash of 'b' to everything it touches. Having recently breathed fresh life in to heritage label Baracuta in a range of Harringtons and trousers, and reimagining the use and possibilities of print with Liberty, b Store have collaborated with the makers of the original duffle coat for SS12. Both brands have worked together to create a capsule collection of reworked outerwear. For me, it is an example of how a collaboration should be. The considered range plays on the differences and strengths of both brands. Whilst Gloverall has the expertise and development knowledge from decades of focusing on its singular vision to create the most functional and desirable coats, b store is a contemporary brand that has a reputation for creating modern, wearable collections with a unique image. It is a happy marriage and one that I'm keen to toast. So, as the collection begins to drop in stores, I sat down with Gloverall's Mark Smith and b's very own Matthew Murphy to talk through the collection and admire the Willem Jaspert shot and Jason Hughes styled look book...

SS: How did this collaboration between the two of you arise, what was the catalyst and how did it evolve in to the collection we see today?

Matthew Murphy: following the previous collaboration projects with both Liberty and Baracuta, we wanted to continue this series of working with established English based brands that specialise in iconic pieces. Outerwear is something that b store has only played with in previous season's, so we felt it was something that could be explored in more detail with Gloverall, as they have a huge heritage and resource of knowledge.

Mark Smith: We've been admirers of b Store for a long time, and we are mutually working with VP so see alot of their press and collections. Through VP the tie up happened, what was great about working with b store is that that they took was was a Gloverall identity and gave it their B Store handwriting.

SS: How would you describe one another and what you both bring to one another?

Mark Smith: B Store have such an individual look and their own handwriting. They have great vision about their product and for us it takes Gloverall into a new identity, it allows Gloverall to be fabricated in a new look and feeling.

Matthew Murphy: Gloverall has the expertise and development knowledge from decades of focusing on a singular vision, to create the most functional and desirable coats, b store is a contemporary brand that has a reputation for creating modern, wearable collections with a unique image, the reason's to work together are defined by the differences and strengths of both brands.

SS: The Gloverall archive must be huge. What was starting point?

Mark Smith: The archive is vast in garments, drawings, look books etc, but Gloverall really has key focus products over the last sixy years. The starting point was to look at what was key that would work together that we both could relate to. b store relly know and understand their customer and what they wanrted to achieve by working with us.

Matthew Murphy: It was amazing to visit the Gloverall factory, they had a wall of toggle variations and an archive that had samples of duffel coats for every brand you could imagine ...... we discussed with the Gloverall team the best way to approach the collab and they were refreshingly open to idea's, they really wanted the garments to reflect b store, rather than Gloverall. We decided to focus on our signature shapes and design details and use the iconic elements from Gloverall, such as the toggle fastening.

SS: How would you describe the collection?

Matthew Murphy: A 90's influenced anti heritage collection

SS: From the Melton wool coats, blazers, brilliant vintage-inspired 90s parkas and car, pea, duffel and cape-style coats, do you have a favourite item?

Matthew Murphy: For me the toggle fastening washed canvas blazer, as this is an example of a true collaboration, our signature cropped shaped blazer and Gloverall fabric and components

Mark Smith: Generally It always really has to be a Duffle for me, it's what we are but over the last 60 years we have so many great pieces and my current favourite is a 1957 Car Coat.

SS: How do you both see the collaboration evolving?

Mark Smith: What's great about b Store is that they can play around more with design than we may do so we get to take the coats to a new level, I see if continuing to evolve by taking our Iconic styles, make and fabrics and adding their great detail and design.

Matthew Murphy: Inherently, Gloverall are a winter coat brand, so when designing for the AW12 season there were many more tools at our disposal.

SS: Finally, what's next for b Store?

Matthew Murphy: we are very fortunate that we have the opportunity to work on so many creative projects, this season we are launching temporary stores in both Liberty London and Tomorrowland in Tokyo. We also launch another collab with Underground shoes for AW12.

Look book credits...

Shot by Willem Jaspert, styled by Jason Hughes, designed by Colville Walker 

and modelled by Sam Coldy.

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