Introducing... Jacket Required

Over the lifetime of the blog I've covered a number of menswear tradeshows and have clocked up more airmiles than posts in the process. I've perused Paris' double offering of (capsule) and Rendezvous, wandered in wonder at Florence's Pitti Uomo and burrowed deep in to Berlin's Bread&Butter to name but a few. As cities across the continent have grown and evolved a number of well attended tradeshows, London has sadly lurked in the shadows and been left lacking. Thankfully, three well respected names synonymous with London menswear have united to fill the void. Born from a collaborative idea between Mark Batista, Andrew Parfitt and Craig Ford, Jacket Required is a welcome response to the increasing demand amongst international and domestic buyers for a dedicated under-one-roof destination during the real buying season.

Over the weekend of the seventh and eighth of August, Jacket Required will take over the Rochelle School and will feature over thirty five brands. The list is a drool inducing mix of established and emerging labels including familiar favourites such as Pointer, Penfield, Garbstore and Chapman Bags, US brands including anything, Gourmet and Raleigh Denim who will also be showing alongside Japanese brands such as Bedwin and The Heartbreakers who have been persuaded to show in Europe for the very first time. With the momentous weekend approaches, we caught up with trio of minds behind the show to discuss it in more detail...

Jacket Required's Mark Batista, Craig Ford and Andrew Parfitt.

SS: What were your inspirations, your dreams, and the driving catalyst behind Jacket Required?

Jacket Required: Going to all the fantastic shows around the world and realising a huge need for something of the same standard in London. We all had a common belief that London was lacking and greatly deserved a credible and relevant men's tradeshow to reflect the strength of what is happening in the UK market right now. London fashion is fantastic at the moment and the UK has some amazing stores, some don't travel abroad so now they can get the same experience at Jacket Required.

SS: How did the three of you come together for this project?

Jacket Required: We all knew each other personally and what each of us were doing in the UK market. After a discussion over a couple of pints one night, we found that we were on the same page within our views and set about launching Jacket Required.

SS: Can you tell us a bit about the dynamic that exists between you?

Jacket Required: Between the three of us, we are all able to bring our individual strengths and experience to the show.

SS: What does Jacket Required mean to each of you?

Jacket Required: A coming together of like minded sought after brands, retailers and individuals to offer an appropriate setting for business to be conducted.

SS: For us, Jacket Required is a much needed and fitting drive to renew the credibility of trade shows in our corner of the world. In your opinion, why has London been left in the shadows of the menswear buying season in recent years?

Jacket Required: Following the demise of TBC, buyers have just got used to going abroad to the shows as nothing else replaced it. The likes of Berlin, Paris and Florence became even stronger in their offering of men's brands and with the quality of store buyers that attended these European shows constantly improving, London was left behind and became irrelevant, both in the minds of international and domestic brands and retailers. With our relationships in the industry, every brand we approached could see where we were coming from in striving to put London back on the circuit.

SS: How have you approached Jacket Required to differentiate it from tradeshows across the continent and beyond?

Jacket Required: Between the three of us, we have been to every men's show that has been showing SS2012 collections and whilst there is an amazing selection of brands at all of these shows, there seems to be no surprises. We have strived to offer new labels in to the UK/European market that have either never shown in Europe before, or in some cases, have never shown anywhere in the world before. We have a long list of world exclusives at jacket Required that will not have been seen at any trade show until now. At Jacket Required we will always work in this way p keep sourcing emerging collections but also strike a balance with proven winners.

SS: How has the reaction been from brands, buyers and press alike been?

Jacket Required: Unbelievable! Everyone I have spoken to is really excited about the whole project. The goodwill and positivity has been really overwhelming.

SS: The list of participating brands is a drool inducing mix of established and emerging labels. Is there anything that you are particularly excited to show?

Jacket Required: We collectively believe in the formula to a successful and interesting (for buyers) show is to have a combination of cutting edge and exclusive yet proven, credible money makers available. We are one hundred per cent excited and proud to have every brand in the show and do not feel we have compromised in any way. It is a great line up and we thank everyone for their support.

SS: What attracted you to the Rochelle School?

Jacket Required: We initially had a three thousand square feet gallery on Redchurch Street which fell through but this proved to be a blessing in disguise as it led us to find Rochelle School (a redeveloped Victorian Junior School) just around the corner. The whole area is a huge inspiration and will continue to be over the next few years, especially in menswear. We believe the location and its surroundings will be an added bonus for the buyers and press that attend.

SS: Finally, how do you see the tradeshow developing over the next couple of seasons and beyond?

Jacket Required: We are looking to double the amount of exhibitors for the AW2012 exhibition and beyond that, we will just take it one show at a time. In saying that, we already have lots of interest from brands who want to sign up for the second show so we will certainly grow, the main thing is ensuring that the right balance is struck.

----------

During the build up to Jacket Required we will speak to a number of our favourite brands and will preview their SS12 collections.

Private White V.C Pop Up

Private White V.C returns to London

One of the most intriguing launches of the past twelve months was Private White V.C which we first introduced to you all back in October and have kept an interested eye on ever since. Now, for a period of eight weeks, the label returns to London to present its new SS11 range with an exclusive pop-up boutique at 47 Lamb's Conduit Street. This weekend, I finally got the chance to take a closer look at the sophomore collection whilst taking a stroll down my favourite street.

As you should all know by now, Private White V.C comes from the very heart of Cooper and Stollbrand, the largest independent clothing manufacturer in the UK. It serves as a reminder that they have and hopefully will always continue to make fantastic, market leading garments using the finest British materials and craftsmen. Once again the collection consists of classic, timeless and traditional pieces that Jack and his contemporaries could and would wear day in and day our, in work, at home and at play. However, designed by the former head of Dunhill menswear Nick Ashley, the latest range has been developed to meet the needs of the contemporary man who is after both style and added functionality. Highlights include the new lightweight double breasted belted trench which is a natural run on from the hugely popular AW10 Great Coat and the navy SB4 jacket which is a sharper take on the classic mac. The Flight Jacket, a collaboration with Eastman Leathers is also worthy of note. It has all the traditional features of the original A-1 Flight Jacket worn by aviation heroes dating back to the late 1920's. However, the item that I have my eye on is the Combat Blazer in forest green which comes in a range of wax finishes. Of course, I could wax lyrical about the latest collection and store but I'd only bore you, the best way to get a feel of the place is to explore it...

A look around the transformed pop up store space on 47 Lamb's Conduit Street.  

Here's hoping that Private White V.C will continue to offer great value to its customers who desire the finest and most durable clothing which is hand crafted from one of the UK’s eldest and most experienced factories.

Hannah Martin's The Man Who Knows Everything

Hannah Martin's The Man Who Knows Everything.

With a prestigious Central St Martins design education and a handful of awards behind her, it should come as no surprise that Hannah Martin is shaking up the world of luxury jewellery as we know it. Her luxurious and decadent collections are described as ‘jewellery for men, that girlfriends will steal’ and if I had a piece in my possession I would certainly sleep with one eye open from fear of Susie pilfering it. Each time I see her well crafted designs I am utterly blown away. Well this evening, he London based jewellery designer managed to trump everything that has preceded it. For her fifth collection, entitled The Man Who Knows Everything, Hannah has launched with an awe inspiring installation at Dover Street Market, an exclusive fashion film and a unique augmented reality experience that allows fans to wear one of Martin's creations in virtual reality. A triangulated launch that will blow more minds than just mine.

The character that this collection is based upon is the Comte de St Germain. Ordinarily the designer makes up her characters but this alchemist has popped up at various points in history. In fact, the infamous Comte de St Germain appears throughout history across the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. In each account he remained the same age, always impeccably, yet simply, dressed to fit with his transient surroundings. His only remarkable refinery was the bountiful precious stones that adorned his hands, set into buttons, which covered the buckles of his shoes, and filled his travelling cases and trunks.

"He is supposed to be an alchemist, someone who can obviously live forever because he has been noted throughout time and always described in the same way. When we began researching him on the Internet there are some people who think he is still around somewhere. With this in mind I wanted the collection to be both ancient and super modern."

Hannah Martin on the Comte de St Germain

Now, the challenge the designer always faces is telling the story of the collection in a way that people can experience and understand. The narrative of this collection might be less specific than in previous ones, but it is certainly more mystical and the designs themselves deserve a grand scale. So, the Hannah Martin team devised a triangulated launch that allows as many people as possible to try, play, ponder and marvel.

The Euphoria of Lights encased in Waldemayer's obelesque

Firstly, the Dover Street Market Installation that I was fortunate enough to explore this evening. for myself. For the next two weeks, this installation, designed in tribute to the man who can seemingly travel time, is the main focus in Dover Street Market’s infamous ground floor window. Moritz Waldemayer, the great unsung hero of the design world has offered his pioneering eye for light and monumental structure and created an imposing yet elegant obelesque thanks to the craftsmen of Corian – all focused on a single ring taken from this first series within the fifth narrative, the Euphoria of Lights - the Comte's Pyramid Ring. A cage of lasers (yes lasers!) surround the special piece and when interrupted by wanting hands, the lasers let off different sounds, allowing visitors to create their own soundscape as they reach for the ring. This multifaceted presentation takes you from reality to the fantastical and back again in a disorientating manner. It is a real feast for all of the senses. If you are in London over the course of the next two weeks you have to experience the installation for yourselves.

However, thankfully this is not a London centric launch. Those of you who live outside of the capital and beyond can all still experience the collection's unveiling thanks to genius minds of Holition. Leaders in creative ‘augmented reality’ for luxury brands, this Curtain Road based company have partnered on this unique event and have brought the future closer by offering an international audience the ultimate shopping experience where they can virtually “try on” one of Hannah’s definitive pieces and experience a little of the Dover Street Market magic...

Download A4 PDF to cut out your own ring.

Wear the Comte's Pyramid ring in a virtual reality.

As much as the launch installation was jaw droppingly amazing it was busy and dark and altogether not very conducive to this blogger's snaps. Thankfully, the talented folks at Showstudio have created an installation video...

The Hannah Martin installation at Dover Street Market, 17 March 2011 shot by Zoe Hitchen for Showstudio.

Now, Hannah Martin is used to challenging the craftsmen of Hatton Gardens with her architectural designs but now she is turning her attentions to exploring the possibilities of online. Anyone can now download an application and cut out their own ring for the opportunity to engage with Hannah’s most pioneering work to date, and try on this definitive piece of jewellery from the comfort of their own home in the process. The difficulty always faced lies in demonstrating the tactical nature of jewellery and in telling the story of her narrative rich designs, with the help of the geniuses of Holition, Martin has done just that.

Showroom Next Door For AW11

For the last three seasons my London Fashion Week has begun with an elongated visit to the ever fruitful, Touba Distrubution curated, Showroom Next Door. Why should AW11 be any different? So, before I was seduced by the charms of b Store's reimagined, My Own Private Idaho inspired functional menswear whilst nodding along to the sounds of Blood Music (more on that later), I explored the latest Showroom. Spread over two floors on Grosvenor Street, the space has once again became my dream walk-in wardrobe. 

The Showroom space exemplifies everything that I find exciting about menswear design in London; namely it's diversity and constant sense of sartorial evolution and revolution. This season is is no different. In fact, I'm pleased to say that it has managed to improve and grow further. Fode, Yuko and Trevor strive to showcase a diverse collection of international designers but above all seek to provide a platform for both established and exciting new British talents. The AW11 lineup reflect their hard work and passion. Casely-Hayford, Mr Hare, Mohsin Ali, Armando Cabral, H by Harris, Chauncey, Hannah Martin and Bunney read like a who's who of men's fashion. These are undoubtedly exciting times for menswear and I'm so pleased that there are platforms like the Showroom Next Door that help to showcase the obvious and abundant talent that call this capital of ours its home. Over the course of the coming week, whenever I have a spare moment, I will locate myself in these inspiring surroundings and speak with each of the designers in turn for more in depth posting. However, whilst the initial excitement bounces around inside of my enthused brain, I have to share my initial thoughts on the highlights of the season...

----------

Chauncey

Chauncey is a Brussels-based menswear label and combines the talents of designer Nathalie Bouhana and her photographer partner David Sdika. It is a relatively recent discovery for this blogger but it is a label that I've been hearing an awful lot of good things about so it is great to finally be able to marvel at it in person. Having previously designed knitwear for Hermès, Salvatore Ferragamo and Anne Valérie Hash, Nathalie certainly has an eye for luxury knits. Creative, minimalist but exclusive, Chauncey prides itself on European craftsmanship. Aside from the rich colour palette there is no eccentricity, just quality and modern design. Extreme precision and the highest quality yarns and manufacturers. An "elegant gentleman traveler" look with a slice of Belgian surrealism. These are knits that your skin longs to touch.

Unsurprisingly, I'm particularly fond of the polka dot number in grey.

----------

H by Harris

The H by Harris label heralds the new school in desirable contemporary accessories. Harris designs aptly uses the term 'luxury fatigues' to define his unique style. Regular readers will recall that the debut H by Harris collection comprised itself of two lines, the Q hand quilted nappa leather and the SH wax hide leather collection. Both left me wanting to sell an organ or turn to a life of crime just to have one hanging off his arm. Since then, Harris has slowly but surely added new styles to covet.

----------

Hannah Martin

With a prestigious Central St Martins design education and a handful of awards behind her, it should come as no surprise that Hannah Martin is shaking up the world of luxury jewellery as we know it. Her luxurious and decadent collections are described as ‘jewellery for men, that girlfriends will steal’ and if I had a piece in my possession I would certainly sleep with one eye open from fear of Susie pilfering it. The look is elegant yet decidedly rock n’ roll. Each time I see her well crafted designs I am utterly blown away. Every collection has a strong narrative and I cannot wait to speak with Hannah to hear all about the character behind the latest offering.

----------

Bunney

Andrew Bunney longed to create objects that look like something one may be used to yet recast in a new light with precious metals, becoming new, yet at the same time, familiar. Ultimately, Bunney was drawn to the idea of coming up with something everybody or anybody could wear...even nervous individuals like myself. For the last few seasons, he has been quietly navigating an elegant and refined men's jewellery offering that have grabbed my attention and left me experimenting. The Bunney offering has evolved from a single item - a large size silver pyramid stud which came in a set of three to something of a magpie's haven. For the latest season, the fruits of his search to create series of padlocks can finally be enjoyed. Inspired by the practice of Love Padlocking in Paris and beyond, Bunney sought the last bastions of British craftsmen to create his precious padlocks.  

A beautifully crafted lucky rabbit's foot. The ideal way to mark the year of the rabbit.

----------

Mr Hare

Oh Mr. Hare, how much we love you and your creations. The brand has been close to our hearts the moment we heard that our favourite shoeist was creating something out of his obsession. Since then, the brand has deservedly gone from strength to strength. His fine leather creations can now be found across the world in an expanding selection of much loved retail outlets, from Selfridges to Colette to Beams. In his continued quest to dominant the world of shoes, Mr Hare has unveiled his latest collection and there might be a few surprises. Given our affection to the brand, I will merely tease with a few looks before going in to great detail with the man himself very soon.

Beautiful boots, subtle branding (check out the four hares and a swan) and even a Vibram sole. Stunning stuff from our favourite shoeist.

----------

Casely-Hayford

Now in its sixth season Casely-Hayford is undeniably forging a new handwriting of modern English style and here they serve up a huge collection. The father and son design duo have created a signature style of relaxed masculine proportions and exquisite tailoring, all the while fused with an injection of the raw energy of London's dynamic culture that constantly inspires them. With each season, the design duo begin with the desire to capture, play and experiment with the duality of English Sartorialism and British Anarchy. In creating a new collection their driving motivation is to capture the feelings of an ever-changing environment and to communicate society's natural inclination to move forward. The clothes start from a traditional stand point, but rather than being nostalgic and whimsical, they choose to reflect the spirit of twenty first century gentleman - a character conscious of many reference points yet someone who chooses to distill his style into a concise statement. Things have moved on since the days of the Duke of Windsor, and although he is a great inspiration and a foundation for the brand, the modern sartorialist has a different appetite. Their requirements, desires, and practical needs are frequently drawn towards a synergy between the formal and athletic. For this collection, the duo include the requirement and need of protection and comfort against the elements. This sartorial cocktail runs throughout the outerwear, tailoring and accessories. There is always a narrative at the core of what they do, connecting each collection to the last and making foundations for the next. 

As always, the collection is designed in London and made in Japan. Fine English fabrics are combined with the signature House cut and Japanese artisan construction to create a unique design statement and commitment to enduring quality.

The fabric combination are always a delight. Each item is full of details. I could literally spend hours closely examining the contents of each rail.

With a collection taking up over three rails of Showroom space, Casely-Hayford now offer the complete wardrobe. But that is not enough. Now, we have some exciting news to share. The design duo are launching their first luxury sneaker for AW11. The house have created a new streamlined Hi silhouette on a unique last with a modern minimal aesthetic. The sneakers have been designed to compliment the relaxed masculine proportions of fine tailoring and jersey suiting that the brand has become renowned for. Premium grained leather and fine quality suede trim dominate the upper, set on a sole crafted from a unique vulcanised rubber that will undoubtedly become a defining feature of the signature Casely-Hayford Hanbury sneaker. These will be available in select stores from July 2011 but here's a sneak peek...

The Hanbury will no doubt cause a flutter or two.

----------

The Showroom Next Door is an inviting and vibrant place where fashion, art and craftsmanship collide and can be appreciated side by side. If you are in town and have a spare moment, please do drop in. However, do not despair if you can't it in yourself, over the course of the next week I will be enthusing over the highlights in detail. In the meantime, I'm off to bed and long to wake up with the Showroom as my wardrobe.

The BoF and Bill Amberg Project

Today, Bill Amberg Accessories Ltd. and The Business of Fashion announce the launch of the Calgary, a co-designed, co-conceived design project and crowdsourcing experiment which will help better understand and spark conversation about how the collective wisdom of crowds could shape fashion businesses, big and small, in years to come.

The BoF's Imran Amed, like us, is a long time fan of Bill Amberg's much coveted leather products and this project is a welcome union of their two areas of expertise. As you should all know, from their studio in North West London, Bill Amberg create stunning bags to travel, work and enjoy for a lifetime. Each and every one of Bill’s bags are unique, practical and most importantly beautiful. Similarly, the Business of Fashion should need no introduction. Since the inception of this indispensable site in 2007, Imran Imran has emerged as one of the leading thinkers on the profound changes that digital media are having on the fashion industry. Rather than a straight forward design collaboration, this project positions itself as an opportunity to learn about the creative and development process of high-end leather goods production and is more an an impromptu experiment with crowdsourcing, which is currently such a hot topic in the fashion business. The landscape of fashion communication and commerce continues to evolve radically and crowdscourcing is just one development (as discussed by the FT last weekend) and this project is keen to explore the potential benefits.

The full Calgary spectrum

Aside from the intriguing crowdsourcing angle, the project of course involves the creation of a heart racingly good accessory. With the Calgary, the world's of Bill Amberg and The Business of Fashion collide and the result is a stunning range of unisex tote style bags, a balance of function. Named after Imran's hometown, the bags were designed and created at The Bill Amberg Studios in London, each one hand made by a Bill Amberg leather craftsman. Stylish and elegant on the outside, functional on the inside. The bag is designed to fit the lifestyle of the busy, modern gentleman or gentlewoman. The bag is entirely padded with neoprene to protect technology, and includes specially designed pockets for iPads, Blackberries, and iPhones. Perfect for fashion week...

The BoF's very own Imran Amed road testing his Calgary in New York. 

Shot by Susie. 

It has been more than a year in the making and Imran has met with Bill several times over the past twelve months to fine tune what was originally intended to be a small project, but has organically grown into something more interesting, substantial, and very BoF. Here we talk to Imran to learn more about the project and take a closer look at the range...

----------

SS: You, like us, have been a huge fan of Bill Amberg leather products but how did your admiration evolve in to a co-designed range?

Imran Amed: I first met Bill at Pitti Uomo one year ago. When a CNN journalist called me later that same day to chat about luxury brands best suited to the post-recessionary environment in 2010, Bill Amberg was top of mind. After I filmed an interview clip in his store, Bill asked if I might like to work on a bag with him. The collaboration grew from there.

SS: Named after your hometown, the Calgary range is is a unisex tote bag that balances fashion and function effortlessly. Could you talk us through the collaborative dynamic of the project, including your working relationship with Bill and his team.

Imran Amed: Bill and I first started discussing ideas for the bag over a year ago. I have met with Bill and his team team regularly over the past twelve months, at first to discuss ideas for the bag, to watch as the first prototype was built, to provide feedback on the prototype and then to discuss the launch strategy. We have learned a lot from each other from out various vantage points and areas of expertise, Bill with design and craftsmanship and BoF with our understanding of digital media.

Calgary Black (limited edition)

SS: The range has the demands and requirements of modern life at it's design heart. What are the key design elements?

Imran Amed: There are special pockets for all sorts of technology and the bag is entirely padded with neoprene for additional protection. There is also a removable shoulder strap, which is functional as well as being a nice design detail.

SS: Now, I spotted you road testing the bag at NYFW, how is it coping with the assault of relentless shows and presentations?

Imran Amed: Really well! I am always carting around so much with me during fashion week, and now everything has its rightful place.

Calgary Tan Nubuck (limited edition)

SS: The launch incorporates an intriguing and exciting experimental element, crowdsourcing. Three other versions will be created based on data provided by the users of BoF over a period of three weeks. Could you talk us through the logistics and mechanics?

Imran Amed: Originally we planned to do only one version of the bag, but Bill really liked the silhouette of the bag and saw potential to do it in several materials and colours. Six of these will be limited edition bags, available for sale right away and for three other bags we are seeking feedback to help us decide which versions to produce, in which quantities. We will share the results and lessons learned with BoF readers.

Calgary Tan Woven (limited edition)

SS: The crowdsourcing element is an experiment that develops the role of the consumer, here they are active participants in production. Despite the relationship between digital media and fashion being in its infancy, you have long been one of the leading thinkers on the profound changes that have already taken place. Is this the future of retail?

Imran Amed: I'm not sure I would say it is the definitive future, and not all consumers want to get involved in providing feedback, preferring instead to take a strong lead from designers, but there are evidently others who enjoy participating in the creative process.

SS: Now, you started the BoF back in 2007 and have since gained a global following as an essential daily resource for fashion creatives, executives and entrepreneurs in over 150 countries. What's next? How would you like to see this indispensable site evolve?

Imran Amed: We'd like to continue sparking and catalysing conversations in fashion boardrooms, classrooms and studios around the world about the opportunities and risks afforded to us by new new digital tools and business models. This little impromptu crowdsourcing experiment is just one example of that.

Calgary Black Ponyskin (limited edition)

----------

The launch of the Calgary is accompanied by an interactive video created by CraneTV, showing how the bag was designed and created. Furthermore, the video employs hotspotting technology enabling consumers to 'click-to-buy'/'click-to-vote'...

----------

As discussed above, for three of the (non limited-edition) bags, the project involves a crowdsourcing survey. The survey will determine which bags are most popular and which ones should be produced, and in what quantities. For those of you who would like to be involved, Imran Amed has created a customised survey link. Use your power wisely.

Made in England on Channel 4

Michael Stoll and James Eden outside Cooper and Strollbrand.

A still from Channel 4's Made in England documentary. 

In recent seasons commentators and brands alike have taken a keen interest in how and where their clothes are made. There have been numerous labels launched on the 'Made in the...' wave of public intrigue and enthusiasm and I for one, welcome it. One of the most intriguing launches of the past twelve months was Private White V.C which we introduced to you all back in October. Now, you should remember from my previous post that the label comes from the very heart of Cooper and Stollbrand, the largest independent clothing manufacturer in the UK. This week, Channel 4's critically acclaimed First Cut strand always showcases the best in bold, bright and original documentaries by up-and-coming filmmakers turns its attention to clothing manufacturing in England and visits the renowned factory. To whet your appetite we are pleased to share a little more information about the documentary and include a selection of film still and factory shots.

To this day they sculpt and cut all their patterns by hand and still use exactly the same traditional techniques that were used in the 1960s and 1970s to cut, make and finish all of their garments.
A still from Channel 4's Made in England documentary.

Directed by Satnam Authi, Made In England, will doubt provide a unique insight into the clothing factory business in Salford. The documentary, to be aired on Friday at 7.30pm will provide a unique insight into the Salford based clothing factory business. Authi's visits Cooper and Stollbrand during the busy run-up to Christmas. Made in England takes an intimate look at the factory floor through the eyes of football-mad Jean and perfectionist Dot, who provide a vital link between management and the machinists as the business works towards completing orders in time for the festive rush.

A selection of the one hundred plus workforce in action.

A still from Channel 4's Made in England documentary.

There was a time when Lancashire was at the heart of the world’s outerwear industry. Now, the factory is one of the last bastions of the clothing manufacturing industry in the UK. Private White V.C serves as a reminder that they have and hopefully will always continue to make fantastic, market leading garments using the finest British materials and craftsmen. Cooper and Stollbrand has been producing, developing and designing for over seventy years from their factory in Salford. The company boasts a team of close to one hundred staff where they hand craft all of their patterns and manufacture their garments to be sold across the globe. The factory was taken over just over three years ago when James Eden left his lucrative job in the City to buy a stake in the business which was originally founded by his Great Grandfather, and World War One Victoria Cross winner, Jack White. Since taking over, Eden has dragged the factory out of the doldrums and into the twenty first century, developing a business that produces garments for high street retailers, premium designers and the factory's own label called Private White V.C. in celebration of both the war heroics and the garment making legacy left by his Great Grandfather on the region. 

The cutting room.

Now, I know that I will enjoy this documentary. One of my own personal highlights of blogging has been the opportunity to visit different workshops around the country to learn what can be made and the possibilities that still exist. Earlier this year I watched a pair of Dr Martens pass through the conveyor belt of skilled craftsmen at their Wollaston factory from moulding to the application of the Air Sole. Another post involved a trip up to the Cheaney factory in Desborough. For me, Cheaney represent the height of English Bench Made shoe making. It takes eight weeks to make a pair of Cheaney shoes, it involves around one hundred and sixty hand operations, from cutting the leather through to finishing, combining the best of contemporary design with superb quality. 

One of the machines in the factory.

It is always an absolute pleasure observing craftsmen at work. Long may these traditions continue and be supported. There should be a universal desire to make everything as well as possible. We should approach 'Made In England' knowing that there is a long history and tradition of producing certain products extremely well, for example jewellery, textiles, tailoring and shoes. Of course British manufacturing is much, much, smaller than in years gone by, there are always difficulties and some traditions or techniques have unfortunately disappeared. Of course it would be easier to produce things more quickly in other countries, but sometimes it is about establishing relationships too and keeping traditions alive where possible.

The pattern for one of the label's jackets.

Made in England airs on Channel 4 at 7.30pm on Friday 18th February and will be available on 4OD soon after.