Tranoi Treat

This way to London Show Rooms Men

Last month we looked longingly at the happenings in Paris. As we kept an eye on the usual high end suspects, it became a little misty as we watched our favourite London designers take centre stage at Tranoi. The London Showrooms is a British Fashion Council project aimed at giving a much needed boost to British Designers exports. The showroom has successfully been running for four seasons now but SS11 saw it extend to include some of the best emerging menswear talent in the UK. The scheme, a joint collaboration by the British Fashion Council, Fashion East and The Centre for Fashion Enterprise, enables our much loved menswear designers the opportunity to sell their collections with the support of international marketing, media and sales advisers. The selection of British talents is supported by BFC’s Newgen Men sponsored by Topman, Fashion East’s Man showcase and the Centre for Fashion Enterprise (CFE) and includes special guests like Christopher Kane Mens and Jeannett’s Pop Up shop. The other designers showcasing their talents included, Bernstock Speirs, Blaak, BOYOstudio, Carolyn Massey, Christopher Raeburn, Miharayasuhiro + husam el odeh eyewear, James Long, Katie Eary, KTZ, Lou Dalton, Omar Kashoura and Tim Soar. Of course we unfortunately missed out on covering the event in person but thankfully, the one and only Carolyn Massey offered to become our intrepid reporter for the few days. Here she photographs a number of the designers involved as well as offering a sneaky peek at their SS11 collections...

Carolyn Massey's own space.

At some point in the next week or two I'll be visiting Massey at her studio to preview the collection in more detail but for now, lets just have a cheeky glance or two at her Tranoi rail. For SS11, Massey has built on the successes of recent seasons (SS110 in particular) while experimenting with a rich, season friendly colour palette. Many of the garments have an aged and lived in look which is something that I am drawn to. This of course stems from Massey's interest of handing down garments from generation to generation. These are clothes you and I will want to wear when the sun shines next year.

Christopher Raeburn and his SS collection

Christopher Raeburn's collections are highlighted for their intelligent design, high quality and extreme attention to detail as SS11 will be no different. For the new season the young design talent has played with dashing camouflage and has been inspired by the great outdoors and adaptability. As each season passes I love this designer more and more. Utilising re-appropriated military fabrics, Raeburn creates garments that are functional, intelligent and meticulously crafted. Staunchly British, all Raeburn garments are proudly 'Remade in England' and produced in East London.

Carolyn posing with BOYOstudio's Patrick Waugh

In addition to covering a number of my favourite designers, Massey's coverage has introduced me to a new label in BOYOstudio. Patrick Waugh is an accomplished artist and art director who likes to create his own visionary play with photographs who has now turned his hand to t shirt design. For SS11, Waugh's very own BOYOstudio has collaborated with British owned underwear company Sunspel, creating BOYO project No4. Together they have selected a few pieces from Sunspel's Classics collection and each has been treated with a new original BOYOstudio print.

Christopher Kane's area was a hive of activity

Christopher Kane was a special guest at Tranoi and his inclusion came as a complete surprise to this blogger. In addition to making women the world over go weak at the knees over his mainline designs with his embroidery and attention to detail, Kane has launched an amazingly successful t shirt line. After the monkey print dress in his SS09 collection the demand was so high both from men and women and the collection has since outfitted many a fashion week attendee and more. For SS11, Kane has added buttery soft leather jackets to his printed t shirts and shirts to expand his menswear offering.

Omar Kashoura and his collection of wardrobe staples for SS11

Omar Kashoura revisits the idea of outfitting the modern gentleman and has created a SS11 collection that adapts with the demanding lifestyle of the wearer given the current economic downturn. Taking heart from the make do and can do attitudes of WWII era Britain, Kashoura has created a collection of basics that every man needs in his wardrobe. This is city sartorialism for the self sufficient man...

As with every Kashoura collection I am instantly drawn to his expert use of soft fabrics and the finishing details he applies to every garment.

"Tranoi is happening! I think that the energy created collectively from the UK design talents present, and the amazing teams of people who are here and making it happen, from the BFC, CFE and Fashion East is exactly what the buyers are looking for. Were having a ball, and im already looking forward to next season...WHOOP!"

Omar Kashoura on Tranoi

James Long wearing one of his SS11 creations.

James Long's AW10 collection was one of the real highlights of the season. His strong, bold and directional menswear came of age last season. Long has a long-standing love affair with leather and their relationship blossomed over this winter collection. Mohair, matted fur and ribbed wool were played off against leather to create an update on classic men's outerwear. The juxtaposition of hard and soft continued throughout, including Longs' now trademark knits. looking over Long's shoulder here, I am dying to stroke his SS11 knitwear.

Blaak's very own Aaron Sharif.

Sachiko Okada and Aaron Sharif are the design duo who make up BLAAK. Both are graduates of London’s Central Saint Martins and they started the label in 1998 as a contemplation on the emotions around the colour black. Ever since the design duo have played, experimented and wowed through their juxtaposition of elements and silhouettes. Blaak have developed a style that is truly modern yet believable, a style that does not isolate but rather, enhances the wearer.

Jeanette's

Fresh from the basement invasion at Start Boutique, Jeanette was invited to open a pop up venture at Tranoi. Whatever the location, Jeanette handpicks the very best treasures including both archive items and new season designs from the likes of James Long, Omar Kashoura and Husam El Odeh to name but a few.

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"Paris.... shit, I'm still only in Paris. Every time I think I am going to wake up back in the jungle....
Oops, wrong movie, but it was certainly near to tropical heat. I think I should say that again. IT WAS HOT. Note to self, must design more shorts, diaphanous garments, lightweight smalls and possibly start a thong line. After two dreary English Summers I had laid on some heavier garments. Unfortunately, I could see people visibly wince as they fingered the dense cotton/merino cardigan stitch knits. So, its back to the drawing board on that one, then.

It seems to me that there is nothing worse than a hangover in extreme heat. So, unusually, I didn't have too many - this is, I think, a first for me. The bi-yearly Paris trips are normally an opportunity/excuse (delete as appropriate) for a lot evening fun. Perhaps the grown up nature of the Fashion East/CFE/BFC sponsored event brought out previously hidden sobriety. Although some of my fellow exhibitors gleefully suppressed any such tendencies. But, whichever way you cut it, the event was a very tangible indication of the growing clout of London Menswear. And it is great to feel that I, with these notable others, have contributed to this growing success."

Tim Soar on his warm experiences in Paris

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"Super excited that the BFC, CFE and Fashion East have collaborated this season to create the London Showrooms, selecting new and established Menswear and showcasing at Tranoi, Paris. We were lucky to have Tim Blanks hosting tea and cake from the Rose Bakery on the 1st day, which drew in an amazing crowd. Good to also have home support from Harvey Nichols, Asos, Matches, Sefton, Cruise, Start, Dover St Market and Harrods all popping in to see the collections.

I was also lucky to attend the Esquire event, showcasing 7 UK talents, including the lovely Domingo Rodriguez... and its always nice to have a glass of champagne and a chinwag with Colin McDowell.

Thanks to Anna Orsini, Barbara Grispini, Antonio Fiengo, Katie Bain and all at the BFC, Lulu Kennedy, Rori Thompson at Fashion East, Barbara Wilson at UKTI, Wendy Malem, Judith Tolley and all at CFE for making such a strong event. Long may it continue."

Carolyn Massey on her experiences at Tranoi

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London is without doubt a brilliant and exciting place for menswear and it is so important that designers have a space to sell from during the main buying season. Thanks to Massey's intrepid reporting it is so exciting to see London menswear reign supreme over Paris.

LCF BA Graduate Showcase: Minako Tsuda

LCF Graduate Minako Tsuda's gentlemanly bundle of braces and bow ties.

Back in March, the London College of Fashion unveiled a 'pop up' gallery space on Carnaby Street to help showcase its graduate work. So far the space has played host to a rolling programme of exhibitions and events and will continue to do just that throughout the summer. From footwear to illustration, photography to clothing and accessories the space is transformed to present new work every few weeks. This weekend I ventured down to the space to examine and marvel at the static showcase of the college's BA Footwear, Accessories and Clothing students. In the basement space I soon came across the work of Minako Tsuda. Tsuda's playful leather schoolboy rucksacks and gentlemanly document holders which hark back to a different, altogether more romantic sartorial era.

A look at Tsuda's inspirations.

The exhibition space provided the opportunity to flick through each students portfolio and I spent quite some time at Minako Tsuda's as it was a visual treat. Tsuda's graduation collection was inspired by 1930s to 1950s classic British men's shoes and the men wearing them. Inspiration came from everything from the shape of the heels to design details including hooks with strings and the seams of a cricket ball. As a result the collection whimsically looks back at ol' England. Even when times were tough there were a good number of men who loved dressing well and looking good.

Tsuda's decidedly English inspirations

As I longingly stroked Tsudo's leather creations in the basement of the exhibition space I was instantly transported back in time, surrounded by a gathering of preppy dandies from the mid twentieth century. If this is difficult for you to imagine, the graduate has thankfully shot a look book that mirrors the association of my mind quite wonderfully...

It is clear that Tsudo has a passion to create accessories that are playful and quirky, not very serious, just like her own personality. The talented graduate believes that all of her found and imagined characters appear in her finished designs. She loves to see people smile with her designs and prescribes to the belief that dressing each morning should not be a chore or a bore. I for one agree and certainly had a smile of my face as I stroked her designs.

Finding Forgotten Future

In the space of a few hours I learned about the exciting existence of a London label that I had no idea about, not once but twice. My first decent exposure to Forgotten Future was during a quick breakfast glance at oki-ni. As I gulped down my Crunchy Nut (other less tasty cereals are available) my initial intention might have been to 'ooh' and 'arrrgh' over the further reductions in the ever so tempting sale but I spent the entire bowl full and more finding all about this recently launched label thanks to an in depth interview feature with the man behind the label, Richard Dawson.

Dawson grew up in Warwickshire and moved to London in the mid 90s to study Menswear at Central Saint Martins where he was later awarded a much coveted bursary by MA course leader Louise Wilson. He graduated from the MA course in 2001 with a distinction and has since worked extensively in the industry as both a textiles designer and menswear designer for various brands. In summer 2009, Dawson thankfully decided to set up his own menswear label. Forgotten Future was born.

“I wanted to work for myself, designing product that I passionately believe in, creating investment clothes that a man will have in his wardrobe for years”.
Richard Dawson speaking to oki-ni

Forgotten Future gives a great deal of wearer freedom. This cream patchwork shirt has a detachable zip detail above the elbow for alternate wear. (Available at oki-ni).

The AW10 collection is influenced by an eclectic mix of inspirations, from Eton to No Wave to Constructivism. Initially, inspiration came from his books. One charity shop find, ‘Eton Schoolboys', in particular. The book contained a number of images which depict quite mature clothes on really young men. There is a concentration on tweed, soft tailoring and even has a whole page on Aran knits. It became a great reference regarding the soft tailoring and fabrics. The second hand finds did not stop there...

"I found this piece of vintage patchwork on Portobello one Friday. It was for sale for something crazy like £1.50 from an old lady with loads of old fabric, I really fell in love with it and thought I'd get lots of ideas from the whole cubist pattern."

Richard Dawsom speaking to oki-ni

This find really helped inspire where he could take these shapes in a wearable way and is heavily referenced throughout the collection. The colour palette for A/W came from another vintage find. A vintage Missoni Sportswear piece. It was a fortunate secondhand shop find and he used the shape as a basis for a number of the knitwear pieces. Vintage is certainly something Dawson constantly keeps an eye for when he's out and about across London and beyond. For Dawson, Portobello Market is the best place to find forgotten treasure but he often pops in to charity shops whenever he can.

Another patchwork top, this time the piece is reversible. I love the contrast between the matt and shine options. (Available at oki-ni)

Silhouette and proportional play are key to Forgotten Future's aesthetic along with a high degree of workmanship, most of which manifests in reinventions of the patchwork technique. The AW10 collection expresses a sartorial nonchalance that I just love. Having briefly acquainted myself with the label, designer and terrifically tempting oki-ni offering I set off for Stitch. I soon stumbled across the labels SS11 rail and inspiration wall. For SS11 influences include vintage sportswear, utility style and patterns found in wood grain and marble. As the photographs contained in 'Eton Schoolboys' inspired Dawson for AW10, another vintage book find depicting post war tailoring and outerwear influenced the new season. Thanks to Dawson's well set out inspiration wall I was able to see which images inspired him and could see how these influences evolved in to the finished garments. This type of visual treat really feeds my inquisitive nature and helps to see the collections in a new, brighter and altogether more understanding light...

This photo album of post war Britain really inspired Dawson for SS11.

The tailoring and outerwear was of particular interest.

In addition to the inspiring imaginary, the wall contained pages from Dawson's sketchbook. It was amazing to see how each image evolved in to the finished garment.

The short shorts inspired by 1950s scouts.

The evolution of the hunter jacket.

The constructivist themes of the AW10 collection continues in softer hues of grey, shell pink and neutrals offset with military khaki and a shot of bright red. Patchwork techniques also reappear, this time combined with vintage sportswear in asymmetric formations that help bring a modern touch to the vintage inspired collection. New influences for the season include details and silhouettes from post war tailoring and outerwear. Broader proportions and the hand me down air of the demob generation can be seen in oversized casual jackets and tops. Pleat front trousers are softly tapered and utility styled with panelling enabling extra volume in shirts. Marble and marquetry patterning inspire the seasons key graphic printed and are featured on lightweight jersey tops. As with the AW10 colection, a number of the garments are reversible enabling two looks in one. A standout blazer in an eye catching metallic linen reverses to a subtler wardrobe classic in forest green.

Hunter jacket, striped vest and patchwork shorts.

The rail for SS11.

Having had the opportunity to talk through the label with Dawson, it is quite clear that is aimed at today's fashion pioneers. A desire for quality and a high degree of craftsmanship are key to the labels sartorial approach. The philosophy is to create wardrobe staples that transcend trend by promoting originality and individualism. After discovering and rediscovering Forgotten Future in the space of a few hours it will long live in my memory.

In Stitches

In addition to the focus honed in on the runways of Milan and Paris in recent weeks, attention has flickered to the various trade shows across Europe and beyond as buyers and press get first sight of the SS11 offerings from old favourites and new discoveries alike. Of course I was fortunate enough to explore the sartorial Disneyland of menswear trade shows in Pitti Uomo but I have still looked longingly at the blog coverage of Capsule, Tranoi (more on this shortly) and Rendezvous. As my peers paw the latest collection on the continent I snatched the opportunity to examine and talk through the SS11 collections of a few leading British designers at Stitch.

Located right by the Thames in Old Billingsgate Market Stitch is the only dedicated menswear and accessories tradeshow in the UK. How could I resist sneaking a peek at the new collections from a few of my favourite designers in Carolyn Massey, Lou Dalton, Omar Kashoura and Satyenkumar alongside the likes of DS Dundee, Morgan Allen Oliver and DavidDavid? A number of the designers and brands warrant an extended, individual feature and I'll get to work on this shortly but today I'm just too excited to wait and have to share a few images with you...

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Given our well documented sartorial love affair with Carolyn Massey, her attendance at the trade show was the driving reason for my attendance. Expectations were mighty high but this collection did not disappoint. For SS11, Massey has continued on the successes of recent seasons (SS110 in particular) while experimenting with a rich season friendly colour palette. These are clothes you and I will want to wear. Many of the garments have an aged and lived in look which is something that I really love. This comes from Massey's interest of handing down garments from generation to generation. In addition to the delicate detailing and beautiful craftsmanship we have come to expect from the designer, this season sees Massey continue to evolve her accessories with a selection of braided accessories (including necklaces for whistles) and stunning box bags which will undoubtedly create a fantastic silhouette once worn.

The Massey mannequin. The cut and colour of these shorts is spot on for the warmer months.

A look at the rail in all its glory. I love the colour palette!

A look at Massey's inspiration wall.

The Massey family crest sits alongside the designer's invite to 10 Downing Street.

Workwear inspired outerwear sits alongside eye catching knits and braided accessories

The design is inspired by a blown up image of Herringbone.

The ideal way to keep your trousers up when the sun shines.

This oversized toolbox/doctors bag hybrid is now my dream weekend bag.

Two box bags combine to form an amazing backpack. It will undoubtedly create a fantastic silhouette once worn
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Lou Dalton narrowly missed out on a catwalk schedule spot last season but Fashion East stepped in and asked her to present the collection alongside their Menswear Installations. The runways loss was our gain because the presentation format allowed far greater opportunity to study the designs up close and soon converted this fashion blogger to her design aesthetic. For SS11, Dalton has continued to practice and hone her signature of rebellious English sportswear with a strong sense of detail. Here the seams are exposed and frayed to wonderful effect.

Dalton's layered mannequin.

I loved this lightweight relaxed knit.

Detail rich tailoring.

Rebellious tailored sportswear

Just look at the finish. Exposed seams.

These turn up use an African textile lining.

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Both of us were left wide eyed and open jawed as Omar Kashoura's bearded models casually and confidently paraded themselves around the bar area in their adaptable AW10 city finery back in February. Kashoura has once again drawn inspiration from his own city lifestyle to create a collection designed for every day survival in a tough urban environment. He revisits the idea of outfitting the modern gentleman and has created a collection that adapts with the demanding lifestyle of the wearer given the current economic downturn. Taking heart from the make do and can do attitudes of WWII era Britain, Kashoura has created a collection of basics that every man needs in his wardrobe. This is city sartorialism for the self sufficient man...

A wardrobe crammed with wearable yet interesting basics

The inspiration wall...Patrick Grant sits alongside a glamour on a show string message.

The key themes of the collection. City sartorialism for the self sufficient man.

Knitwear and jerseys that are achingly to be touched.

The tailored pieces are breathtaking.

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Satyenkumar never fails to deliver a collection that combines timeless tailoring with modern hybrid classics. SS11 is no exception. Satyen is a designer who has always quietly gone about his business of creating quality tailored causal wear for us modern eccentric English playboys, almost going unnoticed at times. Regular readers will remember that I fell head over heels for the true celebration of colour that was his 'Reflection through a lens collection' for SS10 and is great to the talented designer continue this theme for the new season. Once again this collection is a kaleidoscopic travel through a lens. Colour blocking and soon to be revealed prints inspired by the jungle. There is very little khaki or traditional camouflage on show, instead Satyen has designed a collection to enable the wearer to stand out. Anyone hoping to bathe in the sun on a beach somewhere next summer would surely love this collection of colourful, lightweight tailoring.

Satyenkumar's colourful rail.

The colour rich inspiration wall.

A peek at the soon to be revealed print for the season.

Colour, colour everywhere.

Satyen is a master at finding the softest fabrics.

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Now in its second season, Stitch is still far from becoming a disneyland-esque tradeshow but it is evolving to become the type of trade show London menswear deserves. The focus is on making it a must attend trade show which will help put the UK firmly on the map within the international menswear calender. London is without doubt a brilliant and exciting place for menswear and it is so important that designers have a space to sell from during the main men's buying season. With such an array of talent taking part this season I'm quite sure it will gain the momentum to continue to move forward.