Saturday, 1 June 2013

Spring is sprung

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For a week or two last summer the usual fanfare that follows a fresh season faded to insignificance. A quiet hush descended upon the the industry as all eager eyes were firmly fixed upon Raf Simons who presented his spring/summer 13 menswear collection for his eponymous label and introduced his vision to Dior in the space in just a few days. Everything changed in an instant. The fog of apprehension that hovered over the Twittersphere was duly replaced with a sunrise of reverence and appreciation. Held breath was released with exclamation. Brushing off the weight of expectation from his well defined shoulders, the poetic, elegant, and free-thinking designer dazzled, delighted and ultimately delivered. Commentators who were all prepared to compare and contrast his work with that of other talents (*cough*Hedi*cough*) were forced to rip up their notes and were left with tired necks from never-ending nods and stinging hands from ceaseless clapping. The culmination of two game changing shows saw Simons float off through the troposphere, past the stratosphere and into the Raf-osphere. He's in a world of his own and what an inviting world it is.

As he marked a momentous new chapter by adding his delicate touch and energy to the codes of a House rich in history, he first returned, renewed and reinvigorated his own roots in another. Soundtracked by Nevermind, Raf Simons’ eponymous spring/summer 13 collection was both masculine yet feminine, familiar yet fresh, dark yet delicate. As Cobain’s cries faded out to silence, the designer’s menswear manifesto loomed large in the memory. It was a moment. A moment that didn’t go unnoticed by MRPORTER.COM’s Senior Buyer Terry Betts who proclaimed, “Raf’s use of colour and Kurt Cobain-inspired grunge florals combined to make his SS13 show one of our favourites.” With the online retailer unveiling exclusive collections with Ami, Beams Plus and Alexander Wang, the addition of Simons to the collaborative cocktail mad it an all too inviting mix for me. Adding to the collection’s original vase of beautiful blooms, this creative coming together welcomes uniquely-painted watercolour florals which have been used to transform staples of formalwear and sportswear. It is my kind of collaboration. Knowing its customer, the online emporium focussed its gaze on one enticing facet and elaborated upon in it beautifully. The thirteen piece capsule collection that blossomed online this week and I couldn't resist adding a couple of pieces to my wardrobe to help force a spring in the step of the new season...

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Short sleeved shirt and t-shirt both Raf Simons exclusives for MR.PORTER.COM worn with...
jogging bottoms by Baartmans & Siegel and trainers by Nike.

Simons' frequently and fruitfully taps into a collective consciousness that plays with collective memories of images and sounds. Each season is a sensory shake-up that mixes past, present and future. The delicate water colour florals do just that. They are polaroid promises of bouquets long given, the scent of wild flowers waiting to waft by and blossoming blooms just picked. Take my hand and stroll through the detail shots below...

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The exclusive capsule collection is available on MR.PORTER.COM now.
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Friday, 24 May 2013

Come on the Owls!

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I'm not going to lie, I have always wanted to design football kits. Especially like the best ones that I remember from the 90s," Sam Cotton confesses. Having dazzled, delighted and most importantly developed over the last three Topman sponsored MAN within London Collections: Men, the print princes of Agi&Sam have had this long held design dream realised by their long term supporter. In a couple of weeks, the design duo's colourful collection for Topman lands in store. With football kits at its heart, a twenty piece collection soon evolved to befit a sporting superstar and add a little much needed excitement to the high street.

"Gordon (Richardson) approached us after our spring/summer 13 show backstage and said 'we need to do something soon'. We thought it was him being his general lovely self, but then when we got an email from him actually confirming a meeting, we were pretty flabbergasted. We went in to see him and the team with Lulu Kennedy holding our hands. The team basically said they would love to do something with us, and explained how they wanted a full collection. We then basically went away after they had said design anything you like. So we were thinking of trying to produce something different to Topman and different to us, but in keeping with our ethos and style. 90's football kits just popped into our heads one day and we bashed out a load of designs, along with a tailored collection that fits beside it.

We wanted to produce that something that first and fore mostly wouldn't alienate our brand and our buyers from our main collection, so this needed to look different. We decided to revert back to our early forms of Agi&Sam and make it quite a youthful collection. Also range planning was alot different, as well as consolidating the prints to a small range. It needed to be concise."

The result is a collection that manages to balance their house signature with paying careful consideration to the Topman customer. A sensory shake-up that makes perfect sense. Approached at a time when the capital was in the midst of Olympic fever, the idea that sportswear kept creeping into their majestic minds should come as no surprise. Their pick of sporting era to focus on might be to some but not to the boys who lived through it. The football fanatic Sam explains:

"When you think of moments in football in the 90's you can picture the scene, remember the player, see the kit. For me, even when you see those kits now those memories come flooding back in a Pavlovian fashion. Now all the kits from the last 7 years have blurred into one for each team and though technically brilliant, it's a shame. Something has been lost and we wanted to return to it.

I loved the period of kits from 90-92, these were the best kits personally. Kits like the JVC Arsenal Navy and Yellow, the Chelsea away Grey and Orange Kit, or the Sharp Blue and White United Kit were all amazing. Plus the keeper kits were incredible, there was an amazing editorial by one of Agi's mates for Green Soccer Journal we found recently with all the old 90's keeper kits folded into poses from the famous keepers in those kits. Again this brings me back to those Pavlovian memories, I can literally see those keepers making those saves and remember most of the games. You could never do that now."

"Growing up my hero in football was definitely David Beckham, continues Sam proudly without hesitation. "I actually met him in LA at a dinner last year and literally lost my shit. Agi had to come and rescue me." Stepping into rescue Sam once more, Agi Mdumulla saves his design partner from any needless awkwardness by adding his own far more embarrassing experience - being a Spurs supporter. "I used to be a big Tottenham fan when I was younger, my bedroom at home still has Tottenham wallpaper. So my heroes were Chris Armstrong, Teddy Sheringham... and lets throw in a curve ball... Stan Collymore,"Agi winks and laughs with that admission before Sam takes over once more and introduces the collection.

"The muse for all of our collections have always been quite weird, we've said before that the Agi&Sam man was a confident ladies man with a slight problem with alcohol. Even though this was a joke, when we decided on George Best for this Topman collection, it took about 3 months to realise we had subconsciously picked this man exactly. We didn't delve that deeply, we got drunk a few times designing the collection but that's about as far as we went to living the George Best dream."

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As you're dazzled and delighted by the Luke Stephenson shot look book, you should notice a familiar feathered friend flap throughout. With eggshell, feathers and the birds of prey themselves all featuring, there can be little doubt that the team's mascot is an owl. But why? Sam explains once more. 

"Well, when we first started the brand it took us about six months to name it. One of the names floating around was 'The Owls' as Agi bloody loves Owls. Then after we established the branding and art direction for Agi&Sam we noticed an Owls face in our font logo branding. This then become a logo and we've worked with this from the beginning. I then started designing a kit badge around the logo and just thought it would be a great to build it all around this. Then came the prints, nesting, feathers, owls etc. It all kind of tied in.

Designed to make us run faster, jump higher and look cooler - we should all be fans of the Owls. Despite being drenched in nostalgia, the collection feels decidedly fresh. The reason is that we are seeing this time through Agi&Sam's kaleidoscope of clashing prints and refined tailoring.  Pressing their playful prism to this golden era of kit design and encompassing their early footballing heroes and memories, it rekindled some of my own. Given the wistful whiff that exudes from the collection's moodboard, I couldn't resist taking a closer look at the designs with the help of a few of my old favourite finger flicked friends. Now, I spent countless hours begging my parents to iron the theatre of daydreams that was my Subbuteo pitch. Games could be decided by an opportunistic tackle and intervention, not from an opponent but from a crease. Many more hours were spent replaying monumental moments from matches meticulously memorized. Commentary and all. 'Time is running out in this derby game. Arsenal need to do something soon to avoid a stalemate. Seaman throws it out to Dixon, Dixon carries the ball forward, spots the run of Limpar who controls well and bursts into the box with pace before taking a tumble. Penalty...' Starring my Subbuteo Art figures and the latest set I use pieces from Agi&Sam's collection for Topman as my pitch for a spot of fun-filled extra time.

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The collections kicks off at Topman on 4th June.

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