Satyenkumar SS10: Reflection through a lens.
You might have noticed that the Menswear Day shows were a little light on colour as many designers delivered a surprisingly dark, industrial, almost sombre colour palette. Too many depressing summers in this country maybe? Not for Satyenkumar. His collection was a kaleidoscopic travel through a lens! Inspired by sunset to sunrise, with background sounds from the Petshop Boys' Domino and underground Acid/Chicago being huge influences. Anyone hoping to bathe in the sun on a beach somewhere next summer would surely love this collection of colourful, lightweight tailoring.
There were colour accents and blocks, in dominating base tones of grey and nude to explosive Azure, Coral and lavender with hints of tie-dye inspired prints and transparencies. I was fortunate enough to go backstage and take a few close up shots of the vibrant colour. It might have been a typical September afternoon in London but examining Satyen's colourful craftsmanship transported me to an Ibiza beach at sunset...
This season focusses on sharp tailoring worn with enviable ease and a timeless yet modern hybrid of classics. Seemingly weightless outwear, jean inspired trousers and pyjama shorts, sheer/dense mix shirts, rainbow-patchworked vests and featherlight unlined blazers in Swiss Voile, Habotai and Tulle. A true celebration of colour and lightweight tailoiring.
Satyenkumar is a designer who has always quietly gone about his business of creating quality tailored causal wear for the modern eccentric English playboys, almost going unnoticed at times. Daniel Jenkins has been stocking Satyen's designs for a few seasons now and has frequently reminded me of his talents. I certainly think we'll be hearing a lot more about him after watching this show and deservedly so. Here is to a Spring Summer of sunshine and colour!