Introducing... Jacket Required

Over the lifetime of the blog I've covered a number of menswear tradeshows and have clocked up more airmiles than posts in the process. I've perused Paris' double offering of (capsule) and Rendezvous, wandered in wonder at Florence's Pitti Uomo and burrowed deep in to Berlin's Bread&Butter to name but a few. As cities across the continent have grown and evolved a number of well attended tradeshows, London has sadly lurked in the shadows and been left lacking. Thankfully, three well respected names synonymous with London menswear have united to fill the void. Born from a collaborative idea between Mark Batista, Andrew Parfitt and Craig Ford, Jacket Required is a welcome response to the increasing demand amongst international and domestic buyers for a dedicated under-one-roof destination during the real buying season.

Over the weekend of the seventh and eighth of August, Jacket Required will take over the Rochelle School and will feature over thirty five brands. The list is a drool inducing mix of established and emerging labels including familiar favourites such as Pointer, Penfield, Garbstore and Chapman Bags, US brands including anything, Gourmet and Raleigh Denim who will also be showing alongside Japanese brands such as Bedwin and The Heartbreakers who have been persuaded to show in Europe for the very first time. With the momentous weekend approaches, we caught up with trio of minds behind the show to discuss it in more detail...

Jacket Required's Mark Batista, Craig Ford and Andrew Parfitt.

SS: What were your inspirations, your dreams, and the driving catalyst behind Jacket Required?

Jacket Required: Going to all the fantastic shows around the world and realising a huge need for something of the same standard in London. We all had a common belief that London was lacking and greatly deserved a credible and relevant men's tradeshow to reflect the strength of what is happening in the UK market right now. London fashion is fantastic at the moment and the UK has some amazing stores, some don't travel abroad so now they can get the same experience at Jacket Required.

SS: How did the three of you come together for this project?

Jacket Required: We all knew each other personally and what each of us were doing in the UK market. After a discussion over a couple of pints one night, we found that we were on the same page within our views and set about launching Jacket Required.

SS: Can you tell us a bit about the dynamic that exists between you?

Jacket Required: Between the three of us, we are all able to bring our individual strengths and experience to the show.

SS: What does Jacket Required mean to each of you?

Jacket Required: A coming together of like minded sought after brands, retailers and individuals to offer an appropriate setting for business to be conducted.

SS: For us, Jacket Required is a much needed and fitting drive to renew the credibility of trade shows in our corner of the world. In your opinion, why has London been left in the shadows of the menswear buying season in recent years?

Jacket Required: Following the demise of TBC, buyers have just got used to going abroad to the shows as nothing else replaced it. The likes of Berlin, Paris and Florence became even stronger in their offering of men's brands and with the quality of store buyers that attended these European shows constantly improving, London was left behind and became irrelevant, both in the minds of international and domestic brands and retailers. With our relationships in the industry, every brand we approached could see where we were coming from in striving to put London back on the circuit.

SS: How have you approached Jacket Required to differentiate it from tradeshows across the continent and beyond?

Jacket Required: Between the three of us, we have been to every men's show that has been showing SS2012 collections and whilst there is an amazing selection of brands at all of these shows, there seems to be no surprises. We have strived to offer new labels in to the UK/European market that have either never shown in Europe before, or in some cases, have never shown anywhere in the world before. We have a long list of world exclusives at jacket Required that will not have been seen at any trade show until now. At Jacket Required we will always work in this way p keep sourcing emerging collections but also strike a balance with proven winners.

SS: How has the reaction been from brands, buyers and press alike been?

Jacket Required: Unbelievable! Everyone I have spoken to is really excited about the whole project. The goodwill and positivity has been really overwhelming.

SS: The list of participating brands is a drool inducing mix of established and emerging labels. Is there anything that you are particularly excited to show?

Jacket Required: We collectively believe in the formula to a successful and interesting (for buyers) show is to have a combination of cutting edge and exclusive yet proven, credible money makers available. We are one hundred per cent excited and proud to have every brand in the show and do not feel we have compromised in any way. It is a great line up and we thank everyone for their support.

SS: What attracted you to the Rochelle School?

Jacket Required: We initially had a three thousand square feet gallery on Redchurch Street which fell through but this proved to be a blessing in disguise as it led us to find Rochelle School (a redeveloped Victorian Junior School) just around the corner. The whole area is a huge inspiration and will continue to be over the next few years, especially in menswear. We believe the location and its surroundings will be an added bonus for the buyers and press that attend.

SS: Finally, how do you see the tradeshow developing over the next couple of seasons and beyond?

Jacket Required: We are looking to double the amount of exhibitors for the AW2012 exhibition and beyond that, we will just take it one show at a time. In saying that, we already have lots of interest from brands who want to sign up for the second show so we will certainly grow, the main thing is ensuring that the right balance is struck.

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During the build up to Jacket Required we will speak to a number of our favourite brands and will preview their SS12 collections.

The Savile Row Cutter

The last few weeks have whizzed right by me leaving little but a confused, exhausting blur in its wake. However, one recent bit of post sent from blog friend Hormazd Narielwalla has helped provide a much needed change of pace. Whenever I've been able to grab a few moments rest, I've reached for The Savile Row Cutter to help transport me to a different world, the enchanting world of bespoke tailoring.

Now, regular readers should be familiar with the captivating work of Hormazd Narielwalla. After successfully completing a Masters in Fashion Enterprise & Design at Westminster, he assumed a position at the prestigious Savile Row civil, military and sporting tailor, Dege & Skinner, where he soon developed an appreciation for bespoke tailoring. I first encountered the work of Narielwalla gracing the walls of "A Fairytale About Fashion", an exhibition which ran during the festive season of 2008. His Dead Man’s Patterns project was a design story that took its inspiration from a set of bespoke patterns belonging to a deceased customer. In his quest for artistic creativity, he forages for forms in historic tailoring archives and through his visuals narrates previously untold stories. His second publication entitled The Savile Row Cutter takes his bespoke love affair one step further.

Released next month, The Savile Row Cutter documents the tailoring memoirs of Michael Skinner, Master Cutter and Chairman of Dege & Skinner. It charts Skinner's progress from apprentice tailor through to Managing Director and Chairman. Michael Skinner’s enthralling career started in 1952 when he joined the family firm as an eighteen year old and he has since trained a great number of the bespoke tailors currently plying their trade on the Row. Told through his craft and written ‘in conversation’ with Michael, Narielwalla's text provides a fascinating insight into the life and work of a Master Tailor who has been at the forefront of bespoke tailoring for more than fifty years.

London’s Savile Row is renowned for bespoke tailoring. It continues to be the focal point of gentlemen’s tailoring and the reason is dedicated craftsmen like Michael Skinner who help keep its tradition alive and standards high. For anyone as equally enchanted by the world of the Row and its talented inhabitants, The Savile Row Cutter is a must read.

Details... Affordable Hermes

A trio of colourful Hermes badges teamed up with a pair of striking pair of shorts from H&M in a particularly Hermes-esque hue of orange.

Jonathan Saunders SS12

As I wearily staggered from showroom to showroom on a ridiculously hot and sweaty weekend in Paris last month I encountered a number of reasons to be excited for SS12. None more so than Jonathan Saunders' menswear. Now, ever since Saunders burst on to the womenswear scene with his graduate collection from CSM in 2002, the design talent has caused much excitement and fanfare. His intricately engineered graphic prints in a kaleidoscopic of colour have made him a real highlight on the LFW schedule. Having already dipped his toe in the inviting waters of menswear with a few complimentary looks within his runway shows (most recently AW11), this season sees the Scottish born designer jump right in with surprising aplomb.

As in his recent womenswear collections, Saunders offers a clean and concise statement as he applies his well honed design signature to true classics of menswear. The peacoat, trench coat and relaxed tailored pieces are all given a decidedly Saunders twist. His trademark print is of course in evidence. One flourish looks like Victorian wallpaper. However, it is in the more subtle variants where the pieces really shine, as in a striped shirt which showcases a delicate engineered jacquard. For me, the real highlights are the tan outerwear pieces that are brought to life with flashes of aqua. We've come to expect these assured games with print and colour blocking from Saunders' womenswear but it is a real treat to see them employed so well here. Now, I could wax lyrical about the collection but this is a collection that talks for itself. Without further ado, here is a selection of imagery. The following combination of supplied look book images and my own close up shots will surely get you all drunk on a heady cocktail of luxe staples and stunning details...

Look book images courtesy of Jonathan Saunders, close up shots taken by me at the Paris showroom.

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We have long declared that the real beauty of menswear is in the details and will never tire of taking the time to celebrate the finer details of men's style. Jonathan Saunders' full menswear debut is certainly a reason to blow up the balloons and pin up the bunting.

Him/She

For the last few seasons Tim Soar has busied himself with examining and reinterpreting the true classics of menswear, appropriating hits and remixing them to his own tune to much acclaim. Since AW10, the designer has condensed the last one hundred and fifty years of menswear, picking out key pieces and exploring the shifts in the social constructs of masculinity as he goes, to create collections fit for any modern day gentleman. Soar has ultimately produced collections which feel warm and familiar, those which have many overlapping memories and echoes from the past yet, at the same time still feel modern. Thankfully, this is a process that he continues for AW11 but this time, he offers a carefully crafted concept of a functional wardrobe where many of the styles are available for women. Despite being grounded in menswear, Him/She is as much for women as it is for men. The design talent has managed to strike a perfect balance between menswear and womenswear, masculine and feminine.

"It's not always about androgyny, but more about taking the density of menswear fabrics and textures and the construction of men's clothes and incorporating that into women's apparel. I've changed the process of the pattern, but tried to retain my masculine heritage."

Tim Soar speaking to Vogue.com

Susie and I were keen to explore and experiment with the collection and kindly, Soar agreed to loan us a few pieces. Over the course of five outfits, we each integrate one piece from the Him/She collection with items of our own wardrobe. I have to confess to feeling a bit like David before he took on Goliath because Susie's wardrobe dwarfs mine but we both manage to stamp our own style on each look. Without further ado, here is our Soar-off...

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The bomber jacket

Him: Discovered jumper, Comme des Garcons shirt, Albam trousers, Grenson boots. She: Vintage shirt, J.W. Anderson skirt, Prada brogues.

 I love the jackets mix of influences, it is a hybrid of some many classics.
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Topcoat in heavy melton with bonded cotton sleeves

Him: WA Woods & Woods shirt, Bunney stud, Tim Soar jumper, Wooyoungmi trousers, Lodger boots. Her: Junya Watanabe frilled dress, Yves Saint Laurent sheer trousers, Miista ankle boots.

The moment I saw this piece at Soar's presentation in the Navy Board Room's I wanted it and now that I've slipped myself in to, the crush has developed in to all consuming love.
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The knit

Him: Wooyoungmi trench coat, Reiss trousers, bStore shoes. Her: Meadham Kirchhoff shorts, Zanita x Funkis clogs.

I love how the colour block of yellow has transformed this everyday knit in to something quite spectacular.
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The Velcro-waisted tuxedo trouser

Him: ASOS Black coat, Baartmans and Siegel shirt, Baartmans and Siegel x Grenson shoes. Her: Uniqlo oxford shirt, Aqua leather t-shirt, J. Lindeberg silk scarves, Dries Van Noten shoes.

I was a little apprehensive about the fit of these trousers but these negative thoughts soon evaporated the moment I saw my reflection in the mirror.
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Leather varsity jacket

Him: 3.1 Phillip Lim shirt, Bunney stud, Tim Soar trousers. Her: Vintage Gucci floral jacket, vintage skirt.
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During our dress up afternoon it soon became clear that Tim Soar's focus is on making each piece desirable in its own right, regardless of gender. Although, each piece has started in menswear and delicately evolved and great care has been taken to ensure a fit that is flattering, chic, feminine. Throughout Him/She, both sexes are happy and well dressed as they nod along to Soar's tune.

Casely-Hayford AW11: Day One

Since the house's inception, Casely-Hayford have forged a new handwriting of modern English style that have left this blogger sartorially excited. The father and son design duo have created a signature style of relaxed masculine proportions and exquisite tailoring, all the while fused with an injection of the raw energy of London's dynamic culture that constantly inspires them. With each season, the design duo begin with the desire to capture, play and experiment with the duality of English Sartorialism and British Anarchy. It is an ever intriguing house that encourages change whilst being grounded in tradition. For its AW11 collection collection, the father and son design duo bring together the essence of each of its past five seasons to mark something of a new beginning. Now, I had the good fortune of examining the collection up close back in February thanks to The Showroom Next Door and even though most events that occurred that far back have been long forgotten, memories of this collection have stayed with me. Last week, I caught up with Charlie Casely-Hayford for an exclusive interview and first look at the images for Dazed Digital. Now, I'd like to pore over the beautiful images and snippets of the text once more with you.

"When my father and I began working together we knew that it would take time and experience to form a synergy between the two of us, and create a balance between the creative influences that work for the brand. We used the first five collections to explore individually the areas which we knew would come to define the Casely-Hayford DNA. Season one - London street culture, season two - sartorialism, season three - transculturalism, season four - military, heritage and anarchic cultural signifiers and season five relaxed, masculine proportions. AW11 shows how we intend to move forward and progress our vision of the Casely-Hayford man through a culmination of these key elements."

Charlie Casely-Hayford on how the collection evolved

(The full interview can be read over on Dazed Digital)

Entitled Day One, the collection is an eloquent summation of the previous five collections and signifies a real statement of intent. The pair have used the previous seasons to individually explore key strands of the house DNA, from the luxury sportswear of SS09 to the Afropunk of SS10 and military detailing of AW10. Now each component has been placed and finely tuned, Casely-Hayford take this opportunity to carve out a new, exciting future.

Here, Casely-Hayford analyse the different social and sporting uniforms worn on country house estates and inner city housing estates to create a collection which reflects the struggle of the current Coalition culture divided by a government without a singular ideal. Their mood board featured images of sporting attire from country estates to sportswear from council estates. Although the link may not be obvious in the final collection, it was a starting point which allowed us to develop new concepts and interesting hybrids such as the patchwork Puffa, which brings these two elements together. By deconstructing and fusing elements from hunting, shooting and fishing with the more casual urban sporting style of skate boarding, free running and motocross, Day One embodies the signature Casely-Hayford house style.

The beautifully shot look book continues this social play. Shot by Katinka Herbert in the stunning home of the Earl and Countess of Pembroke, Wilton House, the house takes this opportunity to fully explore the Casely-Hayford man. Before I share a few of my favourites, I'll let Charlie introduce the new direction... 

"The look book is the first time that we have visibly pushed the image of the Casely-Hayford man. We were in no rush to promote a setting and environment that didn't feel exactly right. It is most certainly about aspiration and carries a level of gravitas that comes with becoming a man, but the images also show someone who is slightly flawed. To us, these flaws define a man's identity. We project a man who is at peace with himself. There is a richness in the setting, but we hope that we have also been able to convey an understatement in his demeanour."

Charlie Casely-Hayford on the new direction for the look book

Look book credits:

Photography: Katinka Herbert, Photographic assistant: Christopher Kennedy, Art direction: Casely-Hayford & Son, Model: Hervé Laforest, Location: Wilton House

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If you want to read my interview with Charlie in its entirety please do head over to Dazed Digital. As for me, I'm going to dream about living in Wilton House and owning such a wardrobe.