Treasured Items... Raimund Berthold

Raimund Berthold's philosophy is simple; to design interesting, well made and inspirational clothing for everyday wear. With collections characterised by a utilitarian sense of colour and a silhouette that is free from defined shape in nylon, neoprene and synthetic fabrics cut against natural wool and cotton, Berthold is confident, sophisticated and refined. His are bold clothes, crafted for men led by inventive design and fit – not by the whims and fancies of fashion. Few designers are so considered. Safe in this knowledge, we were keen to ask the design talent to reveal his most cherished of possessions. Here, the Austrian born Central Saint Martins alumnus tells the tale of two very different items...

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Raimund Berthold and the airport security puzzling bracelet

"This bracelet is by artist and illusionist Marijke de Goey. I first discovered her work at a selling exhibition at Sotheby's a few years ago. I saw a wall that she had transformed with her cubic pieces and I was just drawn to the beauty of it. A couple of weeks later I saw an article about her in The Sunday Times which was accompanied by a picture. I just felt that she was fascinating. Time passed and I had almost forgotten all about it but then at another event I encountered more of her installations and instantly recognised her sitting at a piano, singing along and almost pushing the pianist off of the stool. Completely crazy but so intriguing. I went up to her. Introduced myself and told her how fantastic I thought she was and that I would love to own some of her work. I gave her my card before leaving the party but I didn't think she would even remember the meeting. The next morning which happened to be a Sunday, the phone rang at 9am and it was her. We met and then she created a small piece for our flat. We became friends and on my wedding day she made this stainless steel bracelet. 

I just love it and wear it often. It is my aesthetic. It's big and unusual. In fact, I almost got arrested at Heathrow Airport because the security guard just didn't believe that it was a bracelet. It took some persuading but I had to fight for it."
Raimund Berthold

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...and the memory triggering pac-a-mac

"Shortly after graduating, I packed my bags and flew over to New York for my first design position. It was quite emotional experience. I was tired from the flight but my new employers picked me up from the airport and we headed straight to the studio. I met the team and the creative director said to me, "Right, we have a special project for you because we think you have a mind that will be suited to the task… we would like you to make a pac-a-mac. We want you to design a coat that goes in to a bag but nothing like you have ever seen before, it needs to be completely new." At first I thought he was kidding but I agreed. I went to the hotel, couldn't sleep despite being exhausted and keen to impress, I started sketching. From that point on, I spent two months working on pac-a-macs. That was my introduction to New York. When I moved back to London about two years later, I thought it would be nice to start my own line with what I started my design career with. This series then evolved in to the collaboration I did with b Store. This was the very first jacket I created for them and the very first item I worked on for my own label. An oversized kimono sleeved raincoat that transforms in to a backpack. Now, I don't wear this one that much but it has huge sentimental value. It reminds me of New York and how Berthold began."

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