The prps of obsession

Shorthand for 'purpose', Donwan Harrell's PRPS takes not shortcut in its ambition to deliver the perfect denim product to the most discerning denim enthusiasts. Over the last decade Harrell has continued to innovate and evolve denim. Few denim brands can legitimately claim to do justice to an item as functionally and symbolically significant as a pair of jeans. At a time in which so many of his contemporaries have simplified the manufacturing process to the detriment of the end product, PRPS obsesses over every detail and ensures everything is done the right way. Sat in the private dining area of La Bodega Negra which has been decorated in the finest denim from the PRPS Noir line, we talked through his passion and the craftsmanship behind the denim.

Born into a hunting and logging family, Harrell has an innate understanding of functional clothing whilst quality and durability are of paramount importance and each and every detail on every item is constructed for a reason. His denim obsession dates back to when he first discovered what was going on in Asia. Rather than just admire the quality and dedication to true craftsmanship, the designer was inspired to open it up to a new market. "I just loved the really cool, high end jeans that were produced by small labels for the domestic business and when I came back to the US, I couldn't stop thinking about them and just thought, 'why can't I go back to Japan and get them to make something for me?' I saw the calibre in Japan in terms of the raw, five pocket, basic jean and wanted to push it more." Harrel's desire to push it that bit more ensures that PRPS constantly evolves. "So, I went to Japan, researched and began a relationship with the top family within the domestic market and over time it developed. There was no market for Japanese washed jeans at the time, it was non-existent. There were only around five small Japanese denim companies and you couldn't really find it anywhere, other than Duffer St George. For me to go to Japan and produce specifically for the Western market was unheard of at the time. It was great to create that path."

PRPS now offers three product lines, PRPS Goods (denim and sportswear), PRPS Japan (very clean Japanese selvedge denim), and PRPS Noir (Japanese denim with vintage washes and distress details). Given the surroundings, it is Noir that we focus on and Harrell's eyes light up and the pace of his chat rises to a canter as he talks me through the details of his cocktail of Japanese denim and distress details.

"In comparison with our other lines, Noir takes it one step further than where we've been previously. The bulk of the Japan line has always been non-selvedge denim and I wanted to take the selvedge denim and actually amplify it in to a full collection and I wanted to make the product more demanding from a design stand point. So, for example, I took the shanks and put them in paint thinner and exposed them in the sun for a week to rust them as well as the cracked leather that is used for the rear patch, I was inspired by an old couch - what I had them do was roll it up, twist and over dry so the leather has this aged appeal. The idea was to create this aesthetically superior product - laden with considered detailing.

Each segment has a different process. For Noir, it starts with me playing with the jeans in Japan and coming up with rough sketches but inspiration can be found every and anywhere from books to people in the street, I love looking at people who wear jeans as part of their working uniform, the jeans change through their day in, day out wear. I spend a lot of time with friends in the summer time and they are all diesel mechanics and all of their jeans are really, really crazy just from working for a period of time. I take photos and then experiment, trying to replicate elements that I've seen so that they look aged and already loved."

I have a particular favourite pair of jeans that one guy threw out and I found them in the dumpster and now they are in my personal collection. They are a great standpoint for me to look at and grasp where the certain tonal nuances are, I have amassed a pretty extensive collection over the years. I try and replicate what a guy would do in a working environment and apply it to a jean so that become a fashion statement."

Now, I'm far from a denim obsessive but Harrell's passion is infectious and my appetite was whet. Shortly after leaving the stomach rumbling inducing smells of La Bodega Negra, I took a closer look at a few of the AW12 options from PRPS Noir...

A closer look at PRPS Noir.

"Even though the market is difficult right now, there is a consumer base out there that understands what we do. The Japanese families are really traditional and anal about replicating the Big E Levi's concept - the construction and replication of an original World War II jean is the optimum jean making. Typically jean makers use a single needle technique and process for whole jeans manufacturing. There's no stop and go - no tension allowance for the different areas. Typically there are five changes in the stop and go process of stitching jeans that Mr Levi Staus created, based on the fact that when a guy works the tension in the stitching has to change for every part of the jean. For me, he was a genius but so many companies have lost sight of that and cut corners. At every segment of PRPS we stick to the different processes that he created because we are striving to keep that bar the same, if we are going to do any improvement, it comes through the leather quality, the shanks, the denim - but essential the process is the same. The hope is that the informed consumer understands that and buys in to the obvious quality."

There's no doubt that the informed consumer will fall for the charms of PRPS. From using the best cotton in the world to utilising the craftsmen of Japan's families who hand-spun it on the original looms that Levi’s used to create their denim and the experiments with finishes and details, Donwan Harrell's PRPS Noir line is a heady cocktail of tradition and innovation, the forgotten and the new. 

Treasured Items... Glenn Kitson

There are few items within menswear that provoke as much debate and obsession as denim commands. Geekery aside, regardless of where you live, what you do or what size you are, chances are if you have a quick rummage through your wardrobe you will encounter a few pairs of jeans in there some where. We all have our favourites and after giving it much thought, Glenn Kitson has chosen his pair of Levi's XX 1967 XXs for his most treasured wardrobe possession.

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Glenn Kitson and the well worn pair of Levi's XX 1967 505s.

"When Steve asked to me to find my most treasured item I spent weeks chewing it over, it was always at the back of my mind. You see, I wanted to look cool in front of my peers, do I pick something really obscure even though I don't wear it that much or do I choose something really exclusive and expensive? I pondered on it...

Eventually, it became obvious. I chose my jeans. Levis XX 1967 505. OK, so they're repros and in the world of crazy denim geeks, the fade probably isn't the best. But it's my fade. My wear and tear from work, cycling and raising a couple of kids."

A selection of detail shots showing the wear.

I've worn them in from raw, I sized up initially and had them tapered in quite blunt at the hem. I took them to an old Turkish tailor who when explaining that I wanted to keep the selvedge line nice and slim, shooed me away pridefully saying 'I know', needless to say, when I returned a week later to pick them up he hadn't listened to me and the selvedge edge is fat and chunky. But to be honest, I like them that way- they're unique. Its probably sacrilege to the hardcore denim nerds but to be honest, I'm not keen on their 'the way we used to live' fancy dress 'where's my steam engine' lifestyle/look. I live in the real world.

I could harp on about the history of denim and its primal association with an outlaw lifestyle but I won't ..Its bad enough that I'm sat here typing about my trousers... so anyway, there you have it. I like wearing my jeans."
Glenn Kitson is the co-founder of The Rig Out magazine (issue IV is a must read), a PR, stylist and many, many other things.  

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Albam in Angel

Albam set up shop on Upper Street.

On a bright Sunday afternoon, after the paper has been read and a few coffees drunk I like nothing more than a stroll down Upper Street, occasionally stopping off at Euphorium Bakery but more often than not aiming for the ever popular and always tasty Ottolenghi. In addition to filling my stomach the walk through Angel offers a number of enticing retail opportunities. Diverse and Sefton are ever tempting as both play host to the latest collections from exciting designers including globally renowned labels and fresh, new design talent. Now the temptation to partake in a spot of weekend consumerism has increased with the introduction of Albam's third store at 286 Upper Street (right next to Ottolenghi...oh temptation!). Founded in Nottingham in 2006 by James Shaw and Alastair Rae, initially as an online mail order company with just seven designs in the catalogue, over the last few years Albam have gone from strength to strength and deservedly so. In addition to the original Beak Street store the bloggers' favourite brand have recently spread their offering out east to the historic Spitalfields Market and now to my neck of the woods with the store in Angel. The trio of Albam stores offer a significant platform for the brand while still keeping it tight to ensure that they are discovery/best kept secret for their loyal customers. The guys had their opening party last Thursday and I wisely left the camera at home before one too many beers were consumed but I returned sober as a judge to take a few shots of the intimate yet impressive new space on Sunday. Grab my outstretched virtual hand and let me guide you through the two floors...

This rail and window display will ultimately pull me inside every time I'm in the area. The fruit of the Albam x Quoddy collaboration is particularly inviting.

The guys consistently create well made staples that can effortlessly slot in to and ultimately add something fresh to any wardrobe. These are a selection of items that provide solid foundations for any stylish wardrobe to built around.

With the ever present danger of a May downpour the outerwear is a good option. The Parka Rain Mac (front) is inspired by a famous shot of Steve McQueen. The raglan sleeve mac is looser fit, crafted in England from Teflon finished cotton canvas to help ensure you stay dry.

A grey elbow patch cardi sits in front of a carefully selected rail just in front of the initial rail.

The elbow patch cardi.A simple cardigan knit, crafted from the finest Giza cotton. Details include tan suede elbow patches and an internal melton patch pocket. It is a simple and versatile piece, ideal for layering.

These colourful shopper bags help cut down on plastic bag use in some style. Made in England from 100% cotton canvas.

Albam x Superga - The Italian classic vulcanised canvas pump is ideal for Summer.

The attractive view of the basement level. Denim, footwear, knitwear and shirting are all very tempting.

Albam's ever popular denim is woven in Japan but crafted in England. Supplied dry they develop a character all of their own as they are worn.

The first issue of Inventory looks at home sandwiched between chinos and denim.

The guys are working on a book and exhibition which will document the craft and craftsmen that help make up Albam. To whet our appetite two framed images sit hand on the downstairs wall.

I have my eye on this shopping bag to inject a bit of Summer cheer and I think it is about time I tried on a pair of jeans.

The third store is officially open.

As it grows, Albam continues to manufacture their products in Great Britain and where possible and, when it is not, they look as close to home as possible for alternatives. They now have good friends in Portugal, USA and Italy adding to the craftsmanship which is a fundamental facet of the label. We love how the duo aim to bring as much product back to Britain and how they have spent the last couple of years building a business which is enabling their British factories to grow and develop along with them. With the chaps opening this store on Upper Street there is a danger that my Sunday afternoons might become that bit dearer.

First Look at Natural Selection AW10

Natural Selection

The launch of Natural Selection has helped take premium denim to its next evolutionary step. Since its inception last year, it has delivered a fresh interpretation of denim, using the finest fabrics, authentic detailing and washes, coupled with innovative styling. Unsurprisingly, the label was inspired by Darwin’s theory of evolution and as such this is a key part of the brand’s identity, from the raw unlaundered denim to the authentically treated pair, which might be over 100 years old, the jeans. As the bearded British naturalist pointed out, the fight for survival ignites the spirit of competition within and from this comes the battle for authority and innovation. Last week I was invited to view their Aw10 collection and was both excited and surprised to see a capsule wardrobe of work wear inspired pieces. So, let me offer the first glimpse of their AW10 in full alongside a behind the scenes look at their look book shoot...

The range of denim

First up, lets take a look at their jeans. Their denim design details include 12oz, red selvedge, narrow‐width denim with newly developed, original hand washes that push the limits of techniques. Washes range from raw, through to bruised, broken and finally to buried, all are finished by hand.

The capsule collection

The notion that only the strongest will survive fits the brand’s keen desire to keep on evolving. In addition to extending its premium denim offering, Natural Selection has a few other treats in store. A range of luxurious, soft jersey t shirts which reference the Natural Selection handwriting were introduced for SS10 and they have extended this even further for AW10. The offering has now evolved to include a capsule wardrobe of covetable pieces. Darwin would have been proud...

The crumpled single breasted jacket particularly caught my attention

The offering is a selection of carefully considered pieces including an extended number of t shirt designs alongside button down shirts and relaxed, workwear influenced tailoring. For me, the crumpled tailoring is the real highlight. I just couldn't resist trying it on but now my wardrobe feels incomplete without it as I completely fell in love with the cloth. The pieces complement the denim range perfectly as like the denim, they use the finest fabrics and innovative detailing. The chaps are adding the finishing touches to their AW10 look book but to help you visualise the collection they have sent through a number of behind the scenes images of the shoot. The old mill location frames the collection far better than my excited showroom shots...

A behind the scenes look at Natural Selection's AW10 look book shoot.

A behind the scenes look at Natural Selection's AW10 look book shoot.

A behind the scenes look at Natural Selection's AW10 look book shoot.

The Denim Challenge...an excuse to shop

The image comes courtesy of the lovely Phil from Streetpeeper who spent the weekend on a blow up bed in our living room whilst capturing some great street style snaps of the folks of London.

EJ's recent picture postcard reminded me of my need to experiment with a certain fabric. For too long in my mind denim has only ever equated to jeans but as previously posted, the fabric has so much more to offer. Spring was always going to be the season when I played with denim and there has been plenty of inspiration in recent months, namely the Lanvin x Acne collaboration and I've considered accessories and much to Thom's disbelief...even denim blazers. Never one to shirk from a challenge, especially when one involves the opportunity to go shop, I ventured in to central and found exactly what I was looking for in bstore. Their ss09 collection had a quintessentially English quality with somewhat nostalgic straw boaters courtesy of Christine Bec for bStore, chambray denim smock tops, triple-pleat trousers which were neatly rolled up to the ankle and cotton shirts. When I saw the chambray denim smock tops hanging on the rails I just knew that I had to have it. I will certainly play with denim over the next few months because I've enjoyed dipping my toe in the chambray waters...I still don't think I can wear an all denim ensemble just yet though. here I teamed up my new purchase with rolled up Uniqlo wool trousers, suede Mario shoes by bstore and as the sun was shining I even dusted off my Linda Farrow for Topman sunglasses!