Braille AW11 Our Damn Hands

Braille burst on to the scene at Vauxhall Fashion Scout back in February of last year and they've since gone from strength to strength and deservedly so. The London based design duo, Benjamin Vorono and Samuel Kientsch, are able to design garments that can effortlessly slide in to any man's wardrobe.  In just twelve months, the pair have carved a covetable reputation for creating reimagined wardrobe staples that have a strong but delicate touch. The discovery of the label was one of the real blogging highlights of the year and we've kept a close eye on their development ever since. To mark the launch of their third collection, Our Damn Hands, we catch up with one half of the design duo to learn more about the collection before excitedly sharing a preview of their video look.

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SS: What was the initial starting point for the collection?
Samuel Kientsch: We were initially drawn to imagery from Detroit and New Orleans, a certain beauty in the decomposition of these historically important cities. In our minds these places are ripe for entrepreneurialism, this enthusiasm is at the heart of Our Damn Hands.

SS: During Fashion 156's insightful Designer Track series I read that you took inspiration from a road trip around the UK. How did the British countryside inspire the collection?
Samuel Kientsch: Nature offers a real sense of freedom it allows the creativity that we have been kicking around in the city to blossom and come to life. After getting out of town it becomes much easier to understand the collection we've have been dreaming about. In more straightforward terms the colour palette, especially the celadon and slate are a direct reference to the environment we encountered on our walks.

SS: British Fabrics and manufacture are a fundamental facet of the label and I know that you've searched for the craftsmen to help make your designs a reality. What does Made in England mean to you?
Samuel Kientsch: We think it's unfortunate that manufacturing has been economically forced out of the United Kingdom. A factory that we are currently using is in real danger of going out of business and if this continues to happen 'Made in England' will only carry a greater premium. We don't champion 'Made in England' because we feel the quality is necessarily better but rather it is simply about supporting the community. There are enough designers in London and we feel the production side should be better served. Long-term opening our own factory is definitely a goal but only if the government is serious about creating jobs. Funding is desperately needed for small businesses of all kinds.

SS: The collection showcases a wonderful sense of texture. The fabric combinations in the outerwear are particularly stunning. Could you talk us through a few of your favourites?
Samuel Kientsch: The Reversible Bomber uses suede and wool, the suede is elegant and the wool more utilitarian, we used cording to add texture and to emphasize the masculine shape. The Duffle Coat has gotten the best reaction so far. When you pick it up you can sense from its weight that it is going to keep you nice and warm, we used leather binding as a bridge between the softness of the wool and the hardness of the fireman's clips.

SS: In only three seasons, you've managed to forge a clear design signature but how would you describe it?
Samuel Kientsch: We have always strived to have a real balance between strong and delicate in each individual garment. It's important that our clothes are inherently masculine but genteel details go a long way.

SS: What would you like to see Braille achieve in 2011?
Samuel Kientsch: This year is all about stabilising our business, it was really great to begin selling right at the start but it was also overwhelming at times. Our Damn Hands is a direct reference to the fact that this collection was completed up to the sampling stage with minimal assistance from interns or pattern cutters. It was a great learning experience but definitely not how we will operate in the future. Come Spring/Summer 2012 we will be in a good position to start selling to the international boutiques we have had our eyes on since the beginning.

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As with the two previous collections, Our Damn Hands is driven by textile. Here, Braille once again showcase a heady mix of breathtaking fabrics. Textural highlights include a waxed belted silk poncho, a textured wool pocket overcoat and a suede reversible corded bomber. To help showcase the collection to the full, the duo set sent through their motion look book for your viewing pleasure...

Braille AW11 - Our Damn Hands - Motion Look Book from Samuel Kientsch on Vimeo.

Showroom Next Door AW11: Mohsin Ali

As introduced last week, Mohsin Ali launched his eponymous line for AW11 at the Showroom Next Door. Having enthused over his sleek look book before my visit, my excitement grew further after I was afforded the opportunity to inspect his designs up close. For us, the real beauty of menswear is in the details and this collection has a cacophony of them. Having been inspired by twenty first century explorers, Ali has obsessed over the concept of integration and layering to create multi faceted items. From built in thumb pieces to quilted linings, this is a collection that celebrates the true beauty of menswear.

Since graduating from the LCF with a First Class honours degree in 1999, Mohsin Ali has carved a career that has seen him design and develop product for a variety of brands across the globe. He might have spent the last decade under the radar, learning his trade and refining his aesthetic but now is Ali's time to step in to the spotlight with a remarkably accomplished debut offering. For this exciting talent, design should be questioned and challenged at all times and only then can you produce and create something truly special. All appliance should be for a reason. Throughout his debut collection, Ali showcases a real love for both traditional and technical fabrics mixing both in his collections as well as his fascination with cut and silhouette. Here, we take a closer look at the collection and talk to the designer about launching his own label and following the rules of form, fabric and function.

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The enticing two rails of product at the Showroom Next Door.

SS: You graduated from LCF with a first class honours degree back in 1999. Having resisted the temptation to set up your own label up until now, what have you been up to?

Mohsin: It is so, so difficult to launch your own line at that age. Also, my background is a bit different from most. When I was seventeen I was buying Comme des Garcons for a shop in Leeds and I've been around labels since a young age, I understand really nice, beautiful product. After I graduated I decided that I wanted to consult and work on a freelance basis. I was soon involved in all aspects of the industry, from problem solving to designing to manufacturing. All were key elements to what I do now.

SS: What were your inspirations, your dreams and the driving catalyst behind launching your own label?

Mohsin Ali: This is just where I want to be. I love menswear. I understand it from a retail perspective as well as a design one and now just felt the right time. There is an interest and has been a real lift in menswear but there was a gap in the market for what I wanted to offer. I'm in an environment here where I want to put on a pair of Mr Hare sheepskin lined boots with my outwear trousers and a coat. This is sophisticated menswear.

SS: What was the starting point for the collection?

Mohsin Ali: The collection is actually based around the concept of twenty first century explorers. I was drawn to idea that your initial skin has to be the warmest and therefore the importance of layering and thermals. The collection is built around these ideas which is why some of the garments have built in thumb pieces, others have sheepskin liners, quilting and detachable liners. Additionally, I was intrigued by the idea that the less you carry the easier it is to travel. My interpretation of this was to apply less and integrate more. Everything is integral. Piece by piece, everything is cut in and we've done through the shirting, trousers and outerwear so everything is flat and streamlined.

SS: For us, menswear is all about the details and this collection has them in an abundance...

Mohsin Ali: Exactly. To the naked eye a product can be simple only when you analyse and look closely do you see the really beauty, the real greatness. This is what interests me most about design.

SS: The label lives by three main rules; form, fabric and function...

Mohsin Ali: Exactly, it is all about shape, detail and fabric. Sometimes People can question your work when it is a simple product because there is little appliance to distract. Your shape, detailing and finish all have to be right. There is nowhere to hide with this type of design. Everything has to be there for a reason.

SS: Throughout each piece you've experimented with shape and fabric. Could you talk us through the silhouette and your love of fabric.

Mohsin Ali: I've always loved the interplay between narrow and oversized garments. The shapes come from there really. I wanted to keep it simple and actually once you break it down the shapes are simple but I've experiment with fabric.

I do love great fabric. If I had my way, I would source them all from here but unfortunately it is not possible. A lot of the wools are from here and Italy, the more technical fabrics come from Italy and all of my jerseys come from a mill in Yorkshire.

SS: Local manufacture is an important facet of the label. How difficult was it to produce the collection here in the UK?

Mohsin Ali: The first challenge is that I want to continue English manufacturing, the industry is here and I want to use it for as long a possible. It was great working with the factories for this collection, some of the elements of the collection were fine and others were more difficult. Throughout the collection, I wanted to explore cut and a number of the pieces are technically difficult. We are in a manufacturing age in the UK where a number of the factories do not offer laser cutting facilities, here it is all done by hand. More costly but the results are fantastic.

SS: Who is the Mohsin Ali man? How would you like to see men buy the collection?

Mohsin Ali: Ideally, I would like men to buy it piece by piece to build a collection. I'm hoping that it becomes a product that is timeless that could be worn for years and years. I'd like to walk in to a store and see it alongside the likes of Raf and Jil Sander because those are the brands I love but I would like people to come in just for my designs. Ultimately, I want people to appreciate it. For stores to pick it up and for people to buy it and wear it.

SS: How has the reaction been to your collection?

Mohsin Ali: It has been great. So many people have remarked that it doesn't look like a first collection and it shouldn't do. I'm thirty five years old and I've worked in the industry for a number of years but still, I'm pleased with the finish of this collection.

SS: This is the eve of Menswear Day at LFW, moving forward a season two down the line, would you like to show as part of the day?

Mohsin Ali: At the moment, I'd rather create an amazing installation rather than a catwalk show. When you are younger, all you want to do is show on a catwalk but now, I've got amazing ideas for installations. There are artists who I would love to bring in and I've begun to think about how I would love to display the pieces.

SS: Finally, what would you like to achieve in 2011?

Mohsin Ali: I want to make it even more sophisticated next season. For SS12, I've been inspired by Zaha Hadid, both in terms of her architecture and her philosophy to design. I'm already excited.

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The format of the Showroom Next Door allowed me to inspect, touch and marvel and each piece. Ali's approach might appear simple at first glance but it is multifaceted and detail rich. Below are just a few of the details that caught my eye...

"To the naked eye a product can be simple, only when you analyse and look closely do you see the really beauty"

Showroom Next Door For AW11

For the last three seasons my London Fashion Week has begun with an elongated visit to the ever fruitful, Touba Distrubution curated, Showroom Next Door. Why should AW11 be any different? So, before I was seduced by the charms of b Store's reimagined, My Own Private Idaho inspired functional menswear whilst nodding along to the sounds of Blood Music (more on that later), I explored the latest Showroom. Spread over two floors on Grosvenor Street, the space has once again became my dream walk-in wardrobe. 

The Showroom space exemplifies everything that I find exciting about menswear design in London; namely it's diversity and constant sense of sartorial evolution and revolution. This season is is no different. In fact, I'm pleased to say that it has managed to improve and grow further. Fode, Yuko and Trevor strive to showcase a diverse collection of international designers but above all seek to provide a platform for both established and exciting new British talents. The AW11 lineup reflect their hard work and passion. Casely-Hayford, Mr Hare, Mohsin Ali, Armando Cabral, H by Harris, Chauncey, Hannah Martin and Bunney read like a who's who of men's fashion. These are undoubtedly exciting times for menswear and I'm so pleased that there are platforms like the Showroom Next Door that help to showcase the obvious and abundant talent that call this capital of ours its home. Over the course of the coming week, whenever I have a spare moment, I will locate myself in these inspiring surroundings and speak with each of the designers in turn for more in depth posting. However, whilst the initial excitement bounces around inside of my enthused brain, I have to share my initial thoughts on the highlights of the season...

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Chauncey

Chauncey is a Brussels-based menswear label and combines the talents of designer Nathalie Bouhana and her photographer partner David Sdika. It is a relatively recent discovery for this blogger but it is a label that I've been hearing an awful lot of good things about so it is great to finally be able to marvel at it in person. Having previously designed knitwear for Hermès, Salvatore Ferragamo and Anne Valérie Hash, Nathalie certainly has an eye for luxury knits. Creative, minimalist but exclusive, Chauncey prides itself on European craftsmanship. Aside from the rich colour palette there is no eccentricity, just quality and modern design. Extreme precision and the highest quality yarns and manufacturers. An "elegant gentleman traveler" look with a slice of Belgian surrealism. These are knits that your skin longs to touch.

Unsurprisingly, I'm particularly fond of the polka dot number in grey.

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H by Harris

The H by Harris label heralds the new school in desirable contemporary accessories. Harris designs aptly uses the term 'luxury fatigues' to define his unique style. Regular readers will recall that the debut H by Harris collection comprised itself of two lines, the Q hand quilted nappa leather and the SH wax hide leather collection. Both left me wanting to sell an organ or turn to a life of crime just to have one hanging off his arm. Since then, Harris has slowly but surely added new styles to covet.

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Hannah Martin

With a prestigious Central St Martins design education and a handful of awards behind her, it should come as no surprise that Hannah Martin is shaking up the world of luxury jewellery as we know it. Her luxurious and decadent collections are described as ‘jewellery for men, that girlfriends will steal’ and if I had a piece in my possession I would certainly sleep with one eye open from fear of Susie pilfering it. The look is elegant yet decidedly rock n’ roll. Each time I see her well crafted designs I am utterly blown away. Every collection has a strong narrative and I cannot wait to speak with Hannah to hear all about the character behind the latest offering.

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Bunney

Andrew Bunney longed to create objects that look like something one may be used to yet recast in a new light with precious metals, becoming new, yet at the same time, familiar. Ultimately, Bunney was drawn to the idea of coming up with something everybody or anybody could wear...even nervous individuals like myself. For the last few seasons, he has been quietly navigating an elegant and refined men's jewellery offering that have grabbed my attention and left me experimenting. The Bunney offering has evolved from a single item - a large size silver pyramid stud which came in a set of three to something of a magpie's haven. For the latest season, the fruits of his search to create series of padlocks can finally be enjoyed. Inspired by the practice of Love Padlocking in Paris and beyond, Bunney sought the last bastions of British craftsmen to create his precious padlocks.  

A beautifully crafted lucky rabbit's foot. The ideal way to mark the year of the rabbit.

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Mr Hare

Oh Mr. Hare, how much we love you and your creations. The brand has been close to our hearts the moment we heard that our favourite shoeist was creating something out of his obsession. Since then, the brand has deservedly gone from strength to strength. His fine leather creations can now be found across the world in an expanding selection of much loved retail outlets, from Selfridges to Colette to Beams. In his continued quest to dominant the world of shoes, Mr Hare has unveiled his latest collection and there might be a few surprises. Given our affection to the brand, I will merely tease with a few looks before going in to great detail with the man himself very soon.

Beautiful boots, subtle branding (check out the four hares and a swan) and even a Vibram sole. Stunning stuff from our favourite shoeist.

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Casely-Hayford

Now in its sixth season Casely-Hayford is undeniably forging a new handwriting of modern English style and here they serve up a huge collection. The father and son design duo have created a signature style of relaxed masculine proportions and exquisite tailoring, all the while fused with an injection of the raw energy of London's dynamic culture that constantly inspires them. With each season, the design duo begin with the desire to capture, play and experiment with the duality of English Sartorialism and British Anarchy. In creating a new collection their driving motivation is to capture the feelings of an ever-changing environment and to communicate society's natural inclination to move forward. The clothes start from a traditional stand point, but rather than being nostalgic and whimsical, they choose to reflect the spirit of twenty first century gentleman - a character conscious of many reference points yet someone who chooses to distill his style into a concise statement. Things have moved on since the days of the Duke of Windsor, and although he is a great inspiration and a foundation for the brand, the modern sartorialist has a different appetite. Their requirements, desires, and practical needs are frequently drawn towards a synergy between the formal and athletic. For this collection, the duo include the requirement and need of protection and comfort against the elements. This sartorial cocktail runs throughout the outerwear, tailoring and accessories. There is always a narrative at the core of what they do, connecting each collection to the last and making foundations for the next. 

As always, the collection is designed in London and made in Japan. Fine English fabrics are combined with the signature House cut and Japanese artisan construction to create a unique design statement and commitment to enduring quality.

The fabric combination are always a delight. Each item is full of details. I could literally spend hours closely examining the contents of each rail.

With a collection taking up over three rails of Showroom space, Casely-Hayford now offer the complete wardrobe. But that is not enough. Now, we have some exciting news to share. The design duo are launching their first luxury sneaker for AW11. The house have created a new streamlined Hi silhouette on a unique last with a modern minimal aesthetic. The sneakers have been designed to compliment the relaxed masculine proportions of fine tailoring and jersey suiting that the brand has become renowned for. Premium grained leather and fine quality suede trim dominate the upper, set on a sole crafted from a unique vulcanised rubber that will undoubtedly become a defining feature of the signature Casely-Hayford Hanbury sneaker. These will be available in select stores from July 2011 but here's a sneak peek...

The Hanbury will no doubt cause a flutter or two.

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The Showroom Next Door is an inviting and vibrant place where fashion, art and craftsmanship collide and can be appreciated side by side. If you are in town and have a spare moment, please do drop in. However, do not despair if you can't it in yourself, over the course of the next week I will be enthusing over the highlights in detail. In the meantime, I'm off to bed and long to wake up with the Showroom as my wardrobe.

Forgotten Future AW11

Back in July last year, I discovered and rediscovered Richard Dawson's label Forgotten Future and have kept a close eye on its development ever since. His third collection, entitled Pony Youth features an eclectic mix of attention grabbing pattern and texture that makes this blogger want to reach out and touch. For AW11, Dawson has once again served up a heady cocktail of vintage detailing and sportswear styling. Here is a quiet preview of the collection before we get swallowed up by LFW and grow too weary of beautiful clothes...

For AW11, Dawson has once again served up a heady cocktail of vintage detailing and sportswear styling. Partly influenced by the work of photographer Perry Ogden, who in the 1990's documented the disappearing youth culture at Dublin's Horse Fairs, this collection pervades the Irish estate youths nonchalance throughout. A generational hand me down aesthetic runs through the collection to inspire a silhouette of over sized proportions. A particular highlight is the Fair Isle patterning that echoes the images captured by Ogden's lens. Here, it has been reinvented in printed, digital form and incorporates motifs and off beat colourways. Other influences continue the post war feelings introduced by the previous season, evolving the make-do-and-mend approach to much cherished and well worn garments. Pocket detailing from an uncovered pair of 1950's American scout trousers affords a casual work wear approach to the collections tailoring. Even more interestingly, darning, a somewhat forgotten homespun craft is reinterpreted as a casual play on embellishment. Worn areas of a favourite blazer are given a new lease of life, challenging the notion of disposable fashion to create a hand crafted feature which underlies Dawson's ever apparent celebration of the worn and loved....

Look book credits. 

Photography by David Poole. Model is Owen Trainor.

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Silhouette and proportional play are key to Forgotten Future's aesthetic along with a high degree of workmanship. This collection expresses an everyday sartorial nonchalance that I just love. Once again, Dawson has created a collection of wardrobe staples that transcend trend by originality and individualism.

The BoF and Bill Amberg Project

Today, Bill Amberg Accessories Ltd. and The Business of Fashion announce the launch of the Calgary, a co-designed, co-conceived design project and crowdsourcing experiment which will help better understand and spark conversation about how the collective wisdom of crowds could shape fashion businesses, big and small, in years to come.

The BoF's Imran Amed, like us, is a long time fan of Bill Amberg's much coveted leather products and this project is a welcome union of their two areas of expertise. As you should all know, from their studio in North West London, Bill Amberg create stunning bags to travel, work and enjoy for a lifetime. Each and every one of Bill’s bags are unique, practical and most importantly beautiful. Similarly, the Business of Fashion should need no introduction. Since the inception of this indispensable site in 2007, Imran Imran has emerged as one of the leading thinkers on the profound changes that digital media are having on the fashion industry. Rather than a straight forward design collaboration, this project positions itself as an opportunity to learn about the creative and development process of high-end leather goods production and is more an an impromptu experiment with crowdsourcing, which is currently such a hot topic in the fashion business. The landscape of fashion communication and commerce continues to evolve radically and crowdscourcing is just one development (as discussed by the FT last weekend) and this project is keen to explore the potential benefits.

The full Calgary spectrum

Aside from the intriguing crowdsourcing angle, the project of course involves the creation of a heart racingly good accessory. With the Calgary, the world's of Bill Amberg and The Business of Fashion collide and the result is a stunning range of unisex tote style bags, a balance of function. Named after Imran's hometown, the bags were designed and created at The Bill Amberg Studios in London, each one hand made by a Bill Amberg leather craftsman. Stylish and elegant on the outside, functional on the inside. The bag is designed to fit the lifestyle of the busy, modern gentleman or gentlewoman. The bag is entirely padded with neoprene to protect technology, and includes specially designed pockets for iPads, Blackberries, and iPhones. Perfect for fashion week...

The BoF's very own Imran Amed road testing his Calgary in New York. 

Shot by Susie. 

It has been more than a year in the making and Imran has met with Bill several times over the past twelve months to fine tune what was originally intended to be a small project, but has organically grown into something more interesting, substantial, and very BoF. Here we talk to Imran to learn more about the project and take a closer look at the range...

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SS: You, like us, have been a huge fan of Bill Amberg leather products but how did your admiration evolve in to a co-designed range?

Imran Amed: I first met Bill at Pitti Uomo one year ago. When a CNN journalist called me later that same day to chat about luxury brands best suited to the post-recessionary environment in 2010, Bill Amberg was top of mind. After I filmed an interview clip in his store, Bill asked if I might like to work on a bag with him. The collaboration grew from there.

SS: Named after your hometown, the Calgary range is is a unisex tote bag that balances fashion and function effortlessly. Could you talk us through the collaborative dynamic of the project, including your working relationship with Bill and his team.

Imran Amed: Bill and I first started discussing ideas for the bag over a year ago. I have met with Bill and his team team regularly over the past twelve months, at first to discuss ideas for the bag, to watch as the first prototype was built, to provide feedback on the prototype and then to discuss the launch strategy. We have learned a lot from each other from out various vantage points and areas of expertise, Bill with design and craftsmanship and BoF with our understanding of digital media.

Calgary Black (limited edition)

SS: The range has the demands and requirements of modern life at it's design heart. What are the key design elements?

Imran Amed: There are special pockets for all sorts of technology and the bag is entirely padded with neoprene for additional protection. There is also a removable shoulder strap, which is functional as well as being a nice design detail.

SS: Now, I spotted you road testing the bag at NYFW, how is it coping with the assault of relentless shows and presentations?

Imran Amed: Really well! I am always carting around so much with me during fashion week, and now everything has its rightful place.

Calgary Tan Nubuck (limited edition)

SS: The launch incorporates an intriguing and exciting experimental element, crowdsourcing. Three other versions will be created based on data provided by the users of BoF over a period of three weeks. Could you talk us through the logistics and mechanics?

Imran Amed: Originally we planned to do only one version of the bag, but Bill really liked the silhouette of the bag and saw potential to do it in several materials and colours. Six of these will be limited edition bags, available for sale right away and for three other bags we are seeking feedback to help us decide which versions to produce, in which quantities. We will share the results and lessons learned with BoF readers.

Calgary Tan Woven (limited edition)

SS: The crowdsourcing element is an experiment that develops the role of the consumer, here they are active participants in production. Despite the relationship between digital media and fashion being in its infancy, you have long been one of the leading thinkers on the profound changes that have already taken place. Is this the future of retail?

Imran Amed: I'm not sure I would say it is the definitive future, and not all consumers want to get involved in providing feedback, preferring instead to take a strong lead from designers, but there are evidently others who enjoy participating in the creative process.

SS: Now, you started the BoF back in 2007 and have since gained a global following as an essential daily resource for fashion creatives, executives and entrepreneurs in over 150 countries. What's next? How would you like to see this indispensable site evolve?

Imran Amed: We'd like to continue sparking and catalysing conversations in fashion boardrooms, classrooms and studios around the world about the opportunities and risks afforded to us by new new digital tools and business models. This little impromptu crowdsourcing experiment is just one example of that.

Calgary Black Ponyskin (limited edition)

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The launch of the Calgary is accompanied by an interactive video created by CraneTV, showing how the bag was designed and created. Furthermore, the video employs hotspotting technology enabling consumers to 'click-to-buy'/'click-to-vote'...

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As discussed above, for three of the (non limited-edition) bags, the project involves a crowdsourcing survey. The survey will determine which bags are most popular and which ones should be produced, and in what quantities. For those of you who would like to be involved, Imran Amed has created a customised survey link. Use your power wisely.