Monday, 14 December 2009

On the... oh no, we missed another couple... day of Christmas

First off we have to apologise for missing out a few days on our advent calendar but if you are anything like Steve this is to be expected with an advent calendar. While EJ never fails to peel pack each door and eat the treat inside Steve is always forgetting about it but takes great delight in consuming a few days worth of chocolate segments in one sitting. Now, as we missed a few days over the weekend, we have some tasty treats for you, all from the ever wonderful Oi Polloi. It just so happens that we were united in Manchester this weekend to celebrate Dick Van Dyke day (and the birthdays of our respective partners) and whenever we are together in Manchester, we always make the pilgrimage to this well stocked store. Since it opened its doors in 2002 with a vision of putting together the ultimate selection of classic, functional outerwear it has done just that by offering innovative, contemporary labels and a serious arsenal of casual footwear. Here are three of our favourite finds....


First up, we discovered this Canadian Sweater Company's hand knit crew neck jumper with a snowflake style design. With heavy ribbed collar, cuff and hem this super heavy weight (we could just about lift it up off the shelf), these need to be seen to be believed. Once purchased there can be little doubt that this will last a very long time whilst keeping you nice and cosy.



Our second pick is a beautiful Beetham jacket from Nigel Cabourn. The jacket is one of the highlight pieces from Cabourn's British Mountain Forces Collection and, as is to be expected with this designer, the detail in this jacket is phenomenal. There are certainly no corners cut here. It is made in England and uses British fabrics produced by the same mills that have been manufacturing materials for the British military over the last sixty five years.


Our third and final pick for today is a reverse stitch chunky cardigan jacket by Folk which comes in an eye catching multicolour square pattern. Having run our mitts (no, really) over this at the weekend we can testify that it is warmer and heavier than most coats. The chaps at Oi Polloi only have one in stock so if you want it, you will have to be quick!

Friday, 11 December 2009

On the eleventh day of Christmas

Today's pick is for the more technologically minded, but also for the lover of fine craftsmanship. This embroidered laptop sleeve by Maharishi has to be one of the most beautiful laptop sleeves we have ever seen. The immaculately-embroidered sleeves adorned with Japanese Oasis flower drawings, have been created exclusively for 20ltd.com and are limited to a mere twenty five editions.
A laptop sleeve such as this deserves a fine piece of technological kit. If you are reading this Santa, both of us here at Style Salvage would like a new laptop. Over two and a half years of blogging have given our already dubious technology one hell of a beating.

Wednesday, 9 December 2009

On the ninth day of Christmas...

Now that our advent calendar has highlighted some real treats we are in need of a strong yet ultimately beautiful bag to carry our festive bounty. Parisian label Côte et Ciel use premium materials, including high-grade micro fibre neoprene to produce thoughtful and practical minimal designs.

The folks at oki-ni introduced us to Côte et Ciel and dropped a selection of their finest backpacks, laptop cases, and iphone/ipod pouches last week. They didn't hang around for long. Thankfully our favourite, the 17inch backpack is available for pre-order and is due to be released early next week... but we'll have to be quick!

Carolyn Massey Loves Tokyo (Part Two)

Last month Carolyn Massey was invited to Japan to showcase her designs at the British Embassy in Tokyo. As we long to see Tokyo with our own eyes we asked the designer if we could live vicariously through her. Thankfully she agreed. We served up the first part of Massey loves Tokyo last week and here we dish up the concluding part. Here we follow Carolyn's busy few days in Tokyo as she experiences all the delights the city has to offer whilst cramming in interviews, attending press days and of course showcasing her SS10 collection at the Embassy.

Press day at Peach PR...

I loved these mannequins, there were spookily lifelike. Carolyn Massey SS10!

Fantastic day at Peach PR - non stop interviews and meetings for both Hannah and I. Most notably with Switch magazine, The Senken, Rolling Stone, WWD, Fashion TV (My name is Carolyn Massey and I love fashion TV!) Harpers Japan and deeep breath...Vogue...

Dinner with the lovely Chinatsu, Yumi, Noriko and the girls from Peach, where we had a good luck fish! You eat this fish at special occasions to bring good luck!

Good luck fish with Peach PR!

Day three and it looks lovely outside but...so many interviews to do! However, before we got started Yumi introduced us to the delicacy of deep fried pork sandwiches!! On white bread. Oh My God. So beautifully presented though...

Harijuku and surrounding areas, to do shops... i saw these windows...


KIDDYLAND. Now this is Very important. Look at these dolls! LOVE. Scary...

I made a trip to the wonderful Opening Ceremony. Where I'm pleased to add, I will be stocked for SS10!

Downstairs at Parco is the most amazing bookshop. This magazine is purely about cleaning and maintaining your clothes and shoes/accessories. Back in Harajuku, I saw a sign for a cat cafe- you can go and have tea and hang out with cats (EJ would love this)..!

Evening time and there was an event to open a Comme Des Garcons pop up shop. There were old copies of SIX. I LOVED SIX.

Now on to Fleet Ilya's amazing work. Yes please. I'll have some for Christmas please. Thankyou.

Everything has eyes on or feet...

Last morning...MASSEY LOVES TOKYO x


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Massey's Tokyo diary has only intensified our desire to visit the city in the New Year and we are so pleased to see her make her mark on the city! 2010 is going to be her year. As a special treat the designer has invited us to share her sample sale information with you all. If you are in London this weekend you really have to swing by the Mare Street Studios to nab some designer bargains.

Tuesday, 8 December 2009

On the eighth day of Christmas

We can't quite work out whether today's pick for Christmas is ridiculous or sublime but it is certainly very special. As mentioned before boots can be something of a sartorial testosterone shot to any outfit but we all know they can be right buggers to get on and remove. Therefore, this Hinged Rosewood Brass Bootjack available from Liberty could certainly come in handy during the New Year chill. It's also pretty damn beautiful.

It comes from the famous London gunmaker Purdey, a company whose name is synonymous with the very finest sporting shotguns, rifles and now bootjacks. All we need now is someone to show us how it works...

Monday, 7 December 2009

On the... oh wait, we missed a couple... days of Christmas

We might have missed a couple of days on our countdown to Christmas but the treat behind door number seven more than makes up for it. As we've said this year we wanted to highlight the sublime, the ridiculous and the truly special and exclusive. Today's pick definitely falls in the latter two categories. Aesop's Shirt Studs by Wendy Brandes. The foxes are petrified wood, rock crystal and onyx and the grapes are tourmaline. Everything is set in 18K gold and Wendy B assures us that both foxes have tested negative for rabies. Only one set has been made for that special one of a kind type of man.



To find out more about these very special shirt studs we caught up with the lovely designer herself. "The Aesop's shirt studs came about when I was meeting with a gem carver from Germany -- the same one who used dental tools to engrave the stones for my Queen Min rings (here, here and here). He also did my rock crystal and onyx owl and right now I have him working on a custom-ordered cufflinks depicting a client's two dogs. Every time the gem carver comes to New York, I go see what he has in stock. One time, he had carvings for numerous sets of shirt studs. One set was four little foxes (petrified wood, oynx and rock crystal). One of the other sets was four tiny tourmaline grape bunches. I immediately saw the Aesop's fable about the fox and the sour grapes in those two sets. I don't know how I convinced him to break the sets up so that I could buy two of each style to do a single set of Aesop's shirt studs. The remaining pieces were too small to be cufflinks, and who else is going to do a set of shirt studs with a moral to it? Maybe he's sold them as earrings. Anyway, I persuaded him to sell me two foxes and two grapes and then I had them set in 18K gold. This is the only set of these I'll ever do. The stylish guy who gets these will have a one-of-a-kind look... and all the other guys will have sour grapes about it!"

Made to measure (part three)

Spoken for. I love this handwritten label. Tailored for Mr Salter. That's me!

I know a few of you have enjoyed this series of posts and have been quite eager to see the finished suit. Well...so was I! I have been desperate to post this made-to-measure finale sooner but the recent terrible weather just wasn't playing fair and severely reduced the photographing opportunities. At the weekend, the rain clouds vanished long enough for me to slip in to my tailored, crosshatch voile second skin and I can finally share them with you.

A moustache covered package arrived last Monday and it has to be the best piece of post I've received all year. Christmas has certain come over. The wait is over for both of us. When I left the fitting on the Monday before I returned home to London I did not imagine having the finished suit in my hands the following week. Now that it was I carefully ripped open the package (trying not to rip any of the moustaches) and peeked inside...

Once inside I inspected the craft of the two piece. I have the utmost respect for a true tailor. It is something of a dying art, kept alive by the passionate few. We can only admire and support people like the chaps at j.a. daye. This duo certainly help keep the tailoring ticker in good health. j.a. daye is my idea of what a good twenty first century tailor should be, a bespoke experience for a generation raised on the ease of ready-to-wear shopping, with classic styles made with a distinguishable modern point of view in unexpected fabrics. From the moment I stepped in to the store and met the owners I knew that this was the place for me.

Throughout this whole process I trusted and had full confidence in Ellis and his tailors. He seemed to know exactly what I wanted. After succinctly describing how I wanted the suit to be and how I would wear it, he was soon in tune with my way aesthetic. I take great pleasure in declaring that the finished suit is perfect for me. Whilst there is nothing that I would change, there is plenty for me to wax lyrical about. First off the fabric, the cross hatch voile. It appears both traditionally Japanese and very modern at the same time.

A close up of the cloth.

As mentioned in the previous post on this series, the baste (the blueprint for the finished suit) can be radically altered if necessary. Thankfully, no drastic alterations were required during my first and only fitting, only a few tweaks which have now been made...

After I confessed that I was in the habit of rolling up my suit jacket sleeves during the Summer months, rather than roll his eyes and tell me off he suggested cutting them a little shorter to reveal more cuff. Furthermore, the addition of the polka dot sleeve lining would make for a more interesting reveal when I decided to wear the suit more casually. The end result is even better than I imagined.

After investing so heavily in my shoe collection in recent months it is only right that I wear trousers which show them off. So, I opted to cut them a touch shorter to reveal a little more sock and shoe stock than I normally would. The trousers are my vision of the ideal Sunday Best. On their first outing I decided to pair them with my Lodger's breathtaking Striped Oxford. Inspired by the Duke of Windsor the design is a interesting blend of fine Scabal striped linen and burnished French calf. Perfect for the warmer months making a happy marriage with my cross hatch voile suit.

Showing off the shoes...

Now that I have the extremely well cut suit on my back I am reminded of something Ellis said as we wrapped up the fitting and made our farewells. He warned me that it is quite easy to become addicted to the world of bespoke and made to measure. Even after trying on the suit for the very first time I can see why some people find it difficult to go back to ready to wear tailoring.

"Hi...I'm Steve and I like well tailored suits..."

After experiencing the level of service and viewing such craftsmanship first hand at j.a. daye, I am most keen to save up those pennies so I can get another fix. Ladies and gentleman, you are looking at a potential tailoring junkie...

A little wind swept...suit worn with Striped Oxfords from Lodger, white club collar shirt from Bespoken and polka dot handkerchief from Muji.

EDIT - I have amended the full outfit shot because the windy conditions on my balcony were playing havoc with the fall of my trousers.

Sunday, 6 December 2009

Inside the modern gentry


During a moment of madness I decided to venture in to Central London to do a spot of Christmas shopping. I have to confess that rather than buying gifts for loved ones and friends, I had myself in mind but I have been a good boy all year so I deserve the odd treat, right? The scenes on Oxford and Regent Street were as I feared. Busy and chaotic. I escaped the manic scenes and found myself on the sanctuary that is Savile Row. After perusing the well stocked racks at bstore I navigated myself past the mind boggling queue outside of Abercrombie and Fitch and was drawn to the Alma Showroom. I needed to restore my faith in consumerism. I needed to explore the Modern Gentry. So armed with my camera I ventured inside...

E. Tautz bow ties and handkerchiefs.

I introduced the pop up store on Thursday but I've not had a chance to marvel at the space until this weekend. I missed out on the launch party last week after being struck down with wisdom tooth pain (one day in the New Year, I'll be getting them removed...gulp) and I had no intention of missing out on examing the luxury goods in person. Jewellery designer Hannah Martin, sporting and military tailors E. Tautz and shoe maker Lodger have come together in the wonderful setting of the Alma Showroom on Vigo Street. This pop up store offers Christmas shopping opportunities that I'd only ever dreamed about before now.

A trunk of E. Tautz goodies.

After walking off the busy street and on to the leather flooring (yes, leather flooring!) of the Alma Showroom I felt at home. I'd certainly love to have these designs at my fingertips each morning and who wouldn't want an Electric Angel light installation by Yorgo Lykouria in their hallway!? I only expected to stay long enough to take a few interior shots but in the end I spent over an hour in this snug, welcoming store.

Alpaca mittens.

As mentioned last week, representatives from each brand were on hand to explain the detailed processes involved in creating each of these unique products. I certainly borrowed their ears and learnt so much, including information about the sheep used for E. Tautz's alpaca wool and Hannah Martin's design inspiration.

The Shetland knits are of course handknitted and the felt badges are sewn on by hand.

Ever since I first learned about the resurrection of E. Tautz I have been a strong supporter of Patrick Grant's vision for the historic sporting and military tailors. I need only the smallest excuse to marvel over the quality of the designs and the luxury of the cloths and wools used. E. Tautz is a label which champions the notion of dressing properly and of men taking pride in what they wear.

E. Tautz knitwear by the fire.

After speaking to Patrick back in March I was taken by his belief that provenance is key. On the relaunch of the label for AW09 he had built up a strong network of local supplies. Aside from the sweaters which were knitted in Shetland, everything else could be picked up by bicycle. The British facet of the brand is certainly not a gimmick because Patrick and his team are striving for the best. It is refreshing to hear that brands do not need to scour the earth for the best, sometimes it can be found or even nurtured on ones doorstep.

Hannah Martin sparkles

Out of the three Hannah Martin is the brand I am least familiar with. Of course I have heard so much about this hugely successful CSM graduate but this store visit provided my first opportunity to inspect her designs in person. I was blown away. Her luxurious and decadent collections are described as ‘jewellery for men, that girlfriends will steal’ and if I had a piece in my possession I'd certainly have to sleep with one eye open from fear of Susie removing it from my tight grasp.

Hannah Martin's jewels including Vincent’s Empty Sovereign Ring

In an interview with Elliott earlier this year the fine jewellery designer mentioned her belief that "the craft of Hatton Garden and the traditions it still has, sit perfectly alongside those of say, Savile Row, and the art of tailoring." This space confirms her belief and in the process has redefined my understanding of luxury men's jewellery.

My favourite piece. A bracelet by Hannah Martin

Like E. Tautz, Lodger is a brand that we have vocally supported for some time. Nathan Brown and his team at Lodger have an irrational passion for beautiful shoes and this has been infectious in recent months. In fact, I have seen my shoe collection grow and my bank balance fall all because of this footwear brand. The mix of continuous design, in combination with cutting edge technology and traditional craftsmanship makes it a truly unique shoe company.

Lodger...reminded that I'll soon have a pair of Kudu boots on my feet.

The display of shoes provided further flirtatious galnces and I only just managed to control the temptations because I was reminded of the impending delivery of my Kudu boots. My feet only have a couple of weeks to wait until they find themselves protected from the winter elements by that reformed strong hide.

More temptation from Lodger

Upon first reading about this one off collaboration I was somewhat surprised by the trio of names. However, after seeing their designs side by side it is clear that these are brands united. United by a dedication to luxury in men's attire. Each have core values of exclusivity, attention to detail, and timelessness. Each one is a brand which deserves to be celebrated. To further nail home this point I point you in the direction of Showstudio. Here you will find an exclusive video project which best demonstrates their individual aesthetics and collective role in catering for a Modern Gentry. I will finish off with some good news. In my previous post, I expressed my wish that the store would be around for longer (it was due to close on the 5th December)...well it seems my prayers have been answered. It will be open for an additional week (so until the 12th December).

A selection of Lodger shoes sit by the side of historic E. Tautz in front of a busy street scene.

Friday, 4 December 2009

On the fourth day of Christmas...

Behind the next imaginary door of our advent calendar we have the Whangee umbrella by Swaine Adeney Brigg. While we can't help but giggle at the umbrella's name, we're told that Brigg umbrellas have a Royal Warrant from Prince Charles so they're definitely doing something right. In fact, Brigg umbrellas have served Queen and Country impeccably for two hundred and fifty years. Furthermore, this London based brand also made Indiana Jones' hat, which impresses us no end.


Their website tells us: "Whangee comes from the root of a type of Bamboo, which gains its unique appearance from the constant soil erosion on a sharp gradient; exposing it to the elements. When harvested, it is sent to us where it is bleached, boiled and straightened. It is then bent into the handle attached to the unique Brigg shaft and frame".

It's classic but with just the right amount of quirk- and you can customise it by having your initials engraved. Lovely. With the weather forecast predicting heavy rain for much of the weekend we'd quite this as an early Christmas present. If we owned such an umbrella we certainly would not leave it on public transport, in fact we doubt it would leave our tight grasp.

Thursday, 3 December 2009

Catering for the Modern Gentry

What started out as started as a conversation between Patrick Grant and Hannah Martin about bringing together different facets of handmade British gentleman’s kit has resulted in a fabulous pop up store. Whilst waving the flag for Great British luxury, jewellery designer Hannah Martin, ready to wear tailor E. Tautz and shoe maker Lodger have come together for a one-off collaboration called The Modern Gentry. The idea is to gather, exclusively under one roof, three brands which encapsulate the true definition of luxury. The result is my idea of retail heaven. This pop up store offers a Christmas shopping experience far removed from the manic scenes on nearby Oxford Street.

Inside the Modern Gentry Lodger shoes sit under E. Tautz tailoring with Hannah Martin's jewellery complimented by a beautiful light sculpture courtesy of Yorgo Lykouria.

The London based trio have set up camp at the Alma Showroom (just a cufflink's throw away from Savile Row) for talks and appointments until the 5th December. Representatives from each brand will be on hand to explain the detailed processes involved in creating each of these unique products. Under the cloak of Dazed Digital I caught up with Hannah Martin, Patrick Grant of E. Tautz and Lodger's very own Nathan Brown to find out more about the project. The Modern Gentry explores the definition of the modern luxury and I asked each of them what British Luxury meant to them. For Patrick, luxury is about 'scarcity... the things that many men want but very few can have." For Nathan Brown it means "beautiful design, thoughtful craftsmanship, impeccable service." Similarly for Hannah Martin it is "about integrity, timelessness and craftsmanship." The interesting thing here is that in all of the responses not one of these ideas touch on the concept of 'modern' because the values of true luxury are timeless. It should be about creating something that will last, both in terms of quality and style. When we discussed the perceived decline of luxury back in March it was clear that many luxury brands had lost sight of these virtues. It should provide pieces which can be handed down to the next generation. We are surrounded by fast fashion and impossibly cheap products. For these three brands, British luxury is the antithesis of this. In short, the Modern Gentry is a wonderful one-off project borne from a shared commitment to the creation of gentleman's requisites... I just wish that it was around for longer.

On the third day of Christmas...

Last month we repeated our shared belief that the real beauty of menswear lies in the details as we celebrated the humble hankie. There are amazing styling perks afforded by a handkerchief which most men simply do not realise; any average or worn out jacket can be instantly livened up with an inexpensive, casually folded pocket handkerchief. So behind the third imaginary door of our advent colour are a selection of hankies from Thornton and Peel available at Liberty.

We really can't decided which hankie we prefer from the selection available from Liberty, the rabbit or the ship... or maybe the pigeon. Our head scratching was multiplied when we subsequently disovered the Thornton and Peel website. We want it all.

Carolyn Massey Loves Tokyo (Part One)


Japan and, in particular, Tokyo has been on our ever expanding list of 'places we have to visit' for some time now. Unfortunately, the opportunity to do so has never quite presented itself... withl lack of funds being the most prevalent factor. So, when we had an email from Carolyn Massey informing us that she had been invited to Japan to showcase her designs at the British Embassy we asked if we could live vicariously through her. Of course the ever lovely designer agreed to keep a picture diary for us. Over the course of the next couple of days we will relive Carolyn's Tokyo experiences. By the looks of it she had a lot of fun with jewellery designer Hannah Martin and Lodger's Nathan Brown. We follow Carolyn's busy few days in Tokyo as she experiences all the delights the city has to offer whilst cramming in interviews, attending press days and of course showcasing her SS10 collection at the Embassy. Here is the first installment of Massey Loves Tokyo!

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Settling in and early exploration of the city...

"Day one and fresh off the eleven hour flight, Hannah and I met up with her friend Tomoko to head to the Onsen. Bathing is so much more part of the culture in Japan, and the Onsens are amazing. We went to Spa La Qua, which I'd really recommend. It happened to be attached to a shopping centre with a rollercoaster. Death screams whist in the hot tub. No photos here - for obvious reasons...Starving, we had a long debate about plastic food. Blonde girl here thought each restaurant had their own plates plasticised... but oh no, apparently there's a shops you can go to buy these... er..."

"It is interesting how cities are different colours, you cant really see it in the above shot. Tokyo is really blue and grey. It seems a completely different colour to London to me. Later we are dazzled by the amazing Christmas lights over Tokyo Dome..."

Festive spectacle.

"Coffee as jet lag sets in in the swanky hotel garden. Amazingly we stumble upon a wedding in the grounds, with people wearing traditional kimono..."

The wedding in the hotel grounds. What a scene!

"We then stumbled a store which could quite possibly be Michael Jackson's favourite shop..."

Sha'mon!

A long day at the Embassy...

"It was a long one and hard work, there seems to be so much going on this week... Here is the lovely Miss Hannah Martin at her stand and her amazing jewels. Please note I'd like the cuff thanks... oh, and that ring."

Hannah Martin and her jewels.

"Dinner and on to Gonpachi, more famous for being used as a location for Kill Bill. Shoes off! And who's a size 14? Nathan from Lodger. I bet Nathan he couldn't eat a lump of Wasabi (the sake had set in by this point). This is Nathan after necking the wasabi. No problem, clearly."

"Back home, here I am watching Hello Kitty TV. The news is Hello Kitty speaks and she has a boyfriend! What a lush!"

Hello Kitty Aerobics... yes, I did have a go!

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Tomorrow's diary will reveal the designers new found love for deep fried pork sandwiches along with some exciting news for SS10!

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