Monday, 21 September 2009

Countdown to the 23rd: Wintle and E. Tautz

We are almost within touching distance of Menswear day and Steve has shaken off his little bug and is chomping at the bit to take his seat (or will more than likely just stand) at the showcase. As we are only a matter of mere days away, we best get a move on with our countdown! Here, we catch up with returning designer, Jsen Wintle and Patrick Grant of E. Tautz...

Jsen Wintle. Photograph by Jason Lloyd Evans

Wintle, launched in 2005 and has established a reputation for authentic luxury and fine tailoring. It is great to have Jsen back showing at London Fashion Week. Wintle presented sharply tailored, smart, menswear collection with a vintage twist in Paris back in June but we can't wait to see it up close on Wednesday. With his passion for hand tailoring, rich fabrics and immaculate detail we are in for a treat.

SS: What were your inspirations for the collection?
Jsen Wintle: I drew inspiration from the photographic works of Edward Burtynsky and his recurring themes of nature transformed through industry. We translated these references into engineered digital prints of the run offs of nickel mines and muddy degrade digital prints from the dust filled landscapes of the three gorges dam. The stark colour palate and the architecture of these manufactured landscapes was a real inspiration. The softness of nature transformed through industry.

SS: What are you most looking forward to showing on the 23rd September?
Jsen Wintle: The collection takes a bit of a lighter note this season, I wanted to show a softer hand to the tailoring which is largely unstructured, collapsible yet still substantial. More day to night. Less precious but still super luxurious. The leather wear, in heavily brushed and tumbled nubuck, is particularly good too I think!

SS: Have you got any anecdotes of making the collection that you can share?
Jsen Wintle: We spent a really long time on the engineered prints and degrade. It was a bit of nightmare actually but great fun. I’m really pleased with them. We achieved the result of making them look really simple from a distance though they are far from.

SS: What item of clothing (if any) do you wish that more men wore?
Jsen Wintle: A jacket and trousers that are the right length and fit for their body and personality.

SS: Aside from your own, which collections are you looking forward to seeing?
Jsen Wintle: Sadly we will be so busy on our own show and everything else going on that we won't get to see anyone else.

E. Tautz's very own Patrick Grant

We excitedly covered the resurrection of E. Tautz back in February as the historic sporting and military outfitters took its place in the extended MAN afternoon. Since its relaunch E. Tautz has deservedly gone from strength-to-strength (as mentioned in previous posts) and SS10 sees the launch of its second ready to wear collection. Steve was fortunate enough to meet the lovely Patrick Grant to discuss the last few months and the inspirations behind the Spring/Summer offering for Dazed Digital. For Menswear Day the sporting and military outfitters will unveil an animated film by Quentin Jones.

SS: What were your inspirations for the collection?
Patrick Grant: We took our inspiration from a set of photographs of the Duke of Windsor on holiday on the island of Majorca in the 1930’s. Just the most chic summer wardrobe imaginable.

SS:What are you most looking forward to showing on the 23rd September?
Patrick Grant: We showed the collection in June so we commissioned a young British Artist called Quentin Jones to make us a short animated film for London.

SS: Have you got any anecdotes of making the collection that you can share?
Patrick Grant: Once again our tour of Britain unearthed some real gems. Amazing materials and fantastic little workshops. We’ve drunk a lot of tea and sat on a lot of (mostly rather tardy) trains in bringing this collection together.

SS: What item of clothing (if any) do you wish that more men wore?
Patrick Grant: Beards, with good moustaches. I was in New York last week and saw a chap with a tash that must have been a foot wide. Terrific.

SS: Aside from your own, which collections are you looking forward to seeing?
Patrick Grant: Christopher Kane will be my highlight, not just because we’ve worked with him again, but I always enjoy Richard Nicoll, Luella, Jonathan Saunders, House of Holland and Roksanda. On the boys side b Store and Topman are always very cool.

2 comments:

John said...

Looking forward to seeing Jsen's return to London and this animation sounds intriguing. Have fun on Wednesday guys.

Mat said...

great interview. i can't grow a good beard or tache, that will come with age i hope. looking forward to seeing the coverage of all the menswear. why don't i live in london again?

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