Sneak Peek: John Smedley AW10

I appreciate that most of your attention will be focused on the final goings on in Milan but I'd like to divert your gaze from the European catwalks and on to an award winning heritage brand. Ever since I visited John Smedley's base deep in the Derbyshire Dales I've not looked at their knitwear in the same way. This brand may have been churning out quality knitwear for over two hundred and twenty five years. Yet, it has lost none of its passion, sense of craft and desire to innovate. For me, it is one of most unsung British brands and although it likes to go about its business quietly and assuredly, I feel like shouting from the roof tops. I therefore jumped at the chance of sharing an exclusive sneak peek at one of the images from their AW10 offering with you...

John Smedley's AW10 collection ‘The Archivist.’

For AW10 John Smedley's menswear collection draws inspiration from the personality of ‘The Archivist.’ It explores the concept of a ‘collection’ in all its guises. It blends well loved pieces with future classics to create a textural and colourful anthology reminiscent of a passionately compiled archive. The collection really taps in to my understanding of the art of wardrobe building. After all, new items should be timeless pieces which we can collect and treasure. Classic designs like the Dorset shirt and Daimler cardigan have been carried over to ensure the best selection of necklines and fits, while new silhouettes and trends compliment these well loved heritage pieces. This theme continues in to the colour palette with classic tones of charcoal, black, navy and silver running alongside new additions like rosebud and feather grey whilst stripe formulas and block patterns allow for dramatic combinations of rich hues.

The attention to detail, colour and textile which characterise John Smedley craftsmanship are all key. In combination with new and exciting developments in production technology and a few progressive design pieces, this collection is an eclectic blend of classic and contemporary, lovingly drawn together like the most memorable of archives. Before I get my hands on the rest of the look book images, this is a timely reminder that I still need to sort out my wardrobe and continue the art of wardrobe building!

Umit Benan's Retired Rockers

Umit Benan (far right) admires his retired rockers.

As well as being the Disneyland of menswear tradeshows, the Pitti foundation supports and promotes new fashion talent. Umit Benan produced his first-ever live show for his AW10/11 collection, called Retired Rockers. Now, ever since I encountered his self titled debut collection I have been a fan of Benan's desire to create garments which can be truly appreciated by the wearer. His classic tailoring and high quality garments are made to be worn. It sounds simple but it is surprising how many collections fail to consider this point. There always seem to be an ease in his look books so when I heard that he had been invited to present at Pitti Uomo I could not wait to see it.

In a recent interview with Valet, Benan remarked "the clothes are never more important than the character. I think personality comes first" and here the German born designer looks to aged musicians. The retired rockers inspiring Benan's collection are a group of musicians who made music history in the 70s and 80s. Once wild kids with no direction besides rousing an entire generation to a blaring rock beat. These rockers, think the Rolling Stones, Bob Dylan and the boss Bruce Springsteen, experienced and exceeded the limits of everything, women, money an drugs. I caught a glimpse of Ronnie Wood watching the snooker masters final last night at Wembley...I very much doubt Umit Benan's characters would be seen at such a 'sporting' event...

For his presentation at Pitti Uomo, Umit Benan assembled his vision of these old rockers thirty years on getting together at an old East Village. There to reminisce about the good old days whilst enjoying the present good life. The seasoned rockers sat around a dinner table with a couple of young band members with a few beautiful women thrown into the mix, and around them sat the audience. Despite the positive buzz around the Who's on Next menswear award the presentation itself fell a little flat apparently. Kristopher Houser reporting on A Shaded View of Fashion was one of the audience members and even though he was on the front row he felt like an outsider to the clothes. Similarly, WWD described the presentation as 'painfully awkward.' Thankfully, these look book images allow us a closer look in to the style of these aged musicians without a hint of pretension of awkwardness...

Thankfully these old rockers no longer need to wear skinny leather trousers to feel young and now prefer a relaxed, free and easy yet classy style. Retired rockers rarely grow old gracefully but Umit Benan has at least imagined them to dress just that. Fine tailoring sets the tone for the cuts and there is a continual play between slim silhouettes and soft volumes using an easy mix and match of luxurious fabrics with intense colours and innovative graphics. The designer uses the most exclusive of fabrics. From the luxurious textures of classic wools to a comfortably heavy alpaca, From soft cashmeres to shetlands. Velvet and cotton, pique and chambray, suede, pinto pony and even tyvek makes an appearance.

The colours explore the various shades of grey reminiscent of the rockers themselves, Benan introduces forest green and earthy brown, wine red and midnight blue to create a rich palette. These hues meet and mix regularly throughout the British style checks and in the regimental stripes.

An alternation of volumes is a constant theme. Tops and bottoms mix contrasting volumes. Trousers come in all forms imaginable, classic long and straight to tracksuits and pyjama bottoms to cashmere leggings with full waist, low crotch to tapering and narrow cuffs at ankles. Similarly shirts continue this put together theme which is emblematic of Benan's retired rockers wardrobe. The shirts are long and loose fitting at times, with inside out seams and distinctive stripe graphics or check prints whereas some mimic pyjama tops and others more elegant styles have faux-crushed collars. There was a definite sense that this was showcasing a wardrobe which has been built over time. The clothes were styled in a way as to suggest that pieces were thrown on look but everything worked in a wonderfully relaxed way. For more information on the collection, an interesting interview with the designer himself and a closer look at the presentation itself, head over to Dazed Digital...

I Pitti the shoe

Church's AW10. Revision of the country collection.

Pitti Uomo is the Disneyland of menswear trade shows. Now most of you are excitedly looking to the goings on in Milan but it is Pitti Uomo that opens the 2010 international fashion agenda and should not be overlooked. Unfortunately, I was once again unable to make the trip to Florence but I still long to wander the stalls and observe the impeccably dressed gentleman in all of their pomp and glory (as shot by the Sartorialist). As I sat at home feeling a little sorry for myself, Susie fortunately did make the trip and agreed to take a few crafty snaps of stalls of interest for us. In total there were seven hundred and sixty five firms and nine hundred and thirty six brands exhibiting. She recently returned, waxing lyrical about the food on offer and the style on exhibition making me all the more green eyed but she did make amends with a few footwear finds.

Church's AW10 - Pembrey Loafers in Autumnal suede

The new Church's collection presents a slight revision of the Country Collection for the coming AW10 season, styling a new of the classical derby lace up with the heavy rubber sole. A large fringe and new distressed leathers are applied to the latest model maintaining the traditional characteristics that we know and love of the brand as well as a country wintery feel.

A closer look at Church's Pembrey loafers for AW10

The Pembrey loafer is styled in a range of suede leathers of autumn hues. I might be sick of the cold weather at the moment but a part of me would love to be wearing these in a country cottage in front of a roaring fire. Oh how quintessentially British.

Eiichi Katsukawa's distressed boots.

Having informed me of the developments of a brand that I know and love, Susie then introduced me to a new name, Eiichi Katsukawa. Katsukawa's makes hand made, wonderfully distressed nibe leather brogues and boots from Tokyo...

Eiichi Katsukawa's distressed nibe leather brogues

Katsukawa fell in love with shoes when he worked in the shoe repair department at the Japanese retailer Isetan. After happy days in Tokyo he moved to Northampton to learn shoe design and its production method at "Tresham Institute Footwear" course where he met Paul Harnden. Following his graduation from the Institute he gained further experience interning for Harnden in Brighton before returning to Tokyo. From there Eiichi Katsukawa continued his passion for shoe making, creating bold and striking designs. As far as I can ascertain from his website, the brand is only stocked at United Arrows in Tokyo.

Luxe hiking boots from F.lli Giacometti Marmolada

The final Pitti footwear find are these interestingly luxe hiking boots from F.lli Giacometti Marmolada. Over the last twelve months we have seen the continued rise of work wear and hiking boots in a number of guises (some bordering on the ridiculous) have been lauded. However, I've not seen any as interesting as these from this Italian heritage brand. After abusing the Google translation tool I have managed to find out that F.lli Giacometti Marmolada remains the only brand in Northern Italy's Dolomites region and was founded in 1890. The boots combine authentic history and smart design. I might not be about to book myself a walking holiday just yet but I am keen to find out more about these boots.

A closer look at F.lli Giacometti Marmolada's trekking boots.

The dandy goes global

Fine and Dandy goes global.

We have often said that it is the small details which are so often overlooked and neglected which can transform any mediocre outfit in to something special. Given this belief it was no surprise that we fell for the accessory charms of online store Fine and Dandy. Back in June we caught up with proprietor, Matt Fox, for a transatlantic natter to learn more about the store and we liked what we heard. Like us, Matt has an appreciation for the well dressed gentlemen of yesteryear and is inspired by their unabashed use of accessories, so this is what he stocks in his marvelous online store. Fine and Dandy is a shop which provides all the finishing details to truly be fine and dandy. Since we wished them a very happy first birthday, we've been drooling over their selection of accessories whilst declaring my intent to add more layers to my everyday outfit. There was one negative though..it did not ship internationally. Oh woe was us, there was just so much dandy to covet but it was out of reach...until now. To celebrate the milestone of international shipping, Fine and Dandy are offering free shipping on orders of $100 plus up until Friday, January 22, 2010. To take advantage of this offer all you have to do is enter the promo code "StyleSalvage". The dandy goes international.

The man who shot the 60s

William Burroughs (1960)

Me unwell is not a pretty sight. For the past week or so I have been feeling sorry for myself. In between sleeping too much and dashing to the toilet (too much information? Sorry!) I have been catching up on missed shows to help pass the time. One of the real highlights was BBC4's The Man Who Shot the 60s (currently on iplayer). Brian Duffy was one of the greatest photographers of his generation and part of the one "terrible trio." He defined the image of the 1960s and was as famous as the stars he photographed. However, until this show I had never heard of him. The show explores his fall from view and follows his preparation for the first exhibition of his work whilst reminding me of the sixties style that I love and showing off some favourite style icons.

Reggie Kray and grandfather (1964)

Duffy was one of three photographers who helped capture and shape the vibrancy of London in the swinging sixties. Throughout his career Duffy worked non stop, celebrity, fashion, advertising he did it all. Quickly establishing himself as one of the stars of the scene in sixties London.

Michael Caine (1964)

Throughout the 60s and 70s Duffy’s career soared as he shot close cropped images with exaggerated angles for fashion magazines, minimalist studio portraits with white backgrounds, stylish Pirelli calendars and award winning commercials. Then, in 1979, Duffy snapped. Built a bonfire and began to throw his negatives into the flames. Thankfully a number of negatives were saved but these languished in boxes until 2007. Then Duffy’s son recognised their value and began work on reminding us of his father's talent.

Sidney Poitier (1965)

With the shots of Michael Caine and Sammy Davis Jnr I am reminded of the sartorial wizard that was Doug Hayward who dressed both of these men. Hayward was the tailor of the swinging 60s. The working class hero advocated that a well cut suit can transform a man, yet you should never notice the suit but instead notice only the man. He upheld the centuries old British tradition in which male style ascends, and transcends classes.

Sammy Davis Jr and May Britt (1960)

It is difficult to talk about Duffy without situating him alongside his peers, which inevitably means David Bailey and Terence Donovan. Hopefully this show will help restore his status in this 'terrible trio.' They all helped shape a mostly mythical image of London in the 1960s, where fun and sex could be had, where dreams could come true. Still, the tailoring and style was real.

Vogue (1964)

Time for action

Time for action? Drawstring sheer top by Omar Kashoura.

After the month of excess that is December, every New Year brings a few heavy breaths and much belly surveying followed by the utterance that 'I'm going to be more active this year." Perhaps you profess that you will join a gym, take up pilates or jogging, or maybe you'll just cycle to work more often. Unfortunately these will end up either being short lives promises or downright lies on the most part. However, do not despair and throw down your skipping rope accepting your tubby fate before replacing it with a super deluxe chocolate eclair. You can look to the Spring Summer 09 shows for inspiration. Fashion156 have just unveiled the Sports Issue which is packed full of fashion inspired by and celebrating in those sweaty, active pursuits it tends to avoid. The time to be more active, or at the least appear so...is now.

From left to right. White neoprene shirt by Yang Li, black trousers by Matteo Bigliardi. Jacket by Yang Li shorts by Nicomede. Vest by Yang Li and shorts by Nicomede. Charcoal suit by Yang Li.

As we have all come to expect from our favourite online magazine, the real highlight can be found within the editorial pages. The sport inspired Fashion section showcases LFW favourites Carolyn Massey, Tim Soar, Lou Dalton and Satyenkumar along with emerging design talent including the likes of Omar Kashoura and Georgy Baratashvili whilst throwing up the freshest talent with Nicomede Talavera (current CSM student we caught up with last autumn) and Yang Li. This is the type of fashion which I'm prepared to run to the bus for.

Navy shorts and navy sliced tee by Lou Dalton

As soon as I flicked through the latest issue my mind raced back to an article I read by Dean Mayo Davies which talked about the tension that now exists in fashion. The confrontation between the sartorialism of the gentleman and the most active and reactive codes of sportswear. In the post he includes a comment by Casette Playa's Carri Mundane which keeps playing on my mind;

"It's a privilege to not have to wear a suit but still be in a position of power. The same way that working-class mods subverted the suit, taking the attributes of conformity by charging them with menace and the threat of violence. Sportswear now is no longer about performance but a refusal to conform."

A number of the more progressive SS10 shows (Ann Demeulemeester, Giuliano Fujiwara, Calvin Klein, Juun J, JW Anderson, Damir Doma to name but a few) demonstrated graphic shapes, bold attitudes and even more interestingly tech derived fabrics. Despite the obvious tension within the different schools of fashion, I am enjoying watching these two aesthetics challenge and push one another forward on the runway and on the street.

Black trousers and blue jacket by Carolyn Massey.

Rediscovering Zinif

EJ has had a particular Korean online store bookmarked for some time now. Zinif has long been one of her favourites. Not because she has pocketful of Korean Won but purely because the site provides so much style inspiration. Long before the inception of this blog she used to send links to her wonderful finds as we both whiled away time at our day jobs. Every once in a while she rediscovers this online store and falls in love with it again, prompting another flurry of emails and reminding me how different it is to anything we use closer to home. This is online window shopping at its very best. To celebrate the old days, we thought we would invite you in to our little world and share our favourite looks along with our own excited ramblings with you...

EJ: I think that I like this look so much as it reminds me of Fantastic Mr Fox... an obvious connection given the fox tail accessory (I'm going to pretend that it's faux fur, because I really don't like real fur, it gives me the creeps). I love the gloves and the jacket, particularly the shoulder detail on the jacket. I've not seen a seen a polo neck worn this convincingly by a man in real life so far.
Steve: There can be little doubt that this look was inspired by Wes Anderson's vision of Roald Dahl's fantastic fox. After I watched this film, I came out of the cinema desperate to dress in such an immaculate, well tailored double breasted corduroy suit and (posted as such). Now, I would rarely recommend attaching any form of tail to a pair of washed jeans but I am prepared to make an exception here. The tail is quite unexpected but strangely works. Plus it so much better than the fox tail ties Opening Ceremony gave away. I too would like to think that the fox tail shown here is faux fur but a part of me really doesn't care because it is amazing!

EJ: I just love this jacket. I'm not sure how many men could pull it off, but that's not what window shopping's about for me. I think it would look great with a bit of costume jewellery pinned onto the lapel. Great bag too but I still don't really like pointy shoes.
Steve: The jacket is a little too much for me but it works on this dandy chap. I can actually see We Could Grow Up Together's Kwannam Chu rocking this look.

Steve: I am currently a little obsessed with double breasted jackets. On the right guy they can look amazing. I don't care what anyone says, well cut double breasted jackets look fabulous and this one looks great and is styled extremely well. I see so many terribly dressed guys on the tube each morning, I wish more looked half as god as this chap.

EJ: He really doesn't care what anyone says- I have been quietly nay saying most double breasted jackets for a while now to try and counteract his obsession. This look is okay I suppose at is nicely fitted...

EJ: Such a Stars Wars outfit for me. This amount of draping looks best in black I think... this is actually quite a lot like what I wear! I'd love to see more guys drifting around town like this on colder days, but I suspect that might be the goth in me coming out.
Steve: You know how much I love a Star Wars inspired outfit and this is my favourite pick of the bunch! If I had my way, this type of look would become my winter uniform. Actually, this is the type of look I think of when I think about South Korean fashion. I remember a well written piece in the New York Times which discussed how the country is shaping up as the next hotbed of innovative menswear, citing the likes of local talent Juun J and successful imports like Christophe Lemaire. This reminds me that I need to visit Seoul this year.

EJ: I want the scarf and gloves, but above anything else, I want this model's perfect skin."
Steve: The accessories steal the show here as they transform a well layered look in to something special. The scarf in particular is amazing and I want it too.

Unfortunately our knowledge of Korean is relatively limited (read that as non-existent) but we would like to inform the chaps at Zinif the following; "Onnimneun gamgagi joesineyo" which roughly translates as "You have great taste in clothes."

Style Salvage Speaks to... Chris & Tibor

Chris&Tibor is an East London based fashion brand which has been quietly creating quality leather bags and accessories since 2006. The brand is the combined result of designer Chris Liu's quest to own the perfect gym bag and fellow partner Tibor Matyas' desire to create a comprehensive and stylish bag collection for men. The last couple of seasons have seen the label collaborate with some of the most exciting names in menswear, including Veronique Branquinho (sadly no longer with us) Juun J and Romain Kremer and providing some real catwalk highlights in the process. Their standalone AW09 collection, “The Krays Meet Teddy Boys" received a great deal of blog coverage and ever since we clapped eyes on it we wanted to know more about the label. As they enter their seventh season, 2010 looks to be an exciting year for the design duo and sees them launch their e-store, whilst continuing their collaboration project by working with Walter Van Beirendonck and even sees them turn their hand to bags for women. With this is mind, we caught up with the guys to find out more on how their accessory brand has evolved over the last few seasons and look forward to what the future will bring...

A leading image from the Aw09 look book, The Krays Meet Teddy Boys.

SS: The label evolved from Chris' seemingly simple quest for the perfect gym bag. How did this quest evolve in to the brand we see today?
Chris&Tibor: We made the first few bags mainly for ourselves in 2006 which when you think about it is not a long time ago. Despite that, the collection you see today are very different from the first one. Chris&Tibor bags have become fashion forward and creative pieces compared with the practical leather gym bags we made initially. We could not resist using and mixing some unusual materials with leather on the bags. This bravery could be a major factor as to why the label has become successful and known within the fashion industry, in a relatively short period of time. This year you will see "Back to the start" - a limited edition of bags are launching soon on our e-shop. It will be a selection of bags from our first collection with some developments and updates.

SS: What was the first and last item you remember designing?
Chris&Tibor: The first item has to be the gym bag. At the moment we are heavily working on our first bag collection for women. We are really excited about this development.

SS: How would you describe your style and your design philosophy?
Chris&Tibor: Our style is minimalist but also sophisticated, sporty but also fashionable, casual but also luxurious. The design of our bags are challenging and exclusive. If you choose to carry a Chris&Tibor bag it is a statement about who you are. But for sure, you will get lots of compliments.

SS: Do you have a typical type of person in mind when designing and if so does this evolve with each season?
Chris&Tibor: We have always designed bags that we would carry ourselves, not really thinking of anybody else during the design process. Of course we are also listening more and more to our customer feedback but ultimately, we have to love each Chris&Tibor bags we create. Designing is a personal process, it reflects upon who we are and our style.

SS: As well as your own successful line, you have collaborated with some amazing designers, for SS09 alone you worked with Juun J (and again last season), Veronique Branquinho and Romain Kremer. How important is collaboration to the label? Who would you love to collaborate with in the future?
Chris&Tibor: The collaboration project started as a playful idea with a few designers who are also our personal friends. It is so much fun and really exciting to see what another designer has to say about a bag. Collaboration is a great form of development. All parties can learn a lot from one another. The bags are selling well and the collaborations have became a big part of the Chris&Tibor branding strategy. For this season there is a brand new collaboration with Walter Van Beirendonck. The bags are part of Walter's ready to wear collection and will be showing at Paris Fashion Week. The dream list for future collaborations is rather endless but it includes brands like Adam Kimmel, Tim Hamilton, Damir Doma, and Robert Geller. We are also thinking about some womenswear designers and some fashion shops too. Apart from collaborations with fashion designers, there are projects coming up this year which see us collaborate with a music band and an illustration artist.

A fine piece from their SS10 line, the Milton Court. A multi pocket shoulder holdall teaming up Italian vegetable and patent leather.

SS: Your are tightly linked to East London, living and designing there and even naming your designs after streets, areas and buildings in the area. What makes the area so special to you?
Chris&Tibor: East London is where Chris&Tibor brand was born. Just this fact would make the area special and memorable for us. But East London is an interesting location, it is just so fun to live and work. Diverse, creative and never dull. East London has so much history and a bright future!

SS: In recent years there has undoubtedly been an increased interest and demand for bags in men's fashion. However, do you, like us, cringe at the terms bandied about in the press though, for example murse, manbag etc? How do you see the demand evolving over the next few years?
Chris&Tibor: As you said there has been a huge interest and demand for bags for men in recent years. To serve this sudden interest, lots of new accessory collection labels have come from nowhere. Plus if you look around almost all the ready to wear labels have got their own accessory collections by now. This will of course affect the next few years. There is no such thing as endless demand. The men's accessory market is over crowded today, if you are looking to buy a bag, you have got plenty of choice.

SS: What item of clothing (if any) do you wish that more men wore?
Chris&Tibor: A trench coat

SS: What bag did you carry with you today? What was inside it?
Chris&Tibor: "Moorgate" backpack, a really cool and exclusive piece from the Chris&Tibor collection. It comes in a lots of variations, but mine is black leather contrast with black/silver film. I carried my gym stuff.

The Moorgate backpack from their AW09 collection

SS: If you could go back in time and experience any fashion moment, what would it be?
Chris & Tibor: Naomi Campbell falling on the runway in Paris. As she was not hurt in the end, it must have been fun to watch :)

SS: Have you got any recommendation that you'd like to share with our readers? (shops, hairdressers, designers, websites, bars)
Chris & Tibor: Billingsgate fish market is great fun on Saturday morning and if you are shopping there it would keep you occupied until lunch, The Narrow Boat's balcony overlooking the Regent Canal on sunny weekends and the Lemon Monkey fine food shop in Stoke Newington.

SS: Now this is your chance to ask yourself and answer the one question you wish you had been asked but have never had the opportunity to do so.
Q to Chris: What would you do if you are not running Chris&Tibor brand?
Chris: I would be a farmer.

SS: Finally, what exciting things are on the horizon for Chris & Tibor? What can you tell us about next season?
Chris & Tibor: The most exciting thing is our e-shop. We have been doing wholesales in the past seven seasons and we realised that there is no future in fashion without a mono brand store. We see the e-shop as a first step towards our own retail outlet. We hope one day soon we can talk about the opening of the first Chris&Tibor shop in London.

Walter Van Beirendonck is the latest cult designer label for Chris&Tibor Collaboration Project.

To celebrate the launch of their official Facebook page, Chris&Tibor are offering their fans a chance to win a black "Spitalfields" tote made of Italian leather. For more information and for your chance to win please visit their blog.

Tools to take care

Protecting the shape of the Stingray Orwell's.

Over the last twelve months my addiction to quality shoes has spiralled and is well documented on the blog. Now that I have amassed a collection that I can be truly proud of I want them all to last for as long as possible and be value for money. Now, EJ knows about my addiction all too well and used this as a basis for my Christmas present as she succeeded in giving me the tools to look after my shoes. If we have learnt anything this year about the upkeep of footwear it is that shoe trees are vital. When we spoke to Nathan Brown at Lodger he declared that "a proper shoe tree will make sure your shoes last longer than anything else you could possibly do" and with this in mind every pair of Lodgers comes complete with a pair of bespoke shoe trees which are made from the original last used to make the shoes. Unfortunately not all shoe brands offer this service and aside from the ones which came with my striped oxfords, my other shoes were not protected ...until EJ ventured on to eBay for my Christmas present and found two wonderful but very different shoe trees. After a little searching, you can find a quality pair of second-hand shoe trees for a reasonable price. The above cedar pair fit my Stingray Orwells perfectly and I could not be more pleased knowing that the shape of my Stingray uppers now have greater protection.

Shoe tree or instrument of torture?

Now, the second pair of shoe trees initially appeared to be an instrument of torture but they are beautiful. Unfortunately they are a little small to stretch the bridge of any of my shoes but Susie has had her grubby mitts on them and they are currently inside of her Irregular Choice patent brogues. EJ continued the shoe protection theme throughout my stocking fillers and I now have a well stocked draw of leather and suede protection! I promise to research the best shoe shining tips over on the ever informative Gentleman's Corner (taking particular notice of the Value & Longevity column). To ensure that I am fresh and raring to go for the new week ahead I think it is time to visit my draw to get the slyvette cloth out for a spot of polishing...

Well stocked polishing draw.

Looking forward to Spring thanks to Lemaire

Christophe Lemaire SS10

Oh my, it is damn cold today. I ventured outside for the briefest of strolls and my face almost froze giving me a permanent grimace which would scare off even the bravest of children. Given that it is so grim outside, I am daydreaming of warmer days and right on time, I bumped in to Christophe Lemaire's SS10 look book over on The Fashionisto. Back in August I declared that Lemaire's AW09 collection was one of my favourites. The relaxed volume and rich natural textures demonstrated a wonderful blend of western and eastern references and thankfully this theme has continued through in to his minimalist vision for next season. With each season, Lemaire creates a contemporary and essential wardrobe by putting together the clean and calm lines of western wardrobe and traditional eastern garments.

I loved how his Aw09 collection appeared extremely comfortable and fluid. How could you not want to wrap up in cotton fleece, judo fabrics, silk, linen and woolen tweed? Now, his interest for functional clothes, workwear and uniforms inspires an altogether lighter offering but equally as lust worthy. I love how the collection interchanges fitted and relaxed tailoring using a somewhat serene colour palette, with soft blues mixed with delicate beiges and whites. The images make me think of Ayn Rand's The Fountainhead, I'm not certain why but this could be explained by the sleekly minimal yet practical workwear.

Next time I'm in Paris (sometime soon) I definitely plan on stopping by his boutique on Rue de Poitou. In the meantime, I am just going to have to experiment with this colour palette using COS' SS10 line...

The London Cut

An informative look at Savile Row Bespoke Tailoring. James Sherwood's The London Cut.

From this blogs very inception I have professed my admiration for bespoke tailoring and my musings often lead me to one street, Savile Row. It is a unique street, located in the heart of Mayfair just yards from the luxury retail of Bond Street and hidden from the consuming madness of Oxford Street. I currently have a seemingly unquenchable thirst to add to my knowledge of the intriguing art of tailoring and thanks to one of my Christmas stocking fillers from Susie, I can become fully rehearsed in the happenings on Savile Row after reading The London Cut. Inside these two hundred and fifty pages James Sherwood reflects on the dissolute and distinguished customers who have walked through Savile Row bespoke tailors' doors over the past two centuries whilst considering the past, present and future for Savile Row.

Cary Grant wearing a Prince of Wales checked jacket - tailor Kilgour, French and Stansbury. Charles Dickens - tailor Henry Poole & Co.

Is there another street where the history and mystery of men's style meet as grand as London's Savile Row? James Sherwood who penned this fully illustrated book asks this very question and the answer is a resounding no. If any of you doubt this point I implore to read this book and allow the knowledgeable Sherwood guide you through this famous street, its skilled inhabitants and a look at its clientele. The book is the first portrait of modern Savile Row written in English and contains detailed information on London's premier tailors whilst including marvellous images of Savile Row past and present. The master tailors of Savile Row have dressed the famous and infamous from all over the world, quietly and assuredly satisfying demand for the Row's touch of elegance and English eccentricity.

Madonna wearing a tweed three piece - tailor Henry Rose. Winston Churchill in that iconographic propaganda pose - tailor Henry Poole & Co.

The street has been the spiritual home of bespoke tailoring for two centuries measuring up practically everyone who is anyone in world history, politicians, film stars, heads of state or fashion icons. One of my favourite facets of the book are its images which document the notorious and celebrated men who were regular customers of the Row. Admiral Lord Nelson, the Duke of Wellington, Rudolf Valentino, Pablo Picasso, Marlene Dietrich, Winston Churchill, Fred Astaire, Frank Sinatra, Sir Laurence Olivier, Alfred Hitchock, Cary Grant, John Lennon, Mick Jagger, Madonna, Jude Law and Daniel Craig to name just very few.

Gary Cooper - tailor Anderson & Sheppard. Fred Astaire in Top Hat - tailor Kilgour. Tom Ford - tailor Anderson & Sheppard.

As much as I enjoy looking back at these images, it has to be pointed out that Savile Row is certainly more than a piece of history, more than just a name. It is a community and a world respected standard, the gold standard of handcrafted tailoring. Long may it thrive and be celebrated.

Style Stalking... The Dandy Project

Now that the festive break is well and truly behind us, it is time for us to put down those Turkey sandwiches and lurk in the shadows once more and enjoy one of our favourite past times, style stalking. It has been some time since we enjoyed a bit of style stalking and we have a real treat for you, Izzy from The Dandy Project. Our blog roll is constantly evolving as we stumble across new favourite reads and bid a fond farewell to the ones which are sadly no longer with us but The Dandy Project is one which has been an ever present fixture. Izzy's knowledge, enthusiasm and willingness to experiment with the odd DIY is a daily inspiration and if you've not checked out his blog, you surely must. Below is an introduction from the man himself followed by his seven day style diary...

I did this from Christmas day to New Year's Eve and I was inspired by the fact that while I'm home in Manila for the holidays, I can step out of the house without having to put on layers upon layers of clothing. I kept everything cool and breezy for the most part and I threw in a few recommendations here and there.

Day One: I spent Christmas morning at the supermarket, shopping for things to cook on Christmas day dinner.

Outfit: Super sunglasses, top from Urban Outfitters, J Crew khakis, Opening Ceremony desert boots

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Day Two: Running errands. I was feeling a little (too) folksy

Outfit: Zara cardigan, vintage t-shirt from San Francisco, Topman necklace and belt, round glasses from The Garment District (one of my most favorite vintage/costume stores in the Boston area.) shorts from Urban Outfitters, Casio watch, Zara shoes

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Day Three: Fooling around on the balcony of my parents' new flat...

Outfit rundown: Ray-Ban wayfarers, Dean and Trent v-neck (one of my favorite Filipino bands for basics), J Crew anchor belt, H&M green pants, Timberland lug-soled boat shoes

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Day Four: Grabbing coffee with a friend

Outfit: Super sunglasses, DIY whistle necklace, Urban Outfitters t-shirt, J Crew khakis, Casio watch, Vans shoes

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Day Five: At a homecoming party I threw for my friends. The theme was "raunchy", and I decided to go the subversive, subtle route...

Outfit: DIY Zara shirt (inspired my Mcqueen 2010), Topman necklace, Casio watch, Margiela nail ring, H&M jeans, Philippine-made boots from Cubao X (my favorite place to go for locally made leather goods and young designer clothing).

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Day Six: Dinner and drinks out

Outfit: Boater hat from The Garment District, XXL button-down shirt from H&M, tailor-made black skinnies, Bottega Veneta penny loafers

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Day Seven: New Year's Eve dinner at Le Souffle which offers great and reasonably-priced French fare in the Philippines.

Outfit: Tailor-made canvas blazer, Zara shirt, Husam El Odeh for Topman pin, Comme des Garcons belt, H&M pants, B. Store blue suede boots

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