LFW: Showroom Next Door: The Inoue Brothers

The Inoue Brothers' knitwear mixes Japanese sensibility with Danish simplicity by way of Bolivian craftsmanship.

The time has come to excitedly turn the page on New York and begin the next chapter of the AW10 season. Ladies and gentlemen London Fashion Week is upon us. I eased myself in to proceedings with a visit to Showroom Next Door at 16 Hanover Square. The Touba Distribution curated showroom allowed me the opportunity to inspect and salivate over a few of my favourite brands and introduced me to a few new ones. I spent the best part of two hours fully immersing myself in the new collections of Mr. Hare, Casely-Hayford, H by Harris and Bruno Chaussingnand before being acquainted with Japanese denim specialist Sable Clutch and amazing knitwear by The Inoue Brothers. I had meant to only post once on the showroom but as I spent so much time with each of the brands I think it only proper to showcase each of the brands individually. So over the course of the next few days expect to see sneak peeks of the AW10 collections of Mr. Hare, Casely-Hayford and H by Harris but first up, let's look at...The Inoue Brothers.

Hand Knitted Chunky bubble scarfs which mix Alpaca with wool hang alongside super fine Alpaca pullovers.

The label was unsurprisingly founded by two brothers, Satoru and Kiyoshi Inou in 2004. The brothers are Japanese but were born and raised in Copenhagen and the label certainly reflects these roots, Japanese sensibility of craft and Scandinavian simplicity. By 2005 the brothers formed a unique collaboration with the crafts women of Bolivia to create hand knitted Alpaca garments through a network of traditional Bolivian knitters. Each piece is made by artisan mothers who knit from home. This collaborative project allows these professional mothers who are unable to leave for the city due to family commitments to continue to produce and exert their extraordinary skill.

The Andes Pullover. 100% Super fine South American Baby Alpaca in exciting colours and designs

Since launching The Inoue Brothers have focused on continually using original fibres from South America including, Pima Cotton, Andes Highland Wool, Alpaca and Baby-Alpaca. The different materials have different characteristics and functions. They all originated from the extremely high altitudes of the Andes and the climate of South America which gives them a common but unique quality. I was fortunate enough to spend some time with Satoru this afternoon at the showroom and he hinted that the label will experiment with alternative fabrics for the coming seasons and even mentioned seaweed fabric blends with alpaca. However, for AW10 the collection mainly showcases 100% super fine Baby Alpaca but this soft luxurious has been used in a myriad of stunning designs. Satoru informed me that the Incas, who once ruled the natural environment of the alpaca spun the remarkable fibre exclusively for their divine royalty.

The Andes Pullover. 100% Super fine South American Baby Alpaca in exciting colours and designs.

The alpaca and especially the baby-alpaca has a unique cashmere-like softness and because the animals live in the harsh climate of the Andes is has developed a natural thermal characteristic which keeps and releases the body-heat according to the surrounding temperature. For AW10 a sophisticated blend of Mulberry Silk and Baby-alpaca. These garments will be of the highest quality and represent the most exclusive part of this impressive collection.

1 of a kind woven scarf made from 100% Super fine South American Baby Alpaca

With sustainability and social responsibility as their key values and starting point, The Inoue Brothers' knitted garments are the products of ordinary human decency, respect and of the finest craftsmanship produced with pride. Now that I have been acquainted with the brand I will certainly keep a keen eye on its development. For me, the labels cocktail of Japanese sensibility with Danish simplicity by way of Bolivian craftsmanship is something to toast.

Hand knitted chunky bubble cardigan scarf alongside a one of a kind woven ruana.

Style Like Brandon

My guide in New York Brandon Acton Bond as featured on Stylelikeu.
To him this outfit reads hippy from the year 2150." Issey Miyake Green Sheer Top, Brown Patterned Shirt purchased at the Brick Lane Market in London, Vintage Avon Owl Pin.

As I was somewhat unexpectedly absorbed in to the busy schedule of New York Fashion, the amount of free time I had to roam the streets, visit exhibitions and most importantly to shop, was greatly limited. There were just so many strong presentations and shows that I could not ignore. However, on the penultimate day the schedule allowed a full day off. As this was only my second time in the Big Apple, I needed a guide and thankfully an Englishmen living in New York jumped at the chance to take me around time. I feel just like the Sting song in this big city but for good friend Brandon Acton-Bond it is home. I first met Brandon about two years when he excitedly rushed up to Susie in the boutique shoe department of Topshop and we have kept in sporadic contact ever since. Whenever our paths cross I always admire his style, so who better to be my New York guide. During an afternoon where we faced blizzard like conditions he took me to his favourite stores including Issey Miyake, Jil Sander, Seven, Beacons Closet and About Glamour but sadly I didn't take my camera with me. So unfortunately I did not document my trip but I can still introduce you to my guide because he has just been featured over on Stylelikeu.

Brandon believes that clothes should be considered everyday mood elevators. Vintage Nurses Cape, Navy Button-Down Shirt purchased at Opening Ceremony, Comme des Garcons for H&M

Women's Blazer

As you can tell from these images, Brandon loves nothing more than mixing romantic with futuristic, like the touch of capes, ponchos, and hoods with his silver trench and sleek aviators. He has a newly discovered passion for Issey Miyake after meeting a passionate consumer of this particular couturier and we spent at least an hour exploring the Tribecca Store. I could wax lyrical about his thirst for knowledge and passion for personal style but I think it best to point you in the direction of the wonderful piece over on Stylelikeu and let the man himself talk through his style below...

Brandon from Stylelikeu.com from Stylelikeu on Vimeo.

I first discovered Stylelikeu back in June and have kept a keen eye on the site ever since as it continually showcases a slew of innovative young men and women in fashion and art. Mother and daughter duo Elisa & Lily created this site from a pure fascination of people with great style and this is of course is a fascination we share here at Style Salvage. We are so used to reacting to the odd snapshot of people with style across our favourite street style blogs but it is great that this site digs a little deeper and celebrate true, individual style.

NYFW: Siki Im AW10

Siki Im's 'New Era' Shot by Shawn Brackbill for Dazed Digital.

I am now sitting at my desk in London a little bleary eyed and somewhat dazed after a surprisingly busy stay in New York. During my time in the big apple I was ever on the quest to discover new designers to share with you. I stumbled across one of my favourite finds just when my thoughts were drifting back to the busy schedule at LFW and my desperate need to pack. On my final night of New York Fashion Week I came across Siki Im and his band of lost bankers...

Shot by Shawn Brackbill for Dazed Digital.

I do not feel too bad about not being familiar with this exciting design prospect because things are moving quickly for Im. Thanks to google I've discovered that Im used to be a senior designer at Helmut Lang from 2006 to 2009 before launching his own line for SS10. The former architect challenged conventional notions of men’s fashion with meticulous tailoring, architectural details and inventive silhouettes in a collection inspired by Golding's Lord of the Flies. This debut collection saw him awarded the prestigious Ecco Domani prize in the menswear category and ultimately an invite back for AW10. One can appreciate the polished look of Im's handcrafted, tailored jackets but the real drama lies inside. Im is a designer who places equal importance on the jacket’s interior and sees him use transparent silk organza as lining, allowing wearers to see loose threads that fuse the seams together. The designer hinted at the vision of his sophomore collection in a blog piece over on Interview where the designer teased, "the kids from The Lord of The Flies have grown up and are now facing a world of inconsistency and change." The collection entitled 'New Era' recounts a fictional satire of city workers and bankers, criticising their greedy values yet exploiting their sartorial traits. These are the men that grew up, got jobs on Wall Street and then lost it all.

Shots by Shawn Brackbill for Dazed Digital.

At the end of AW09 I bemoaned the quantity of designers who focused on the negativity of the recession or at least played it extremely safe. The big 'R' word is surely weighing on the minds of the majority of designers but thankfully few took it up as a theme for AW10 because very few could turn it in to such an interesting, multi faceted collection. Here, Im translated the fall of banker with asymmetric cashmere felt coats, lapel less jackets, quilted skirts both long and short paired with asymmetric knitwear and quilted trench coats. Leather accessories including belts, key-chains, suspenders and totes are made with brand 'Made by Eugene'. Together with the New York Times printed hats and belts and the presentation narrative of office booths, this was a deconstructed interpretation of that lost ex-banker and their sartorial traits. As well as discovering a new talent, this collection might just change my attitude towards those fallen, financial fools...

Shot by Shawn Brackbill for Dazed Digital.

NYFW: Thom Browne

Thom Browne playing with proportions inside the opulent setting of the Armory. Backstage shot by Shawn Brackbill for Dazed Digital.

When I decided to make the trip New York for this seasons shows there was really only one show that I was dying to see, Thom Browne. The volume of menswear design talent showing in this city is undoubtedly growing and exciting but the shows tend to lack the theatrics that make them truly memorable. Thom Browne however is something else. Browne is a designer known as much for his show theatrics and sense of humour as his shrunken tailored silhouette. I was lucky enough to take my place inside the grandeur of the Armory and Browne did not disappoint. For A/W10 Browne fondly glances back to the golden age of New York and collegiate life but brings it right back in to the modern day as he plays with proportions, prints and mixing tailoring with sportswear. As I watched the show I somehow managed to don a wry smile even though my jaw was touching the polished wood floors.

Backstage shot by Shawn Brackbill for Dazed Digital.

Browne might be known for his shrunken silhouette but inside the grandeur and opulence of the Armoury, the theatrical designer pushed himself and menswear forward with a terrific display of diversity. Proportions have always been a key to Browne's aesthetic but here he combines elongated knitwear with chunky ski lodge jumpers, priestly stoles with tightly corseted outerwear, long dresses with raccoon fur tails dangling like fringe, even the accessories were blown up with briefcases the size of suitcases and huge fur clutches. All of which combined to remind us that Thom Browne equates to much more than an ankle revealing grey flannel suit.

Backstage shot by Shawn Brackbill for Dazed Digital.

Ever since he launched his own label in 2001, has of course received many plaudits but he has also received a great deal of negative reviews - there is a constant criticism that the designer is making clothes that look weird on anyone who isn't Thom Browne... I have however seen many Thom Brownes walking the streets this year. His designs have slowly eroded many of our beliefs on what a good suit should be and he has made us question many things about something so simple (or so we thought) as the practical, 'safe' option, the suit. He has done this to such an extent that the same people who initially laughed at the proportions of his creations are now desperate to replicate his shrunken aesthetic, constantly feeling self conscious if their ankles are covered. This demonstration of elongated proportions indicates that Browne is trying to evolve beyond the grey flannel suits that are his claim to fame.

Backstage shot demonstrating the mix of patterns. Chunky ski lodge knits side by side with houndstooth tailoring. Shot by Shawn Brackbill for Dazed Digital.

Under the respected cloak of DazedDigital, this excited fanboy was fortunate enough to grab a few words with Thom Browne after the show. I have to confess that I was pretty darn nervous and more than a touch intimated by Browne's perfect attire but despite my dry throat and sweaty palms I still managed to ask him a few questions about the show. The full interview can be read over on Dazed but I'd like to share one interesting remark with you here. Browne is a designer who frequently looks to sportswear for inspiration and this show alone revealed influences of Collegiate favourite including rugby, fencing and football. I asked him about the importance of sportswear to his line and whether or not his collaborations with Moncler have enhanced it. He responded with the following: "Well, I've always used sports as an influence. The Moncler collaboration has certainly enhanced it but as a designer I've always been interested in sportswear. Sports for guys is a great starting point because even if you do something quite crazy it can still be understood." A wonderful example of this in this show were the long dresses with elaborate zips decorated in Browne's signature flag of red, white and blue at the back of the dress. This demonstrated as much of a nod to the ferocious sport of fencing as it did to an experiment in to femininity. Many designers are inspired by sportswear but few designers dabble within in with such a strong sense of irreverant. As I said above, Browne managed to plant a wry smile on my open jawed mouth and certainly did not dissapoint with his vision for AW10.

Two of my favourite examples of Browne playing with proportions.

NYFW: PETROU/MAN AW10

PETROU\MAN Aw10

The launch of PETROU\MAN last season deservedly received a fair bit of blog love and we too were excited to see the Cypriot designer turn his hand to menswear for the very first time. For his sophomore menswear collection Nicholas Petrou has stripped away the bodyskins to reveal a texture rich collection. Petrou was inspired by the lives of nomads and applied their travels to his signature mix of sportswear with relaxed tailoring to great effect. We too can be nomads at times or at least it feels like we are when we are travelling so much and Petrou offers an refreshing antidote with this collection.

A rich texture achieved through hand dyed prints and combinations of fabrics.

I was fortunate enough to visit his presentation at the Drive In Studios and was therefore able to witness first hand the designer's skill in creating a rich, unusual texture achieved through his combination of fabrics and prints. It also allowed opportunity to marvel at the intricate, hand finish detailing including hand dyed tartan suits and embroidered shirts and jackets celebrating the nomads much used tool; the humble safety pin.

A close up shot demonstrating the mix of sportswear with relaxed tailoring and hand finish details.

There is a terrific sense of texture which is achieved by the layering of different fabrics and prints. There is suede mixed with leather, wool jersey with shearling, microfibre with nylon to name just a few. The prints are mostly hand dyed, for example the tartan jackets and trousers, there is a silver jacket which was in fact black but we hand painted it silver.

Hand dyed prints and wire embellished boots.

Robbie Spencer styled the show and once again demonstrated that he is one of the most exciting menswear stylists working today. Over the last few days I have been fortunate enough to see quite a few shows and presentations and this ranks as one of the strongest. Every facet of the presentation made perfect sense and the pieces were layered in such a way that every time I inspected a look I discovered a new detail.

Petrou's relaxed tailoring mixed with active sportswear.

Below Cole Mohr wears a jacket which took my breath away the moment my eyes focused upon it. Petrou embellished the jacket with over seven thousand safety pins and it took over two weeks to create. The effects of hand finish detailing is something that might have been forgotten in so much menswear design but this collection by Petrou/MAN is a welcome reminder of its beauty.

Cole Mohr wearing the statement jacket.

NYFW: Patrik Ervell AW10

Patrik Ervell's AW10 ethereal presentation at Milk Studios saw an unlikely union of fabrics in outerwear.

After falling head over heels for Patrik Ervell's fabric experimentation with the effects of rusting and oxidisation on his shirts and jackets for SS10, I was desperate to see what he had in store for AW10. With Ervell there is always a sense of clean cut minimalism showcased in his simple lines and impeccably sharp tailoring but here he fused his signature with an unexpected mix of fabrics. We expect a slim-fitting suit aesthetic and a club-collar shirt from Ervell but commentators often overlook his fascination with experimentation and fabric development. There is an unlikely but ultimately happy union of traditional tailoring fabrics of tweed, wool and twill blending harmoniously with the fetish, wipe clean fabrics of latex rubber and transparent vinyl.

The raincoats are a great example of a reimagined classic, as are the duffel coats in transparent vinyl. Backstage shot by Shawn Brackbill for Dazed Digital.

"For me, the most interesting place in menswear, the place where you can really start to experiment and make it more dramatic, maybe a little romantic is in outerwear. Menswear can be tricky in that way but there is room within outerwear to explore a kind of strangeness but ultimately men can still actually wear it. For example, With the latex rubber raincoats, they are entirely functional as a rain coat, they don't have seams and instead are bonded rubber, they completely waterproof. At the same time as being functional they are really quite a bizarre garment because the material is so strange." Patrik Ervell in my interview with the designer for Dazed Digital.

Ervell believes that it is in within the realm of outerwear where designers can really push menswear forward and here, the modified Duffel coats in transparent vinyl and the handmade latex rubber raincoats undoubtedly shoved the discipline forward. The raincoats are a great example of a reimagined classic, as are the duffel coats in transparent vinyl. Ervell's choice of fabrics ultimately transforms something which is usually so familiar in to something quite alien.

Despite pushing menswear to its limits with much of the outerwear, the collection was much more than just a showcase of wipe clean jackets. Set to the frantic, looped music of American minimalist composer Terry Riley, Ervell served a beautiful collection which fused his signature of combining minimalism and exquisite tailoring with his penchant for sportswear.

Ervell may have decided to present his AW10 collection but this was anything but a cocktail party. The looped Terry Riley score combined with a set design full of came together to create a moody yet strangely ethereal and intense viewing experience. I was fortunate enough to grab a few words with Ervell after the show (for an interview piece for Dazed Digital) and the designer confessed that his choice of presentation format was much more stressful than he imagined and that the Riley score left a few of the models a little grated...

Minimal prep wear in movement. Presentation shot by by Shawn Brackbill for Dazed Digital.

I have to confess that I too found the viewing experience to be a little too much after watching the presentation for the full hour but in spite of my racing heart and foggy head, I still can't stop thinking about the below look and it offers a fitting conclusion to this best because it represents the collection as a whole perfectly. I love how Ervell has teamed the all too familiar well cut blazer in black wool twill, with his staple ivory button down club collar Oxford shirt and transformed them both with the simple addition of the scarf in latex rubber. The familiar can become alien with a simple yet unusual addition.

Standard blazer in black wool twill, ivory button down Oxford and scarf in latex rubber.

Dunhill's moment in New York

Dunhill's temporary home from home in New York.

It might only be my birthday today but I had an early present when I visited Dunhill's temporary installation space in Manhattan's Meatpacking District and was able to marvel at and inspect (unfortunately, I was unable to take anything home!) Kim Jones' Aw10 collection for the British luxury brand. The spirit of Dunhill's flagship space, Bourdon House has been transported to the heart of New York. Laser-cut, powder-coated aluminium panels suspended over a black rubber floor combined with a life sized projection of the Bourdon House exterior and its Mayfair surroundings create an abstract spirit of the brands heart and soul, an ethereal version for people to experience.

Susie wandering around the gardens of Bourdon House in the heart of New York with the help of the life sized projector.

For those of you unfamiliar with Bourdon House, it is the ultimate in masculine luxury and retail lifestyle. Formerly the London residence of the Duke of Westminster, it reflects Alfred’s own legacy as a curator of the very finest, offering not only superlative product but the ultimate in services and experience too. This installation, realised by Campaign Design in London, has created a Bourdon House on tour. A travelling lounge, made up of a series of elements which reinforce the origins of the brand and brings back the message of the modern, sophisticated travelling man, with beautiful bespoke display elements that can be packed for the journey.

The installation houses thirty pieces from Aw10 alongside key pieces from previous seasons and inspirational archive pieces.

Dunhill's Aw10 collection was once again a fusion of heritage with modern day luxury. As with SS10, Jones picked out key inspirations from Dunhill's illustrious past and repackaged them for the new era of luxury. As I walked through the installation, it confirmed what I have previously said about Jones, he obviously takes great delight in investigating the brands archives before adding his own innovation to create the Dunhill of today. The heritage of Dunhill is so broad and so darn British, from its beginnings with the birth of the car to creating luxury accessories for motorcycling, aviation and the oh-so-fashionable smokers in the Roaring Twenties. For AW10, the central inspiration is the journey of Clement Court and his role in expanding the Dunhill empire.

Dunhill's trademark Maki-e pen using the lacquer tree of Japan and Stingray covered boxes.

AW10 was inspired by a journal we found of Clement Court, who as an ambassador for Dunhill traveled to Kyoto on the Trans-Siberian Express in the 1920s. Court wanted to see firsthand how Namiki pens were made. The result was Dunhill's trademark Maki-e pen using the lacquer tree of Japan. In addition to showcasing the AW10 collection, the installation presents a few key pieces from the last few seasons, alongside the archive pieces which inspired them. Fortunately, my favourite accessories from the Radical Englishman Abroad collection for SS10. The polished flint boxes and sunglasses have a wonderful natural pattern and ever since I saw them on the catwalk, I've longed to inspect them in real life. The flint comes from the South Downs and after being polished is dressed up in handmade leather straps which were made in Alfred Dunhill's workshop in Walthamstow, East London.

The polished flint accessories alongside luggage inspired by 1930s air travel.

The AW10 collection itself is full of very British looking suits mixed with lots of cashmere knits and heavy wool outerwear. It has been inspired by an entrepreneurial, passionate travelling English gentleman who demonstrated exceedingly good taste levels in everything he did and Jones' interpretation is undoubtedly fit for the modern day Clement Court.

The Dunhill logo is exactly as it used to be however Jones decided to frame it with oak leaves surrounding it.

For a brand with such strong roots, any steering by Jones has been to emphasise them – those being the characteristics of classicism and understatement but his challenge was to present these with a wholly modern personality too which he has surely done with this collection. This modern personality was made all the more obvious by the small details that often go unoticed on the catwalk.

I love the idea of maps as pocket squares. Actually, one of my favourite pocket squares is a map of Tokyo handkerchief from Muji.

The installation, like the label itself reveals tradition through a twenty first century lens. Under the exciting stewardship of Kim Jones the sartorial spirit of Alfred Dunhill certainly lives on and with the help of this installation, his influence has spread to New York. The space closes on the 18th, if you are in the city from now until then, I implore you to visit Dunhill's temporary home from home.

Hiking boots that non ramblers like myself truly covet.

NYFW: Tim Hamilton Redux AW10

Tim Hamilton applying the finishing touches to the models of his Aw10 Redux collection.

Very few American designers excite me but as I made my way to Milk Studios last night I was eager to see Tim Hamilton's Redux presentation. Since launching his eponymous collection in AW06, Hamilton has mastered both rugged and polished styles, moved with surprising ease between American and European influenced collections and has managed to create inspired yet wearable clothing for men. His interpretations of classic tailoring and sportswear and an adventurous design approach to colour and fabric have arguably made Hamilton the most exciting menswear to come out of New York for some time. Hamilton's secondary line Redux was first launched in 2007 and was initially based around knitwear and outerwear pieces only. For AW10 it has evolved and gets an official nod with a full presentation during the official schedule. The collection was a compilation of his greatest hits which were seamlessly mixed with functional pieces in interesting fabric combinations.

Hamilton's glowing classics.

The presentation showcased comfortable street wear which was anything but dull. As I raided the bar (what can I say, I was thirsty!), Susie was fortunate enough to grab a few words with Tim for an interview piece for DD and the pair discussed how this secondary line allows greater creative freedom to push the mainline forward. For the designer himself the collection contains "foundation pieces but I've always layered on more conceptual pieces that works with it. So there's this street, New York-meet-London vibe that is layered on top of those foundations." The cocktail of foundation pieces and conceptual ones was no more apparent than in the below, tar covered and texture rich boots. Do I dare experiment in a spot of DIY with a pair of combat boots and a bucket of tar for Aw10? I just might...

Combat boots like I've never seen them before.

NYFW: 3.1 Phillip Lim AW10

Lim's second menswear collection brings the wild in to the city. Artwork by Graham Hamilton and Yeonsook Kim

Due to the snow causing a little mischief, I am playing a little catch up on the ice ridden pavements of New York. One of the shows that I unfortunately missed was 3.1 Phillip Lim but Susie's enthusiasm for his accessories and giant plaid suits resulted in the show topping my 'to do' list. Lim's sophomore menswear collection brings the wild into the city and reconsiders what constitutes adventure. By marrying form with function, Lim's collection is fit for some serious outdoor adventure whilst having a little fun...

Left; The finishing touches being applied to two models. Right; Heather grey zebra hooded poncho, bone classic long fit shirt, coal 'saddle' trousers with side pockets, black multi folio, gauntlet gloves and tall 'lodge' boots. Backstage shots by Mark Reay for Dazed Digital

Everyday is an adventure and the city urban uniforms required for these expeditions even include outerwear with names like 'captains' and 'quest'. There is a great deal of protective and textural elements, animal printed crewnecks, furs adorning cuffs and boots, an abundance of buckles, harnesses and straps all coming together to create Lim's vision of the modern, urban adventurer.

Sometimes the wind on a subway blows just as hard and fierce as the wind in a billowing sail. Sometimes the city is filled with as many wild beasts as a safari so why not dress accordingly. The collection asks 'who say the city pavement isn't rugged terrain?' Given the piles of snow and slippery pavements I'm certainly not that person. I could do with a little more protection out there on the wintry streets of New York and I look on with green eyes at Lim's studded calfsettes, his gauntlet gloves and not least the 'u-kilities' boots. For me, the wild is already in the city and it is time to dress accordingly...

A selection of detail shots. Shot by Don Ashby for GQ.

LFW Preview: Omar Kashoura...Imagi-nation AW10

I have been a fan of Omar Kashoura from the very moment I stumbled across one of his deconstructed cardigans hanging on the rails of The Shop at Bluebird two years ago and we've both been following his career ever since. This time last year, following his graduation from a Masters at Central Saint Martins, the London based designer unleashed his first full collection Man Boy. The collection forced us all to take notice and declare that he is one Britain's leading menswear design talents. However, as much as we wanted to see him showcase his designs at LFW he has not been given the chance...until now. I met up with the designer at his studio last weekend to have a sneak preview of his AW10 collection and he informed me of the good news that he will be presenting the complete collection during Menswear Day. I just cannot wait to see the designer take his deserved place amongst the impressive array of talent presenting their designs on 24th February. As I'm a little over excited by the mouth watering lineup and the news of Kashoura's inclusion, here is a sneak peek at his collection...

Omar Kashoura's inspiration board. Who Is Omar Kashoura?

Over the last few seasons Kashoura has established a signature look, the modern gentleman showcasing sharp tailoring, unique finishing and not least trademark detailing including looped shirt collars and jacket cuff fastenings. He has a long term focus on development and collaboration for example with the likes of accessory designer Jarah Stoop. His designs are most definitely masculine with pieces which are both fun and beautifully crafted. As proud as he was of his previous collections, he felt that they did not entirely represent him. So for AW10 he wanted to create a collection that truly represented who he was as a person and as a designer.

Part of the design process involved him creating his own flag of fashion and saw him look at life in in bustling London. The sights, sounds, architecture and demands of the city combine and influence his desire to create a twenty four hour wardrobe for the modern man.

Here Kashoura revisits the idea of outfitting the modern gentleman and has created a collection that adapts with the demanding lifestyle of the wearer. For example, trousers can be adjusted with ease for the morning bike ride commute and wear just as well for a post work drink or two. Similarly, the Jarah Stoop collaboration echoes the need to transform, with satchels becoming totes according to the needs of the wearer.

Kashoura's collections never fail to showcase his tailoring talent, his ability at sourcing the very best technology rich fabrics and his attention to detail. One of the real highlights showcases all of these. The above tailored jacket is padded and the cloth has a wonderful metal effect which glistens under any light. If the jacket was not special enough it transforms itself from an office friendly piece of tailoring in to evening attire with the addition of a zipped lapel...

In terms of the colour palette, Kashoura was inspired by the hues of the city but also those of Antarctica. Shades of blue, white, grey and beige combine to create a season friendly spectrum but Kashoura's attention to detail and finish ensure there is plenty of interest and talking points. I loved the print used in the below shirt and was pleased to see it used in a few of the accessories including the Jarah Stoop weekend bags and belts.

A closer look at the print. It adds a welcome touch of softness to the collection.

I have to confess that as I wandered around the studio my mind began making a shopping list of all the pieces that I needed for AW10. One of the first items on that list was the below structured knit. For me, the piece wonderful encapsulates the influence of Antarctica and just as the ice shifts and changes shape, so does this knit with the addition of elastic. The effect of the combination of wool and elastic is most unusual and I'd love to experiment with its shape and form. Once again, it is an instance of my wants and desires making an early declaration of intent, debit card you have been warned.

Even the knits form on the hanger is unusual...it is begging to played with!

This sneak peek has only whet my appetite to see the collection in its entirety and I'm so pleased that this opportunity will come during LFW, few designers deserve their place in the line up more than him. Something tells me that 2010 is going to be his year...

Omar's attention to fabric choice, detailing and finish are second to none. Roll on Menswear Day