Treasured Items... Hugo Lavin

As Susie dozed in the reclined seat adjacent to me, Varón Magazine was my ever alert and engaging companion for the duration of my flight to Los Angeles. As the rest of the cabin daydreamed of Hollywood, I was engrossed in the monochrome mastery contained within volume six of the handsome title. Simply meaning male in Spanish and only seen through a filter of grayscale, Varón is a complex publication. With editorials that strive for a certain timeless and effortless aesthetic alongside text that encourages the reader to think. With Daniel Whitmore's cover gaze provoking intrigue on the shelves, we asked Varón Magazine's Fashion Director Hugo Lavin to share the tale of his most cherished wardrobe item. Here, the Spanish born, London based fashion spins the yarns behind his favourite sweater. It might not (thankfully, see below) have won him a party prize but it's nevertheless a worthy wool winner...

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Hugo Lavin and the unknown sailor sweater

"I stumbled across this sailor sweater at a charity shop as I searched for a potential prize winning entry for a party themed as 'The ugliest sweater party'. When I saw it it seemed to whisper my name. I instantly fell for its charms and couldn't resist it for three pounds. Obviously I didn't win the ugliest sweater award, as it was the best one on show.

It doesn't have any identifiable branding. It's made of very thick wool and reminds me the of the city where I come from: Santander. Sailor men arrive every morning to the port with this chunky sweatesr and their rain-coat. As a child I developed an obsession with the sea. Also, it reminds me that my adopted city of London and the North of Spain are very similar, so I feel at home.

The sweater itself is quite small but I love this kind of feeling that a garment it's getting small because you're growing up (back in the days to my childhood). This tiny, deep blue sailor wool sweater has probably been alive for a long time but will be continue with its new life with me for many years to come. Here's to a long life for the unknown sailor sweater." Hugo Lavin

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Treasured items... Dan Thawley

Whilst so many publications concern themselves with fleeting scenes from the conveyor belt of fashion,  A Magazine Curated By pauses before prospecting a creative's personality, propelling their whims and fancies. It is a course of clear, cultivated curation. Each issue is a collaboration between its editor and a talent that we long to hear from. The debut issue was curated by that intriguing enigma Martin Margiela back in 2004, the latest by Stephen Jones and we've explored the mind's of Yohji Yamamoto, Haider Ackermann, Kris Van Assche and the Mulleavy sisters to name just an inspiring handful. When you open its pages, time stops and explorations begins. As each is full of moments to treasure we couldn't resist asking its editor Dan Thawley to reveal his own cherished item in a spot of show and tell. Here, the currently Paris based Australian nomad averts his gaze from scanning all manner of cultural realm, focuses on his wrist watch and narrates its tale.

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Dan Thawley and the ticking memory

"It's my pa's Omega Seamaster Quartz watch. He'd wear it sitting listening to the radio in his den, sipping a beer with his two dogs at his feet. He died before I was 10 years old, and I was given it just after the funeral with an engraving on the underside dedicated to me. Wearing a watch can seem a little superfluous in today's digital society - but I try to wear it a few times a week - particularly at night. It's a very slim, sleek watch and I like the size of the band - it falls down the wrist just enough. I think it's the most masculine jewellery one can wear." Dan Thawley

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Treasured Items... Tim Sturmheit

From riding the month long conveyor belt that connects all of the major fashion capitals to scouring backstreets beyond the beaten track, oki-ni's Tim Sturmheit's mission is to unearth all manner of future treasures. It is a task he relishes and revels in. Casting an ever inquisitive eye across the menswear spectrum, the buyer has to feed the appetite of an ever growing army of discerning customers. With the likes of McQueen, Raf and Undercover sitting alongside J.W, Kenzo, Shannon, Our Legacy all manner of exclusive product, oki-ni is a veritable feast.

Having just returned from a buying expedition to Tokyo where he was dazzled by Ikat prints in the master-piece showroom, visited the new Thom Browne store and admired the colourful photography work of Paul Smith, we couldn't resist buying him a well deserved a pint and asking him to partake in a quick spot of show and tell. Here, Sturmheit rifles through his master-piece backpack and tells us the tales behind his most cherished items.

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Tim Sturmheit and personalised fruits of game changing commerce...

"This Thom Browne cardigan is a relatively recent addition to my wardrobe but is one that I'm sure I'll keep forever. For spring/summer 13 we gave customers the opportunity to pre-order a range of exclusive show pieces, direct from Thom Browne's Paris Fashion Week presentation. The concept was that customers could see the product from the show, we then went to the Thom Browne showroom and styled it all and people could buy it the very next day. Each piece had the customers name added to label to make each piece that bit more special. It was amazing to be involved in a project like that. You're working with really interesting people, it's a great brand that you wouldn't ordinarily have such access to and you're offering one-off pieces. When I went to Tokyo last week and visited the new Thom Browne store there and the PR Manager was there and it was so difficult to even take a few pictures for the blog. Also, he admitted that he had to buy a few pieces through us rather than from Thom Browne directly. 

For me, Thom Browne is an inspiring label. From his amazing runway shows to beautiful made product, both wearable and crazy pieces, it's all about building a brand. It's a big company in terms of monetary value but there are relatively few steps to get to Thom, it enables you to do these types of projects and I'm sure there will be more in the future. One of my favourite aspects of my job is working on special projects like this, coming up with new ideas and developing relationships. It worked really well both commercially and from a press perspective."

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....and the Thai travel tees

"I picked these t-shirts up when I went travelling. I did the 'just finished college but wanted to do something before I went to Uni trip' and went on a Cambodia and Vietnam trek with one of my friends and then lived in Thailand for six months teaching in a school. It was great. I spent most of my time playing with little kids who couldn't really understand me anyway so I have no idea how much I was actually teaching them but it was fun. I used to spend two or three hours a day teaching and the rest of my time was spent lying in my hammock or exploring the area. On your travels you see lots of street stalls. At the time I was in to vintage clothes, I had lots of old Adidas tracksuits from the 70s and 80s and I used to hunt things down all over the country and I wanted to collect something whilst travelling. Also, I went through a phase of buying a TinTin t-shirt from every country or significant place that I went to but I've ended up losing everything single one of them. It was quite a challenge because I'd go to places that had no idea what or who I was talking about. I wanted to do something similar on this trip. You can't pick up too many things on the move when you need to travel quote light so I decided on t-shirts. I'd often lost the t-shirts I had brought with me anyway because it was so hot and they could be forgotten at parties. I bought about fifteen all together and came home with around five. I'd never throw them away now, I just have them to kick about in. I can't really fit in to them but they remind me of a great experience. Each has a memory of where I picked them up, if and how I bartered with them for the price, they're fun." Tim Sturmheit

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Treasured Items... Julian Ganio

The fashion shuffle, the procession from show to presentation to tradeshow (repeat to fade) can be a dull and even dour affair. Failing to mirror the excitement and energy of the collections, frowns are frequently fruitful on the FROW. However, there are a few faces that are positively beaming, ever positive and eager. Behind one cheeky smile is stylist Julian Ganio. Now, this London College of Fashion graduate first caused a wry smile and sent ripples of excitement through the industry when he sent a troupe of older, plumper, daddies down the catwalk for his graduate collection back in 2002. Having spent the last decade adding a little colour, texture, intrigue and fun to menswear, Ganio has made a name for himself working with Topman, Fred Perry and Dunhill as well as nurturing emerging London including Omar Kashoura, Agi&Sam and Craig Green. Whilst styling for your favourite style titles, he was recently made Fashion Editor of everyone's favourite, Fantastic Man. Buying him a coffee and a congratulatory slice of cake, I couldn't resist a spot of show and tell in a quiet enclave of East London. Here, with that omnipresent smile recounts the tale of two treasures.

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Julian Ganio and the familiar corduroy hat

"This brown corduroy hat is from Joseph. I don't even know if it belonged to my mum or dad. I just know that I've had it from around 1998 but the hat itself is much older. I've done some digging and I think it is from the label's autumn/winter 76/77 collection. I can't recall how it came in to my possession but I collect hats, I've got about eight hundred. There are so many hats that mean something to me but this one just feels really relevant for me at the moment. I've been wearing it loads this Winter, mainly because it goes really well with a corduroy Margaret Howell suit, and well with some other cord pieces from Engineered Garments. I remember first wearing it when I was going through a hip-hop phase at around fifteen or sixteen, it was my own take on a bucket hat. Then I hadn't worn it for years but it now feels appropriate again. I like how worn it is. It makes me feel like I've had a past and been wearing it for thirty years. It manages to be both smart and scruffy, a little beaten up. At the moment, I like wearing things that are quite tailored but lived in, unstructured, nothing too pristine. It's the type of hat that I don't have to be too precious about, I can just stuff it in to my bag and it's fine."

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.... and the Paul Smith paisley pair

"I've had the Paul Smith tie since 1999 and borrowed the scarf a lot over the years but didn't have it permanently until more recently. I've asked my Dad and he thinks they are from the mid 80s. As both of my cherished picks are so old, the memories I have of each of then have been developed from photographs. I remember them more as objects that I loved at home, finding them as I rummaged through the wardrobe or seeing them on the hat stand. I definitely think my parents had an influence on me and my interest in fashion. Both were very into clothes. My Mum use to work for Joseph back in the 70's and my Dad has been a hardcore Paul Smith fan from day one... and I used to get dragged round the Floral Street store in the 80's every Saturday afternoon when Covent Garden was quite different.

I don't wear them so much. I have moments with them where I will over wear them for a couple of months then move on but I always go back. I especially loved them when i was at LCF during 1998 - 2002 and wore them the most then. I've worn the tie more recently, it feels quite current and not vintage at all... almost like Agi&Sam could have made it... it could easily be their take on a paisley." Julian Ganio

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Treasured Items... David St John James

From delicately placing mighty crustaceans in to the crevices of impressive, ice white Stone Island outerwear to coercing Nigella Lawson in to her favourite marigolds to slipping a beautifully cut Richard James suit over the shoulders of Will Ferrell, David St John James, over the last twelve months alone, has provided countless moments to treasure inside the pages of Port. Ever since the publication made its assured and confident debut back in March 2011, the self-styled "intelligent magazine for men" has filled a gap in this somewhat confused and unoriginal market. Thanks largely to its mouth watering roster of contributors, eye for detail and obvious passion, it is a publication that continuously provokes thought, ignites imagination and surprises. Its Fashion Director, freelance stylist and consultant St John James encapsulates and continues to provide many of these traits. So, who better to partake in a spot of show and tell? Here, he rifles through just one of his cherished scrapbooks and picks out his most loved and most worn sweatshirt.

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David St. John James and the style scrapbook

"I have to be very honest with you, having given this some thought, I don't really treasure much in the way of clothing. I love clothes and I look after them but if the house was burning down I would probably let them go up in flames whilst I grabbed boxes of photographes and things I have collected over the years. I treasure my souvenirs and memories, from old badges, cards, pages torn out of magazines, menu's, trinkets, unnecessary plastic objects and so on. Given the style element of the decision, I had to grab a selection of scrapbook images from what I had at hand. I still have stacks of stuff I have yet to deal with and organise. The picture of the yellow trousers with whales and the one of Mathew Broderick I have had for absolutely ages."

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and the cosily double extra large Peanuts sweatshirt...

"This sweatshirt came in to my possesion while shopping and pulling samples for a job. I saw it and decided I needed to own it. I love Halloween and candy corn and it reminded me of my American heritage. In addition to loving Halloween, I've been a big fan of Peanuts ever since I was little, so it makes me happy. My earliest memories of Peanuts is Christmas. The animated film, Charlie Brown Christmas was played every year on television. For all I know, it still is. This was my favourite scene. It has a beautiful soundtrack by Vince Guaraldi Trio, which I own and still play every year. The sweatshirt itself, is extra, extra large and it gets worn constantly. On occasion, I have worn it outside but not for a very long time, these days it's strictly comfy home time only. It is of great comfort and I would be a little sad to see it gone." David St John James.

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Treasured items... Goodhood

Located just an eyelash flash away from my office, I often find myself drawn to Goodhood's treasures on a lunch break. Always innovative, always exciting, the backstreet boutique has continued to breathe fresh life in to London's retail scene ever since it first opened its doors in 2007. Now housed over two floors and with an additional space on the other side the road, the contemporary concept space showcases an international cocktail of independent and rare brands. With Spring/Summer 13 deliveries from the likes of Junya Watanabe, Wood Wood, Yuketen and Soulland welcoming the sunshine, I found myself drawn to the ever inviting store once more. As I admired the rails, I could not resist asking Goodhood's very own Kyle Stewart and Adam Tickle to partake in a spot of show and tell. Given that their store affords the discovery of future treasures at every turn, it was only fair that they revealed their own cherished items. Here, co-founder and owner Stewart dips in to his pocket for his Grandfather's pocket watch and jack of all trades Tickle turns to his turntable.,,  

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Kyle Stewart and the tank driver's pocket watch

"The Services Pocket Watch was my Grandad's and was issued to him when he was in the army during WWII. This one was made in Great Britain by the Anglo-Celtic Watch Co. Ltd in Wales. He drove a tank during the war and never gave anything away about what happened during that time. I think it was quite a shocking experience and he always kept tight lipped about what he has seen. He was a real gentleman and lived a very simple life. This and a book of Robert Burns poetry are my only heir looms, and needless to say are very treasured." Kyle Stewart.

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Adam Tickle and the vinyl verification from Slim Gaillard's Tutti Frutti

"I picked this record up from Haggle Vinyl in Angel. I say picked up but it was not that simple. Haggle is amazing store is run by a mega eccentric old raver, he looks like he's lived a  good life. I've been popping in for three or four years now and every time there's this sense of him clocking you but he ignores you, he doesn't give you too much time. On one occasion he was playing this record. I told him that I liked it and asked him what it was but he just replied, 'Oh, you're too young to listen to that and it's not for sale.' I just thought he was being really difficult. However, he did point me in the general direction of something similar and offered a few suggestions of labels. I picked up five records, took them to the till and he told me that he'd do a deal for them, £10 for the lot. It was only when I got home that I realised he added this record. So, for that entire awkward shopping experience he was just playing with me. The record itself is from the 40s and by an improvised Jazz and Blues singer called Slim Gaillard. If I could save just one record from a fire, it would be this one. It's wicked. I've had it three years now and listen to it loads. It's great for a chilled after-party. It's a late night favourite." Adam Tickle

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Treasured Items... Fraser Laing

Located in the labyrinth of curiosity that is Stables Market, General Eyewear is an independent opticians with a difference. Selling a curated selection of frames and sunglasses from 1750 to 1990 whilst designing and producing its own limited edition collection of frames and sunglasses, it affords discovery at every turn. I've gladly lost countless hours in the absorbing space, admiring all manner of frames and chatting with its ever inspirational and knowledgeable proprietor, Fraser Laing. For him, frames are far more than commodities, they are exciting and at times mysterious artifacts. Given his enthusiasm for craftsmanship and diverse design, I just had to ask him to show and tell his most treasured possessions. Here, he tells the tale of two seemingly unrelated flea market finds.

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Fraser Laing and the essential market kit...

"Given the logo I think it is Swiss. It's not that old, from only 1975. I've googled the markings but can't find out anything more about it. So I can't tell you who used it or where it came from for sure but i has been suggested that it is either Swiss Army or from one of the other military services. It has got a metal base that makes it quite heavy but it's so sturdy, I can't imagine anything going wrong with it. I picked it up in a flea market in London. For me and a flea market, it was quite expensive at fifty pounds, even the guy selling it knew that it was an extraordinary thing. It's been well worth it. Despite its weight, I use it all the time. When I go to markets it is essential that I have my hands free to look at things and with some bags there's a chance that you could leave it behind but I wouldn't forget about this one."

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... and the surprising fellow flea market find

"My second choice is quite different on first sight but I actually picked it up in the same place, just at a different time. I go to this market in Wimbledon religiously on a Saturday morning. It always manages to throw up the totally unexpected, it's not edited or anything so it is always surprising. Basically, this item is a case for a sugar bowl and a spoon. It manages to feel menacing yet is made from papier mache, is cheap in terms of materials yet would have required a great deal of labour.  It is the essence of what design should be. Functionality is never enough. If it were just a matter of functionality then the world would be a dull place. 

It is the dichotomy between the outside and the inside that fascinates me.  It is very conscious of itself, the designer wanted to make this hard black shell. Both choices are designed object. That's what interesting to me. It got me thinking fashion going back to industrial design. For me, fashion is industrial design. It's just that the objects desire level has to be greater in fashion, that's the only difference. There's always going to be more razzmatazz around a handbag than a train." Fraser Lang.

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Treasured items... Erïk Bjerkesjö

When I encountered the assortment of exquisite handmade treasures, quintessentially beautiful with an added dash of unmistakable traditional mastery in the splendour of Villa Favard just over a year ago, it was impossible not to fall for the charms of Erïk Bjerkesjö's debut. Considered yet exciting, classic yet modern, the remarkably accomplished collection told the personal and professional story that began in Sweden and grew up amidst the great craft traditions of Italy and Tuscany. It is a tale that continues to fascinate me. Bjerkesjö's hunger to develop, hone and further traditions appears insatiable and each time that we've spoken, his enthusiasm, interest and love for the individuals that combine to realise his handmade shoes and their complimentary wardrobe, is both obvious and contagious while his longing to learn, develop and evolve in inspiring. Given that his products are items to truly treasure, I couldn't resist asking the talent to share the personal narrative behind his most cherished possessions... 

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Erïk Bjerkesjö and the ever willing and versatile leather companion

"I made this bag more then fifteen years ago. It was the first and only bag that I have made for my own collection. The construction of it still interests me, it only has three parts, so it feels modern. However, it turned out like that because during the production process I had no more thread for the machine. I grew to like it just the way it is.

Magnus Klackenstam really liked my bag, and when we where making my ss13 photo shoot, he snaped the bag for me! I still love it today and I always take it with me every day and I always have. When I used to skateboard more I brought the bag along because it was perfect to do trick over, at school it was perfect to transport my books, and sawing tools. Now when I am travelling or working in the studio, the bag is always fully packed with books, papers, tools, shoe hammers, a laptop and everything else."

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.... and the lucky driving gloves

"I appreciate that not many people select to treasured items but I had to include another favourite, my grandfather's driving gloves. I wanted them ever since I was a little boy and used to wear them when we played basketball together. He remembered and gave them to me on the same day that he passed away. I always keep them close to me so if they're not on my hands they are in my bag. They are my lucky gloves and I put them on whenever I feel like my self confidence or belief requires a little push." Erïk Bjerkesjö

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Treasured Items... Alex Frank

Each time that I've ventured across the Atlantic for a good nose around New York Fashion Week, I've encountered the friendly face of Alex Frank amongst the sea of the unfamiliar. Style Editor at The Fader, Frank is one of the most interested and supportive out of town journalist to London menswear, so it should come as little surprise that we get on. Currently in my capital researching a feature on the latest crop of design talent, I couldn't resist organising a spot of show and tell to uncover his most cherished items...

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Alex Frank and the Pop Souk find

"I picked up this cap at an amazing pop up market called Pop Souk. Now taking over The Standard, it has become a yearly showcase for emerging designers in New York. It is a club kids dream with DJ Sets, Go-go dancers, drag queens and so much else. Basically it's New Yorkers hanging out in their own personal pop up shops and hocking treasures from their own closets or selling their original designs and wares. It was here and amidst the madness and cocktails that I first encountered Gypsy Sport, a recently launched street wear brand from Harlem. They do bill-less baseball caps and amazingly fitted updates on the traditional Muslim Taqiyah hat but I snapped this one up. I've been looking for the perfect plaid hat for ages and this it. Also, at $25 it is an absolute bargain."

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... and the first item in Neoprene

"This jacket is by an amazing but quite under rated label called Number:Lab. For me, it was one of the first labels in New York at least, that really understood the tech world. Luis Fernandez, the designer behind it, is a total geek for innovative fabrics and futuristic technologies. He just does the best dressed-up gym clothes. A part of me has always wanted something made from neoprene because I love it as a fabric but I tend to find that most designers don't use it quite right. Luis understands what neoprene should look like. It doesn't feel clingy and it is lined really well so that it actually feels likes a hoodie. I just think it is super cool and everything just works. I've only had it for a short while and worn it a few times but I plan on wearing it a crap load." Alex Frank.

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Treasured Items... Ochuko Ojiri

"I have a fine head of red hair thank you very much but occasionally it is covered by a Bowler, Trilby, Panama, Beret, Plantation, Beretta, one of a whole host of wooly hats, there is a Stetson if I were to look for it and caps galore. I've pretty much got the entire gamut of head gear in the house," reeled out writer, broadcaster and hat connoisseur Robert Elms excitedly on Woman's Hour last week. As the Radio 4 programme  asked the question, 'what leads a man to wear a hat today?', it is clear that Elms is in the minority of passionate hat wearers. There have been many golden eras where a man would consider an outfit incomplete, consider himself naked even, without a hat. These sentiments have certainly dwindled but thankfully, they have not been totally lost. Pelican & Parrots' very own Ochuko Ojiri is almost, always wearing a hat. Watching over his treasure trove of curiosities, a cocktail of contemporary furniture and objects sitting alongside one off vintage pieces, Ochuko is rarely seen without a hat. The form might change according to need or fancy but whatever silhouette it takes, a hat is a constant fixture. Here, he shares his Sunday Best.

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Ochuko and the Sunday best hat

"For as long as I can remember, I've worn a hat everyday. I think it goes back to growing up in the 70s and 80s and seeing these old black guys in their hats, accessorising those sharp suits. More than being under dressed, I feel undressed without a hat. People fail to recognise me if, for whatever reason, I am hat less. Hats are an important part of my look.

I've got so many hats. Every hat you can imagine. I tend to go through cycles of obsessions. I've recently been really in to tweed flat caps. This particular hat is my more formal hat, my Sunday hat and I've been wearing it on and off for the last ten years." Ochuko Ojiri.

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Treasured Items... William Kroll

Over the last few years William Kroll has worked tirelessly to nurture an evolving family of British artisan producers to supply his needs. The result is Tender, a small clothing label that specialises in denim and making an ever growing inventory of products by hand. From a pair of wattle dyed hand linked cotton socks to a hand thrown red clay coffee mug and graphic interlock t shirts to cotton acetate sunglasses, each Tender item is is a personal and exhaustively conceived, sourced and manufactured celebration of craftsmanship. Each is a labour of love. It should come as little surprise that his most treasured item shares these values. Here, Kroll tells us the tale behind his favourite piece of knitwear...

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William Kroll and the Grandmother knitted Guernsey knit.

"This is a Guernsey sweater that my Grandmother knitted for me. One of the reasons that I love Guernsey knits in particular is the tightness of the knit pattern is and how the wool reacts to rain to help seal it. It affords you that bit more protection from the elements. Another, is how they are knitted. They have a pattern from the middle of the chest up to the neck whilst the rest, including the sleeves is left plain. They are the same front, back and inside out so you can wear them four ways which means you get extra wear from them. Also, when you get washed overboard and drowned, the pattern on the top represents your village and means you get returned to the correct place. Each village or town has their own distinct pattern and is complete with initials on one side.

I chose a relatively plain stitch because I liked the look of it in all honesty but if I were to be lost at sea, or anywhere else for that matter, I would be returned to Scarborough which is where my Grandmother used to go on holiday. My initials of W.A.K. are on the back and are a little stretched because she got the pattern a little mixed up. 

I've had it for about three years now and wear it almost every day during autumn and winter. These days, I only tend to wear things that I have designed but this is one of the few things that I didn't, yet wear regularly. It was a real labour of love because it is navy blue and she didn't find the yarn easy to see. It is packed full of interesting features. It's not completely faultless but that's one of the reasons why I like it so much. Ultimately, I love the fact that my Grandmother knitted it for me, that there is only one of them and when I first got it there were a few white hairs knitted in to it. It's just a lovely thing." William Kroll.

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Treasured Items... JW Anderson

Born in a small town in County Londonderry, Jonathan William Anderson originally wanted to pursue a career in acting. Thankfully for our wardrobes, whilst learning the art of treading the boards, he soon realised that he preferred the costumes to the dramatic action and went on to study menswear at the London College of Fashion. His eponymous line made its debut at London Fashion Week back in 2007 with an audacious collection that was characterised by the use of real insects in jewellery. A dark and somewhat sinister, Rasputin-inspired AW08 collection followed, before Anderson made his real breakthrough with the highly acclaimed SS09 collection, An Eye for an Eye. Drenched in historical referencing, inspired by religious paraphernalia, mythical characters and societies bound in traditions, the collective imagination was ignited. A well measured step into womenswear followed and that suddenly propelled the designer on to the international stage and he has captivated an ever growing audience ever since. 

 The design talent has barely had time to look back on a remarkable rise but we asked J.W. Anderson to sift through his wardrobe and reveal his most treasured item. We've previously discussed how a treasured item should stand the test of time and his pick has certainly done that...

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J.W and the personalised swimming hoodie

"I've had this sweatshirt ever since I was nine years old. it was part of my training kit and came with matching shorts that would now be far too obscene to wear. I love a hoodie, I love the ease of them but this, with my initials chain stitched in to it to help differentiate it from my brother and sister's who were also part of the same club. I loved swimming, I swam for this club and then for Ulster but then I moved to London and started smoking, ha. 

Now, I just wear it when I get the end of my laundry cycle but I love it. This is the only thing that has survived through time and various moves. It just hangs on in there." J.W. Anderson

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Autumn Favourites... Will Westall

As mentioned in our recent post on Encens, we have always been fascinated by the idea of uniform. Many of us regularly turn to set clothing each morning for ease, comfort and confidence. With the addition or subtraction of a few layers, our sartorial habits of the everyday can prevail over any seasonal difference. In our latest instalment from the 'Autumn Favourites' series, Other's very own Will Westall tells us how an emergency charity shop buy has become an everyday favourite. Whatever the weather, his Levi's denim jacket adorned with an ever changing array of patches follows the model, stylist, creative web director and all round man about town wherever he treads. Here, against a backdrop of leaves falling under the autumn's spell, he dresses up for the season by wearing his old favourite with an assortment of his in store picks...

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"My Autumn favourite is my every day favourite. It's an old Levis denim jacket, nothing particularly special, but it's mine! 

I've had this for years and years. I picked it up for a tenner in a charity shop because it was getting cold and I couldn't be bothered to go home before going to a party. I was already out West and going back to East London because I was cold felt a bit ridiculous, I didn't have my bike and I can't stand public transport... So I suppose I can thank my utter laziness for acquiring what's since become my most treasured item. I wear it every single day of the year. Over a shirt and jumper, a tee or under a coat. If it's not on my back, it's in my bag. Over the years it's been dyed, bleached, and re-dyded which has now actually given it a really nice super soft feel to it and a really deep inky colour. It'll probably stay as it is for at least a few more years, though I imagine the patches will chop and change here and there, They've all come from gigs or tees that have finally fallen to bits. Sadly I'm not one for sewing and they tend to fall off..."

"Full outfit run through...

Shirt - Blue flannel Thomas shirt by OTHER. Just a great cut, blue flannel button down shirt. Job done!

Sweater - Navy Albert sweat by OTHER. This one's turned into a bit of a staff favourite, it gets pretty cold in our studio, so we all end up in the same sweater at the end of the day...

Shoes - OTHER/T&F Slack, I was lucky enough to get my hands on these! Theyre not quite ready yet and still in production, so I was pretty stoked to be able to get my hands on a pair! Thanks Matthew!

Trousers - again I can thank Matthew for these ones! They were some old b Store samples that sadly never went into production, luckily for me, I managed to cop a pair and i cant seem to take them off now..." Will Westall
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Treasured Items... Matthew Murphy

A treasured item should stand the test of time. Far from being influenced by the whims and fancies of the now, a truly treasured item should be continuously appreciated, worn and loved throughout any change. Here, Other's very own Matthew Murphy shares the quick tale of his cherished Margaret Howell double breasted blazer. What began its life as a special occasion fix has since become a mainstay in his wardrobe a decade on. It's a testament to the timeless authenticity of British fashion's great outsider...

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Matthew Murphy and the every occasion blazer

"I purchased this blazer from Margaret Howell after dropping in to her Wigmore flagship store around ten years ago. I was searching for something to wear to a very good friends wedding and found this gem. It has remained a permanent resident in my wardrobe since. Seasonal buys have since been relegated to the boxes in the loft but this particular jacket never felt as if its time was up. There has always been an appropriate occasion and time to wear it. In my opinion this is the strength of Margaret Howell as a designer, to make modern classics. I was originally attracted by its use of fabric, traditional shape with its double breasted and peak lapel, but the unstructured construction and use of washed cotton has a modern and casual feel." Matthew Murphy.

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Treasured Items... Rhamier Auguste

Having missed Tim Coppens and Siki Im present their SS13 collections last week due to a planning error on my front, my menswear design dreams rested in the accomplished hands of Patrik Ervell. Thankfully, the last of my favoured trio of talent did not disappoint. Adopting a Californian mindset, he appropriated, explored and reimagined technical leisurewear to stunning effect. We've come to expect a utilitarian and elegant parade of boyish tailoring from Ervell but people often overlook his fascination with experimentation and fabric development. In recent seasons we've been seduced by his use of gold foil, vintage parachutes, fabrics died with oxidised iron and copper, handmade rubber raincoats, horsehair and most splash dyed silks.

Seasons on, I still dream about finding a club collar rust shirt from SS10 in my size. My hunt is ongoing and my longing indefinite. There is always hope. Yesterday I met up with freelance fashion assistant/stylist and Opening Ceremony family member Rhamier Auguste for a beer and a spot of show and tell. Here, he retells the story of his sample sale snatch, turning my eyes green in the process...

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Rhamier Auguste and the sample sale snatch...

"Last summer a good majority of the Opening Ceremony NY team (including yours truly) were setting up for the sample sale we have every once in a while. Opening up boxes filled with merchandise from the past seasons is always a treat for me because you never know quite what you'll find but hold hope for uncovering certain pieces. I was in the right place at the right time when one of the boxes we opened had left-overs from Patrik Ervell's S/S 2010 collection. 

Anyone that knows me knows that Patrik Ervell is my favorite designer. Frantically combing the rack for my size in any of the rust-printed jackets, I finally came across a size 40. I'm usually a 38 but being the die-hard fan of his that I am, I knew the sizing ran a bit small. I tried it on and it fit like a glove. At the end of the day, I had it booked out, and the rest is history. I've only worn it about three times but each time I wear it, anyone, whether it's the elderly or a member of fashion's elite, have made it a point to compliment me on it. The process in creating this jacket was a pain-staking one, and I believe this was one of the collections that solidified Patrik Ervell's place among the better menswear designers in NY." Rhamier Auguste.

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Treasured Items... Brandon Acton-Bond

As I currently find myself casually covering New York Fashion Week I couldn't resist stepping off the fashion conveyor belt in search of a change of pace. I found friend of the blog and adopted New Yorker Brandon Acton-Bond and asked him to take part in our 'Treasured Items' series. Thankfully he agreed.

Now, as we lurked in the sartorial shadows last year we revealed that Brandon is a man who knows how to use colour and play with textures to make truly wonderful, multi faceted, layered outfits. He is someone who knows how to balance vintage, high street and a mix of labels (although, he is a self confessed Issey and Comme addict) in such a way that the admiring observer has absolutely no idea where he shops. Unsurprisingly, his cherished show and tell demonstrates all of these facets...

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Brandon Acton-Bond and the everyday cuffs

"I wear these two cuffs everyday. To me jewellery is the hardware of style and as such it should, for me at least, be as symbolic and meaningful as a tattoo. It also represents more long term thoughts and ideas on the way I see life. It has to stand the test of time and take the hard knocks and so do the ideas.

The silver Navajo cuff was given to me by my best friend Amber Doe. It's a shame that in NYC it's tough to see the people you love on a regular basis so this keeps us together. We share almost the same birthday (23rd and 24th march) and two years ago we exchanged cuffs which we have both worn everyday since. I guess it's a glorified friendship bracelet but it means so much to me.

The lapis cuff is from Afghanistan and was made in the 80s. Whenever I start a new job I always reward myself by purchasing something I've wanted for a long time. I had seen it in a random Asian Tchotchke shop in my neighbourhood for a few months but couldn't bring myself to, as they say, "treat yo self". It stands for my commitment to keep learning everyday and to always be inquisitive. I was always the kid in class who asked too many questions and I realise how important it is to keep on asking questions. I just love the size of the stone and the crappy white metal has this texture that just gets better with tarnishing.

I like to wear a bandanna or silk scarf underneath them for comfort and contrast. It seems to frame the two cuffs in such a lovely way. My right wrist is a simple cross section of how I try to dress as a whole. Every piece I buy means something to me. Here in New York, whilst we are limited economically to what we can buy, space is even more a constraint. I decided that as my rolling rack takes up half my room I wanted it to be full of old friends. As with all closets it's a constant work in progress but if I believe dressing is an art form, and these are the tools in our paintbox, then they should be a well curated and useful selection." Brandon Acton-Bond

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Treasured Items... John Holt

As soon as I picked up the first issue John Holt's Law magazine (on the recommendation of Goodhood's very own Kyle Stewart) I knew that I had discovered a title with a refreshing point of view. For its editor Holt, style is everywhere - all you have to do is keep your eyes open. Law is a bi-annual magazine that revels in revealing what others miss and serves to document the ups and downs of the beautiful everyday. Unsurprisingly his 'Treasured Items' pick demonstrates that treasure can be found anywhere. From a market stall bargain, Holt has added his own personality in a similar fashion to how he has approached the print world. Here the editor shares its story...

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John Holt and his lucky charms...

"It’s my pride and joy, always close to my heart. I got the gold chain for £10 from a stall on the old Open Market in Brighton. I didn’t know how much it was worth at the time and fortunately neither did the man who was manning the stand for his wife. I was studying fashion and was therefore skint and used to spending a couple of quid on makeshift chains out of the glass cabinets in charity shops. They never lasted long and I missed the feeling of something round my neck, as those who wear a chain or a watch or a ring will know, you get used to each other. After much deliberation we did the deal and I’m pleased to say we did. Since then I’ve taken it to one of those ‘WE BUY GOLD’ kiosks and lets just say I don’t think he would have been too popular with the wife that night. All I know is it hasn’t turned to silver like the others.

My mum gave me the horseshoe that her best friend gave to her for a 21st birthday present. Some people say you shouldn’t turn horseshoes upside down because you will lose all your luck, I say it showers me with every step. The crown is from Edinburgh castle, which my pal and I visited whilst on a trip round the coast of Scotland in his Transit. I can’t speak highly enough of that country, the locals and the scenery. I guess you could also say the crown is a symbol of my love for our queen, she’s inside the back page of the magazine. I thought if she’s ever going to be in an issue then in this diamond jubilee it must be. The shell is a fossilised unicorns horn, which I found on a beach in Wales and from the acorn a mighty magazine, will grow.

Two times too many I’ve come close to losing this chain and its charms. Once after a scuffle in town and twice climbing up the old Astoria in Brighton to paste up LAW posters at night. On both occasions I’ve managed to get it back but getting away with it by the skin of my teeth like that has led me to think about stopping wearing it, because I can’t bear to go through the heart sinking feeling of losing it again. Perhaps that is the mark of a truly treasured item, too rare to find another too treasured to wear." John Holt

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Treasured Items... Simon Chilvers

As we are all shown glimpses in to the future with the unveiling of the SS13 season and as AW12 product lands on to many a shop floor, it is all too easy to become muddled and confused about the present and the past. Over the last year or so we've been asking a selection of our favourite menswear personalities to 'show and tell' their most treasured items with us. The series helps us to look back as opposed to continuously leaning forward. From wedding bands to battered sneakers, airport security puzzling bracelets to lost but not forgotten t shirts, we've shared the stories behind all manner of cherished objects.

In addition to helping us change the pace of the blog, the feature asks our invited guests to question their wardrobe and how they wear their clothes. Some treasured items have revealed themselves instantly but most have required a little more searching. For stylist and journalist Simon Chilvers, it was the latter. After much thought and searching (both wardrobe and soul), here Chilvers shares the tale of a well worn Marc by Marc Jabobs t-shirt...    

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Simon Chilvers and the old favourite designer t shirt

"Apparently when it comes to clothes I am a bit of a slut. When asked to dish my wardrobe’s most treasured, I looked at the wardrobe only to realise that there really isn’t much in there that has enough history to quantify the “treasured” tag. Yes, there’s a pair of old jeans that I always carry in hand luggage because I’ve invested too much time wearing them in to lose them to a cheap airline, and there are some trusty basics always on rotation, but when it comes to talking point clothes most of them feel too new.

In the end I chose this old Marc by Marc Jacobs t-shirt not because it’s the most brilliantly designed thing in the world – I’m not even that crazy about clowns or white t-shirts – but because there’s something youthful and rock ‘n’ roll about it. I love its old battered look. I rolled around the floor of a marquee in it during a particularly wild dance routine at one of my friend’s birthday parties and it has the faded stains to prove it. 

It also reminds me of being on holidays with its faint whiff of suntan lotion. Being so worn in and baggy its become ideal for wearing on the beach, which is really the only time I wear it in public these days.

I hold various affections for the Marc label too. It was one of the first designer brands I hankered after. I liked its quirky graphics, it’s 1970s references – I still wear an old Marc sweatshirt with a drawing of a girl’s head poking over the top of a wall that I persuaded my mum to buy me from Harvey Nicks. Neither of us had ever been into Harvey Nicks before that.

On my first trips to New York, before there was a Marc store in London, I always went to the shop on Bleecker Street where they sold loads of old tat with the MJ initials on it – mirrors, pens, condoms. I thought it was brilliant. I also bought a pair of dark red leather shoes from there, which I wore to complete death.

I wear a t-shirt most days. I’ll wear shirts, though I prefer short-sleeve ones - the best are from Marni because they’re cut loose - but I’m much happier and more comfortable in a t-shirt. Though as I get older I suppose that might change.

My current favourites are an oversized one from KIDDA by Christopher Shannon – it’s grey, blue and paisley. It also features Christopher’s initials CS on it, which also happen to be my initials in reverse. Then there’s the Christopher Kane printed “turbine” tee, which is busy and has a slightly higher neck line than your average crew – it’s a small detail but a nice one. It looks great with dark jeans. And lastly, a Dries Van Noten purple ikat print t-shirt from spring/summer 2010 - that one is the t-shirt equivalent of a comfort blanket." Simon Chilvers.

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Treasured Items... Aitor Throup

Despite existing on the periphery of the industry whilst working on other creative endeavours, few London designers have left more of an impression on contemporary menswear than Aitor Throup. From the moment he graduated from the Royal College of Art in 2006 with an MA in Fashion Menswear with an accomplished collection entitled 'When Football Hooligans Become Hindu Gods,' the industry has salivated over this great talent. But he has made them wait. Throup is a designer that will not be rushed or pushed in to anything. Everything has to be just right before he moves on it. The wait was over and duly explained in a packed presentation at St Martins Lane hotel during London Collections: Men. With a refusal to conform to fashion’s restrictive six month cycle, Tim Blanks, Sarah Mower and the designer himself discussed his philosophy before unveiling the articulated manifesto 'New Object Research' that will guide his design destiny. Parts of the industry might well have been confused but the overriding feeling was that of excitement. Throup has devised a new way of working, a fresh business model that will allow his justified design philosophy to flourish and allow people to buy his designs. Earlier this week I spent an afternoon with the designer at his Hoxton based studio and showroom but before I transcribe our long interview, I wanted to follow the lead of Throup himself by whetting your appetite with an introduction. Now, as a designer more concerned with product design than fashion, I felt the best way to help reacquaint you would be to take a look at his most treasured possession.

Born in Buenos Aires, Throup developed his passion for labels such as Stone Island and C.P. Company whilst growing up in Burnley from the age of twelve. Ultimately, it was this keen interest in the products of Massimo Osti combined with his love of drawing that led him to begin a BA in Fashion Design at Manchester Metropolitan University and on to an MA in Fashion Menswear at the Royal College of Art in London. So, it should come as little surprise that Throup treasures one of Osti's most iconic and rare of creations...

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Aitor Throup and the fibre optic jacket that lights his imagination...

"I believe that this is the first jacket ever to incorporate fibre optics and marked the twentieth anniversary of Stone Island. I just love the simplicity of it and how the light transforms it. Given that it around a decade old, it is a little broken now as some of the optics have snapped but it still continues to excite me. There's a subtlety now. It is almost eerie in a way and reminiscent of garment dying with the tonal differences of a number of fabrics. If it was just a block of blue it could be too artificial and alien to the garment but by going on and off throughout it becomes part of the garment more holistically, there's something really special about that. 

A mate of mine found it, he knew I was after one and one of his friends just so happened to have one. Another friend of mine who is one of the biggest Stone Island and C.P Company collectors and just so happens to be from Burnley like me, has got a few pieces from transformable series that Moreno Ferrari did for C.P Company that he is ready to sell, so I am getting them and I couldn't be more excited. They might not be the best pieces, like the inflatable armchair jacket, but they are awesome. Hey, they are transformables which is fucking cool! 

They are a massive part of why I became a designer, those pieces and items like the Goggle Jacket. It's all about product. If I go in there and put the jacket on, it would be nice but I almost get more enjoyment looking at them to be honest, same with Goggle Jacket I buzz of the fact that it's got a face. It's like a superhero costume. They are more valuable as objects. It is why my whole thinking isn't about styling and fashion but instead about making a cool object, suspending it and looking at it - let's geek out over it."

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