Delving in to Antwerp with Delvaux

I saw so much during my weekend jaunt to Antwerp and apologise for not being able to blog about my experiences as fast as I wanted to but it was a hectic few days with limited blogging time (I know...excuses, excuses). Though the city might be be small in size, there is just so much to see in this beautiful city. As I am back in London now, it makes more sense to start at the end of my travels and work my way back, discussing the real highlights of a trip which was packed full of them. First up...a real suprise for me!

One of the last places we visited was the city's fashion museum, MoMu. Susie was desperate to see the Delvaux exhibition but I have to confess that I was less than keen. I thought the exhibition would be a showcase of luxurious handbags and little else but I'm so pleased we went because I was enthralled by the stylistic evolution of the house's output whilst seeing the often unseen side of the business, the skills of the designers and the artisans that represent the core of the company's values. A year older than the Belgian nation itself, Delvaux can claim to be the most Belgian of all luxury houses. The exhibition follows Delvaux from the maunfacture of travel goods for the local nobility in the nineteenth century, through the rise of the modern handbag in the twentieth century, to the company's vision of a new kind of elegance under its artistic director Veronique Branquinho. The creative process behind each bag has changed very little in the last sixty years, all products are still made by hand, the conpany is still in th family hands and Delvaux's output remains small but exclusive.

The travelling by train space...

Each mode of transport brought its own requirements for the baggage manufacture. founded in an era of when travel was largely horse drawn the company has survived through the revolutions and wars, and adapted to the requirements of ocean liners and railways, to bicycles, cars and jets. It is how the luxury house adapted its offering to the changing world around it which interested most whilst walking through the well curated exhibition space. Train travel assisted the rise of the modern business traveller, for whom Delvaux produced not just attache cases and document wallets, but overnight bags, equipment cases and even bespoke display trunks for travelling salesman.

The Newspaper Bag. Bruno Pieters for Delvaux, AW09-09.

I recently read about Monocle’s latest collaborative effort involves Belgian luxury brand Delvaux. Known for their leather goods, the Newspaper Bag features a woven Toile de Cuir exterior and a Basane Leather liner. The bag is sized appropriately for A4-sized documents and a laptop and I want one!

Monocle x Delvaux Newspaper Bag, available from Monocle

Besides leather-clad maps and holders for the driver's licence and Michelin guides, Delvaux provided the 1950s tourist motorist with gentleman's bags. This bags were capable of holding everything required for that perfect Kodak moment, with of course compartments for camera, pipe, postcards and even a handheld cine camera.

The cruise luggage of my dreams.

For those travelling in grand style on the ocean liners leaving Antwerp, luggage had to be capacious and extremely resistant both to impact and to damp. Delvaux certainly offered beautiful luggage which protected the cruise-wear finery of those first class travellers aboard. This selection of cases inspired the inner traveller in me, oh to travel the seas for months on end...oh, I can but dream.

Celebrating the great Surrealist, Magritte.

In Belgium, surrealism is not part of some wild, exotic dream scape but rather it infuses the everyday. This selection of bags celebrated Belgium's most famous and my favourite surrealist, Rene Magritte's 100rd Birthday and were released in 1998.

Leather working tools belonging to Bernard Gombert.

Delvaux bags are produced by a team of forty five craftsman in the atelier in Brussels and a further sixty working from a dedicated atelier in France. Each bag is immensely complex and such craft goes in to each one. One of the exhibition spaces evokes the atmosphere of the atelier and the leather store room at the Arsenal and focuses on the production of the Brilliant. The leather working tools in the exhibition belong to Bernard Gombert, head of Delvaux's technical department and I spent a good ten minutes staring at them, imagining how each instrument is used to create one of the famous bags. The exhibition was a great way to spend the final hour of my time in Antwerp. The exhibition runs until 21st February 2010 and is well worth the visit even if you aren't the worlds biggest handbag enthusiast like me!

Weekend escape to Antwerp

Image from Scoute

During the height of the recent fashion week craziness we received an email informing us that we had been invited to be part of an exciting weekend trip to Antwerp. We were told that the weekend would consist of a Fashion Treasure Hunt themed event around the beautiful and historic city of Antwerp. Intrigued, the carrot of a weekend escape from London was most welcome and much needed and it saw me through that busy time. The only downside was that only one of us could go. Were we to fight over it to the death? The very idea of this made me more than a little nervous because EJ is a lot stronger and scarier than I am...Thankfully, it wasn't quite as brutal or as bloody as it might have been. As Eliza had already planned her trip to Barcelona (which she arrived back from yesterday evening) she stepped aside and let me take the trip. I'm bummed that she can't come but have promised to take lots of photos and will constantly update her on my progress.

Ever since the Antwerp Six became a sensation in the eighties, the city has produced design talent from its Royal Academy of Arts year after year. This designer conveyor belt provides unique shopping opportunities and a plentiful stock of cutting edge fashion design which I intend to take full advantage of. Some of you might remember that I visited the city back in April but the sole purpose of the visit then was to take advantage of the infamous designer stock sales. It will be nice to revisit Antwerp and really explore what the city has to offer.

So, this weekend I will take my place alongside eight other bloggers from the UK, France and the Netherlands to discover fashionable Antwerp. The other bloggers invited include, Be Frassy, the Cherry Blossom Girl, Fad Tony, Le Mechante, Miss Glitzy, Renee Sturme, This Chick's Got Style and Susie! I only found out Susie had been invited as well after I had agreed to go because over the last few weeks I have barely seen her! If you aren't familiar with the other bloggers the recently launched Shopping in Antwerp site has a little bio on each of us, just click on The Hunt to view them. If you are in Antwerp, you might bump into us running around like crazy people. If not, you can follow our adventures online, if you have any recommendations please drop me a comment below and I will investigate them.

Bowing before the feet of the Afro Punks

Casely-Hayford's Kings of the Kings Land.

Soon after the day itself I mentioned, that nothing represented the diversity of menswear design talent in the capital more than Fashion East's Menswear installations. As I stalked through room after room and looked in each nook and cranny I entountered many reasons to be excited. One of the real highlights was Casely-Hayford's collection entitled Kings of the Kings Land. For SS10 the design duo took inspiration from the Kingland Road area of London where their studio is based. A seemingly unique and uncoventional corner of the city where original EastEnders co-exist with the more recently landed public school boys. This incongruous social mix conjures up a rich sartorial vocabulary which the Casely-Hayford's have used to create a new English style.

A first look at Casely-Hayford's SS10 shoes...I want them all!

Inspired by the raw energy of Kingsland Road, the collection represents a new style tribe, the Afro Punk. One of the main recurring themes of the Casely-Hayford brand is the fusion of classic, English sartorialism and British anarchy. In previous collections this manifested itself in a wonderful balance of formal tailoring and sportswear but for SS10, instead relaxed tailoring sits extremely well with tribal, handcrafted ornate embellishment. This was no more apparent than in the footwear. I left the menswear day inspired by what I had seen but was impatient to learn more about the collection and in particular the shoes...my wait is now over as the chaps sent through their SS10 accessories look book this evening.

The Quilted Albert slipper

The quilted Albert slipper is something of Casely-Hayford signature piece (00o00 was certainly excited back in May) and echoes the brand's philosophy perfectly. The Albert is the generic name given to these slippers which were made famous by Queen Victoria's husband Prince Albert.

The Allotment Creeper

The statement shoe of this season, the "Allotment Creeper", combines elements from traditional English sandals worn by allotment keepers between the 30's and 60's with the Classic Brothel Creeper. The wonderfully named, brothel creeper was originally worn during the second world war in the north African desert by the English army. When the troops returned to England, the shoes were adopted by the dominant youth cult of the time - Teddy boys and then at a later stage punks. Casely-Hayford have evolved this style symbol to represent the new youth cult and subculture of their Spring Summer 10 collection - "Afro punks". The fusion of punk subculture with traditional sandals worn by English gardeners reflects the brand DNA of English sartorialism and British anarchy.

The Ottoman

Influenced by Turkish embroidery seen on East London's Kingsland Road, the Casely-Hayford "Ottoman" combines the delicacy of Turkish embroidery with the sturdiness of a Goodyear Welt to create an elegant summer shoe which retains a rigid masculine form. This style is based on the classic English brogue, but with the ornate scroll work of Ottoman embroidery and the unstained Sole unit, the English classic is given a new context and meaning.

If I'm honest I don't think anyone would consider me to be an afro punk...but...I want to atleast wear their shoes...It is time to bow before the feet of the Kings of Kings Land.

Time to have a little fun each morning

After encountering the below Sartorialist shot of Patrick Grant sitting front row awaiting the Jonathon Saunders show I was forced to turn to twitter like an excited little school girl. I'm somewhat embarrassed to admit here that I asked "Hands up if you have a (man) crush on Patrick Grant..." Of course many people responded by virtually raising their hands. It seems, a number of people (male and female) swoon at the mere mention of the man's name but as I step over the piles of fainted bodies who took the swooning that bit too far, I ask myself what it is that I admire about him.

Patrick Grant, shot by the Sartorialist

I have huge respect for what he has achieved since becoming the youngest guv'nor on Savile Row. He is the man behind the resurgence of the 187 year old Savile Row firm of tailors, Norton & Sons and has since relaunched the storied house of E. Tautz as a ready-to-wear collection to much, deserved acclaim. Having dressed the pre war elite, from Churchill to Cary Grant, it is a label rooted in history and the past seamlessly runs through the collections. E. Tautz championed the notion of dressing properly and of men taking pride in what they wear. It adheres to the age old belief that how you dress reflects your respect for the event and for your host. Edward VII, a major inspiration for the first two offerings, said it best: "Be always well and suitably dressed for every conceivable occasion." Having met Patrick Grant a number of times now and having seen the latest flurry of street style shots, both on the Sartorialist and this cheeky gem from StreetStyle Aesthetic, it is clear that he follows this mantra whilst having fun with it.

Playful tailoring, E. Tautz SS10

"I think men have lost sight of how much fun it is to be well dressed. It’s actually really fun to spend a little bit of time every morning putting your clothes on, picking tie, picking a handkerchief, choosing a shirt from your wardrobe, picking a jacket and a pair of trousers and putting it all together and feeling great in your wardrobe. It’s really a lovely thing to do each day." Patrick Grant, from an interview with SwipeLife.

I was alarmed by the number of comments below the Sartorialist image which described the ensemble as all too much, focusing on the pocket square in particular. The comments on the post combined with just a quick glance out of the window suggests that a lot of people do not experience the pleasure of dressing anymore. It is such a shame. They’ll put on a pair of jeans and a white shirt and will look perfectly good but won’t feel special about what they’re wearing. During menswear day I made the stroll up to the E. Tautz presentation and I'm glad I did. Not only did I get my first bit of food for the day, a piece of shortbread washed down with a cup of tea but I was able to view the playful Quentin Jones video whilst admiring the SS10 collection all over again. The label offers simple tailoring with a little something extra, a bit of pomp, colour, a sense of humour. It is this little extra which makes E. Tautz special.

In the interview with SwipeLife Patrick continues, "It seems like men are almost embarrassed to be well-dressed. It feels like it’s too much, or you’ve tried too hard." I think it is about time that such a belief is quashed. What I love about the E. Tautz collections thus far and how Patrick Grant dresses personally is that both clearly prescribe to the belief that dressing each morning should not be a chore or a bore. It is time to have a little fun each morning.

Style Salvage Speaks to... CSM Student Nicomede Talavera

Nicomede Talavera is a Central Saint Martin’s BA Menswear Fashion Design student who has just embarked on his placement year. Surprisingly, Talavera has found time to complete a fourteen look capsule collection and along with the obvious creative talent it demonstrates has the business nous to promote his debut offering through the blogosphere. We were surprised and excited when we opened the speculative email from the young talent and just had to find out more about the menswear design student.

The debut capsule collection was inspired by photodynamic photography and futurism. Arturo and Anton Giulio Bragaglia’s 1911 portrait Searching and Slap was the initial source of inspiration, but continued research provided other outlets and the result is an impressive collection from a promising talent. At the moment, Talavera is interning with BLAAK in London but plans to work with other leading designers in New York and Paris before returning for his final year of studies next year. We caught up with the young designer to talk through his debut offering and to learn more about his experiences in the fashion world so far...

Nicomede Talavera's SS10 Capsule Collection contains mohair and waffle knits provide texture, while neoprene and nylon break away from tradition, offering diversity and the feel of movement.

SS: Describe the moment you realized you wanted to be a menswear designer?
Nicomede Talavera: I've always felt a connection to menswear being a guy because I obviously wear it day to day, so I felt more of a connection with it than with womenswear. There is major growth and possibilities available, yet still discipline. I've always liked to dress up and experiment with different styles and through this experimentation I think I found my love for menswear and its possibilities.

SS: If you could go back in time and experience any fashion moment, what would it be?
Nicomede Talavera: I don't know whether it can be cited as a 'fashion moment' but I think to go back to when we were cave men and women would be very inspiring! I would love to see the craftsmanship and their whole attitude towards clothes was completely different. I think that lots of inspiration could be drawn from their thriftiness, resourcefulness and make-do-and-mend way of living.

SS: What attracted you to CSM in the first place?
Nicomede Talavera: It would have to be mainly the history of successful students and creativity as well as the location and staff. When you walk though the corridors there is a real sense of the amazing things that have taken place there in the past, you do feel a part of history.

SS: The capsule collection has a futuristic sporty aesthetic and the fabrics used are representative of this, tyvek t shirts, nylon shirts, neoprene jackets and bottoms etc. Describe the capsule collection in your own words...
Nicomede Talavera: My key inspiration came from the works of Antonio Bragaglia and his futurism and photodynamism works. As well as the works of Mel Bochner, Larry Bell and Eva Hesse, culminating in a collection which I believe is innovative, fresh, textural, streamlined and wearable.

The accessories using human hair and bolts and neoprene hats.

SS: The accessories are amazing and complement the collection so well. You used quite unusual materials for them including, human hair and metal bolts along with rabbit fur and neoprene hats. What was your inspiration for the accessories and were the materials difficult to work with?
Nicomede Talavera: I've always wanted to learn other design aspect from accessories, shoe design and millinery. To create the hats I went on a one-week Millinery course in July at CSM, which was great because I learned the process from the very beginning to end. For the necklaces The human hair involved alot of hand stitching to attach the chain and create the tassel shapes. I decided to use hair because Antonio Bragaglia's work involves so much movement and I felt that this was a great way to add movement to the look as well as giving it an eerie quality which is also very present in Bragaglia's work. I wanted the hats to finish off the look by creating shadows on the face and creating a masculine yet questionable appearance.

SS: We love how you have created this fourteen look capsule collection and decided to gain awareness of your designs through contacting fashion blogs. Were you encouraged to do this at CSM or was this your idea? Do you read many blogs, which are your favourites?
Nicomede Talavera: My tutor wasn't actually aware of the collection until I emailed him the look book yesterday, so I kept the whole thing completely under wraps and spent the last three months working on it constantly! The reason I decided to go down the route of emailing fashion blogs was because I knew that blogs are becoming very popular and are an increasing way of people getting a quick fix of fashion news which is great. I visit blogs almost daily, my favourites at the moment would have to be The Fashionisto, Jak and Jil and Style Salvage. But to be honest I check loads so can't really choose a favourite!

SS: So far, what has been the best thing about your course? And the worst?
Nicomede Talavera: I think the best would be that we have a lot of varied and sponsored projects. From a digital print project with Paul Smith where we had to design our own floral design. A knitwear project which was a collaboration with Fashion Design Knitwear students and was lectured by CSM Menswear graduate Henrik Vibskov. Not forgetting, the tailoring project which was inspired by Italian cinema and sponsored by Italian fabric companies who supplied us with amazing suiting fabrics/linings/shirting. I think the worst element would be the looming move from the Charing Cross campus to the new Kings Cross campus in 2011. The campus has a great atmosphere and will be a shame to lose it!

SS: What advice would you give a prospective menswear fashion student?
Nicomede Talavera: Work hard! I don't think new students should underestimate how hard it actually is, you need to make sacrifices and put your heart into every project and thing you do. There is a lot of sleepless nights! But there is always a great buzz once you accomplish something and it is definitely worth it! Menswear is changing rapidly each season and to be a new designer and part of its evolution is a great feeling!

SS: What item of clothing (if any) do you wish that more men wore?
Nicomede Talavera: I think the power of jersey can't be forgotten. From a t-shirt to a sweater you can't be more comfortable, but still stylish!

SS: You are currently interning for BLAAK, how are you finding it? What are you currently working on?
Nicomede Talavera: So far I've been there for 3 weeks and it has been an excellent experience! Seeing every step of a working designers schedule has enabled me to learn a lot of new skills and my eyes have been opened dramatically.

SS: What would you like to achieve in the next year, and beyond?
Nicomede Talavera: Up until August of next year I will be interning with designers in London, New York and Paris. Then in June 2011 I will show my BA graduate collection and then I'd like to go on to my MA. I'm also already beginning on my A/W 2010 collection which will be a lot more condensed and see me pushing and developing my style a lot further.

SS: Lastly, have you got any recommendations that you'd like to share with our readers?
Nicomede Talavera: In the summer 'The Secret Garden' nature park is the go-to place to eat lunch; it is located just behind the Phoenix Theatre and is definitely a welcome escape from the chaos of the West End.

Nicomede Talavera's debut offering is full of covetable pieces but these are two of our favourite looks. We think we'll be hearing alot more from this creative talent...

The Topman Experience

Topman's area 214 includes a house stylist, Sharps' barbers, cafe and Rough Trade.

The last week (and a bit) since Menswear Day has zoomed right past me in an excited but weary blur and the only downside to this is my 'to do' list is getting anxiously long. I have a number of post ideas gathering dust on the crooked shelf that is my mind but there is one in particular which has been waiting patiently long enough. Some of you would have noticed that during Menswear Day I was tweeting like an excited madman for our account but also for Topman's. I don't think my fingers have ever moved so quickly but thankfully I was not struck down with cramp and managed to last the whole day. Following this real time coverage (the wonders of modern technology, eh) I provided a few thoughts on the Topman related shows (New Gen Men and MAN) and got the chance to speak to a number of designers for their blog. As I've said a number of times already, I had a great day and it was amazing to watch menswear design take a huge step forward and I went to bed tired but happy. Topman however, wanted to repay me for my 'hard work' and invited me to the flagship store for a complete 'Topman experience', sampling all that the revamped store had to offer including a trim at Sharps barbers, a meet up with one of the stylists and a chance to get my hands on some of the new designs hanging on the rails.

Something for the weekend? Sharps' can certainly sort your barnet out whilst you shop.

The new upper floor at Topman's flagship store on London's Oxford Street has undoubtedly raised the bar on the high street. Of course, it is well documented on the blog that I 'm a huge fan of Uniqlo and feel little competes to the colourful, affordable basics it offers in it's stores. However, like all of the other stores on the high street, I like to spend as little time as possible inside. When I shop on the high street I swoop in like a consumerist eagle, grab what I need and escape (hopefully alive). The new look Topman will change that.

The new menswear area whilst providing a safe haven from the madness of downstairs. Topshop is one of the few places that I really dislike being dragged around. Of course I used to escape upstairs to browse the menswear but there was only so many times I could circle the rails. The new floor changes all that though. It boasts a wide range of new additions to keep me entertained including a live DJ booth by Rough Trade, an EAT cafe with Wi-Fi access, a Sharps barber and shop and even a personal stylist. The flagship store is now a true menswear shopping emporium which compares favourably to the madness of the floors below and what the rest of the high street offers. The rest of the post is dedicated to my little nose around...

Having had my hair cut by the lovely, camera shy Barry I was shown the store by personal stylist Vivienne.

As well as housing Topman's own lines, Topman Design, Smart and LTD, the menswear portfolio has been expanded to offer a carefully selected collection of menswear brands. Chosen for their credible design ethics and cult followings these include Baracuta, D.I.E, Garbstore, Paige Premium Denim, WESC, Calvin Klein Underwear, Humor, Ben Sherman to name just a few. One of my favourite additions to the shelves in store is the latest collaboration between accessory label Bill Amberg and the high street store. The four piece collection is based on styles from their own Selvage range but have been re-worked exclusively for Topman in four 'ready-for-autumn' colour ways.

The Bill Amberg for Topman bag collaboration.

All styles are made in England by West Country craftsmen and the vegetable-tanned leather is from one of the last pit tanning operations in the UK. These strong, simple bags are very hard wearing and their appearance will only improve with age. I am regretting not picking one out for myself now. It is however, great to see British craftsmanship being supported and given a platform on the high street. Likewise, a new breed of designer is being given the opportunity to sell their exciting designs...

For the very first time Topman have extended their support to emerging design talent by including their AW09 mainline collections from Christopher Shannon and James Long which were shown last season at MAN. Year after year, MAN and LFW demonstrate that the capital possesses some exciting menswear talent but it frequently all too hard to buy!

The Topman Design Aw09 show was one of my personal highlights from February and it is great to see it close up again and have the opportunity to buy it. There is outerwear made in rich wools, herringbones and Donegal tweeds which all just make me want the colder days and night to come round faster. The show itself was a masterclass in layering, with fine check shirts over soft rib vests and colour injected into traditional greys and browns via chunky knitted cardigans and as all of the components are on sale I was more than a little tempted to try it out for myself.

Lens, the designer collaborations area is thankfully back with an impressive line up of designers. After the past successes, Kasper Harup Hansen, Dexter Wong, Carolyn Massey and Mjolk have once again stepped up to design new ranges which will help you through the colder seasons in affordable style. I have to confess that I concentrated most of my attention on this area.

The Carolyn Massey lens line is particularly strong. In fact, on the opening night I bought the navy scarf coat which I've been wearing to work when it is just about cool enough to do so. During my wander around the store last week I was eager to buy more but I managed to just about restrain myself. I tried on the below fairisle cardigan and it made me feel like Christmas personified. As it was only September, I thought it too soon to be reminded of that particular time of year but will no doubt regret my decision if real snowflakes fall later this year. Later this week I will post outfit shots of my new buys, I am just waiting on my jet setting photographer (Susie) to return back from Paris.

Manly

A little while ago we received a comment that clothing we had mentioned was 'not suitable for anyone with a y chromosome'. This sort of comment (it's not the first of its kind and I doubt it will be the last) always gets me thinking. What is it that makes clothing 'appropriate' for you as a man? How important is it for you that your clothes make you look 'manly'?

Patrick Petitjean in a shoot for GQ style from last year

I come at this issue as a woman who loves having short hair (and I mean short) and feels equally comfortable in trousers or dresses. Women, in western culture, are generally allowed to play around with the idea of what is appropriate for their gender... and yet if a man is to put on a pink shirt or a top with a low neckline it is considered strange, gay (with an intonation that this is somehow wrong or less masculine) or just plain wrong. God forbid if they want to go really 'out there' wearing, say, a skirt or leggings.

You may remember me obsessing over this shoot here

I'll openly admit that I prefer a more traditional look for guys (whatever that means- for me I think that it means suits, trousers, simplicity of tailoring and print), but I think that it's a shame that men are dissuaded from pursuing a different aspect of style for the sake of this sort of propriety. I'm going to keep this post brief- it's a subject I can talk about for hours (just ask my boyfriend, I've been talking about it for about a week solidly now), but if I tried I'd never finish writing this. I'm more curious to know how our readers feel. Does looking manly matter to you? Is there anything that you wouldn't wear because it's too feminine, or are you more put off by the way that others might percieve you? Please let us know in the comments (or if you really want to go on about it, you can drop us an email).

Picture Postcard: The look of the season

Despite the warm sunshine forcing me to squint slightly as I type this and question what my calendar is showing me, we have indeed entered the month of October. It is one of my favourite months of the year. I like nothing more than wrapping up in warm knits to explore Hampstead Heath, kicking a few leaves as I go and chasing a few squirrels if the kid in me escapes and when it all gets too cold for me, escape to the nearest pub for a pint or two by the fire. During October, we are treated to a feast of colours. The recent look from the new look Fantastic Man website demonstrates that, although numerous they can all be worn at once, creating a marvellous harvest festival of an outfit. I can't decide what it makes me want to do more, sing kumbayah or just to throw myself in a big pile of crispy fallen leaves...at the moment I think it is the latter...

The more I look at this outfit the more I see, it really is a feast for the senses. Mr. Oliver Evans (can anyone tell me who he is, google is failing me) is wearing a mustard jumper by Dries Van Noten, an olive shirt by Lanvin and a grey cardigan by Comme des Garcons. Around his neck are a patchwork jumper by Comme des Garcons and a green scarf by Lanvin which combine wonderfully. His plum trousers are by Dries Van Noten and around his waist is an olive jacket by Lanvin. The look is finished off with plum socks from Falke and breathtaking oxblood brogues from Hermes. During October, the rich colours of autumn really come into play and should be celebrated. I thought I did until I came across this ensemble, I will certainly try and create my own harvest festival of a look for the weekend.

Hans Madsen in New York

As mentioned earlier in the week, one of the real highlights of LFW was the launch of NEWGEN MEN. The exciting initiative rightfully places menswear right at the fore front of fashion and provides a platform for the very best menswear talent. James Long and Carolyn Massey were of course the inaugral recipients of the the award but what of the designers who graduated from the MAN platform before this new initiative came in to place. Fashion156 posted a nice little 'Where are they now' feature back in March where they rightly praised the Topman/Fashion East MAN showcase and updated their readers on the progress of their graduates. At that time, there had been a total of fourteen designers who had taken part in the MAN showcase. Names like Aitor Throup and Kim Jones were still familiar and prominent but there were a number of talented designers who had fallen off my radar somewhat. The best example is Hans Madsen.

Danish native Hans Madsen graduated with an MA in Knitwear from the Royal College of Art in 2007, recognized for his well-crafted, conceptual and approachable pieces. Since graduating Hans went on to show his debut AW08 collection as part of MAN and returned the following season with his SS09 collection. Since moving on from showing as part of the MAN lineup, he has continued to hone in on his raw edged and ever so slightly romantic take on street-influenced menswear. Despite his designs being available here in London at b Store, I have to confess that he had fallen off my fashion radar. So I was extremely pleased when I heard the news (thanks to Dazed Digital) that FAE (First Among Equals) an independent purveyor of obscure labels will give Madsen his first American debut with his AW09 collection. This piece of news reminded me how much I love his nordic influenced designs. Here's hoping that he returns to London Fashion Week as part of an even larger Menswear lineup next season.

b...a magazine

As mentioned previously on the blog, I can honestly count the number of exciting stores in London using one hand. One of the very first fingers to be released from my clenched fist (which I shake to the heavens as I question the fall of our nation of shop keepers) is outstretched for the fashion mecca that is bstore. Despite being purveyors of some of the most forward looking designers today, the Savile Row store has always offered more than just fashion. b Store's partners Kirk Beattie and Matthew Murphy have been merging art, fashion and a particularly British sense of humour seamlessly for a number of years now whilst nurturing some of the best menswear design talent in recent times. The pair seem to always be striving forward, developing the brand and pushing that bit harder and I have to confess to being more than a little inspired...

In addition to delivering a chic, modern preppy S/S 10 collection for its b Clothing range, Menswear Day saw them dipping their toes back in to (after the success of their Pop-In Paper last year) into print publication with the launch of the first issue of b Magazine. Having run around the shows like a blogging madman all day, I missed the launch party and chose to have a quiet night in with the laptop writing up shows whilst stuffing my face with fish and chips (before my grease laden feast I had only had a shortbread biscuit and a cup of tea at the E. Tautz film screening, so don't judge me too badly). I did however swing by the store to pick up a copy for myself whilst perusing the fantastic new stock once again and I've barely put it down since.

The b store shirt and trousers combination here is just lovely. I want both pieces.

Gorgeous editorials styled by Jason Hughes and Sam Ranger sit alongside a look through the key hole of four unique homes belonging to b store favourites, including designer Peter Jensen, photographer Tim Gutt and his marvellous set designer wife Shona Heath, writer Judith Watt and artist Franis Uprictchard and furniture designer husband Martino Gamper. Thankfully, there is no sign of Loyd Grossman but there is plenty which turned my eyes a little green...

At home with Peter Jensen. The designer's small home in Primrose Hill gave me serious home envy

In addition to this home envy inducing feature, there is a wonderfully interesting interview with Tim Soar which is accompanied by a series of images of Ash Stymest styled in pieces from Soar's Aw09 collection. The interview is littered with thought provoking quotes from the designer but there is one I just have to share with you because it simply sums up what he does. "For me, clothes and fashion are interchangeable, but what I find really engaging about clothes is the way they allow you to present yourself in a different way and I play with that all of time." You have to appreciate Soar's investigative craftsmanship and the fact he is willing to take the odd sartorial risk.

One of my favourite features is entitled London Now and is a presentation of forty nine creartives from the fields of arts, fashion, film, graphic and film and everything in between. The striking portfolio of up-and-comers shot by Aitken Jolly, from actress Anna Brewster to Fashion East’s newest alumni, Michael Van Der Ham, illustrator Kez Glozier and blog favourites, Carolyn Massey, Satyenkumar and the Casely Hayford's. It supports emerging and young talent and obviously goes beyond the fashion world.

Jason wears a shirt and beaded cape both by Peter Jensen.

Created in collaboration with creative director of the b Clothing line, Jason Hughes and editor, Dal Chodha, the magazine feels like a natural evolution of the b brand on to printed paper. Like the wonderful read that ACNE Paper offers, b Magazine confirms that brand magazines can act as far more than merely a pretty advertorial for their own brand and range of products. Instead it makes the most of the editorial freedom afforded by no advertising and feels inventive whilst exploring the key facets of the brands ethics and values. I just wonder what the b store chaps will turn their hands to next...

Pattern Cutting as Art: A study on Anansi

To coincide with the Frieze art fair Paul Smith will be exhibiting the latest body of work from Hormazd Narielwalla entitled ‘A Study on Anansi’ from 10th to 21st October at his Furnishing Gallery. The exhibition will consist of a set of ten artworks drawing inspiration from two sources, Savile Row tailoring patterns and traditional African Anansi tales to create a new body of work.

A Study on Anansi is a celebration of the popular character from West African and Caribbean folklore brought to life using the discarded patterns. "Anansi", the trickster, is the wise and clever Earth God but I have to confess to turning to my trusty friend google, for answers. Despite my ignorance, many aspects of these stories have trickled through to Western society and into children’s stories, super-hero characters and fictional literature. In some versions of the stories Anansi created the sun, moon and all the stars. This attribute of the stories makes it through into Narielwalla’s work where Anansi dances, teases and entertains himself with his most prized creation, the sun.

I first came across Hormazd Narielwalla's work at EXIT Gallery's "A Fairytale About Fashion" exhibition. Narielwalla's Dead Man’s Patterns was a design story, beneath the trappings of menswear into the book, the man, the pattern, and his images really captured my imagination. and I just had to post about it. The artists work originates from sets of bespoke patterns, which of course belonged to former customers, now deceased, from a by-gone era. These patterns have recorded a history of intimate dialogues of customer measurements and fittings over a lifetime but no longer have any practical use to the cutter and are often discarded. The talented Hormazd takes these fragile pieces of parchment out of their original context and breathes fresh life in to the creases and careful folds, along finely traced pencil marks and measurements. Opportunities are created by giving these pieces of discarded paper a chance to breathe, simply in the act of extracting, giving them a new lease of life as art objects.

For this work, Narielwalla's uses scans, photography, his own sketches and digital composition to create a set of playful artworks that have a traditional look and appeal. Creating bespoke clothes for the rich and powerful has made Savile Row iconic but in this evocative work Narielwalla is showing us tailoring patterns, as they have never been seen. The patterns are reinterpreted and resurrected; the lives of people measured through tailoring are brought back to life as works of art through even older tales from another world.

For the past year and a half Hormazd has had the opportunity to work closely with Dege & Skinner's cutters and tailors. It is in this private tailoring environment that he truly began to consider tailoring as Art. Hormazd has recently been awarded an international scholarship to read a Doctorate in Philosophy at London College of Fashion and his main focus will be on pattern cutting as Art. The artist is currently working on the memoirs of Master Tailor and Chairman of the firm, Michael Skinner. Skinner's story will be narrated through his own pattern cutting journals whilst studying at the prestigious Tailor & Cutter Academy. I can't wait to find out more information on this project and as soon as I do, I'll share it with you. In the meantime, enjoy the selection of artwork above.

Trapped between the stripes...

Cary Grant in Hitchcock's To catch a thief.

For the last week or so I have become consumed by a desire to own a certain wardrobe staple, the Breton top. Those all too familiar signature blue and white stripes were originally the garb of French sailors and fishermen but the lightweight chambray cotton versions have since become a symbol of classic cool. The traditional loose fit, wide neck and dropped shoulders that we all know and love, caught the eye of Gabrielle Chanel during a trip to the beach, or so the story goes (as demonstrated in Coco Before Chanel), and she copied the look to kick start a fashion craze and association with style which has never really subsided. However, as great as Audrey looked in her Breton creation, there is one film moment which really resonates with me when I think of those stripes: Alfred Hitchcock's To Catch A Thief. It might take a brave man to accessorise a breton top with a red silk scarf the way Cary Grant did but I think I could be just that man to give it a try...I just need to invest in this classic staple. I have seen two recent incarnations of the classic breton and both appeal to different sides of me and I have to admit to being a little torn between them...

As previously mentioned here on, for S/S 10 E. Tautz took inspiration from a set of photographs of the Duke of Windsor holidaying on the island of Majorca in the 1930’s. Patrick Grant and his team explored the whole idea of an Englishman enjoying life on the Mediterranean in the summer and the above look really caught my attention. It just exemplifies how an good an Englishman can look abroad, the relaxed, almost nonchalent tailoring is a million miles away from the larger lout beach dwellers that come to mind today.

The E. Tautz version of the breton is certainly appealling to my more classic side but there is another, very different version which is also tempting me with its charms. Susie loved Sibling's warped take on the Breton and her enthusiasm is infectious in this respect. Sibling's knitwear pieces frequently combine timeless qualities and tongue-in-cheek references, all expertly knitted with fine gauge precision that never ceases to surprise me. Here, Sibling collaborated with artist Noah Scalin (of askulladay.com) to incorporate his skull patternation into the stripes perfectly. I just can't look at it for too long because it make my eyes feel a little drunk. I am a man currently torn between two bretons. I want them both.

Sweating in the name of fashion

During my twitter coverage of Menswear Day I mentioned to getting a tad warm and even little sweaty as the day wore on. Now, I'm not normally a sweaty chap, if I get a little hot under the collar I normally give off a healthy glow (ha!). The reasons for my slight over heating are twofold. Firstly, it was a warm, muggy day which would not have seemed out of place in the month of July but did so in the later stages of September and I was taken a by surprise. Secondly and most tellingly, I wanted to give my Carolyn Massey AW09 cable knit its first outing because it was the perfect occasion to do so...regardless of the climate! The below shot was taken at the mid point of the day when tiredness was creeping in but as it was taken by our flat guest, Phil from Street Peeper, I'm laughing because he is such a funny chap!

Carolyn Massey knit, trusty backpack by Material Boy, white t shirt and pleated grey wool trousers both by COS, socks from uniqlo and Stingray Orwells by Mr Hare. Shot by the lovely Street Peeper.

After inspecting the knitwear pieces up close (at the studio and at the Reflect Forward exhibition) I was left gushing at the cable knit pattern and I needed to own a piece and this one was just perfect. I have been in possession of this beautiful knit since mid July and it has been almost painful having to see it every morning and not having the opportunity to feel the soft, warmth of the wool because of the sporadic days of sticky sunshine we experienced at the tail end of Summer (oh boo hoo, I hear you cry and I have to concede that you'd be right but bear with me). Well, the opportunity to wear the knit to Carolyn's show and to support British menswear on the day proved too enticing and I teamed it with the best of the High Street and finished it off with those shoes. Despite seeing some folks in Spring/Summer attire I dashed from show to show, a little warm but extremely pleased. I can't wait for the temperature to drop that bit more so I can wear my knits every day!

New Gen Men: Backstage access

Backstage at Carolyn Massey

In one of the highlights of LFW, the BFC teamed up with Topman to support rising menswear designers with the launch of NEWGEN MEN. As well as seeing the show I was fortunate enough to nip backstage to inspect the collections up close and take a few snaps. Prior to the show, Gordon Richardson described the exciting initiative as one that "rightfully positions menswear at the fore front of fashion providing a deserved platform for the very best menswear talent" and the show certainly didn't disappoint. The privilege of being the first designers to share the stage at the inaugural showcase deservedly went to James Long and Carolyn Massey. In many ways these two, very different designers perfectly encapsulate what’s great about London’s menswear design scene at the moment.

Cole Mohr's look at James Long

Andy Warhol's 1978 artwork 'Oxidisation' was the starting point for James Long's inspiration and from there the natural world took over. Techniques used to translate his starting point included bleaching, hand tie-dye and foiling. Leather had the appearance of being tarnished by the rain, whilst waxed cottons and and foiled drills seem to have corroded and the dye oxidised. This collection combined with Patrick Eervell's fabric experimentation makes me wish I paid attention in my Science classes. Who knew the natural world could help create such interesting effects?

The deceptively striking colour palette came alive backstage under the lights.

Apparently Warhol used to urinate on copper, which made it look a bit like a camouflage pattern. Long's collections frequently have army references in them but none so blatant as in this collection. However, he twisted and fun with this aesthetic and made it appear war torn in places, then added a shininess to it and even tie die in others.

Fabrics with both a matt and sheen appearance are combined with foil to reflect light and to create layers of texture. The deceptively striking colour palette of black, metallic green, sun bleached peach and the 'polarvision style' washed out colours of oxidised metal and rust also played out in the accessories including leather lanyards, man clutches, satchels and weekender bags. It featured some of his most wearable and commercially desirable pieces to date. I grabbed James for a quick chat after the show and one of his remarks left a real impression on me. He reminded me that had it not been for NEWGEN MEN he would not have showed at this years LFW. What a crying shame that would have been!

Carolyn Massey has always been a firm Style Salvage favourite and it has been great to watch her develop the label over the last few seasons to become one of the most significant menswear designers around. Here, as mentioned in previous posts, she was inspired by the film 'Heroes of Telemark' (a film about heavy water sabotage in WW2 starring a rather tanned Kirk Douglas) and a recent visit to one of Kent's fishing villages Dungeness. Here her gentleman explores the great outdoors in suave protective gear. Lightweight trenches and bombers in technical fabrics with drawstring waists and utilitarian pocketing, pushed both fisherman and military wear in a modern direction and in one which most men would love to wear! The show standout waxed jacket, complete with detachable rucksack rocketed to the top of my Christmas list (I must have one!).

The braided belts, key rings and troddles on the arms of Massey's knitwear consultant, the lovely Lynn.

Accessories were granted greater prominence than in previous seasons and were styled extremely well. Massey has branched out in to a small bag collection, belts, key rings and troddles (traditionally used by the German army) and was inspired by the craft of Kumihimo, to create cotton ropes and braids. Having already had a sneak preview of the collection back in July I was a little shocked at how much the collection surprised me and left me in awe. The pieces came together perfectly to offer protection and function whatever the weather whilst colour, including mustard yellow and rich blues, was splashed throughout to create a collection to truly covet.

Lodger provided the shoes for Massey's show. I want, nay need a pair of brown brogues like these.

On the announcement of the LFW schedule, Sarah Mower remarked that "the stream of talent in menswear that has been coming out of London has turned into a torrent. The arrival of NEWGEN MEN puts in place a support system to nurture this spontaneous outpouring of creativity for the future.” These are undoubtedly exciting times for menswear here in London and as the first recipients of the award, James Long and Carolyn Massey have successfully showcased how different menswear can be. The menswear design floodgates are open, here is to the next surge of talent!