LCF MA Showcase... Antonia Lloyd

"Fun and functional" is how Antonio Lloyd succinctly describes her MA graduate collection. Casting our ever eager eye across the ocean of creative talent that is LCF, we were quickly drawn to her confident display of sartorial trickery and for us, there's so much more that can be said about this accomplished collection. Having had the pleasure of chatting through her colourfully crafted rail days before the show at London Fashion Week in the capacity of my day job at i-D, I couldn't resist delving a little deeper here.

As artfully as a board slices through surf and as skilfully as trucks glide along a rail, her work balanced and blurred the world's of tailoring and contemporary sportswear. It was the epitome of smart-casual built around the emerging talent's love of surf culture.  "I learnt to surf when I was 11 and have grown up in the age of Kelly Slater. I read his autobiography and learnt about the surfers who influenced him. Through documentaries I learnt that although the art of surfing has been around for many years the real shift in to professional competition happened around this time. 'Bustin’ Down the Door' and 'Dogtown and Z-Boys' are reflective documentaries about the era." Looking to the true pioneers of skating and surfing from the 1970s, Lloyd glided through the crashing waves of Hawaii and zipped across the dry pools of Santa Monica with a soundtrack of T. Rex and Iggy and the Stooges blasting from her headphones. From the beach to the boardwalk, inspiration was everywhere. "The year before I started the Masters I visited Australia," explains LLoyd. "I found Sydney to be inspirational, my experience of the city was one that embraced an outdoor and active life style with a city career. I wanted to try and emulate this in a collection." 

Despite fondly looking back, Lloyd's collection managed to feel as fresh and as exciting one of the majestic mavericks taming a bomb wave. Building on her internship experience at Ozwald Boateng, J.W. Anderson, Tim Soar, E. Tautz and T.Lipop along with her time at LCF, the emerging design talent created hybrid garments that focused on design for function. "I always want to be able to explain why something is the way it is. I like to design for function as well as aesthetics so I need to know why a seam is finished a certain way over another. There are lots of rules in menswear, I believe these need to be understood before you can go on to design your own thing."

"Ultimately, I didn’t want to produce a collection that resembled costume; it was important that it not look gimmicky but instead have references to sportswear of the 1970’s. Skate and surf footage both amateur and professional, enabled me to establish the needs of an athlete whilst performing.  Functionality of the garments was most important and I approached much of the designing like that of product design, first identifying needs then designing to fore fill them." From ingenius paddle panelling that enabled 360 degree movement to shirting that mixed a duo of hardy denims, waterproof board shorts to backbacks full of jungle life thanks to a Stephanie Webb print, the garments floated in a sea of delicious details. None are superflous. These are details born from the dreams and demands of her muses.

Catwalk shots courtesy of LCF. All others by Stephanie Sian Smith.

"I was inspired by the attitude of guys like Jay Adams and Ian Cairns. What you have to remember is that all these guys were very young, mid teens early twenties, they truly were going against mainstream by trying to make a career out of their sports, that must of taken some serious self belief." Much like a talented graduate paddling out in to the waters of the unknown. Has any of that self belief rubbed off on Antonio Lloyd, I ask her as the interview draws to a close. "Next is hopefully a position within a fashion house where I can continue my exploration of and education in cutting, As I mentioned in our i-D interview, I admire the likes of Hardy Amies and E. Tautz for what they are doing with a traditional tailoring label on a high fashion platform. Also designers like Christopher Kane and Jonathan Saunders, with such successful womenswear collections, are seizing the opportunity for something similarly creative within their menswear lines is really exciting and to work for someone like that would be great. Eventually the dream destination is Paris. Hopefully with maturity and experience Lanvin isn’t too unrealistic." For now, Lloyd will continue to wax her board and hone her skills in wait of the next big wave.

Mohsin AW13

"Muay Thai is a big part of my life, it keeps my mind focussed and drives that compatitive spirit inside of me," begins Mohsin Ali as we sit in his studio in the heart of East London. "Depending on seasons and work loads, I'll try and train at least four, five times a week. It's weird because I feel like a cheat if I don't! Muay Thai is like a drug. I got addicted to it at sixteen years old and to be honest I'd be lost without it!" Last summer we were offered a glimpse in to the interplay between his two seemingly disparate passions in Santiago Arbelaez's film for Hypebeast. It was a hint of the stunning things to come. For autumn/winter 13, Mohsin looks to the national sport of Thailand and its heritage.

"It is the art of eight limbs. Hands, elbows, knees and legs. It's like a game of chess, each move is as important as the next. The aim is to outwit your opponent intelligently to with the fight. Granted it's a little more lethal than chess but you get the same satisfaction of beating your opponent." As a recent hit of his favourite vice courses through his veins, it should come as little surprise that the design talent's two worlds collide so well for autumn/winter 13. It is a fight winning move that leaves this blogger out for the count. As a focused designer driven by form, fabric and function, the sport acts as the perfect foil to the designer's toil. "Muay Thai makes me think about things more, when you're training you're constantly learning no matter how experienced you are. I absorb everything like a sponge so I have to keep my mind as open as possible. This is the same approach I afford to my design work."

From built in thumb pieces to quilted linings, Mohsin Ali's debut collection for autumn/winter 11 was an exquisite showcase of the true beauty of menswear. Having been inspired by twenty first century explorers, Mohsin obsessed over the concept of integration and protective layering to create multi faceted items that blew us away. The inspiration might be different but the approach is repeated for the latest autumn/winter collection. Fuelled by his love for both traditional and technical fabrics, as well an insatiable fascination with cut and silhouette, we are once again seduced by his approach. Having watched the label grow and slowly evolve in a considered fashion since first encountering his designs, this autumn/winter collection marks a confident step forward.

Exploring sartorial notions of protection with the physical needs and demands of the sport, Mohsin produces a thirty five piece collection that plays with shape, silhouette, fabric and function. These are subtly transformative garments. Oversized quilted coats, detachable capes and belted tailoring all enable the wearer to experiment with feelings of security and presence whilst engineered sleeves with thumb pieces resemble hand wraps and typical Muay Thai shorts are repurposed in wool cashmere and styled with heavy knit leggings. The result is modern day armour. As we've come to expect from the designer, fabrics are of the highest quality whilst cut is key. Mixing both traditional and technical fabrics and by introducing embroidery, Mohsin has created a wonderfully tactile collection. The early promise of the accomplished debut has been more than fulfilled. It has been further refined and honed. Everything comes together in perfect harmony. "More than any other has managed, this collection really encapsulates my design standpoint." For this exciting talent, design should be questioned and challenged at all times and only then can you produce and create something truly special. All appliance should be for a reason. For the interested eye, the cacophony of details incessantly offer intrigue and talking points. From bondage tailoring to judo belt detailing runs subtly through many of the pieces, everything has a reason and a place.

"From Muay Thai I looked at Thai culture, the history of its dress and experimented with aspects from other martial arts disciplines, looking at how we protect and insulate ourselves. There's a wealth of information available out there but most of my research was born out of chats with the guys in the gym who are historians. A lot of the research came from two individuals in particular. Ian, who has a vast history in muay thai and thai culture in general and also Greg Wootton who is the perfect fit model. Greg is also a world and european champion at the ripe old age of 21). It's ideal for me as a lot of the younger fighters have the perfect physique as fit models, so it's great when collection time comes round. Most importantly where I train and the friends I train with are like a extended family it's always good to see them. A happy life in the gym helps me focus and think clearly when researching and designing."

Lookbook photography by David Sessions alongside my own detail shots.

"It has been a learning curve but I'm a lot more confident in everything now," Mohsin declares before taking another sip of his sweet tea. It shows. This is a justifiably confident collection. There's a daring in the design. A courage in the cloth. A certainty in the cut. A spunk in the silhouette. Ultimately it is Mohsin. His two passions stitched perfectly, his two worlds united. The personal made universal.

Inspired... Berthold AW13

"A shark's fin, a storm drain, plastic coverings and scar tissue" are just a few of the descriptions that trickle from Raimund Berthold's mouth as we sit in his central London studio to discuss Autumn/Winter 2013/14. Seemingly disparate and certainly peculiar, Berthold's latest ingredients list might unnerve a few but given his ability to balance and create beauty from the unexpected, most will be justifiably excited. As many other London designer's toil right down to the wire, praying that factories deliver missing garments in time for the big unveiling on Monday, one feels that Berthold has been ready for some time, quietly refining and perfecting his vision. Now, just days away from the launch of the new season with London Collections: Men, the blossoming design talent is keen to take another confident step forward.

To further whet our appetite, Berthold discusses his methods, updated us on his progress and allows us to take a close look at his latest shimmery wall of curiosities. Rich in detail shots and all manner of found imagery, the mood board came to life with excited narrative from the designer himself and it was impossible to leave the studio anything but inspired and excited for the fruits that the new season will bring. 

"I would describe my design process as quite organic. First, my research either entails discovering a catalyst that sparks the thought process or in other instances, I approach it with a clear mind and spend a day in the library going through book after book, collating images that do something and inspire me to start sketching. I'm drawn to anything that catches my eye and provokes a reaction, both good and bad and I see where it takes me. If something grabs my attention, I stick it on the wall and begin sketching but I sketch away from the image itself. I always keep the design quite loose initially. It is always more about a feeling, a silhouette, shape, a length or rough details.  If I get bored with it, I move on but often mutates in to something else entirely through a number of different sketches.

This season it was all about that combination of something that is strong and protective with something that is raw and softer. This idea was sparked from an image of a shark fin. It was such a powerful image, seeing the fleshy meat under the dark, thick skin. I had to put it right in the centre of the mood board as I found myself frequently returning to it. Elsewhere, I was looking at street images to help with the mood, finding things that had been discarded, walked over because I didn't want the collection to be too pretty and this ties in with the print. I'm always drawn to images of things that are covered in plastic. I like the variation and you can see a similar effect in the collection with the use of waxed cotton and nylon There's a story of crossing out and removal which evolved from a flyer. The collection is dark but rather than having a contrast of black and navy, I wanted the prints to be quite light. 

The print came from a bike ride. I was riding around Westminster close to Victoria and Scotland Yard, looked down and noticed the storm drain. It was just so beautiful. The colours were vivid and I actually had to change them a little to make the print lighter. I wanted it to feel more like a grey and wet day rather than a beautiful sunny day. To satisfy myself, we've experimented a little with a few variations throughout the collection, from small tiling to blowing it up quite large. From the orange juice of last season to the storm drain, I have no idea what will catch my eye next season. I've probably got about twenty images that I could use but I might work with the Patternity girls agin but this time, give very little input and just see what comes back, that could be fun because they've got so much energy.

I wanted to play with proportions a little bit more this season. The oversized trousers were inspired from an image that I found of a little boy in waders and there are a lot of frock coat shapes because I liked the look of garments being longer at the back than the front. They create such an interesting silhouette. Also, I was inspired by the shoulder detailing on hunting jackets but rather than be able to rest a shotgun on them, I wanted them to be functional oversized pockets and instead of leather I used a number of different materials throughout the outerwear and sweatshirts. I intentionally didn't research hunting jackets because I wanted the pieces to be very different and not copied from something quite obvious but I was drawn to a snapshot of that detail...

Snapshots of Berthold's shimmery wall of curiosities for AW13

Ideas often mutate between the garments themselves and I find that exciting. When you start working on a garment you often uncover clever additions or notice amendments that elevate it, then of course it can all change again during the first fitting. This ability to change is important to my design process. There is only finality when the last toile is made." Raimund Berthold.

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Discovering London Cloth Company and Purposeful Activity

Based in the heart of Hackney, the London Cloth Company in a wonderful surprise. Over the last few months, whispers of the existence of this flourishing micro mill located just a short jaunt from my flat have increased to sincere shouts to go and visit it from the likes of S.E.H Kelly and Daniel Jenkins,  both of which use the fabulous tweed that it produces. Having had the opportunity to travel seven hundred odd miles to experience Harris Tweed first hand, falling in with the craft in the process, it would have been ludicrous to fail to hop on the Overground for a few stops. So, as soon as I admired its fruits used in a stunning tobacco wool tweed peacoat, I popped along to explore the goings on behind its unassuming door during a festive open day at the mill last weekend.  

Nestled in a quiet residential area, the workshop is a hive of activity and a treasure trove of machinery. Daniel Harris, the one man-mill behind it all, is part weaver, part engineer. This is his passion, his life. He’s restored old equipment, gleaned advice from masters of the loom and has learnt on the job to develops fabrics for designers, tailors and interested individuals alike. "We prefer not to issue extensive swatch books as we tend to work directly with our customers to create bespoke fabrics," Harris excitedly rolls out as his mind imagines the possibilities. Possibilities that are beginning to be realised as a growing band of designers fall for the charms of his unique mill.

The workshop is home to reclaimed machinery dating from as early as 1850, and includes an ever-growing number of power looms and bobbin winders, and even a warping mill. This gives The London Cloth Company, the capability to facilitate the weaving process from start to finish. "There have been traumatic moments," admit Harris before taking a sip of mulled wine and continuing, "When I was searching for the ideal loom initially, I got a call from a man in Scotland who was retiring, 'Right, you can have it but you've got come and get is soon'. How soon I nervously asked. 'Today' came the emphatic response. Off I went, as soon as I possibly could. We left London at 6am, drove 630 odd miles and arrived at 10pm. Bearing in mind that I'd never seen such a loom in person before, I found them all grinning in the car park, pleased with themselves at taking the machine to pieces. I had to look at a few pictures." Little dampens Harris' passion for quality.

The space is home to a trio of Hattersley looms, the likes of which I've only previously seen in the shed of Donald John MacKay as I experienced Harris Tweed two years ago now, a Frankenstein's monster of a loom built from leftover parts (from the 1920s, the wartime era and the 60s or later) and a three and a half ton, semi automatic beast from Herbert Brown that caused another logistical nightmare. "We had to move this one seven hundred miles. Again, I wanted a slightly smaller one but this beauty was the only one available. It was on the third floor of a mill. I had to hire a crane to lift it out of the building, part of the roof had to removed and it then it had to be broken down into smaller parts to get it to the new home." And what a home. I can't imagine a better guardian than Daniel Harris. Allow me to take you on a little tour of his well crafted world...

Exploring Daniel Harris' impressive space and snapshots of the weaving process from a pedal powered single loom to a semi automatic monster. 

Used to travelling for my love of documenting craftsmanship, I never dreamt that I would be able to explore and document a flourishing mill located in the heart of my adopted city. As Daniel Harris' vision and capabilities evolve, I'm sure this will be the first of many visits to the London Clothing Company and the hunt begins to find similar individuals located closer to home. Helping me in this search could well be Daniel Jenkins who has just unveiled Purposeful Activity, a considered label made from British materials and with British makers, including London Clothing Company, that will sit alongside his buy from the likes of Lou Dalton, Tender and Baartmans & Siegel. Considering his pursuit of celebrating British menswear, this is a natural and well thought out evolution.

"Time and time again, I was becoming increasingly depressed by the constant chatter that you couldn’t produce unfussy, garments in this country using British materials without having to charge high prices. I felt this to be nonsense. Therefore I decided to show the fallacy of that notion." Jenkins explains. As the first few pieces go live on his site, the British menswear retailer is certainly proving a worthwhile  point.

"I don't want this to become a seasonal fashion label. If we can source a great cloth or come up with an interesting garment then we will put it into production. When it is ready, it'll go online. That's pretty much what happened with Daniel Harris. I happened upon a French blog post about him and thought I would drop him a line. Half an hour later I was stood in the factory and ten minutes after that I had ordered some fabric with no idea what to do with it. To me that's how the best things in business work. Having too much of a plan is a silly idea. It's nice to have an idea but, the ten year business plan idea doesn't apply to fashion. Ten hour business plan more like it. 

The cloth we are working with is exceptional. Same with the shirting. The best thing about both is that they will improve with age and aren't filled with an artificial story. I live - as you know - five minutes from where our cloth was woven. Our first store was about half an hour's drive from where the shirts were sewn. The factory we use in London for tailoring is great, the guys who run it know everything there is to know. Our garments made along side the biggest names."

Having known Jenkins for a number of years now and seen his unwavering support of British menswear, it is a pleasure to see him take it to the next stage. "This is truly a culmination of what we've done for the past five or so years. A chance to show off a different side of the fashion industry that many don't get to see." A side that we love to see. The fact that he was wearing two of the first items under the Purposeful Activity label, the Byron shirt and Nelson Jacket, as we explored Daniel Harris' workshop couldn't have been more perfect and I, of course, had to document it. Also, it was great to see Harris' delight at the sight of his tweed tailored in such a way...

Daniel Jenkins wearing the Byron shirt in wine Bengal and the Nelson jacket.

Daniel Jenkins has always strived to offer a retail platform for the best of British menswear and the launch of this considered collection of wardrobe staples is a Goodyear welted step forward. This might only be the beginning for Purposeful Activity and I'm keen to see how it evolves as Jenkins uncovers more makers to support and to collaborate with. But more than this, he hopes it will inspire others. I'll leave you with the below war cry.

"I'm amazed by how far British menswear has come but it still has a long way to go. Anything I can do to help I shall. Hopefully this will play a small part in getting the message out that our cloth is great, our factories fantastic and we as a nation are ready and willing to create things which will blow the world away."