Details: Continuation of a theme

Triple Major's very own Richie Chan wearing two pieces from Digest's SS11 collection.

Oliver Spencer's Shoe Shop

Oliver Spencer founded his eponymous label in 2002 and has always made clothing that is seen rather than heard, slowly evolving his concept as and when he sees fit and the right opportunity arises. He approaches everything from a luxury standpoint but then injects functionality to create collections that combine classic English style with hints of Americana and Japanese ideas to consistently dish out a modern sophisticated aesthetic. The hearty recipe of quality fabrics, modern fits, old school construction, characteristic details and exquisite craftsmanship is served in everything and anything he turns his hand to. Now, in retaliation to the lack of quality shoe shops for men and with the few that do exist left wanting with regards to the retail experience, Spencer has taken matters into his own hands and opted to expand his empire with the opening of his second store on Lamb's Conduit Street. We've said many times on the blog that strolling down this special street in Bloomsbury feels like a little retail reconnaissance and Oliver Spencer has played no small part in that.

Located just a short walk away from his clothing store, the space is Oliver Spencer's antidote to the current crop of large scale, over stocked and confused shoe floors that monopolise the market. Here, in collaboration with Simon Spiteri, Spencer offers the opportunity to unearth a great pair of shoes and a more than pleasant retail experience on every visit. In essence it is an old chool shoe shop for the modern guy, the Oliver Spencer guy. The guy who wants quality and style on their feet. Having been opened for two weeks, we decided to catch up with the man himself to talk shop, Lamb's Conduit Street and his hopes for the future...

SS: What was the catalyst for a standalone shoe store?

Oliver Spencer: It stems from the idea of having one foot in the past and the rest of your body in the future. For me, it is all about good old fashioned shop keeping. I sell to all of these fantastic department stores but they all have these huge concession shoe areas. From their viewpoint, the focus is on offering thousands of shoes across a huge area. I wanted to offer an alternative. I was drawn to the idea of offering a different type of shoe buying experience. What happened to the old way of shop keeping? Their just aren't many shoe stores in London and I just needed to open one. Of course Paul Smith has a few, Lodger has a great store, as does Lobb's and Cleverly in the Bond Street Arcade but they tend to offer quite classic shoes. I wanted a store that was based around proper shopkeeping. Where you have a particular customer in mind and you offer everything from a £55 pair of pumps all the way upto a £250 pair of Goodyear Welted shoes and this guy can buy everything in between. He can start at Converse, go to Vera, Quoddy's and go to us. So basically, I wanted to provide all of the shoe options that our customer would need.

SS: The store is tightly edited yet covers all shoe needs...

Oliver Sepncer: Exactly. The other thing that I wanted the store to be and again, this is most unlike other shoe stores, is for it to be highly minimal. Basically, the idea was to do everything on a small footprint. Very simple, very straightforward. For example, all of the wood in the store is made in Dorset by a company called by Another Country and it is all so beautiful. I want the customers to be able to go in the store and be able to look at a pair of shoes for what they are and not to be bombarded by so much choice. I got in to partnership with a guy called Simon Spiteri, who used to work at Liberty's and he buys in all of the other products in the store and it has worked very well.

SS: Could you tell us abit about the buying process and how you work with Simon Spiteri?

Oliver Spencer: The process is hugely collaborative. it was key that Simon understood exactly what I was designing and we both understood who we were making and buying shoes for. We looked very closely at brands, not only what they produce but their price structure as well. Recently someone told me that I was really lucky to have Gourmet in the store because apparently they are quite difficult to get. I just love their shoes. I personally prefer them to Converse but then, Converse have a different pull.

SS: You've hinted at the type of customer that the shop targets but could describe the Oliver Spencer shoe man in more detail?

Oliver Spencer: Basically, he is different ages of me. He is anything from twenty five to fifty five. He's eclectic. He buys quality. He's got a mind for it and is in to design. He understands our concept and buys in to what we do. He would kick around in his Converse, go to a meeting in his Goodyear's, holiday in his Quoddy's, he does the whole thing. We've tried very hard to offer everything and anything he could need. Actually, we're currently looking at sandals. Just because there aren't many great sandals on the market. I'm tempted to go back to school with it, to create a school sandal for blokes in the future. Right now though, we are looking forward to Autumn/Winter. This is when proper shoe business is done.

SS: The brands bought in compliment your own offering very well...

Oliver Spencer: With our two own lines, we are looking to cover as much as we can. I will always want to buy in other brands to compliment our own offering though. It is important for us to be both fluid and interesting.

SS: How has the reaction been since the opening?

Oliver Spencer: Well, we've been open for two weeks now and we've sold shoes every day. Some days just a couple, others a number of pairs. It certainly feels right and quite exciting.

SS: Now, I love Lamb's Conduit Street and there seems a real sense of community here...

Oliver Spencer: There really does. The street has great community in it, with a mix of local and professional, generally very open minded people. Cathal from Folk was actually the person who recommended the street to me. He just said "Come and open a store, it'll be fine, you'll love it" and he was right. I have never looked back.

SS: Since launching the label in 2002, you've slowly grown and added to your offering. How do you see the shoe shop developing in the future?

Oliver Spencer: We are slow and I'm proud of that. We evolve naturally. Things come our way and we work in our way. Nothing is forced. The plan, after this is fully up and running of course, is to open a few more in London, in a number of different locations, Redchurch Street, Berwick Street and perhaps Borough but who knows. Shoes will remain the focal point but we will also offer other products, including gloves and bags.

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The small but perfectly formed and outfitted space is a welcome addition, both to Lamb's Conduit Street and the retail scene in general. In collaboration with Simon Spiteri, Spencer serves up shoes for almost every occasion. From Northampton made brogues to American made moccasins, trainers to perforated espadrilles, this tightly edited space has your feet covered. Now, I could wax lyrical about the store but I'd only bore you, the best way to get a feel of the place is to explore it. The store affords discoveries at every turn and below are a few of the items that caught my eye...

Well picked Oliver Spencer accessories and the latest addition to the store, an old school desk complete with etchings of love, hate and the odd piece of chewing gum.

The OSA154 Deck Scarf Multi Check proudly sits on the old school desk.

OSA160 Bedford Shoe.

The Portugal made Spencer Cricket Shoe is a lightweight derby style shoe.

OSA161 Chukka Boot Green Suede. A welcome addition to the summer shoe wardrobe.

Quoddy's Mushroom Suede Blutcher. A classic shoe with full moccasin construction.

Quoddy's Cognac Suede Blucher.

The Spencer Kyak in a beautiful mix of leather and suede.

Vera Santander Perforated Canvas is a great take on the Summer espadrille.

Gourmet's Uno Lo provides a refreshing change from the basic canvas pump.

The Spencer Kyak in front of the fireplace.

Quoddy's Brown Leather Blucher overlooking Lamb's Conduit Street.

The Shoe Shop is now open at 37 Lamb's Conduit Street.

Introducing Mitsu

Over the last few months I have heard murmuring of a new label that I was told I would love. On a number of different occasions both friends and colleagues excitedly mentioned the launch of Mitsu. As the debut offering lands in LN-CC, I share their excitement and happily introduce the brand to you.

Mitsuhiro Kokita graduated from Central Saint Martins with an MA in Menswear in 2004 and has since honed his design talent through working with the likes of Untitled Men, Ginza Ichibankan and most recently Comme des Garcons. Now, whilst working as a lecturer at Seian University of Art and Design he has launched his eponymous line, Mitsu. Here, he plays with dualities. It strives to blur distinctions of old and new, natural and synthetic, classic and modern. Before we learn more about the label itself, let me share a few of the first product shots with you...

Product shots courtesy of LN-CC

The starting point was a simple tie dyed Rock t shirt. With the help of a dying factory, Kokita experimented with various techniques of bleaching nylon and synthetics. During this period of tie dyeing trial and error, the design talent looked to reimagine familiar classics of menswear. Through the dying of synthetics and the enlargement of iconic detailing, Kokita breathes fresh life in to the trench coat, the pea coat, the hunting jacket and the rain cloak.

To mark the release of the first few products, we caught up with Mitsuhiro Kokita to learn more about the label and the man behind it all. Here we discuss the roots of Mitsu, his desire to create something new and his hopes for the future...

SS: What were your inspirations, your dreams and the driving catalyst behind launching Mitsu?

Mitsu: Basically, I want to create things which excite people in the same way that I was excited by all fashion things since high school. Something which makes your life well is what I want to create. I still do not know how to make it under good balances. I do not know is it possible or not but I'll try. It is difficult to explain my inspirations, dream and etc. because I am still struggling with them. I love fashion and I just want to make fashion in my own way.

SS: Aside from it being your name, what does Mitsu mean to you?

Mitsu: I hope that someday MITSU will remind people of my clothes rather than myself.

SS: The starting point for the collection was the tie dye rock t shirt. How did the collection evolve out of this single garment?

Mitsu: The tie dye rock t shirt is made of cotton, a natural material and it is the inner garment. I wished to experiment with just tie dyed outer garment which are made of synthetic material. I am a bit perverse.

SS: Could you talk us through the process you devised for tie dying the synthetics?

Mitsu: I did not devise it. I just discovered it. It is just the result of a great deal of experimentation and with the informed help of the dying factory.

SS: The collection reimagines menswear classics and breathes fresh life in to vintage garments. Is there a moment or era of style that you are particularly drawn to?

Mitsu: The reason I am drawn to the classics is because that synthetic materials are not classic material. Synthetic material reminds me of sportswear. I just put the sport image to classics and vice versa. There is not a particular era, but I love photos. Like Yamamoto and many others, I just loves August Sander’s photos.

SS: Your design aesthetic is predominantly focused on the detail. What are the details that you wish more men gave more thought to?

Mitsu: I hope you get an atmosphere through details. Detail is detail. Detail is a very important aspect, though.

SS: What excites you about the future of menswear?

Mitsu: Menswear has some many rules. I would like to create a new rule.

SS: Finally, what's next for Mitsu? How would you like to see the label evolve over the coming seasons?

Mitsu: I just started my own brand. So now it’s a time to create a good infrastructure of the brand. I want to create an epoch –making design, but before that, I want to produce good products and continue my brand. If I continue my brand, someday I create what I want and also you want. I am doing things again and again until the day.

Captains of Industry

Melbourne's Captains of Industry is the type of back lane tribute to gentlemanly living that I long to lose a few hours in. Now, if it hadn't been for Susie's recent trip down under, I would have absolutely no idea about its existence. Tucked away up a flight of stairs the collaborative space offers almost everything and anything a sartorially inclined man could ever need. An outfitter and cafe, the first floor space brings together three leaders from their respective fields under one roof. Thom Grogan offers a made to measure suit service whilst Steven Blick trims and wet-shaves from vintage barbers' chairs and James Roberts makes bespoke shoes by hand on site. It appears to be the perfect marriage of menswear and hospitality.

Thankfully for us, a camera wielding Susie decided to brave the staircase to become our roving reporter for the day. Her collection of excitedly snapped shots help bring to life her glowing tales of a wonderful concept of coffee, cut cloth and coiffed hair...

Thanks to Susie for all of the images.

Looking over these images now I can't help but question why London does not have anything quite like Captains of Industry. A place that can satisfy every one of my greedy demands. A place of toasted chorizo sandwiches, well cut suits, perfect flat whites, freshly cut hair, gin in tea cups, handmade brogues and so much more. I like the idea of investing an afternoon in such an inviting space. The last twelve months has seen a number of exciting menswear stores open their doors in our capital but this is something quite special indeed. Captains of Industry is a cafe centred style retreat I long to escape to.

Style Stalking... Brandon

It has been a few months since we last lurked in the shadows to partake in a spot of Style Stalking. This seven day diary style feature has become one of the most popular sections of the site and we are constantly on the search for a diverse mix of stylish individuals. After some fruitless outfit voyeurism, we can make up for the barren spell with a real treat. With the help of a few friends, Feigned Perfection's Brandon has captured a full week's worth of his layered ensembles for us to savour.

Brandon is a man who knows how to use colour and play with textures to make truly wonderful, multi faceted outfits. He is someone who knows how to balance vintage, high street and a mix of labels (although, he is a self confessed Issey addict) in such a way that the admiring observer has absolutely no idea where he shops. Now, we could continue to wax lyrical about his style but that would only delay you from the real treat of the upcoming visuals. Without further ado, here's the man himself introducing his diary...

"I couldn't really write an introduction to my own Style Stalking feature, without saying how much of an honour it is to be asked to do this. The following seven days worth of clothing is a snapshot of the schizophrenia that is my style. If you've read my blog, or know me at all; you'll know that there are two things that define the way I present myself: messiness, and layering. I'm not sure if the extent of either of these really translates over the internet, but hopefully some of you won't walk away with the feeling you get after a really intense thrifting experience (I'm talking thrift by the lb. here people). Until doing this, I had no idea how much Issey Miyake and Issey-sub brands are in my regular rotation… I guess I have Issey issues. The good photos were taken by my friends, otherwise the photos were on my fire escape with my timer mode (so apologies for the lack of quality...)"

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Day One - Happy birthday to me!

"My birthday happened to be on a particularly bad week for me so I needed my clothing to bring me up to an appropriate level (or layer… ugh I know, bad) of good spirits. So in that regard, everything I wore was a little nugget of intrigue. From the weird and wrongly worn Undercover jumper (it's really a jumper with a tiny baby sweater going through the stomach. Yeah I told you it was wrong (so wrong it's right?)) to my Grandfathers tuxedo jacket (and Dad's handkerchief as a pocket square). It was also the first outing of my Issey Miyake "Vulcan Parachute" Trenchcoat. From the sci-fi techno fabric with pleated back and elbows, to the way it flies in the wind: this coat a great example of the futuristic vitality of Issey Miyake clothing."

Issey Miyake "Vulcan Parachute" trenchcoat, Grandfathers tuxedo jacket, Pleats Please yellow cardigan (worn upside down), Undercover "Toddler Attached" sweater (worn with my head through the bottom of the toddlers jumper (could this sound anymore f*cked up?), Ivan Grundhal tulle cardigan, Liberty London shirt, Haat printed green trousers, Alejandro Ingelmo Wooster boot/sneaker/wingtips, Issey Miyake organza bow tie, Vintage ugly duckling brooch, Dads handkerchief (pocket square) and Uniqlo socks

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Day Two - College Bored

"I find school can be quite trying for me, despite it being a "fashion" college my aesthetics in both design and choice of clothing tends to be misunderstood. I guess this is a good example of the strange way I think things can go together to make me feel powerful maybe? Definitely cosy and therefore at ease. The photos were taken by Wax of Pop, Bop and Snap, hence they're lovely."

Vintage fringe jacket from London, Opening Ceremony x Pendleton wool suit (with the jacket worn upside down), Ivan Grundhal deconstructed cotton/wool jacket, Haat asymmetric jumper, Kenzo printed shirt, SURevolution belt worn as necklace, Dr Martens metallic boots, Peter Pilotto x Kipling school bag, Ralph Lauren silk scarf wrapped around wrist and a nickel cuff from a friend

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Day Three - Typical Work Day

"Decided to do my version of minimalism today. I recently managed to get a large amount of Pleats Please (Yes I realize I sound a little like an Issey Miyake advertisement) for a song and the sculptural qualities continue to amaze me. This was my first top from the brand and I love the way it clings and bulges in seemingly random ways."

Pleats Please mid sleeve shirt, Paul Smith digital fishing print shirt, Zero + Maria Cornejo fold shorts, Issey Miyake APOC leggings and Alejandro Ingelmo sneakers

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Day Four - Style Like U Book Launch

"Well what can I say? My friends at Style Like U have been working towards this book for a long time, and I was happy. 'nuff said…"

Issey Miyake "future rainforest" biker jacket (The design team traveled to Brazil for this collection and collected actual colour samples as close to real rainforest colours as possible!), Great Grandfathers waistcoat (worn inside out because I think the shredding aging lining is beautiful), Thrifted sheer sweatshirt, Club Monaco floral shirt, Thrifted saturated print skirt, Issey Miyake Fete triangle pleats trousers, Alejandro Ingelmo Woosters, Traditional Mexican scarf, Paul Smith x Lola raffia brooch, Vintage elephant necklace, Rope bracelet from The Brooklyn Flea, same RL scarf and cuff as before and a vintage bag also from The Brooklyn Flea

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Day Five - Another School Day

"Ok so this is a very heavy outfit. Heavy on the heavy, heavy on the earthy warm colours and heavy on the Haat (yes another Issey brand...)."

Issey Miyake APOC cutout jacket, Thrifted Ports 1961 red mohair jacket, Haat african textile dress worn as a jumper, +J blue shirt, Haat folder trousers, well loved Chucks, Haat necklace, Charity Shop tie

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Day Six - Upstate Excursion

"Another outing for one of my favorite jackets, visiting the real world of Upstate New York. Wore a hoodie to fit in more… This is my version of practicality: Boots, shorts 'n leggings (for movement), flannel, you get the picture. The photos were taken by my friend Autumn Seguin of The Memory Mine."

Issey Miyake APOC cutout jacket, Random hoodie, Uniqlo flannel shirt, Uniqlo Henley, Zero + Maria Corenjo fold shorts, +J leggings, Yohji Yamamoto x Dr Martens, Vintage Dooney & Bourke bag

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Day Seven - Supermarket Sweeper

"Yes. This really is what I wear to grocery shop."

Cos zipper sweater, Richard Chai cashmere sweater, Thrifted flannel shirt, Haat skirt, Thrifted Laura Ashley skirt, Margiela sneaker sandals, Pierre-Louis Mascia scarf, Guatemalan cross-body bag.

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