Sunday, 3 January 2010

Carola Euler AW09: An astronaut's day off

Back in March I revealed that I had given in to the temptations of a private buying event for Omar Kashoura and Carola Euler. Now the final few pieces have been delivered and I could not be happier with my buys. As the evening of the event fell on payday (and I had enjoyed the odd glass of wine with the designers) I chose to give my debit card something of a battering. Despite the consumer bravado afforded by the drink I did buy wisely and I was so pleased that my Carola Euler purchases arrived just in time for the New Year...

Two of my favourite looks from Carola Euler's AW09 Look Book

Since graduating from CSM in 2005, Euler has been justifiably talked up as one of the bright talents of menswear design and I have to confess to being a little perplexed as to why she is not a more dominant force in the industry. However, in an article for Ponystep, Dean Mayo Davies remarks that "Carola Euler is the softly-spoken menswear designer that operates on her own plain" who follows "her own path unflinchingly to make pieces with humour and integrity." Followers of Carola Euler like myself, would not have it any other way.

An astronaut's day off...Carola Euler's AW09 Look Book.

For AW09 the Berlin based designer returned with more of her sculptural minimalism. Her starting point for the collection was a response to the question, 'What would an astronaut wear on his day off in a spaceship." As a wee nipper it was never my dream to float around space, I preferred to imagine myself scoring the winning goal for Arsenal in the FA Cup final against Manchester United at the Wembley Staduim of my youth (oh it will never come to pass now...it just wouldn't be the same at the new stadium) but having mostly grown up, the idea of an off duty astronaut appeals. Regardless of its thought provoking inspiration, the real beauty of the collection in the details. As always with Euler, not all is apparent at first sight. It looks simple but you look again and you discover the details. Sharp pleats, panelled trousers, armour shoulder detailing, her signature cut away bib, biker sleeves, oversized shirts and jerseys with pyjama tails to name just a few.

Grey trench and white shirt by Carola Euler worn with drop crotch trousers bought in Hong Kong and Stingray Orwell's by Mr. Hare.

I have been on the hunt for a grey trench coat for the the best part of a year now but as soon as I encountered this one, the search was called off. Ever since it was developed as an alternative to the heavy serge greatcoats worn by soldiers in the First World War, the trench coat has been a popular wardrobe staple. Regardless of who invented it (Burberry and Aquascutum both claim to have done just that) the trench coat has fascinated designers ever since and there are so many versions to salivate over. Euler described this trench as the 'bridal piece' of her collection and it undoubtedly has a certain 'wow factor' to it...made all the more special because it is the only one made.

A close up on the shirt in front a bright January afternoon in London.

If the trench coat is a popular wardrobe staple, the white shirt is something of a classic. Here, Euler has masterfully updated this seemingly simple piece with sculptural, armour like details. I have amassed a collection of white shirts in recent years because I always find that when I put on a bright white, crisp cotton shirt I feel infinitely better. This is now my new favourite shirt.

White shirt by Carola Euler, worn with drop crotch trousers bought in Hong Kong and Stingray Orwell's by Mr. Hare.

Now, given that the pieces were ordered at the end of March, there was a moment when I thought that my order would never arrive. However, in spite of production issues (oh the difficult unknown life of a designer), the lovely Euler gave me a late Christmas present to savour and included a little something extra for the late delivery...a super soft luxurious jersey which I've found difficult to take off all weekend.

Super soft jersey by Carola Euler, black leather gloves from M&S, trousers by Unconditional and patent boots by Lanvin.

11 comments:

Cillian said...

Love each and every piece. I thought Euler had gone off the radar completely, good to see that's not the case!

/Male-Mode.com

Anonymous said...

they look great - but all this talk of clothes does make me wonder how much storage space you actually have? do you ever clear out your wardrobe - another thing to discuss maybe? I mean, what should somebody keep and what should be got rid of? Or are you like katie grand who has kept every item of clothing she has owned since the age of 12?

StyleSalvage said...

Anon- we always approve of a regular clear out! For starters, see these two posts: http://stylesalvage.blogspot.com/2008/01/salvaging-your-wardrobe.html

http://stylesalvage.blogspot.com/2009/01/art-of-wardrobe-building.html

though no doubt it'll soon be time for another reassessment and another post...

Style Salvage Steve said...

Cillian: She has been a little quiet but is still making beautiful clothes. Like I say in the path she is following her own path, but the impatient side of me wishes she was still part of the MAN setup.
Anonymous: Yes, it will soon be time for another clear out soon. I find them therapeutic. Katie Grand's wardrobe must be HUGE!

Make Do Style said...

Very wise wine buys indeed.
I do like the fact something would be born out of asking a question.

Perhaps you should do a 'what I would have worn to the old Wembley on the morning of playing for Arsenal against Man U' photo shoot.

Mat said...

that white shirt is just immense, you don't get much menswear shirts like this baby. keep for ever!

Ivan McK said...

Love that white shirt and the trench! A nice twist on the classics.

+8!3

Izzy said...

I normally despise bastardized versions of classics such as the white shirt and the trench coat, but I really like these. It shows that Euler put a lot of thought into the inspiration behind these pieces and they look very well-made too. Were the drop-crotch trousers tailor-made too?

Tom said...

Hi Steve! I just wanted to say I'm a fan of your blog. I enjoy reading about your latest finds and your interest in well-made clothing and tailoring. The shirt and the trench are really a headturner, and it's amazing that you have the piece de resistance from the collection! Congratulations!

Style Salvage Steve said...

Make Do Style: Great idea..I consider that as a challenge.
Mat: I know, the fit is just amazing. I will cherish it.
Ivan McK: Thanks! I think Euler is destined for great things.
The Dandy Project: I did think of your comment on twitter whilst typing this up. As I said before, if a designer (like Euler in this instance)approaches it the right way then the results can be amazing.
Tom: I'm feeling a little poorly and therefore a little sorry for myself so thanks so much for your kind words! I do feel extremely lucky to own these pieces.

Yamin said...

I recently came across your blog and have been reading along. I thought I would leave my first comment. I don't know what to say except that I have enjoyed reading. Nice blog. I will keep visiting this blog very often.

Lucy

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