Universal Works x Millican

In the tumultuous seas of spurious, pointless and head scratchily strange collaborations, we desperately cling on to the rare examples of worthwhile match ups. The recent creative coming together of Universal Works and Millican is such an example. David Keyte of Universal Works discovered Millican bags after stumbling across the inspirational story of their namesake Millican Dalton. A self styled 'Professor of Adventure', the eccentirc outdoorsman lived a life of simplicity and self sufficiency. It is little wonder that the designer found inspiration in his tale which led Keyte to the brand. "Millican Bags share both his name and his passion for the outdoors and I love what they are doing," Keyte explains as he talks about the collaboration. Since its inception three years, Millican combines a passion for vintage travel bags, the outdoor life and all things functional with a shared passion for a more sustainable life. Both Universal Works and Millican share a passion for honest tradition whilst producing modern, functional and practical goods that will last. Ultimately, the considered range does what any good collaboration should, explore and expand on these similarities, individual strengths and areas of expertise of both brands to create truly covetable products. 

The resulting collection complements each brand's regular offering and inspired by classic carry solutions. Universal Works have reinterpreted Millican's acclaimed Courier Bag and Daypack and added two new silhouettes, a shopper and a holdhall, whilst staying true to their signature attention to detail in order to crate the perfect accessories for the modern adventurer. Just before the fruits of the collaboration land in stores and online, we caught up with David Keyte before taking a closer look at the functional beauties...

SS: How did this collaboration between the two of you arise, what was the catalyst and how did it evolve in to the collection we see today?

David Keyte: I was very interested in the story of Millican Dalton, the English eccentric outdoors man, and through that research I saw the Millican bags.  I loved the fact they had based their ideas on such an interesting guy,  I was in the market for a new bag myself and bought one of  their small courier bags.  I used the bag daily for a while and loved it.  I recommended the bags to friends of mine and through that we ended up helping Millican finding some sales in Europe, all this before we had ever met.  I then asked Jorritt if he would be interested to make some bags directly with us.  We loved what they did and thought it would be a great project to work on together.

SS: Both of you share a passion for honest tradition, while producing modern, functional and practical goods that will last and become long time favourites.How would you describe one another and what you both bring to one another?

David Keyte: I think we both come fro a place of understanding and loving traditional English products, but wanting to not make "old fashioned" products. Understanding heritage is important but I don't want to be defined by it.  We both want to produce bags that are more about style, form and function rather than short term fashion and I think this shows through with the collaboration.

SS: David, how did Millican Dalton inspire you?

David Keyte: I loved the way he chose his own destiny. He left many of the comforts of a normal home life to experience outdoor living in the beautiful and dramatic English lakes, he made his own clothes, he chose action over a sedentary life style and he was a proper English eccentric. And had a good beard!

SS: The collection sees Universal Works reinterpret two Millican favourites and add two new silhouettes.

David Keyte:  Yes we love the Millican range but wanted to add a couple of more urban bags.  The first is the tote bag, which is a favourite amongst men in Japan and Europe, and one of my personal favorites, and the second is a simple weekend bag - for me I will always use a good "nighter" bag

SS: Craft and local manufacture are obviously very important to you both and are dear to us too at Style Salvage. Can you talk us through some of the processes involved in creating the fruits of this collaboration

David Keyte: Small scale production and highly skilled makers are very important to us. At UW we try to make much of our production locally but that's not always possible as it simply does not exist for some types of product.  What is really important to us is ethical production,  quality make and a sustainable approach to manufacturing.

With this particular collaboration we worked with Millcan's existing fabric and manufacturing and used many of the great features they do so well. Having used their bags myself, it was easy to know what worked well and what I wanted to add.

SS: Finally, what's next for you? 

David Keyte: Continued collaborations and hopefully new fabrics and colours, but we want to have some longevity with the bags, so not too many new things - just enough to keep us busy!

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However modern the interpretation of 'adventurer', I don't I could be call one - the only unchartered territories I venture are new designers but that didn't stop me from wanting to explore the fruits of this collection. So, I borrowed a few of my favourite styles for a little shoot in the park...

"This project shows that shared values and passion lead to great results. We're very grateful for the chance of bringing form and sustainable function together in this collaboration with Universal Works."
Millican's Jorrit Jorritsma describing their first collaboration as an inspirational project.

Treasured Items... Raimund Berthold

Raimund Berthold's philosophy is simple; to design interesting, well made and inspirational clothing for everyday wear. With collections characterised by a utilitarian sense of colour and a silhouette that is free from defined shape in nylon, neoprene and synthetic fabrics cut against natural wool and cotton, Berthold is confident, sophisticated and refined. His are bold clothes, crafted for men led by inventive design and fit – not by the whims and fancies of fashion. Few designers are so considered. Safe in this knowledge, we were keen to ask the design talent to reveal his most cherished of possessions. Here, the Austrian born Central Saint Martins alumnus tells the tale of two very different items...

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Raimund Berthold and the airport security puzzling bracelet

"This bracelet is by artist and illusionist Marijke de Goey. I first discovered her work at a selling exhibition at Sotheby's a few years ago. I saw a wall that she had transformed with her cubic pieces and I was just drawn to the beauty of it. A couple of weeks later I saw an article about her in The Sunday Times which was accompanied by a picture. I just felt that she was fascinating. Time passed and I had almost forgotten all about it but then at another event I encountered more of her installations and instantly recognised her sitting at a piano, singing along and almost pushing the pianist off of the stool. Completely crazy but so intriguing. I went up to her. Introduced myself and told her how fantastic I thought she was and that I would love to own some of her work. I gave her my card before leaving the party but I didn't think she would even remember the meeting. The next morning which happened to be a Sunday, the phone rang at 9am and it was her. We met and then she created a small piece for our flat. We became friends and on my wedding day she made this stainless steel bracelet. 

I just love it and wear it often. It is my aesthetic. It's big and unusual. In fact, I almost got arrested at Heathrow Airport because the security guard just didn't believe that it was a bracelet. It took some persuading but I had to fight for it."
Raimund Berthold

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...and the memory triggering pac-a-mac

"Shortly after graduating, I packed my bags and flew over to New York for my first design position. It was quite emotional experience. I was tired from the flight but my new employers picked me up from the airport and we headed straight to the studio. I met the team and the creative director said to me, "Right, we have a special project for you because we think you have a mind that will be suited to the task… we would like you to make a pac-a-mac. We want you to design a coat that goes in to a bag but nothing like you have ever seen before, it needs to be completely new." At first I thought he was kidding but I agreed. I went to the hotel, couldn't sleep despite being exhausted and keen to impress, I started sketching. From that point on, I spent two months working on pac-a-macs. That was my introduction to New York. When I moved back to London about two years later, I thought it would be nice to start my own line with what I started my design career with. This series then evolved in to the collaboration I did with b Store. This was the very first jacket I created for them and the very first item I worked on for my own label. An oversized kimono sleeved raincoat that transforms in to a backpack. Now, I don't wear this one that much but it has huge sentimental value. It reminds me of New York and how Berthold began."

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Details... Braided horse hair straps

Tommy Ton and that Patrik Ervell backpack from SS11. Butter soft deerskin leather and braided horse hair straps ageing beautifully.

Unpicking the seams... Ally Capellino's Parker

Earlier this year whilst we were enjoying a rare spate of warm weather, Ally Capellino's AW 11 look book dropped and instantly reminded me just why Autumn is my favourite season. It instantly transported me to those mornings from late September through to early December where you can layer, wrap and protect yourself in an assortment of comfortable and practical fabrics; wool, tweed, cashmere, waxed cotton and anything else you can get our hands on are all layered on to envelop and comfort. With their roots in decaying industrial buildings and institutions, the colours of the collection were shadowy and dark and the perfect antidote to a hit and miss Summer. The much loved waxy group had grown and was especially strong in a WW1 warm khaki colour. whilst soft olives and browns predominated, but there were rich reds and putty colours to balance the collection. Alongside a new addition to the waxy group in the form of a handy rucksack, my eyes were drawn to a parka in matching Autumnal hues. With the product now in store, I just had to follow up and take another lustful look at it whilst talking through the design over a cup of tea and a biscuit with Ally Capellino's very own Alison Lloyd.

Now, when I think of Ally Capellino my mind is full of covetable bag classics for men and women, satchels made from canvas and leather with names like Vanessa, Lionel and Jeremy. All timeless and modern. However, the accessories line that I am most familiar with was not launched until 2000. The label has a past spanning twenty years that I had absolutely no idea about until I explored the impressive thirty year retrospective at the Wapping Project. As I walked around the wonderfully well curated space I followed the progression of the label, right from it's first womenswear collection in 1980, to the launch of Hearts of Oak in 1983 to designing Girl Guides and Brownie Uniforms in 1999. The area that obviously interested me most though is the launch of its menswear line in 1983. At the time, Alison Lloyd declared "I'm very proud of the men's clothing that we did at Ally Capellino between 1985 and 1995. Our reputation for tailoring started by breaking rules blossomed under Juno's careful skills. Our fabrics were subtle in colour and cut and he always wore them well. We began with five button jackets and anchor sweaters and worked through linen shorts, suits and shirts." 

Having built up a strong accessory offering over the course of the last decade, Lloyd has slowly been reintroducing a few key apparel pieces into her collection over the last couple of seasons. Dipping in to her archives, the aptly named Parker is the perfect example. "When we offered clothing previously, we almost always did them. I took one of our old one's from the 1980s, I could tell you the exact date of it now but pictures of it were included in the exhibition last year. It was white and I think it was shot for Vogue Traveller. I took it and graded it down for today. Garments were so much bigger in those days. Arm holes in the 80s were way down there and it was huge. For the pockets, I've reproduced this Swedish army storm pocket." Intently examining the sample and picking out aspects which were improved for the final design, Lloyd took another sip of tea and was satisfied.

This generous waxed cotton parka comes in two sizes for men and women. There are draw string ties at the waist and on the hood. A weather proof button fly covers the zip-up opening and there are two capacious front pockets with storm flaps as well as an inside breast pocket. The instant attraction of the Parker is its waxed cotton foundation of British Millerain. "It is exactly what we used for the bags this winter, the greasy wax. It needs to have those tiny touches of leather to tie it now. It should age beautifully and it would be nice to see it hanging on the back of the door in twenty years time with a few cobwebs." The Parker would certainly age better than I will.

Having slowly evolved the range of bags, accessories and collaboration over the last ten years, she is drawn to the challenge that clothing presents. "The way in which clothes are constructed and the fit of them is a great deal more interesting in a way than bags. There's a limit to bags, it doesn't have to fit anybody other than a shoulder or a hand. Clothing is more of a challenge and therefore more interesting to me again." Lloyd is approaching the addition of garments to her offering in much the same way as she would a new bag. "The reason I have kept away from clothing is this idea of creating a total look. If I were to do clothing again, I would like to do it like this, it is items instead of fashion, I don't want to make a collection for the catwalk anymore. I used to love doing it but I've done that and I'm not after a fashion trend. Classics are more interesting to me now." Lloyd will no longer be rushed by the expectations and demands of fashion. It is all too easy to be sucked in to the cycle of fashion seasons but having done it all before, the designer is ready for a change of pace. "I think it is because we have slowed down and because our bags change in an evolutionary way rather than themed collections. There are of course influences but you have to be rather subtle with bags. As we have slowed down we can perfect things. I can stay satisfied with items much longer than I used to which means they get better rather than discarded for something new. This is precisely how the clothing will work." I look forward to the fruits of Ally Capellino's sartorial evolution.

The rise of Nicomede Talavera

One of the real highlights of blogging has been our opportunity to watch design talent grow. Since the blog began way back in June 2007 we have seen the London menswear scene evolve at a tremendous pace and have been able to document the rise of so many talented individuals. Young Nicomede Talevera is certainly one of them.

Back in October 2009, we featured a debut capsule collection by the then Central Saint Martin’s BA Menswear Fashion Design student. Created before he embarked on his placement year, we were as impressed with his business nous as we were were by his obvious design talent and could not resist learning more about this exciting prospect. We kept in close contact with him as he honed his talent with placements 3.1 Philip Lim in New York and Lanvin Homme in Paris, and presented his sophomore collection back in February 2010. As Talavera toyed with the idea of a symbiotic relationship between the Gentleman and the Neanderthal in a showcase of incredible textures, layers and fabric experimentation,  we were hooked. Now, the London based menswear designer has just graduated from Central Saint Martins and presents his pulse racingly good ten look BA collection that showcases a ten piece bag collaboration with Eastpak. Inspired by restructive tailoring, Talevera offers a balance of playful yet functional, detail rich staples. The collection highlights his ongoing experimentation with fabrics to enhance a design whilst offering new opportunities and shapes in the process...

Lookbook imagery by Nik Hartley

In addition to sending through his impressive look book, the young talent sent through a selection of his sketches that just blew me away. I could not resist sharing them with you...

This Autumn, Talavera will begin his time on the MA Fashion Design course at CSM under the teaching of professor Louise Wilson. I for one, cannot wait to see what this young talent creates next.

The BoF and Bill Amberg Project

Today, Bill Amberg Accessories Ltd. and The Business of Fashion announce the launch of the Calgary, a co-designed, co-conceived design project and crowdsourcing experiment which will help better understand and spark conversation about how the collective wisdom of crowds could shape fashion businesses, big and small, in years to come.

The BoF's Imran Amed, like us, is a long time fan of Bill Amberg's much coveted leather products and this project is a welcome union of their two areas of expertise. As you should all know, from their studio in North West London, Bill Amberg create stunning bags to travel, work and enjoy for a lifetime. Each and every one of Bill’s bags are unique, practical and most importantly beautiful. Similarly, the Business of Fashion should need no introduction. Since the inception of this indispensable site in 2007, Imran Imran has emerged as one of the leading thinkers on the profound changes that digital media are having on the fashion industry. Rather than a straight forward design collaboration, this project positions itself as an opportunity to learn about the creative and development process of high-end leather goods production and is more an an impromptu experiment with crowdsourcing, which is currently such a hot topic in the fashion business. The landscape of fashion communication and commerce continues to evolve radically and crowdscourcing is just one development (as discussed by the FT last weekend) and this project is keen to explore the potential benefits.

The full Calgary spectrum

Aside from the intriguing crowdsourcing angle, the project of course involves the creation of a heart racingly good accessory. With the Calgary, the world's of Bill Amberg and The Business of Fashion collide and the result is a stunning range of unisex tote style bags, a balance of function. Named after Imran's hometown, the bags were designed and created at The Bill Amberg Studios in London, each one hand made by a Bill Amberg leather craftsman. Stylish and elegant on the outside, functional on the inside. The bag is designed to fit the lifestyle of the busy, modern gentleman or gentlewoman. The bag is entirely padded with neoprene to protect technology, and includes specially designed pockets for iPads, Blackberries, and iPhones. Perfect for fashion week...

The BoF's very own Imran Amed road testing his Calgary in New York. 

Shot by Susie. 

It has been more than a year in the making and Imran has met with Bill several times over the past twelve months to fine tune what was originally intended to be a small project, but has organically grown into something more interesting, substantial, and very BoF. Here we talk to Imran to learn more about the project and take a closer look at the range...

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SS: You, like us, have been a huge fan of Bill Amberg leather products but how did your admiration evolve in to a co-designed range?

Imran Amed: I first met Bill at Pitti Uomo one year ago. When a CNN journalist called me later that same day to chat about luxury brands best suited to the post-recessionary environment in 2010, Bill Amberg was top of mind. After I filmed an interview clip in his store, Bill asked if I might like to work on a bag with him. The collaboration grew from there.

SS: Named after your hometown, the Calgary range is is a unisex tote bag that balances fashion and function effortlessly. Could you talk us through the collaborative dynamic of the project, including your working relationship with Bill and his team.

Imran Amed: Bill and I first started discussing ideas for the bag over a year ago. I have met with Bill and his team team regularly over the past twelve months, at first to discuss ideas for the bag, to watch as the first prototype was built, to provide feedback on the prototype and then to discuss the launch strategy. We have learned a lot from each other from out various vantage points and areas of expertise, Bill with design and craftsmanship and BoF with our understanding of digital media.

Calgary Black (limited edition)

SS: The range has the demands and requirements of modern life at it's design heart. What are the key design elements?

Imran Amed: There are special pockets for all sorts of technology and the bag is entirely padded with neoprene for additional protection. There is also a removable shoulder strap, which is functional as well as being a nice design detail.

SS: Now, I spotted you road testing the bag at NYFW, how is it coping with the assault of relentless shows and presentations?

Imran Amed: Really well! I am always carting around so much with me during fashion week, and now everything has its rightful place.

Calgary Tan Nubuck (limited edition)

SS: The launch incorporates an intriguing and exciting experimental element, crowdsourcing. Three other versions will be created based on data provided by the users of BoF over a period of three weeks. Could you talk us through the logistics and mechanics?

Imran Amed: Originally we planned to do only one version of the bag, but Bill really liked the silhouette of the bag and saw potential to do it in several materials and colours. Six of these will be limited edition bags, available for sale right away and for three other bags we are seeking feedback to help us decide which versions to produce, in which quantities. We will share the results and lessons learned with BoF readers.

Calgary Tan Woven (limited edition)

SS: The crowdsourcing element is an experiment that develops the role of the consumer, here they are active participants in production. Despite the relationship between digital media and fashion being in its infancy, you have long been one of the leading thinkers on the profound changes that have already taken place. Is this the future of retail?

Imran Amed: I'm not sure I would say it is the definitive future, and not all consumers want to get involved in providing feedback, preferring instead to take a strong lead from designers, but there are evidently others who enjoy participating in the creative process.

SS: Now, you started the BoF back in 2007 and have since gained a global following as an essential daily resource for fashion creatives, executives and entrepreneurs in over 150 countries. What's next? How would you like to see this indispensable site evolve?

Imran Amed: We'd like to continue sparking and catalysing conversations in fashion boardrooms, classrooms and studios around the world about the opportunities and risks afforded to us by new new digital tools and business models. This little impromptu crowdsourcing experiment is just one example of that.

Calgary Black Ponyskin (limited edition)

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The launch of the Calgary is accompanied by an interactive video created by CraneTV, showing how the bag was designed and created. Furthermore, the video employs hotspotting technology enabling consumers to 'click-to-buy'/'click-to-vote'...

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As discussed above, for three of the (non limited-edition) bags, the project involves a crowdsourcing survey. The survey will determine which bags are most popular and which ones should be produced, and in what quantities. For those of you who would like to be involved, Imran Amed has created a customised survey link. Use your power wisely.

Ally Capellino for Apple ipad satchel

Practical, tactile, unstructured, casual, wearable and classic are all words that one associates with Ally Capellino. The label has carved out a niche for finely constructed bags for discerning men and women, providing accessories that are both protective and functional without compromising on style. Of course, collaboration has been a key facet of the recent development of the label. In 2006, Capellino created a collection of bags for Margaret Howell, Topshop and the bestselling artist’s set for the Tate Modern Gallery. However, the most intriguing collaboration began in 2008 when the label worked with Apple.

The resulting AO range sees original Ally Capellino bags and sleeves tailor made for the variety of mac products, from leather sleeves for your Air to a dispatch satchel for your pro. Computer bags and laptop sleeves tend only to focus on functionality. There is rarely any subtlety or element of eye catching design to them. Thankfully, Ally Capellino offer an alternative. As Apple create their seemingly ceaseless conveyor belt of covetable gadgets, Capellino adapts and creates beautiful means to carry and protect them. The latest fruits of the collaboration see Ally Capellino create her first ever exclusive Apple iPad satchel. Oh if only I had an ipad. Before the November 22nd launch, we managed to catch up with the designer to hear her thoughts on the latest addition to the range and learn that she'd love to try her hand at furniture design...

Ally Capellino for Apple ipad satchel in navy canvas.

SS: Could you introduce the ipad satchel in your own words...
Ally Capellino: Well in the vein of other computer bags that we have done it aims to keep away from looking like a typical black nylon thing and to have the relaxed and slightly retro feel that we specialise in. I hope that it doesn't shout 'I've got my iPad in here!'

SS: The range manages to feel decidedly classic while being truly innovative and modern at the same time. How did you approach the design process for the satchels?
Ally Capellino: I like the problem solving aspect of working to a brief, I suppose that the design side of it is just in my DNA now and so that leaves the other bit to work on. The market for these things is a bit different to our fashion market and the bags are being bought by some very particular people who want to keep their hardware looking perfect and in a virtually factory condition. It's sometimes a strange mix with our bags which we like to see aging gracefully. We have used some of the colours that have already worked well for the Apple products, ie the khaki, but then added some of the highlight colours that we have been getting a good response from in the main collection - ie orange.

Ally Capellino for Apple ipad satchel in leather.

SS: You first collaborated with Apple back in 2008, how did the collaboration arise and how has the partnership developed since?
Ally Capellino: Well the right person at Ally Capellino managed to get to speak to the right person at Apple Europe at just the right time. They were open to the idea, but it took us a year to come back to them and another six months to get the product right and probably the same again on contracts etc. They are big and American, and we are small and British so it's been an eye opener.

SS: How important is collaboration to the label and who would you love to collaborate with in the future?
Ally Capellino: Well different collaborations bring different benefits, this brings us a new European audience and a stable income(relatively) Our Tate collaboration allows us to get some really starter priced things out to a very varied audience, and then things like the bag that we did with Norse projects has brought us new international customers for our main business. I would love to do something with furniture or interiors as well, as long as the materials are nice and interesting I'll have a go.

Ally Capellino for Apple ipad. Khaki and orange canvas satchel.
Available from November 22nd.

Carrying Veja

For AW10, Veja debuts Project Numero Deux, the first collection of bags.

Veja are considered by many to be the greenest sneakers and rightly so. There is however, far more to them than their eco-friendly credentials might suggest. The French label produce simple, low profile trainers produced to a very high quality. With organic cotton from the Northeast of Brazil, wild Amazonian rubber and ecological leather, it is inventing new methods of work while still creating trainers with designs to get excited over. I have to be honest with you, when I hear the words eco friendly uttered my mind is filled with thoughts of clumpy hemp or folksy printed creations but fortunately Veja offer a different proposition. The label was set up in 2003 by two Frenchmen determined to fight worldwide deforestation, exhaustion of natural resources and Labour exploitation. They have managed to come up with one of the best looking fair trade products I've ever come across, none more so than the Indigenos range for AW10. Now they have extended their offering to bags with the launch of Project Numero Deux...

Veja's Project Numero Deux launches in September.

Back in April I popped down to see them at their London showroom to find out as much as I could about the brand. What struck me straight off was the close knit nature of the team (the London office has only three staff) and how they let the products do the talking for them. You won't see any fairtrade labels pasted on to any of their products. In addition to being impressed by its values and design, the showroom visit afforded me first glimpse of Project Numero Deux AW10. Now that a few months have passed and the launch date is imminent I can finally talk you through the range! Like the trainers, the Veja bags are made with ecological materials. The lining and canvas are made from organic cotton grown by a co-operative of producers in the Northeast of Brazil. The cotton is grown in the agro-ecology method which bans the use of chemicals and pesticides. While the leather is tanned with acacia extracts, a natural non polluting tannin. Let's take a closer look at the range...

Veja Acacia. Canvas style messenger bag.

The Acacia profile.

The Acacia also comes in Navy Biscuit, Burgundi Biscuit, Graphite Cappucino and Kaki Cappucino.

Veja Acacia Leather. Leather style available Burgundi, Cafe and Auburn

The Cafe version is stunning...

A closer look at the tanned leather.

The range. Veja Acacia in canvas and leather sits alongside the Mochila style backpack.

In recent seasons Veja has created a global chain that emphasises solidarity and the environment ranging from their small producers in Brazil to the European concept stores that we are all more familiar with. If you are interested in the range, Project Numero Deux AW10 will be available for pre-order from August 19th on oki-ni, while the launch party will be on September 2nd at Darkroom, Lamb’s Conduit Street.

ASOS' timely 'Best of British' collaborations

As the volcanic ash grounds Britain indefinitely it becomes ever more apparent that we are indeed an island. It seems that half of the people I know are stranded in some far away land, not least Susie who who is unable to return from New York until next weekend at the very earliest while those of us still left have a mere 93278 square miles to play with. This feeling of isolation could provoke cabin fever like hysteria but not on this blog, not at the moment anyway. Thankfully we are marooned on a land that has a wealth of craft and design talent. ASOS' soon to be fully launched 'Best of British' line sees nineteen brands combine for ten limited edition collaborations for SS10. Borne of a desire to work more closely with a selection of brands already stocked by the online retailer and from an aspiration to produce pieces that sum up the nation's wealth of design talent. The list of brands reads like a mouth watering catalogue of the very best British companies and designers. From two of my favourite designers in Tim Soar and Carolyn Massey working with Corgi and Slazenger respectively to unexpected unions in Bill Amberg and Southsea Deckchairs to Brady bags and Jas MB, there is just so much to covet for the warmer months ahead. I've selected a few of the very best collaborations with a little information on each for you below...

Bill Amberg and Southsea Deckchairs - This is one of the most unexpected collaborations but it encapsulates a very definite sense of British summertime. Everything created by Bill Amberg is unique; not just in sustainable materials and handmade quality, but in outstanding design and innovative production techniques. Made in England by West Country craftsmen, Bill Amberg bags are frequently made from hardwearing vegetable tanned leather, produced from one of the last remaining pit tanning operations in the UK. However, for this project Amberg has worked with Southsea Deckchairs utilising traditional deckchair fabrics for his bags. These bags take me back to summers spent making sandcastles.

Carolyn Massey and Slazenger - As you should all know by now, Carolyn Massey is one of our favourite designers while being one of the leading figures in pushing menswear at London Fashion Week. After having a good nosey around her workspace it was clear that Massey is at her happiest when researching something she has found, either an old picture or an actual garment. By taking elements from pieces she has seen and found while combining them with her personal vision for menswear she creates something new and exciting. For 'Best Of British' she has delved in to the archives of Slazenger and Wimbledon to help create her own classic tennis wear that transcends the courts.

Dr Martens and Ally Capellino - Dr Martens are synomous with youthful rebellion and here they've teamed up with the quintessentially British luggage and accessories brand Ally Capellino. Capitalisng on their strengths, the leather loving labels have combined to produce four style of DM, two shoes and two eight holed boots.

Brady and Jas MB - Two of the biggest names in UK bags have joined forces to produce two models that perfectly embody the very best of this island. Both are well know for their craftsmanship but their products normally mix in very different circles. Brady bags, renowned for their solid foundations with the fishing, hunting and shooting folk collaborate with Jas MB, a label known for their statement pieces that are beautiful and hand made in London.

Tim Soar and Corgi - Tim Soar always embraces a purist, modernist approach to menswear , creating classic clothing with unexpected fabrications. For his AW10 collection he shocked a few of us as it saw him collaborate with British heritage knitwear company Corgi. During our Menswear Day coverage we caught up with the designer and he enthusiastically declared that "Corgi are exactly what British manufacturers should be about, making an extremely high quality product that does not try to compete with the Far East on price." For 'Best of British' he has teamed up with the Welsh hosiery and knitwear brand once again to create a knitted sweater.

Grenson and the British Millerain Co Ltd - With a history spanning more than one hundred and forty years you would forgive Grenson for resting on its Goodyear Welted soles. However, when compared to other classic English shoe makers, they have been making the most positive and interesting moves in recent years. One of the clearest examples of this is their collaborations with well chosen brands from Rag & Bone to Albam to Tenue de Nîmes. These collaborations have reminded us that a classic English shoe brand doesn't necessarily have to follow one set path of shoe making and design. Here they have created an oxford, a lace up boot and and a desert boot which all showcase performance fabrics from the British Millerain Co Ltd.

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Being the style geek that I am, my only criticism of the project as it stands is that there is not enough information on how the products came to be. You all know how much I enjoy a spot of factory porn but sadly it is absent from the current coverage. I would have loved to have been properly introduced to the brands involved and to have been offered some insight in to the production. However, the fruits of this project remind us all that this island of ours is home to a great away of craft and design talent.

On the first day of Christmas...

If we've learnt anything about Christmas, it's that it's all about rampant consumerism, so this year our advent calendar will be a list of our wildest commercial desires. Expect to see the ridiculous, the sublime and the exclusive... we're hoping that Father Christmas subscribes to our RSS feed. You never know.

Behind our imaginary first door is Ally Capellino's 'Michael' bag. This leather satchel is the right mix of public school boy and chic Italian graphic designer (we're aware that that's a very specific mix). We can't decide whether we prefer it in brown or in red so one of each would be handy.

Bonus Christmassy feelings: Ally Capellino will be donating 5% of all takings in their shop and website during December to the Children with Aids charity. Aww.

Style Salvage Speaks to... Harris Elliott

After completing a degree in Interior Architecture and Design, Harris Elliott established himself as a leading stylist in fashion and music. Thankfully for us Harris shifted his immediate attention from the likes of Mark Ronson and turned to luggage design. The personal need to find a stylish yet practical laptop case evolved into a thoroughly modern, yet understated luxury luggage brand which is designed and manufactured in the UK. The debut H by Harris collection comprises of two lines, the Q hand quilted nappa leather and the SH wax hide leather collection. Styles include rucksacks, totes, weekend bags, satchels and laptop skins and of course the H jacket which Steve has been drooling over ever since he first saw it on Style Bubble. We caught up with Harris to talk about how the brand evolved from a laptop case, the collaboration with bstore and wanting to dress Obama in Casely-Hayford... imagine that for a few moments and then continue reading...

Style Salvage: We recently read that the need for a new laptop case inspired the label. After this need was satisfied how did the rest of the collection develop?
Harris Elliott: After I designed the Q1 Skin I observed that people stuff their laptops in regular rucksacks and bags. So I figured there was a need for bigger bags for people to put their laptops in. Ivan the buyer at Browns said to me that their customers always needed weekend bags, so I extended the shapes and the whole collection came to life.

SS: Talk us through the different elements of the collection and what inspired them.
HE: The two main elements are quilting- the Q range, in soft nappa and nubuck. My inspiration was the need for something soft but protective, handmade quilting was the obvious choice. For the Sh range, I took reference from a military tunic for the large pocket details, these are made in nubuck and hide. Generally the market has been over saturated with bags that are over embellished with zips and bits, I have designed a collection that is big on form low on unnecessary detailing, simple to look at, luxurious to touch.

SS: How did the collaboration with bstore come about? Who would you love to collaborate with in the future?
HE: I went to see Matthew and Kirk at 'B' for advice on how to go about collaborating with designers. They asked if I would collaborate with them, I thought they were joking as they often do, but they were deadly serious. We sketched designs separately, met in the middle and took the best of each others designs. I would love to collaborate with Neil Barrett, Junya and Hussein Chalayan.

SS: What was the first and last item you remember designing?
EH: The first thing I designed was a t-shirt at school with the logo for the band 5Star printed on it, they were my favourite group back then. The last thing was a bespoke vanity case I'm planning for AW10.

SS: In recent years there has undoubtedly been an increased interest and demand for bags in men's fashion. Do you, like us, cringe at the terms bandied about in the press though, for example murse, manbag etc? How do you feel about the increase in public interest that caused the creation of these terms?
HE: My favourite term was coined by the stylist Jason Hughes, the mlutch - man clutch. In general it's all media spin for journalists who have nothing better to write, just a bit of fun really.

SS: As a stylist you have worked with high profile personalities like Mark Ronson, Kelly Rowland, Nike and French Connection. If you could dress anyone, who would it be and what would you put them in?
HE: It would have to be the Queen and Barack Obama. Elizabeth Regina I would dress in Boudicca, and Obama in Casely-Hayford and Spencer Hart. And coming back to earth I would love to work with Vincent Cassel and Natalie Portman.

SS: What item of clothing (if any) do you wish that more men wore?
HE: Plus fours; Tintin had the look sewn up, and Christopher Nemeth produced the best version of these back in the day.

SS: How would you describe your own personal style?
HE: Unrefined with layers and with the occasional bright moments.

SS: What bag did you carry with you today? What was inside it?
HE: Carrying two bags today my Q3 Rucksack and SH2 Shopper, as always filled with a week's worth of useless stuff that never gets looked at day to day.

SS: If you could go back in time and experience any fashion moment, what would it be?
HE: Have to be turn of last century where you would wear formal clothes even if you were cleaning the streets.

SS: Where do you see yourself in 10 years?
HE: I would like to follow in the footsteps of Thomas Heatherwick, Marc Newson and Philipe Starck designing anything from bags to furniture to architecture.

SS: Have you got any recommendation that you'd like to share with our readers? (shops, hairdressers, designers, websites, bars)
HE: Favourite cafe has to be Royal Teas in Greenwich. I never cut my hair but the best locksmith (dreadlocks that is) is Don Abaka in Kennington. Instead of going to a bar get your own beer and cake, my own concoction and sit in a park drinking and eating with friends. Best shop is DA Binder for old school shop fittings. The Adam Kimmel Claremont video has to be seen!