Modesty of fashion

The new modesty? Club collar shirt from Unconditional.

After a long week I shunned the chance to go out and instead chose a quiet night in. In addition to catching up with a few podcasts I had a copy of Elle Collections to keep me company. You might question why I would admit to this on the pages of the blog but I'm not ashamed by it. I rather enjoyed my quiet Friday night. Now, of course this guide for Autumn Winter 2010 but I was struck by the publications diverse mix of season summation. Most biannual guides purely focus on the goings on of the catwalk by using cut outs and little else. Elle Collections manages to bring the collections and trends to life in a way that is sorely lacking in similar men's fashion publications. In addition to beautiful imagery the issue is bursting with inspiring, well written text. I could bore some of you with extracts from Germaine Greer's piece The New Age or with nuggets from both sides of the fence on the Fur Debate but it is the Five Things we love feature that really left a lasting impression on me, Mark Hooper's suggestion of Modesty in particular...

Modesty. Less flesh, more clothes, demure is the new sexy.

"In the grand scheme of things, it's probably a good thing that the British are no longer considered a nation of prudes and stiff-laced Victorian killjoys. But sometimes (usually as I'm surveying the war zone of binge drinking vulgarians on the high street of a weekend), I can't help thinking we've lost something along the way.

Like it or not, modesty is part of our national physche. Understatement is what we do best, from our tongue in cheek humour to our inclination towards tolerance over extremism. It might be something to do with the weather, we're literally mild by nature. And it used to translate to our dress sense as well. Even Beau Brummel, the archetypal 19th century dandy, preached the value of good style over peacock fashion, famously declaring of a person whose dress sense caused heads to turn, 'Then he is not well dressed.'"

Modesty as loved by Mark Hooper (editor of Electric!).

Hooper went on to describe that Brummel would have approved of this season's womenswear collections, where modesty and purism were the most buzzwords - most notably with Phoebe Philo's designs for Celine (If I were a woman I would long for Celine, hell I long for Celine as it is!). Of course, the wonderful world of menswear has always been the more conservative. Where extremes are measured in cuff lengths. The details make the difference. With the whirlwinds of fashion weeks though it can be quite easy to forget. This concept of modest but well dressed is something I will explore further this season and next. What's wrong with being a little stiff laced?

Carrying Veja

For AW10, Veja debuts Project Numero Deux, the first collection of bags.

Veja are considered by many to be the greenest sneakers and rightly so. There is however, far more to them than their eco-friendly credentials might suggest. The French label produce simple, low profile trainers produced to a very high quality. With organic cotton from the Northeast of Brazil, wild Amazonian rubber and ecological leather, it is inventing new methods of work while still creating trainers with designs to get excited over. I have to be honest with you, when I hear the words eco friendly uttered my mind is filled with thoughts of clumpy hemp or folksy printed creations but fortunately Veja offer a different proposition. The label was set up in 2003 by two Frenchmen determined to fight worldwide deforestation, exhaustion of natural resources and Labour exploitation. They have managed to come up with one of the best looking fair trade products I've ever come across, none more so than the Indigenos range for AW10. Now they have extended their offering to bags with the launch of Project Numero Deux...

Veja's Project Numero Deux launches in September.

Back in April I popped down to see them at their London showroom to find out as much as I could about the brand. What struck me straight off was the close knit nature of the team (the London office has only three staff) and how they let the products do the talking for them. You won't see any fairtrade labels pasted on to any of their products. In addition to being impressed by its values and design, the showroom visit afforded me first glimpse of Project Numero Deux AW10. Now that a few months have passed and the launch date is imminent I can finally talk you through the range! Like the trainers, the Veja bags are made with ecological materials. The lining and canvas are made from organic cotton grown by a co-operative of producers in the Northeast of Brazil. The cotton is grown in the agro-ecology method which bans the use of chemicals and pesticides. While the leather is tanned with acacia extracts, a natural non polluting tannin. Let's take a closer look at the range...

Veja Acacia. Canvas style messenger bag.

The Acacia profile.

The Acacia also comes in Navy Biscuit, Burgundi Biscuit, Graphite Cappucino and Kaki Cappucino.

Veja Acacia Leather. Leather style available Burgundi, Cafe and Auburn

The Cafe version is stunning...

A closer look at the tanned leather.

The range. Veja Acacia in canvas and leather sits alongside the Mochila style backpack.

In recent seasons Veja has created a global chain that emphasises solidarity and the environment ranging from their small producers in Brazil to the European concept stores that we are all more familiar with. If you are interested in the range, Project Numero Deux AW10 will be available for pre-order from August 19th on oki-ni, while the launch party will be on September 2nd at Darkroom, Lamb’s Conduit Street.

Reiss screens Elements for AW10

A still from Reiss' Elements campaign

What do you think of when you walk past Reiss? It is a store that provided my first real suit and a good number of wardrobe essentials over the years when I felt like treating myself on the high street. In truth, I've not ventured inside for some time. Business of Fashion described the high street fixture much better than I ever could; "offering beautifully designed, well-crafted clothing at an honest price, sitting somewhere in the middle of the high street and high-end, Reiss had carved out a distinctive market positioning." However, this unique value proposition was not enough. It has since become an often overlooked chain, its store quietly went about their business. Always on the periphery. No longer. This evening, Reiss screened its new film Elements and I took my seat at the preview. Directed by Jamie Morgan, Elements, provides a much needed adrenaline shot to the veins of the high street and the brand itself.

With Elements Reiss have created something truly unique to the high street.

“This season is a step forward for Reiss with a collection that we are really excited about. Showing our key products in this new and innovative way felt right for where we are going, as a way of capturing all the energy and excitement that is apparent throughout every aspect of our brand. And generally, if we ’re this excited about it, I ’m confident that our customers will be to.”

David Reiss on AW10 and the Elements campaign

The fashion film movement has undoubtedly hit the mainstream in recent seasons and I for one welcome it and am excited to see how the medium evolves. With the realisation that video has such powerful engagement potential as well as an ability to capture the sentiment of the brand, Reiss' decision to showcase the AW10 collection in this manner was a simple one.

“We set out to make art . Our objective was to create a confident and captivating visual statement for Reiss to day an d as a mark of intent for the future. The search for the new and the need to push the boundaries are key to how we stay relevant. ‘Elements’ is the nature of all Reiss stands for while clearly visualising our sexy, modernist stance.”

Andy Rogers, Brand Director

Isaac Carew stylishly facing a torrential downpour.

The creative inspiration came as the result of an artistic collaboration with Jamie Morgan, renowned photographer and film maker who founded London’s creative collective ‘Buffalo’ in the 1980’s. The ‘Buffalo’ collective changed the nature of image making through its pioneering work in The Face. Morgan's sense of exploration and creative instincts then brought him to explore moving images which translated into a series of short but beautifully emotive films as well as portrait and documentary studies. Jamie’s minimalistic and structured style epitomise this evocative and powerful narrative. With 'Elements' Morgan helps to showcase the well crafted products (particularly seen in the tailoring) while visualising the modern, sexy element of the brand. The film attempt to and succeeds at evoking a moment of fashion. Rather than emerging from a purely commercial place, this campaign focuses on creativity and helps capture the magic of fashion. Without further ado, I pass you over to the smouldering pair of Natasa Vojnovic and Isaac Carew braving the elements while joined by an array of symbolic animals...

A full web launch follows this preview in September, coinciding with the arrival of the Autumn/Winter 2010 collection in stores. I might not have popped inside a store for some time but that will change come the autumn.

In discussion: Moments of style

What is life except a collection of moments? Without getting too philosophical on you on a damp summer's afternoon and given the fact that we are a style blog, lets focus on purely sartorial moments though in this instance. Of course there are snapshot of style which we look back on that evoke an odd sense of pride or happiness, others might make us cringe, question our sanity before diverting the blame on to the shoulders of an era or an embarrassing trend that once seduced us. Here we kick start our latest discussion topic by asking a few of our favourite menswear characters to discuss their moments of style...

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Tell us about your most stylish moment or memory. And the least.

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Daniel Jenkins, Retailer focusing solely upon British fashion talent.

"Most Stylish? I'm going for a memory way back in the midst of time. There is a photo of me as a (I'm guessing) 4 year old in bright red wellies, blue jumbo cords, tattersall check jumper and wool jumper with a slight pattern in it. I'm stood holding my grandfather's hand next to my little toy tractor and frankly I should give up on this clothing lark because I'll never look as good again. Whole thing is spot on. Perhaps I should get my mum to dress me more often?

As for least stylish memory I'm going to plead the fifth and say I've always been immaculate - which I can guarantee is a total lie!!!"

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James Shaw, Albam

Most stylish...My dad in a charcoal double breasted suit, pale blue shirt and knitted tie. Great watch and shoes. Definitely a memory that sticks in my mind.

Least stylish...The least said about that the better!

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Mr Hare, shoeist.

"My least stylish moment happened in Paris last week when I attended Esquire Magazines 7 Great Brits (I did note there were only 6 people there when I arrived). I forget who I was talking to but my champagne holding hand went into an involuntary spasm and emptied the entire contents of my glass, squarely into both of my own eyes. Have you ever maced yourself with champagne? It felt like I had stood too close to Dame Colin McDowell and security had sprung forth to restrain me before I asked him any awkward questions about young British fashion. For five whole minutes I stood blinded from chateau napalm in the garden of the Bristol Hotel, unable even to run for cover from the embarrassment. This would be a good story if it ended here but no. Twenty minutes later when I had regained 20/20 and cultivated enough conversation to be confident that memories of my earlier self tasing had drifted away on the early evening breeze, I was in the company of two stallions of the men's wear buying game. Just as I was taking another ample swig of the reason we were all there, stallion one says to stallion two 'Come on Terry, let's go. We're the last department store here.'

On reflection it isn't that funny, but as the diaphramic laugh propelled geyser of champagne from my mouth descended on the entire accumulated throng, I knew it was time to leave."

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Izzy, blogger behind The Dandy Project‬

"Most stylish: Getting photographed by a fashion student putting together an art book in the Marais in Paris and being approached by a German fellow who recognized the German officer's jacket I had on, all on the same day.

Least stylish: I showed up to college one day in a pair of rainbow-striped Nautica board shorts and got more than a few snickers. (This soon warranted a self-imposed uniform of plain white tops and dark denim.) Three years later, colorful board shorts were all the rage at my school."

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Syed, blogger behind Dapper kid.

"My personal most stylish moment would probably have to be either my first ever day of Kindergarten, or going to prize-giving in primary school.

For my first day of Kindergarten I was allowed to wear my own clothes in, and I have quite the vivid memory of the outfit I wore. I had these bright yellow dungarees with geometric patches on the left breast, something along the lines of a blue triangle, red square, and so on. It had one of those large pockets on the stomach, with really prominent white stitching. I also remember wearing these petrol blue leather shoes. They had a strap and buckle, with broguing on the toe piece. I think the memory as a whole stands out because what I was wearing was such a true expression of who I was at the time (actually I have to admit that I always keep my eye out for brightly coloured dungarees!).

Prize-giving in primary school is another memory that stands out outfit-wise. A neat, well fitted uniform is always good in my books. It consisted of a crisp white shirt worn with a striped, green and maroon tie. On top of that I wore a grey v-neck sweater with green trim and a black blazer with matching green trim. As it was Summer I was allowed to wear light grey shorts that were cuffed above the knee, which were paired with high grey socks that hit just below the knee and black leather shoes. I was also fortunate enough to have a grey wool school boy cap (more akin to a baker boy cap). Uniform probably elicits unstylish memories for most, but I remember my primary school uniform with a smile.

Oddly enough my most unstylish memory does actually have to do with school uniform! In secondary school my parents were of the belief that they had to buy clothing that I would..."grow into". It has been a number of years since I was in school, and I have yet to grow into the blazer I wore. My trousers were usually too short, as I was rather tall and tended to wear my brother's old trousers. Basically I looked like a bit of a scarecrow. Oversized would be an understatement, as most often I was positively swimming in my clothes."

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Gosha Rubchinsky's articulation of post-Soviet youth

At the ripe age of twenty six (an age shared by this blogger) and having only completed three collections since the founding of his eponymous label in 2008, Gosha Rubchinskiy has enthused something of a cult following both at home in Moscow and abroad for his articulation of post-Soviet youth. I first stumbled across this all encompassing creative last season, when the young Russian menswear designer set up a teenage bedroom at the Fashion East Menswear installations for AW10. As with previous collections, Rubchinsky dealt with themes of youth culture struggling in post Soviet, modern-day Russia and with an almost solitary outlook that translated well to his soulful sportswear. However, it soon became quite clear as I wandered the space that by mixing influences from the streets of Moscow and the surrounding subcultures, Gosha Rubchinskiy creates more than fashion. I was hooked. Now, Gosha Rubchinskiy’s photography of Russian youth is currently being exhibited at 032c workshop / Joerg Koch until August 21^st 2010. The cult German fashion and culture magazine invited Rubinskiy to show a retrospective of his work. Fortunately for us, our ever eager menswear correspondent, Susie, took a few photos of the exhibition space for the blog...

Rubchinksiy grew up in the aftermath of Gorbachev’s political and economic restructuring, or Perestroika—a key factor in the fall of Communism. Once an avid reader of OM magazine, Russia’s answer to The Face, Rubchinskiy infiltrated his country’s burgeoning fashion scene as a stylist and makeup artist, and after five years on the circuit, he decided to begin his own label, thereby splitting with Moscow’s sartorial glamor. His work has been described as '"a personal take on the 'fetishistic uniformity of Moscow street gangs’ suburb sportswear, mixed with political paraphernalia.”

The 032c vitrine included Rubchinsky’s photography of his subjects, photo-collages vividly colliding Russian architecture—both Orthodox and Soviet—with skate culture, and the designer’s own esoterica-inspired accessories and streetwear. To accompany the exhibition, 032c and Motto Distribition will co-publish a catalogue edition of Rubchinskiy’s photography in a limited print-run of three hundred. Susie was kind enough to pick one up for me. Below are a few of my favourite scans...

Going further than a label might, his work is a totality, where orthodoxy meets black metal, sports and skateboard culture; a "gesamtkunstwerk" involving casting photography, design and artistic direction.

“Fashion is just a part of this world I’m building. The kids that inspire me are the goal of my work, I do it for them first of all.”

Gosha Rubchinskiy

akindofguise's live what you love

Yesterday I excitedly declared my love for my new backpack but today I'd like to tell you a little more about its creators. While in Berlin for Bread&Butter, Susie unearthed a gem of a new label in akindofguise. Last week the sophomore offering was presented by Danish label woodwood at their Berlin store and Susie was well placed and eager to take advantage. Live what you love is the mantra of the second collection from the Munich based menswear label but it might as well be live in what you love. The craftsmanship, fit, materials and palette combine to form a tightly edited collection of garments that I would love to see hanging in my wardrobe...

You might have noticed my penchant for a palette dominated by blue on the pages of this blog and it appears that the creative minds behind akindofguise share my preference. The Munich based designers have even adapted an ancient marital rhyme to reflect their spectrum choices...

dress in white: you’ve chosen right.

dress in blue: love will be true.

Even if you've fallen out of love with blue these are well designed, well made wardrobe staples that would happily sit in my wardrobe. As mentioned in the previous post, each item are either are strictly limited edition or one of a kind. To make them even more special, each piece is hand crafted using the finest, premium materials. To help promote the sophomore collection, akindofguise have created a stop motion video that helps bring the collection to life...

A tasty treat

For the past few weeks Susie has been there, everywhere but rarely here. The latest adventure took her to Berlin where in addition to falling for the charms of the German capital while exploring Bread & Butter she discovered numerous menswear treats that she has gladly shared with me. As well as picking up a few business cards and taking mouth watering product photos she brought back something truly special...a tasty treat of an altogether different kind.

The best present a boy could wish for...

When most people's partners return from spells abroad a tasty treat tends to refer to a giant Toblerone but Susie picked up something truly special from Wood Wood. Now, don't get me wrong, I love a novelty sized triangular chocolate like the next man but this backpack from Munich based label akindofguise is the best present a boy could wish for. It is the perfect bag to carry my daily essentials around town and beyond. Made from the softest leather that these grubby mitts have ever stroked I'm forced to type one with hand as the other is reluctant to stop touching it. The real beauty though is in the hand crafted detail so lets take a closer look...

My perfect day bag...carrying my daily essentials in true style.

The profile...

The leather is so soft I don't know whether to wear it or spread it on my sourdough.

I think I'm in love...

akindofguise are a young Munich based label that see their second collection exclusively stocked at Wood Wood in Berlin. All of their pieces are strictly limited edition or are even unique. To the best of my knowledge this backpack is the only one in existence and now it sits proudly on my shoulders. Each item is handcrafted using the finest, premium materials. They mix traditional elements from different backgrounds that inspire them. Return tomorrow and I'll share their latest look book and video with you but for now I just want to stroke my bag and to declare how lucky I am.

Baartmans & Siegel SS11

In a similar vein to the London Showrooms, Esquire and Colin McDowell presented a catwalk film of seven British menswear designers who should be seen by the buyers in Paris. The so called magnificent seven consisted Richard James, Domingo Rodriguez, E. Tautz, Oliver Spencer, Gieves & Hawkes, Baartmans & Siegel and Hart Savile Row. Last week Esquire posted a sneak peek in to what we'll be seeing next summer and even though the line up included a number of established design talent, my interest peaked with Baartmans & Siegel.

Since we covered the degree collections of both design halves that make up Baartmans & Siegel, the label has become one to watch, recognisable by the pairs use of interactive texture and sharp tailoring. It has quickly established itself to become synonymous with interesting details and a menacing masculinity. Just as their AW10/11 capsule collection launched exclusively at Harrods, I caught up with the pair to take a closer look at their SS11 offering. Before I take you on an in depth tour of the collection though I think it best to share their latest look book with you (warning, it includes an all too familiar face)...

Aquatic inspiration without a breton in sight.

The simple yet playful silhouettes are stunning throughout

I tired on the double breasted blazer on the right and my body misses it now. I'll have to save up. Also, if you're lusting over the butter soft brogues they have been supplied by Grensons.

The back detailing on the trench is particularly flattering.

The Jules Verne collection is based on the aquatic science fiction adventure novels penned by the French author in the late nineteenth century. The design duo reference Verne's classic, 'Vingt mille lieuses sous les mers' through their choice of colour palette, which incorporates various shades of ocean friendly blues, greens and creams. I must say, it is refershing to see an aquatic inspired collection without those all too familiar breton stripes.

A look inside their sketchbook.

A closer look at one of the luxurious printed silk scarves. The ocean inspired print is breathtaking.

As Verne's novel is not only one of the great adventure classics by the 'Father of Science Fiction', but also a truly fantastic voyage from the lost city of Atlantis to the South Pole, this collection is not only a showcase of modern traditionalism but an exploration of masculinity. Here the pair are interested in the creation of a murky, menacing form of masculinity echoed in the novels own sense of adventure, strength and excitement.

Floaty light. A cloud print shirt

The print of this shirt creates such texture.

Once again the pair have sourced the very best textiles.

Wouter Baartmans and Amber Siegel’s work focuses on beautiful fabrics that seduce, and shapes that are accessible yet distinctive. This collection has a remarkably clean and sharp silhouette and softly breathes a air of heightened luxury. Once again, once fabric is key. Here the collection predominantly uses a variety of silks, wools, linens and mohairs. They have worked with Italian, Japanese and Swiss textile mills to ensure that they have sources the most innovative materials of the highest quality. Baartmans and Siegel's design ethos revolves around creating products that heighten the best characteristics of the wearer. The collection has been designed so that many of the pieces are interchangeable and to give the wearer more stylistic control. It is important for both Amber and Wouter that each garment is strong individually, while flexible enough to be combined and to interact well with others.

Amber and Wouter constantly search for the very best fabrics from the best mills.

Likewise with this jacket. Simply stunning use of fabric and cut.

Texture, texture everywhere. These trousers can be paired with the matching coat to heart racing effect.

The pair have such an eye for detail. A closer look at the finishing detail of the jacket.

An ocean lapping at the shore. I decided to shoot the hand knit jumpers together to demonstrate the soft colour palette.

This collection makes me strangely proud. I have no idea why other than the fact I'm utterly blown away by the maturity, finish and sense of luxury that oozes from every stitch and finishing detail. I for one am eager to see how this design partnership continues to evolve over the coming seasons.