Woo'd by Wooyoungmi

Having first seduced the 'Land of the Morning Calm' with her vision of menswear, the Korean designer Wooyongmi then began showing in Paris in July 2002 with her eponymous line. With an eye for advanced sartorial details, the designer has since established herself as a must-see show on Paris' hectic Sunday schedule. From the very beginning, the designer has been fond of straight and clean graphic cuts and has constructed a design signature of simple, modern and carefully crafted pieces.

Each season, her garments are streamlined and enriched with details and styled finishes that reinvent the wardrobe for men without frightening them. Wooyoungmi offers a quiet revolution. Now, I have long been a member of the party but have not been able to wear the covetable uniform. However, thanks to our wise Tokyo guide, Mr Streetpeeper, I was able to pick up a couple of current season bargains at the Gotemba Premium Outlet Mall. Susie has already detailed her enthusiasm for this sprawling kingdom of reduced prices that left us both guilt ridden tourists as we turned our backs on the wonders of Mount Fuji and instead headed to the red bricked, promised land of discounting. All I'll say is I'm very pleased with my souvenirs from Gotemba. The pick of the bunch were two items from Wooyoungmi's stunning SS11 collection that I uncovered in the Via Bus Stop store.

For SS11, Wooyongmi showcased a myriad of potent sartorial concoctions that blurred the lines between individual garments and explore the idea of a uniforn. With a focused intent on highlighting the importance of outerwear across all seasons, the label managed to offer elegant coats which were at times hybrids of shirts and at others, jackets. 

Wooyoungmi trench coat and combat trousers worn with a Sunspel t shirt and boots by Grenson.

Suffice to say, after the discovery of Gotemba and having had the good fortune of adding two Wooyoungmi pieces to my wardrobe, I'm hooked on the designer and will soon start saving to add more. As it always pays to plan ahead and before she reveals her SS12 collections in Paris next week, I thought I'd take a closer look at the AW11 collection.

For AW11, Wooyongmi juxtaposed technical fabrics and details with more luxurious components of menswear. There was an ever intriguing play between the practical and the traditional. Materials and garments were twisted and manipulated with drawstrings and padding so that they fit a twenty first century urban lifestyle. Thanks to the backstage shots of James Mountford, we can get drunk off of detail shot, after detail shot...

Backstage shots by James Mountford.

As I plan and save for my next investment in to Wooyoungmi, I look forward to covering her SS12 show in Paris next Sunday. The quiet revolution continues...

Exploring The Contemporary Fix

When I finally decided to make the trip to Tokyo, a place I have been day dreaming about visiting for the last ten years or so, there was one aspect of the city that I was most excited about exploring for myself. Of course, I was eager to eat my weight in all of its delicacies and was intrigued by its cat cafes, lavatory systems from the future and the limitless possibilities of its vending machines. However, I was eager to explore its retail landscape above anything else. There are certain things that the Japanese do better than anyone else. Retail (despite a recent slump in sales) is one of them. During my time in Tokyo, I enthusiastically pinballed my away across the sprawling city and discovered a myriad of concept spaces both large and small. One of the real highlights was The Contemporary Fix.

In 2008 Yuichi Yoshii, the charismatic buyer behind the Celux multi-label boutique and cult store Loveless, added yet another fine string to his bow. He opted to gut his popular Aoyama restaurant Pariya and created a concept space that celebrates the labels that it stocks. Eschewing the elaborate decoration that characterises Loveless, Yoshii kept his new haven minimal, yet still full of wonder and designer discovery. The two floored space takes a gallery approach, installing limited-time exhibitions that spotlight individual brands. The ground level is an inviting cafe and bar that rewards  and rejuvenates customers with a welcome respite from consumerism whilst the second is dedicated to offering a selection of the finest Japanese labels. During my visit I was afforded the opportunity to examine a vast offering from Phenomenon, Visvim, Bedwin & The Heartbreakers, Facetasm and SASQUATCHfabrix to name but a few. Now, I could rattle on and on but I'll save you my waffle and will instead cut to the pictorial chase.

----------

First up, Phenomenon. Established in 2004 by Takeshi Osumi (or BIG-O to his friends) as the more hi end branch and upscale brother of Swagger, Phenomenon has since been something of a cult streetwear brand that purports to fuse elements of American hip hop with that of the most enviable Japanese men's street style. The label has continually showcased a wide spectrum of intricate patterns, cuts, and overall quite out there and wild themes. The Contemporary Fix has the widest selection imaginable...

----------

The highly respected Masafumi Watanabe is the Bedwin and the Heartbreakers creative director and mastermind. The Bedwin motto is "Paramount Quality" and this drive for the very best is evident in each garment. The attention to detail and garment construction is second to none.

----------

SASQUATCHfabrix is an another avant-garde label coming out of Tokyo that has peaked its head out of the underground to widespread acclaim. The label expresses aggression and fearlessness in their approach. The brand are influenced heavily by 90’s Tokyo streetwear, and the clothing of that period. importance on the enjoyment and fun of wearing a garment.

----------

Two pairs of playful, well crafted laceups by Steam and Thread caught my eye. The combination of the smile inducing prints and the welted sole really captured my imagination. I tried to convince Streetpeeper Phil to plump for a pair but sadly to no avail.

----------

Today, where almost anything and everything can be purchased on the Internet, the onus on physical stores is to offer and provide added value. This includes things like the background music playing in the shop, flowers that please the eye, decorative books, even the mood created by the staff. It is the entire  process and cumulative effect of countless little touches that leads to the purchase of the desired items and ensures a return visit. The Contemporary Fix entertains the customer with a complete and enchanting narrative whilst facilitating the discovering of a new designer or three.

----------

Now, I did not leave the store empty handed. I left with a knit by yet another new discovery by the aptly named Tokyo label, Discovered. The local label was founded in 2001 by Tatsuya Kimura and Sanae Yoshida. The pair like little else than juxtaposing contradictory themes. For SS11, in a collection entitled 'Four You', the design duo cross check various youth culture movements. Union Jacks, dots, paisley, and leopard print all feature to dazzling effect. The knit I chose has more than a hint of the Christmas jumper about it but as you know, I'm still trying to experiment with prints and I see no harm in wearing it on a balmy day in May.

 

Discovered jumper worn with gingham shirt by b Store and trousers (another new purchase) from Ganryu.

A couple of close ups of the eye catching design.

Next time I'm in Tokyo, I will stop by The Contemporary Fix once again, if not to buy or discover but to simply sample another flavour of its tasty gelato. In the meantime, I will continue to champion well considered retail spaces.

The Documentary And A Dream SS11

As previously noted, J. LIndeberg's The Documentary and A Dream biannual book was borne out of the desire to tell the complete story of the brand and share their thoughts and values on a level beyond commercial aspects of marketing principles. Each season creatives from various disciplines are invited to freely interpret the seasonal collection and capture a particular theme within the spirit of J. Lindeberg. Now in its fourth season, the SS11 edition explores the passion to master a craft, be it creating an exquisitely cut suit, building the ultimate surfboard or focusing to become the number one athlete.

The talented group of photographers, artists, writers, illustrators and stylists that joined Art Director  Jörgen Ringstrand for this season include Olivier Zahhm, Andreas Sjödin, Julia and Hannes Hetta, Skye Parrot, Carl-Johan Paulin and Andreas Carlsbecker to name but a few. On the day of its release and before J. Lindeberg's London showroom opened its doors for a celebratory launch, we caught up with Jörgen Ringstrand to talk about the inception and continued evolution of this inspiring read...

SS: What were your inspirations, your dreams and the driving catalyst behind launching The Documentary and A Dream?

Jörgen Ringstrand: I work with J.Lindeberg and also run my creative agency R67Kreative, it was a fantastic moment when together with the Global Brand Director at J.Lindeberg, Stefan Engström ,we decided to start the process of creating the Biannual Book. When we started we did not know where we were heading, both Stefan and I like to work very fast and are passionate about what we do. There were no customers surveys or meetings with marketing departments, we both love books that are made with passion, love, great printing, great binding and great contributors. We just wanted to do something that reflects our minds and the world of J.Lindeberg.

SS: For me, it is a publication which weaves together people, imagery, history, newness and takes great pleasure in information exchange and learning. What does The Documentary and A Dream mean to J Lindeberg and to you personally?

Jörgen Ringstrand: For me it’s a fantastic way of together, with Stefan Engström at J.Lindeberg, to create a book with people and thoughts that inspire us. Both of us love books and with the Biannual Book we also produce it with highest quality and craftsmanship. All the bookbinding is made by hand, it’s a privilege in this time to do a book like this, especially with people focusing online or digitally. For J.Lindeberg it is a way of doing something that shows the world around the brand. The book is not made with any business or commercial goals in mind but made from a strong interest of creating a long lasting high quality product, much like the J.Lindeberg clothes.

SS: Each issue is concentrated around one key idea – a timeless theme that in various ways touches all those working in the creative fields regardless of age, cultural background or social status. This latest issue explores the world of craftsmanship and you shine the spotlight on varied individuals from an aged surfer to a jazz musician, a Russian poet to a tailor. What does the word craftsmanship mean to you?

Jörgen Ringstrand: It is someone who lives through their work.

SS: Could you talk us through a few of your favourite features within the issue and the stories behind them?

Jörgen Ringstrand: All are my favourite, I have put a lot of effort into them all for them to become true.

SS: Is there anything that you are particularly pleased with or excited to show?

Jörgen Ringstrand: I think it’s nice to have Olivier on board and he will also contribute on the next with a great feature we are working on right now.

SS: The contributors list is an impressive one, Olivier Zahm, Andreas Sjödin, Julia Hetta to name but a few. How do you source people to become involved in the project? What is the dynamic of the working relationship with them?

Jörgen Ringstrand:Most of the people I have followed for sometime time and seen their work and way of visualizing things. I contact then with some ideas and then we together we work out the final story. Most of the work we do is over emails which I love. I love to have that exchange of ideas and thoughts before we meet in person.

SS: In terms of contributors, is there anyone in particular that you'd like to work with the future?

Jörgen Ringstrand: I don’t really plan like that, I haven’t got anyone in mind that I am trying to catch. It is something that happens more organically

SS: Finally, how would you like to see The Documentary and a dream evolve over the coming seasons?

Jörgen Ringstrand: I would like it to be a book which reflects the mood and minds of the people involved. A book that gives creative freedom to the contributors in a large sized format, made with passion and love, to be able show their work in a great context.

----------

Now that the hangover sets in and memories of toasting the book thump around my brain, I'm fully aware that the book has now been released. This fourth edition is now available to view at J. Lindeberg stores and online. The narrative it weaves is one that expands way beyond the realms of the standard look book and runway views we are all accustomed to seeing. Throughout the book you are treated to inspiring art works, collages, interviews and an array of wonderful imagery. However, before you go and thumb through it I'd like to share a few of my favourite pages with you.  

All book images courtesy of J. Lindeberg.

Time to Slack

T&F Slack's five eyelet Derby used by Matthew Miller during Menswear Day.

Over the course of the last few months I have found myself admiring a kaleidoscope of brogues and derby shoes but have failed to note down the name of their maker. Blog readers, I have failed you but I will now make amends. The first time I came across the brand, T&F Slack Shoemakers was during the most recent, hectic Menswear Day as Matthew Miller collaborated with the Notting Hill based shoemaker to stunning effect. Now, I really should have followed up with the brand the moment my heart returned to its natural beat after the strain of fashion month but the name was lost somewhere in the deepest, darkest corner of my blogging mind. More recently I have seen the designs on the shop floor at both Selfridges and Liberty's and the final nudge to feature the SS11 collection came from Kuni Awai, who is undertaking an ongoing collaboration with the label. No more slacking on this brand.

Now, to the best of my knowledge, T&F Slack Shoemakers is the only shoe brand able to offer classic English styles made in the heart of Notting Hill. In a bit to revive shoe manufacturing in London, the brand began crafting shoes in their own five hundred square foot factory in  March 2008. Today, they make about one hundred and fifty pairs per month.  For SS11, the collection consists of an impressive array of vibrant Derby with two sole options, either colourful lightweight micro soles or stitched leather soles, Oxford Brogues fit for any playful Sunday Best outfit, loafers and even a punch Derby for an extra statement of lively intent. All are perfect to add a splash of vibrant colour to an outfit. I am reminded of a famous Matisse quote, "With colour one obtains an energy that seems to stem from witchcraft."  There is certainly some truth in this observation from the great master. Even if the weather is dark and gloomy, wearing colour rather than blending in with the clouds is much better. Escapism even. A splash of colour can really help lift your mood so why not start with your feet?

Oxford Brogue

 Derby Five

 Punch Derby

Derby Two.

Over the course of the coming weeks I will certainly pay a visit to T and F Slack's Notting Hill shop where in addition to showcasing their fine collection of men and women's crafted English styles, they offer a unique made to order offering. The service takes up to three weeks and designs are available in a wide range of colours and materials. Their highly skilled craftspeople, both within their Notting Hill factory and East London workshop keep the art of British shoemaking alive and well in London and I cannot wait to pay them a visit.

Private White V.C Pop Up

Private White V.C returns to London

One of the most intriguing launches of the past twelve months was Private White V.C which we first introduced to you all back in October and have kept an interested eye on ever since. Now, for a period of eight weeks, the label returns to London to present its new SS11 range with an exclusive pop-up boutique at 47 Lamb's Conduit Street. This weekend, I finally got the chance to take a closer look at the sophomore collection whilst taking a stroll down my favourite street.

As you should all know by now, Private White V.C comes from the very heart of Cooper and Stollbrand, the largest independent clothing manufacturer in the UK. It serves as a reminder that they have and hopefully will always continue to make fantastic, market leading garments using the finest British materials and craftsmen. Once again the collection consists of classic, timeless and traditional pieces that Jack and his contemporaries could and would wear day in and day our, in work, at home and at play. However, designed by the former head of Dunhill menswear Nick Ashley, the latest range has been developed to meet the needs of the contemporary man who is after both style and added functionality. Highlights include the new lightweight double breasted belted trench which is a natural run on from the hugely popular AW10 Great Coat and the navy SB4 jacket which is a sharper take on the classic mac. The Flight Jacket, a collaboration with Eastman Leathers is also worthy of note. It has all the traditional features of the original A-1 Flight Jacket worn by aviation heroes dating back to the late 1920's. However, the item that I have my eye on is the Combat Blazer in forest green which comes in a range of wax finishes. Of course, I could wax lyrical about the latest collection and store but I'd only bore you, the best way to get a feel of the place is to explore it...

A look around the transformed pop up store space on 47 Lamb's Conduit Street.  

Here's hoping that Private White V.C will continue to offer great value to its customers who desire the finest and most durable clothing which is hand crafted from one of the UK’s eldest and most experienced factories.