Polimoda introduces Erïk Bjerkesjö

Pitti Uomo is far more than a tradeshow. Yes, as previously mentioned below, the eighty first edition helped showcase the AW12 collections of one thousand and thirty three brands in all manner of booths and presentations at the Fortezza da Basso but over the course of its scheduled four days the entire city of Florence becomes a platform for fashion. Rather than merely present products in a formulaic and expected manner, the series of well curated exhibitions, shows and events that are scattered throughout this beautiful setting spark excitement, thought and discovery. One of the real highlights of the latest edition was the debut of Polimoda Future Lab.

Polimoda is an Italian centre of excellence, recognised worldwide for its high quality, fashion-oriented, didactic offering that ranges from design and marketing to management and communication, always in close relation to the business world. Under the guidance of its Dean Linda Loppa, a world renowned name in the fashion education field that requires no introduction from me, Polimoda continues to grow and inspire. Now in its new premises of Villa Favard, set in a beautiful and ancient architectural complex on the banks of the river Arno, the Florentine creative institution unveiled a launching pad for graduates. Comprising of shows, installations, talks, workshops, Polimoda Future Lab is devoted to its former students and allows them present their vision of the future of fashion. Scheduled to coincide with Pitti Uomo 81, the first talent to be presented on this platform was Erïk Bjerkesjö.

Bjerkesjö, originally from Stockholm, was attracted to the promise of Polimoda and graduated with a Masters in Footwear and Accessories Design (2009-2010). He has since launched his own collection of clothing and accessories that marry his native eye with Florence's sense of aesthetics, its culture, art and crafts. There is an intriguing interplay between Swedish minimalism and the craftsmanship of Italy throughout that indicates the impact of his studies on his design. "Studying at Polimoda was in my opinion the best thing that has happened to me, two of my teachers and mentors included Patrick De Muynck and Diane Becker" revealed the design talent in an interview with Polimoda's very own Linda Loppa before continuing, "I learned a great deal, especially to believe in my vision and to create them without feeling forced." In addition to creative freedom, the opportunity to work with fashion companies and the proximity to areas of textile and leather production undoubtedly shaped his work. Each item of clothing and pair of shoes epitomises his singular vision and profound passion for well made design. Lets start with a look at his well crafted footwear...

Lookbook shots accompanied by my own shots from the presentation. 

Credits: Art Direction by Magnus Liljebergh and set design: Joel Junsjö / Lundlund.

The hand bevelled waist, fine punching on its toe cap and sleekly rounded almond shaped soles are all bespoke details of his footwear collection whilst the application of eighteen carat gold pins add a touch of glamour and Erïk Bjerkesjö's meticulously etched signature on the upper element of the sole, in the historic logotype from the Tuscany region, symbolises the traditional mastery of local skills. From well honed Tuscan shoe making practises to crafting armour from aluminium by his own hand, the design process is extensive. The result is an assortments of exquisite handmade treasures, quintessentially beautiful with a dash of unmistakable traditional mastery.

Whilst respecting tradition, the design talent learns from the craftsmanship of Tuscany and is nothing short of inspired. In addition to technique, Bjerkesjö is inspired by these artisans. What they wear and how they look have helped shaped his design. With precise details, precious materials and exquisite skins, he aims to define a new concept of male elegance. Photographed by Magnus Klackenstam with Art Direction from Magnus Liljebergh, his look book for Galop Marquis captures this spirit wonderfully...

Having accompanied them in their personal growth and guided them in the search for their own path, Polimoda introduce a selection of their students to the public thanks to this new project, There can be little doubt that Polimoda Future Lab will introduce us to to future stars of the industry and Erïk Bjerkesjö might just be one of them.