Friday, 27 November 2009

Discovered designers

Hong Kong is something of a fashion mecca. Having spent ten days exploring the streets, malls and outlets it seems that one my favourite hobbies has been elevated to immense importance. Worshipped even. Shopping is an important facet of everyday life here and practically everyone indulges in a bit of consumerism on a daily basis. I certainly gave this way of life a good old go when I was there but my previous over indulgences and battered bank balance limited my spending somewhat, even if my self restraint could not. When I wasn't buying things I had a great time window shopping and none more so than at Joyce.

Whilst Susie was snapping away at the festive display of Anthony Vaccarello's collection I stalked the well stocked menswear rails and discovered a few names in the process, namely Nicolas Andreas Taralis, Yoyan Serfaty and Romain Kremer. I had heard the names before (most notably Kremer) but this was the first opportunity I've really had to inspect the designs up close. These might be names that you are unfamilair with but I think it is about time you got to know one another. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures whilst there but as if by magic, Touch magazine ran a feature showcasing the very best from each designer.

Nicolas Andreas Taralis has worked with some of the greatest minds in mens fashion (after studying with Lang, he worked with Hedi at Dior Homme and spent time at Cerruti) and since creating his own label has worked on numerous projects around the world and generated somewhat of a cult following for his renowned style. He is a designer who is fascinated with eastern aesthetics, particularly that of Japan and these influences are a common trend throughout his collections.

Paris-based Yohan Serfaty has made a name for himself with his deft handling of leathers. His pieces are often simple but have a modern feeling and the subtle tailoring which runs through his collections make him a designer to remember. Relatively unknown in the UK and US, Serfaty has a devoted following in Japan, with famed Tokyo store, Isetan, as one of his stockists. He is something of a classicist who grounds wardrobes with investment pieces. Having seen his designs in person, there were more than a few pieces I wanted to invest in.

The first time I really stood up and took notice of Kremer's menswear aesthetic, with his neon fur, see-through plastic and rainbow colours in the Man Machine issue of Dazed & Confused back in May. The acid induced editorial was photographed by Pierre Debusschere and styled by the ever awesome Nicola Formichetti. Utilizing a colour palette of hot pink, brown, and black, the French designer presented a bold skin baring collection of largely monochromatic pieces for AW09. Kremer is a designer who attempts to change the way we view clothes and their relationship with gender. I look forward to seeing a great deal more from this designer.

Window shopping can be a lot of fun. Have you discovered any designers recently?


Anonymous said...

Kremer rocks my world!!! I loved the video that Pierre filmed for Dazed.

mahret said...

i've came across Yohan Serfaty just recently. He really fits into my Rick Owen'esque kind of fahion understanding, yet much more crafted in a way. His women's line is really great aswell.

Percy said...

Kremer's hooded tops look amazing! Nice simple tailoring but really fresh looks!
latest look-book now up!

Blank Label said...

well... to shamelessly self-promote, I am an emerging designer, but YOU can be too! since we launched our custom dress shirt application OCT 31st, 2009, we've been empowering anyone to be their own designer for their custom dress shirt.

Giancinephile said...

Kremer will always be one of my favourites of all time!!!!! haha

Christopher said...

yes, Joyce. probably one of the best department stores in the world.


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