Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis SS12

In recent weeks we have noted that in the tumultuous seas of spurious, pointless and head scratchily strange collaborations, a creative coming together that works on more than a mere press or cash cow perspective are most rare. Our eyes often glaze over as the conveyor belt of releases trundles on but when we do encounter a collaboration that makes perfect sense, we leap to attention. Since its debut for SS10, Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis has always delivered. The High Street just got that bit more interesting. Now, you should recall how we fell for the charms of the debut thirty piece capsule collection back in January 2010. It was a celebration of the very best of authentic British design whilst providing an enticingly complete everyday wardrobe, encompassing everything from jackets to shoes. It was, not surprisingly, extremely well received and has only grown in subsequent seasons. Over the last two years, Casely-Hayford and John Lewis have worked hard to build upon this concept of collaboration with the finest manufacturers to create a a highly considered range of future classic designs for contemporary men who appreciate, design, quality and attention to detail. In essence this is a collaboration that brings seemingly specialist products to a wider audience without losing any of the integrity that make their products special. Having established a strong following through exclusive collaborations with some of the UK’s finest heritage manufacturers, Casely-Hayford continues to celebrate craftsmanship and home grown British manufacturing by joining forces with a new collaborator (but long known to us), British Outerwear manufacturer, Cooper and Stollbrand.

Whilst last season’s collection took influence from Eric Newby’s seminal travel book, A Walk in the Hindu Khush, Casely-Hayford’s SS12 offering looks to one of the twentieth century’s greatest explorers, the British adventurer Wilfred Thesiger. Born in Ethiopia, educated at Eton and Oxford, he fought with the SAS and went on to become one of the great travel writers of the last century. Never content with the luxury of the known he was always looking over the next hill, mountain or desert horizon. He was every inch the English gentleman exploring and understanding alien lands. Throughout, the collection embodies Thesiger’s rugged yet easy going spirit with informal tailored jackets, tough washed cottons and relaxed summer knits...

“With a more relaxed attitude this season, jackets are cut with less structure, shoulders are softer, body shapes are slightly looser, and our tailored jackets have been constructed with lightweight materials– creating the ideal weekend wardrobe. The collection has been coordinated with the feeling of an international Englishman in mind and as always, the pieces are simple but never basic.” 

Joe Casely-Hayford on the collection

Orde Ventile Mac in collaboration with respected British outerwear manufacturer, Cooper and Stollbrand.  A technical summer macintosh that comes with heat sealed internal seams for increased water resistance and contrast leather pocket fastening detailing.

This puppytooth blazer from is a single-breasted design that's cut using traditional Savile Row methods.


A fusion of two great British design icons (the classic Barbour jacket and the original naval Duffle coat) the Chilworth coat has been developed as part of the successful collaboration with Barbour.

The double-breasted Amara Pique Blazer is an enticing blend of smart and casual. A laid back peaked lapel jacket with bluffed on patch pockets (applied without visible stitching) and made from fine two fold Italian shirt weight cotton, it can be worn either as part of a suit or a semi-formal blazer.

A hardy, practical jacket made in tough new waxed cotton which takes its colouring from the natural tones of the desert. In contrast to its hardy exterior, the Bedu jacket features a fun and vibrant contrast under collar and is half lined in an African influenced Liberty print - reflecting Casely-Hayford’s seasonal theme.

Collaborating with the famous British emporium for another season, the Samuli Jungle shirt takes its print from the Liberty archive.

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Following initial success, it is great to see that Casely-Hayford and John Lewis have been able to consistently evolve the collaboration to offer some of the finest collections available on the High Street whilst shining the spotlight on the British sartorialism, craftsmanship and manufacture.

Details... Seeing stars

In anticipation for the latest fruits from the Goodhood x R. Newbold collaboration drop in store, I couldn't resist finally picking up one of the highlight pieces from AW11. Here's a closer look at the military chinos with engineered star prints.

Loewe's Reporter

On a day that I am reluctant to do anything but lounge around the flat in my pyjamas, it is a little absurd to post about a reporter bag. There will be no acts of Lois Lane style journalism today. However, in the not too distant past I do recall a time in which I was not comatosed through this combination of over indulgence and classic film marathon which found me reporting on Stockholm Fashion Week for Bon. As I hopped from show to presentation to show again with film crew in tow my Swedish design investigation was aided by a borrowed beauty. A double pocket reporter bag by Loewe... 

Suit by Comme des Garçons Ganryu, silk shirt by Tim Soar, hi tops by Lanvin, 

pyramid stud by Bunney and reporter bag by Loewe.

Now, regular readers will know that I normally transport my blogging paraphernalia (camera, dictaphone and notebook etc) in one of my many backpacks but for this trip I was able to road test a nappa leather satchel. My long standing allegiance with rucksacks was forgotten the moment my fingers touched its butter soft body. I'm fickle with luggage.

What makes Loewe's leather so special? Well, Spain is internationally renowned for the quality of its lambskin and only the finest hides find themselves at Loewe. "Cordero entrefino español" refers to lambs bred in the cool heights of the Spanish Pyrenees. Ultrasoft, organically-dyed skins of only 0.7 mm in thickness are achieved by a unique combination of painstaking hand-buffing followed by a final polishing with glass cylinders. Yet even after all this, Loewe’s leather experts accept just three per cent of the leather produced. As a result, Loewe's napa has an unrivalled softness, suppleness and sheen. Everything that Loewe does comes back to the senses. I was seduced by its touch for the entire trip...

A closer look at my (working) holiday romance

Weekend Reading... Fourth & Main

With it being Easter Sunday we all need something to occupy our mind with something other than the excessive consumption of chocolate shaped in all manner of forms and freshly toasted hot crossed buns. This morning I turned to a press day find, Fourth & Main for sustenance. To aid introductions of their focused debut menswear collection of wardrobe classics that take root in London's creative culture, editor and creative director James Wright alongside publisher Nikhil Aqwalkpalkar celebrate the youthful exuberance of those who populate it the capital's pool of talent with a delightful publication. 

"The Journal exists to highlight young artistic talent in whatever form it occurs and in as clean and pure a fashion as possible; the overall design aesthetic providing a back light for the talent within," James Wright explains in his editor's letter. Over the course of its one hundred and twenty five pages, the reader is treated to a range as topics as diverse as talking with the rising star of Captain America to profiling the work of fourteen-nineteen to exploring the future of British film. Along the way we are of course offered glimpses of the menswear collection itself but it is the stories and creatives themselves who take centre stage... 

Snapshots of the highlights inside including Henry LLoyd-Hughes, Quentin Jones, fourteen-nineteen and ending with the collection stories.

So many fashion brands are now dipping their toe in the content creation waters but very few are as successful at getting wet as Fourth & Main have been on this first attempt. Released bi-annually in print and digital form, the Journal will be stocked in a focused range of galleries, bookshops and theatres that each reflect the spirit and personality of the project. It is certainly one to seek out and read.

Details... Patchwork craft

On the day they launched their highly anticipated online store we took Tommy Ton for a perusal of Anthem's beautiful Calvert Avenue store. As mentioned previously, Anthem sources well crafted products from all over the world to provide something of a unique experience for discerning menswear shoppers. In a store full of discovery it didn't take Ton too long to fall for the charms of Kaptial's Boro Western Shirt. Quality, artful and precise. I couldn't resist taking a detail shot before he bought it.

Tim Coppens SS12

With the depth of design talent commanding our attention in this capital of ours you'll have to forgive our hypnotic beat of the London menswear drum. However, despite our undeniable focus on the local, we do cast the blogging net wide from time to time and today we would like to take our time over Tim Coppens. We are certainly not the first, nor will we be the last to mention the name that has echoed its way across the Atlantic and beyond for the few months. Fantastic Man described him as "one of the most interesting new menswear designers in New York" whilst The Dandy Project recently gushed that "a surge of enthusiasm now surrounds this designer who brings the hope of Belgian progressiveness to New York’s fatigued menswear scene." From critics to buyers to hopeful followers alike, the industry is united by its excitement for Coppens' minimal yet at times unexpected exploration of menswear staples. 

Born in Belgium, Coppens graduated from the internationally acclaimed Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 1998. Resisting temptation to launch his own line he opted to further hone his talent and knowledge of the industry and most notably became senior designer for Adidas. Most recently, the design talent served as design director for RLX from 2008 until last year when he decided to launch his eponymous label. "Even though I enjoyed working for companies such as Ralph Lauren, my ambition has always been to venture out on my own and to be able to express my creativity in personal collections," types the designer as his collection lands in LN-CC (in addition to an enviable selection of the finest stores across the globe). The response to the presentation of his debut collection in New York last season was immediate and contagiously spread throughout the industry. Initially Barneys picked up the designs exclusively but the second season saw the addition Isetan in Tokyo, Dover Street Market and LN-CC here in London. In just two quick seasons, the emerging strong signature is Coppen's interest in athleticism and deft use of technical fabrics. Now, as the former design director of Ralph Lauren's active wear label, RLX, that's not surprising but under his own name, the design is relaxed, the proportions played with and the rigorous structure of classical menswear explored to express a marvellously modern sartorial vision of masculinity.

"For RLX, I directed womenswear as well as men's. The line started off as really focused on sports but gradually grew more into a complete modern collection with its own style within Ralph Lauren. It’s different from what I do now because the majority of my work for Ralph Lauren had a function created by the use of new fabrics or construction, seaming etc… My own work is much more about using these elements in a way that I feel benefits the design aesthetics not necessary the performance… There is a lot more of my world expressed in the collection. The story I build…. coming from art music, subcultures, film. These references and attitudes inspire me every day and have a substantial role."

Coppens on his experience at RLX and the new beginning with his own label. 

For SS12, Coppens was drawn in to Jacques Audiard's gripping French thriller 'Un Prophète' and took sartorial inspiration from the everyday wardrobe worn by Tahar Rahim in his role of a young French-Maghreb who climbs the gangster career ladder. Coppens reinterprets the basic everyday style portrayed in “Un Prophète” by leveraging his technical inspired background into classic designer pieces with great attention to material choice and innovative tailoring. "The inspiration came from Tahar Rahim, in particular his roots and the typical ban lieu style… grey sweatshirt, leather bomber jacket trackpant…He has a very stylish flow with some arrogance mixed in." The result is classic designer pieces with an enticing mix of the basic everyday style of the film with technical inspired details, unusual material choices and innovative tailoring. Throughout, Coppens takes classic items of menswear, including Varsity, Field and Biker Jackets, and manages to make them appear new. Coppens himself makes the process sound simple by typing, "I take what I know and fuse it with those iconic pieces… It’s a lot about balance and not taking away or adding too much…" he adds. 

"I have always liked the varsity jacket as a style. When I was in high school it wasn't as available in Belgium as it is here in the US. It was not a typical piece to wear but I remember I bought my first one from Vision Street Wear in a skate shop in Oostende. I like the linen bomber jacket a lot - It's easy but has enough details to make it special without overdoing it.. And the mix of different materials make it special. But my favourite is the brown suede blouson with neoprene cuffs. The washed suede is super light but still compact enough to keep a structured feel." 

Coppens talks through his favourite pieces.

With introductions made and designs hinted at, it really is time for me to share the collection with you. Here, we supplement Coppens' look book with a selection of detail shots taken by LN-CC's Andy Malone exclusively for us...

Lookbook courtesy of Tim Coppens and details shots by LN-CC's Andy Malone

With such a startling ascent, the last twelve months must feel like an absolute blur for Tim Coppens, a dream. However, despite buyers eager to snap up his designs and critics running low on superlatives to describe them, Coppens himself remains refreshingly grounded. "My focus is to build a strong identity with the menswear collection first and then we will see if other categories or maybe womenswear are interesting to explore." No doubt we are all eager to follow Coppens' deft and well executed lead.

In the ring with Ally Capellino

As disorientated industry folk intricately weave their way across town and back, leaving well thumbed rails, lipstick stained Prosecco glasses and well gnawed ham and cheese platters in their wake, it can only be Press Day season. Despite not having the time to explore as many as I would normally venture to, this season's conveyor belt of well stocked rails and air kisses has left me day dreaming about my favourite season, Autumn. As PRs open their doors and serve up their roster of AW12 talent, it gives us another excuse to take a closer look at a few of our favourite collections whilst making a few discoveries along the way. One such discovery was Ally Capellino's well crafted celebration of the upcoming arrival of the Olympic circus with a limited edition boxing bag. 

Ally Capellino have been based in Londonʼs East end for over thirty years and the Olympics have spurred a naive curiosity to better understand boxing and how the sport touches lives within their neighbourhood. Inspired by the areas links with the sport, the sights, sounds and smells of the gym, the result is a stunning bag full of considered detail...

Now, I'm a lover not a fighter but this is worth getting in the for...

The bag will be available exclusively at Liberty and in Ally Capellino stores from July 2012. A book of photographs by Alex Sturrock taken at boxing gyms including the Hackney boxing academy and the Lynn ABC has also been published to coincide with the launch. The result is an oversized publication, incorporating a series of accompanying texts which aim to give some insight into the characters in the images with all proceeds going to boxing charities including London Ex-Boxers. The book will be limited to an edition of 1,500 and will launch on the 4th July. Put em up.

AW12 Print Picks: Agi&Sam

Thanks to the support and sponsorship of Topman and Fashion East, MAN has helped created a whole new momentum in the London menswear scene. With each season it evolves in profile and importance. The SS12 lineup marked something of an energised beginning that was continued on for AW12 with Astrid Andersen and Agi&Sam joining Shaun Samson for a mouth watering show. The season marked Agi&Sam's first ever catwalk show and the talented pair dazzled under the spotlight. Building on the success of the previous two seasons as part of the Fashion East MAN installations, the design duo brought their vivid prints, eye for colour and particular sense of humour to the Royal Opera House show space. Now that the initial excitement of the day itself has died down, I wanted to take a closer look at the showcase of the well tailored plethora of prints.

Despite the name being something of a mouthful, 'Darwin's Theory of Why The Chicken Crossed The Road,' the tale behind the collection itself is a simple one. The colourful pair have travelled to the future just before the Apocalypse in fact, where the last men alive on Earth are replicating the finest cloths of the past using what they have at their disposal, namely recycling fabrics from plastics. The pair worked with Greenpac to produce fabric made entirely from plastic bottles. These polyester fabrics have been woven in a precise way to expertly replicate natural fabrics including cotton drill and jersey. Given the green credentials of the collection you might be forgiven for thinking that the collection a little dull but come on, we're talking about Agi&Sam here. Thanks to their penchant for clashing and layering print upon print, the design duo once again opened my mind to print possibilities. With their strong emphasis on entirely bespoke print and humour, they believe that fashion should never been taken too seriously and if their latest collection doesn't provoke a wry smile...well... there must be something wrong with you.

Throughout, Agi&Sam have expertly engineered their own print variations of vividly coloured Linton tweeds and fine traditional tartans whilst inspiration comes from a warm nostalgia for M.C Escher and Stanley Kubrick. The dizzying display includes a variety of tessellating repeats, woven fabrics, tweeds tartans, chickens and ducks which prompt the viewer to ask the age-old question; 'Which came first, the chicken or the egg?" As you ponder this causality dilemma, lets take a closer look at just a few prints picks with the help of Little Doodles beautiful illustrations alongside our own catwalk details shots...

Beautiful illustrations by Little Doodles alongside our own catwalk and detail shots. 

"We don't believe hat fashion should be taken too seriously," say the designers but despite their smile inducing designs this is a collection that should be taken seriously. Always aiming to be revolutionary as well as humorous in their approach to menswear, Agi&Sam once again experimented heavily with texture and colour. Stretching the boundaries of textiles, and printing whilst pushing me to consider unexpected print combinations. As colourful and dazzling the collection certainly is, I'm most excited by the design duo's continued evolution and cannot wait to see what they serve up next.