Advent - Day Seventeen

Lou Dalton's rebellious English sportswear is always one of the real highlights of Menswear Day. Looking back to September, for SS11 Dalton continued to practice and hone her signature style with a strong sense of detail as she took inspiration from a nomadic lifestyle. There was a definite sense of crumpled classics throughout the presentation. Each garment had an appealing lived in quality and each look drew on influences from wide travels, from India through to North America and onwards through Europe. As the snow heavy sky loom over the city this collection and the lifestyle is celebrated are pretty inviting. Before I pack my bag and leave for faraway lands, we caught up with the designer to hear what's on her lengthy Christmas list...

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CROFT OFF THE SHETLAND ISLANDS

"There are so many things I'd love to have come Christmas day, from simple things like a Tom Ford Lipstick to a new pair of Church's Chelsea boots to the ultimate wish of a Croft off the Shetland Islands. Shetland holds such dear memories and it is a place I would hope to retire to when I'm old and grey. In addition to this any print by the fabulous artist John Currin, I love, love, love his work and would kill for a painting or two....."

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Sunspel blows out one hundred and fifty candles

Sunspel have spent the last one hundred and fifty years perfecting the art of timeless clothing. This national institution has been making the finest English underwear and t-shirts since 1860. All of Sunspel's clothes are handmade resulting in wardrobe staples that feel deeply luxurious yet have an understated elegance and sophistication. Throughout their history they have experimented with new styles, fabric structures, knitting techniques and have collaborated with the likes of Paul Smith, Margaret Howell, Thom Browne and Kris Van Assche to name but a few. With the appointment of JW Anderson at the creative helm and the opening of their first stand alone store on Redchurch Street, 2010 has undoubtedly been a great year.  

To help them blow out one hundred and fifty candles, they have invited several leading lights from the world of design to dig deep into their archives and offer a fresh interpretation of a few of their much loved staples. Jean Touitou, the creative brains behind A.P.C has designed a classic boxer using the silhouette of a short released by Sunspel in 1940 while the fabric is taken from excess material from an A.P.C. shirt.  Much loved Aussie skincare brand Aesop’s Dennis Paphitis have created a covetable pair of pyjamas. Local esteemed tailor Timothy Everest has resurrected the short-sleeved polos that Sean Connery wore in the sixties whilst playing 007. Derek Harris, of Lewis Leather presents a thicker than average cotton tee, designed to be worn under, you guessed it, motorcycle leathers...

A.P.C  designed classic boxer using the silhouette of a short released by Sunspel in 1940 whilst the fabric is taken from excess material from an A.P.C. shirt.

Timothy Everest has resurrected the short-sleeved polo.

Aesop’s Dennis Paphitis have created a covetable pair of pyjamas.

Lewis Leather presents a thicker than average cotton tee.

All in all this is celebratory capsule collection that I'll happily raise my glass to for now and hopefully get my hands on at the end of the year. Here's to Sunspel.

Advent - Day Sixteen

At this time of year there is one department store that draws me in with its festive interior and myriad of gift options inside, Liberty. However, outside of the usual gifting season there is plenty of reason for me to venture down to the basement. The menswear floor at London’s most cherished store is widely considered to be small but perfectly formed. Menswear buyer Stephen Ayres regularly introduces new labels whilst keeping old favourites to help create a dream walk in wardrobe. Here we find out what's on his Christmas list... 

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VINTAGE ROLEX OYSTER DATE WATCH FROM 1981


"My Christmas would be complete if I woke up to a Vintage Rolex Oyster date adjust watch from 1981 the year I was born. I think every man should have a proper watch and as I approach 30 only a Rolex will do."

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One for the future...Yasmin Bawa

Yasmin Bawa is currently a Menswear student at Middlesex University who has sent through her pre-collection, entitled Lattice, for our viewing pleasure. This honours student has taken this opportunity to gather press, media and most importantly feedback on her design work. Bawa has found time to complete a seven look capsule collection and accompanying film. Along with the obvious creative talent it demonstrates she has the business nous to promote her debut offering through the blogosphere. We were surprised and excited when we opened the speculative email from the young talent and had to share it with you. In addition to the film and a selection of stills, the student has sent through a few scans of her research book.

Bawa looked to the hugely popular photography project Family Stuff by Huang Qingjun and Ma Hongjie for initial inspiration. If you are not familiar with the project, it documents the homes of fifty (and ever growing) rural Chinese homes, sees the family with all of their possessions taken from inside their house and placing it outside. The series shows the original artwork and furniture mixed in with modern appliances. Every facet of contemporary life in China is on display, including evidence of those that have changed and remained during this period of modernisation. Bawa's collection combines elements from these rural Chinese villages and the traditional lattice design artwork with a more technical element, showing the social change taking place as modern culture seeps its way into these homes and families.

Inspiration wall.

A look inside Bawa's sketchbook depicting lattice work, fabric swatches and inspirations.

Another look inside her sketchbook and assortment of inspirations for each look.

Chinese lattice work was a huge inspiration for the prints used throughout the collection.

The seven looks sketched.

The battle between traditional and modern elements runs courses through the veins of the seven piece collection to beautiful effect. Natural fabrics, hand dying and screen prints echo the traditional element whilst laser etched prints on cotton drill and leather shows off the use of modern technology. Gradient effects on the fabrics add a further emphasis on the sense of change that is taking place all around the famlies depicted in the photography project, with one colour slowly taking over the next. As a menswear collection it showcases classic shapes whilst creating a whole new look with the colours, prints, function and detailing.

LATTICE Installation hand in

There are times when images just aren't enough. Thankfully, upon the completion of this capsule collection, Bawa soon decided to showcase her designs with a film by Liam Simpson. The design talent was inspired by Carolyn Massey's stunning SS11 film.
 

We think we'll be hearing a lot more from this creative talent in the near future. However, if you are impatient, you can follow the student's progress via her blog.

Advent - Day Fifteen

Apologies for the late unveiling of day fifteen of our Advent calendar but for us, the day was something of a write off. This blogger barely left the soothing comfort of his duvet as his head and throat felt abused and unqestionably inhuman. Thankfully, matters have improved enough to return the much missed glow of the laptop long enough to reveal what is on Patrick Grant's wish list this Christmas.

Just last week Grant was deservedly crowned Menswear Designer of the Year at this year's BFAs where he declared that "it's been a really remarkable year for us  (E. Tautz) and this award makes a rather nice early Christmas present." His personal style as well as his work at both the houses of Tautz and Nortons & Sons has received much attention on the pages of this blog, so who better to ask to take part in our festive feature? So, in addition to receiving awards, here's what's on his Christmas list...

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DAWES ULTRA GALAXY TOURING BIKE

"I think I'd like a Dawes Ultra Galaxy, simply the finest touring bicycle, still built in England, from the bike makers to the British Army. Might be just the thing to finally get me on that cycle tour of the Western Isles I've been banging on about for years."

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Old Curiosity

The Old Curiosity Shop on Portsmouth Street was immortalised by Dickens' classic tale about a lovable old shopkeeper whose gambling threatens to ruin both him and his adored granddaughter, Nell. The building dates back to the sixteenth century, but this name was added after the novel was released, as it was thought to be the inspiration for Dickens' description of the antique shop. Regardless of the origins of the true Old Curiosity Shop, Patrick Grant has breathed fresh life in to the tale with the launch of the Tautz Curiosity Shop. At the end of a hugely successful year that has seen this distinguished sporting and military tailors secure coveted stockists and plaudits alike, most recently deservedly resulting in the award of Menswear Designer prize at the BFA's, Grant now dips his hand linked socked toe in online retail

The Tautz man has a classic English sensibility mixed with a kind of schoolboy humour; he likes to dress elegantly, but enjoys clothes with wit. This Curiosity Shop celebrates this vision.  The E. Tautz team have raided the tin trunk at the bottom of the bed and rifled through great uncle Peregrines attic to unearth a trove of gentlemanly treasures...

In addition to the unearthed nick nacks, they are offering the more usual Tautz fare; hand knitted woolies, fine stripey stockings, hand sewn ties and bows and so on. As you should all know by now, E. Tautz is a label which champions the notion of dressing properly and of men taking pride in what they wear. It creates simple cutting paired with bold accents of colour and pattern - cloths with scale and texture; big checks, fine flannels, and stripes. The shop is now open and consider my curiosity piqued.

Advent - Day Fourteen

So, here we are, day fourteen of our Advent calendar and I am full of cold. Despite my incessant sniffles and grumbles, the show must go on. Today we feature the commercial desires of one of the most active men in the industry, Steve Monaghan. Sane Communications is an agency for a selection of some of the finest fashion and lifestyle brands and covetable products on the market. His client list reads like a who's who of menswear and includes oi polloi, Lavenham, Bedouin, Happy Socks and Penfield to name just a few. Here's what's on his Christmas list...

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DARK HORN HANDLE WALKING STICK


"A walking cane and a field spaniel. The field spaniel would be called Murdoch X and the cane would come from here."

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Advent - Day Thirteen

Today is not just the thirteenth day of our advent calendar but also Dick Van Dyke day (and the birthdays of our respective partners). So, we will keep posting to a minimum today before embarking on a day of much celebration. Behind door number thirteen on our festive calendar is is the founder and owner of Murdock London, Brendan Murdock.

Established in 2006, Murdock London offers the modern gentleman a relaxing and refined environment to escape the fast pace of city living, leaving looking and feeling better than ever. Each of its four stores combines the traditional elements of a barbershop blended with a contemporary and inviting feel. The product selection at Murdock reflects their interest in artisan manufacture and stylish simplicity, carefully edited, they are brands to discover and desire, not widely available in other retail environments, with many products that are exclusive to Murdock in England. It should came as little surprise then that Murdock has looked close to home for his gift...

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MURDOCK COLOGNES

"The Murdock colognes are perfect gift this Christmas for the gentleman who likes a classic reinvented. Each cologne is distinct with its own suggestive personality – the British bohemian, the curious adventurer, the louche dandy, the wanderlust traveller all sharing common convictions of quality, confidence, style and individuality. I believe these words define the Murdock Man, and who says a modern gentlemen can't indulge in a few simple fragrances? Just like life our colognes are reassuringly complex and deeply engaging..."

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Advent - Day Twelve

Not many designers would be comfortable designing clothes for the Clash and U2 to Gieves & Hawkes but Joe Casely-Hayford isn't just any designer. Casely-Hayford has always started from a traditional standpoint before subverting it in that English way. With the collaboration with John Lewis going from strength to strength and plans currently afoot with Barney's, Isetan and Comme des Garçons in Japan we will no doubt hearing a lot more from this design legend in 2011.  I cannot wait. But first...what would he like to unwrap on Christmas morning... 

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W S FOSTER & SON BROGUES

"I rarely clothes shop, on the occasions I do I tend to prefer something classic which transcends fashion.

Shoes have long been a weakness; I have over the years amassed an embarrassing number of English shoes. My passion remains strong, for Christmas I would be pleased to receive a pair of these rather tasty brogues. They are by W S Foster and Son on Jermyn Street London W.1 and work well in either a formal or casual context."

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Advent - Day Eleven

Over the last five seasons Casely-Hayford have created a signature style of relaxed masculine sartorial proportions, fused with an injection of London's heady cocktail of youth culture. They have fast become one of our favourite labels. As a weekend treat we decided to reveal what the father and son design duo wanted to find wrapped up underneath their Christmas tree this year. First up, Charlie Casely-Hayford dreams up an authentic pair of black mining boots to add to his ever growing collection of 10 hole and 2 hole styles... 

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AUTHENTIC BLACK MINING BOOTS

"I'd love to find a pair of authentic black mining boots under my tree this Christmas. I wear a pair of boots and a suit almost everyday, so I've acquired quite a few different 10 hole and 12 hole styles over the years.

These American 12 hole mining boots would be the pinnacle of my collection and make my other boots look like girl's plimsolls. They have a Vibram outsole steel toe, a stainless steel bottom plate, a Goodyear patented flex-welt construction, a steel shank and a waterproof GORE-TEX Bootie... It doesn't say, but they're probably bulletproof as well."

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Advent - Day Ten

When we mooted the idea of asking our favourite figures of menswear to take part in our Advent feature we wanted to think big. Well, they don't get much bigger than Paul Smith, do they? Having fallen in to the world of fashion by accident he opened his own boutique in Nottingham in 1970. Forty years on and there are twelve different collections bearing his name and his impact on British fashion is immeasurable. Sir Paul Smith is a living legend and amazingly he (via his pr) agreed to take part in our feature. Here's what's on his Christmas list...

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CANON POWERSHOT G10



“I would really like a Canon Powershot G10 camera for Christmas. I always carry a camera around with me because I like to take a lot of photos and you never know what you are going to come across.”

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Veja's Centre Commercial

The two founders of Veja have embarked on an intriguing retail project located in a neighbourhood that favours slow shopping, a few steps away from the Saint Martin Canal, and its cafés, and terraces. The space is a natural extension of the values behind the label and combines fashion with social commitment and artistic projects with environmental concerns. For those of you unfamiliar with the label, the origin of the Veja project can be summed up in one question: is another world possible? 

Over the last six years Veja have helped put forward their answer by creating a global chain that emphasises solidarity and the environment, from the small producers in Brazil to the European concept stores that sell its growing product range. Centre commercial offers labels made in France, Great Britain and Denmark and houses second-hand bicycles, vintage furniture and art works. It is a collective space, uniting local, social and environmental initiatives. The retail space showcases their varied but ultimately complimentary influences. Here we speak with Veja's Aurélie Dumont to learn more about the store and the brands plan for the future. 

SS: Centre Commercial instantly feels likes the antidote to fast paced retail. Was this one of the driving catalyst for the project?

Aurélie Dumont: Yes, Centre Commercial has been thought of as a place to slow down.  Reminiscent in the ways of our grandparents, we wanted to favour know-how and continuity. Rather than mere products, Centre Commercial will curate genuine projects.

SS: How did the project arise, was it always part of the Veja plan, if not how did it evolve?

Aurélie Dumont: Veja was created in 2004 with the intention of proving that it is possible to work differently. We have created a strong social, economic and, ecological chain from small producers in Brazil to the doors of European stores. During these past two years we have started adding a cultural dimension to Veja having been inspired by people we have met along the way: designers with really great projects going far beyond the ecology or meeting artists with fascinating messages. We started organising art exhibitions and a series of unconventional talks, and we soon felt that we needed a space to feature those messages.

Centre Commercial is meant to be a place to slow down and to question what we consume through a selection of locally made clothes and accessories, furniture sourced by antique dealers, committed installations and artistic projects, bicycles revamped by a social charity and shortlisted books and publications.

SS: What does Centre Commercial mean to you?

Aurélie Dumont: In a way, the name itself refers to mass consumption. The name is a nod to the works of the French philosopher Bernard Stiegler and suggests questioning our consumption habits. Centre Commercial is a shopping center. A selection of clothes, accessories, furniture, bikes, cosmetics, books and publications has been put together…. a shopping center then …but modeled after us. 

SS: Like the Veja label itself, the space manages to combine fashion with social commitment and artistic projects with environmental concerns. It is a space infused by your varied but ultimately complimentary influences. How did you curate the store?

Aurélie Dumont: Centre Commercial is meant to be a place to slow down and to question what we consume through a selection of locally made clothes and accessories, furniture sourced by antique dealers, committed installations and artistic projects, bicycles revamped by a social charity and shortlisted books and publications.  Among the selected wardrobe for both men and women you will find brands such as Knowledge Cotton Apparel whose shirts are crafted in Denmark using organic cotton, Saint James who has been knitting their fisherman style jumpers in Brittany since the 1950’s or La Botte Guardiane whose boots and shoes are hand-made in the French Camargue following traditional methods.

An enticing mix of product from labels made in France, Great Britain and Denmark.

SS: Centre Commercial offers labels made in France, Great Britain and Denmark whilst housing second-hand bicycles, vintage furniture and art works. Are the brands and individuals involved friends of Veja? How did you find the right mix of products?

Aurélie Dumont: Our ambition was to create a space which would work as a catalyst for projects and initiatives we like.  Ties between those projects will probably arise where we don’t expect them.  From fine artists to fair trade certification bodies, we will feature individuals and companies which work differently.

Veja and Gloverall

SS: Would you be able to talk us through some of your favourite products currently in store?

Aurélie Dumont: One of the most interesting discoveries so far has been the quarterly French XXI publication. XXI features seasoned novelists, recognized investigative journalists and major graphic novelists depicting our current world through well-documented and in-depth articles. Both the latest issue and the 11 back issues are available at Centre Commercial.

SNS Herning knits

SS: Aside from fabulous product, what do you hope the consumer will take away from the store?

Aurélie Dumont: We hope that they will take away the feeling that trade can be done in a different way while experiencing a certain aesthetic. Centre Commercial aims to be a place where minds can meet. The book selection for example, contrary to what is on offer in a traditional library, counts only ten books in total. These have been carefully chosen by a French editor, they are his current selection of great books he’d like to share. That selection will be periodically renewed by each new literary specialist.

Knowledge Cotton Apparel whose shirts are crafted in Denmark using organic cotton

SS: The store sounds far from static, the curation of product and art is an on going endeavor. How would you like to see the store evolve? Is there anything that you are particularly looking forward to in the near future (for example a particular delivery of product or upcoming exhibition?

Aurélie Dumont: Centre Commercial opened last week featuring the fine artist Kleber Matheus from São Paulo, whose works are made from neon light tubes. More exhibitions will be unveiled in 2011. For the coming months we will have more ‘made in France’ garments, some promising accessories and a new exciting project around bikes.

Centre Commercial aims to slow down the retail experience.

SS: Finally, what's next for Veja?  

Aurélie Dumont: 2010 has seen the launch of Projet Numero Deux, our debut line of day bags and accessories in collaboration with London-based store Darkroom and the exclusive web platform oki-ni.com. Vegetable tanned-leather wallets and laptop sleeves made of organic cotton have just been released. For 2011 we have worked on new exciting styles and an exclusive collaboration with French Trotters which will be soon uncovered!

Centre Commercial is located at 2 Rue de Marseille in Paris.

Advent - Day Nine

Under the design stewardship of Pierangelo D'Agostin, J.Lindeberg has continued its endeavour of redefining modern classics with a Scandinavian point of view. By respecting old traditions and combining them with the technical advancements of today, D'Agostin has helped to create collections to covet. Having recently had the pleasure to talk through the SS11 collection with the man himself, it was clear how important fabric development was to both his design process and the energy of the revitalised label. So, when we asked D'Agostin to take part in our Advent calendar it came as little surprise that the designer was dreaming of his latest fabric swatch...

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FABRIC SWATCH PROTOTYPE

Tokyo 08 12 2010

"I have just arrived from Beijing. I have been developing cashmere yarns and have been designing knit items for more than twenty years.

I met Mr. Duan who has just come back from the Inner Mongolia. He brought me a trial of the finest raw yarns in pure cashmere, I have never seen.

I was thrilled. This cashmere is shed from the goats living at an altitude of 3000 and 3500 meters in the sustainable ecosystem.

We made a swatch and it was like a Shahtoosh. Now he is testing a prototype. I wish to receive it in time for Christmas."

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British Remains Series Two

Now, you might think it a tad odd to write about a line of t shirts in the midst of one of the coldest months of December that I can remember but I just couldn't resist turning my attention to the second drop from British Remains. You might recall back in (oh so warm) July that I introduced the label after one particular design caught my eye and captured my imagination. As they could not find any decent printed t shirts for themselves, Andrew Bunney and Daryl Saunders took matters in to their own creative hands. The duo have talked for many years about the things they like, hate and mourn about the nation and British Remains will explore some of those feelings.

The second series, just like the first, is a tightly edited offering, with each item encapsulating  precisely what the label is all about. As the debut offering  gave the printed cotton treatment to London brickwork, toilet signage and Generation X, the sophomore series  celebrates facets of Britain and localised symbols that would ordinarily not be known outside of these shores. This time the pair highlight a prison constructed completely using convict labour in 1874 and later the sight of a rooftop protest over visiting rights staged by IRA prisoners, celebrate the life of Robert Fraser and offer a selection of treasures... 

LOOT! What a bounty...a few of the disputed treasures include the Rosetta Stone, Elgin Marbles, Koh-i-Noor and Sultanganj Buddha. 

Wish you were here... HMP Wormwood Prison has certainly had a colourful past and just last year was listed as a Grade II building, principally because of its distinctive gatehouse as depicted on the shirt. 

Robert Fraser. Fraser was a noted London art dealer and gallerist during the swinging sixties and beyond. Paul McCartney described him as "one of the most influential people of the London Sixties scene." His exhibitions helped to launch and promote the work of many important new British and American artists including Peter Blake, Richard Hamilton, Gilbert and George, Andy Warhol, Ed Ruscha and later Jean-Michel Basquiat to name just a few.

The once challenging, political, humourous, marginalised printed tees of old have seemingly lost their way no thanks to the mass produced varieties hanging on rails across high streets near and far. Bunney and Saunders wanted to reignite a printed passion and they certainly have with this blogger.

Advent - Day Eight

We have long admired the snapshots of style that Tommy Ton captures for his own site Jak & Jil and those for GQ. Tommy's images are at times breathtaking and frequently more inspiring than the happenings of any catwalk. His roving eye scans and focuses on the details that are often overlooked but are in fact so very important. Tommy can zoom in on a contrasting cuff, tailoring quirk, novel print combination and sartorial scenes from one hundred paces. He undoudtedly has the eye. With this in mind we just had to ask him to reveal the one item he hopes to unwrap this year and he plumped for a beautiful pair of Northampton crafted boots...

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TRICKER"S MALTON BROGUE BOOTS

Tricker's Malton Brogue boots with a Commando sole

"For Christmas, I'd love to receive a pair of Tricker's Malton Brogue boots with a Commando sole. It's funny how long I've wanted a pair but yet I haven't had any time while visiting London to go to the Tricker's shop. My time is always occupied by fashion week and rather than ordering a pair online, I'd like to properly get fitted and fully experience the Tricker's experience. Ideally, I'd love to customize a pair but I also really love the Vibram wedge sole on the pairs they collaborate with Present London. Brogue boots are a classic staple in my wardrobe and to receive a pair would be the ultimate Christmas gift."

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Advent - Day Seven

After unearthing Kapok earlier this year, it soon became one of my favourite retail discoveries. The stock always presents a well curated selection of European and Asian brands and includes a mouth watering array of my favourite labels while introducing me to a few new ones with each visit. With Kapok, Arnault Castel's objective is to showcase brands that combine creativity and craftsmanship. This small but perfectly formed store is an arbiter of good taste and temptation surrounds you the moment you step through its doors. With this in mind, we just had to ask Castel what he'd like to find under his Christmas tree this year. "As I am quite greedy, I would like to chose two items. One that I need and one that I am quite obsessed about..."

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FOLDING DUTCH BICYCLE

"First, my family is moving to a smaller village in the French countryside so I would need a bicycle to get around. I am looking for a folding bicycle so I can bring it to the beach house in the summer.

I'm not feeling a too "beautiful" design or heritage bicycle, but rather fancy a very simple, practical one. This dutch bicycle seems to be quite perfect"

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BLACK CHRONOGRAPH WATCH FROM UNIFORM WARES

"The second item is something I absolutely don't need but can't stop thinking about. I have loved the Uniform Wares ranges since their first release, for their absolute simplicity. Their latest version, the chronograph in black needs to be on my wrist very soon (preferably around christmas )! I have never been a watch addict, but now I can understand why people can get crazy about watches"

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