Earlier this week Susie declared to me that when she hits a certain age she will embrace the dark colour palette and relaxed fit world of Yohji Yamamoto for her personal uniform which made me question who I would turn to as I matured. During an afternoon of procrastination I found myself discussing this very subject with John. He declared he would 'love to be a Yohji and Issey man with a sprinkling of Comme' for good measure and this certainly struck a chord with my me. John also recalled his pleasant surprise at viewing images of CdG x H&M collaboration launch and noticing a significant number of middle aged plus enthusiasts thumbing the rails. We both found this loyalty to certain brands admirable. It soon became apparent that the names we were discussing were extremely Japanese focused, including Visvim, Porter Yoshida as well as those already mentioned above). For us Japanese old man style is hard to beat and this is just one of the reasons we love Oily Boy so much. The gentlemen contained in the pages are of a certain generation who have learned how to wear their clothes not let their clothes wear them.
Wednesday, 29 April 2009
Growing in to a personal uniform
Earlier this week Susie declared to me that when she hits a certain age she will embrace the dark colour palette and relaxed fit world of Yohji Yamamoto for her personal uniform which made me question who I would turn to as I matured. During an afternoon of procrastination I found myself discussing this very subject with John. He declared he would 'love to be a Yohji and Issey man with a sprinkling of Comme' for good measure and this certainly struck a chord with my me. John also recalled his pleasant surprise at viewing images of CdG x H&M collaboration launch and noticing a significant number of middle aged plus enthusiasts thumbing the rails. We both found this loyalty to certain brands admirable. It soon became apparent that the names we were discussing were extremely Japanese focused, including Visvim, Porter Yoshida as well as those already mentioned above). For us Japanese old man style is hard to beat and this is just one of the reasons we love Oily Boy so much. The gentlemen contained in the pages are of a certain generation who have learned how to wear their clothes not let their clothes wear them.
Tuesday, 28 April 2009
McQueen Rethinks Runway
"You know it’s hard enough doing this job, I don’t have to live it as well. I’d rather sit at home watching ‘Coronation Street.’“
As long as McQueen manages to peel himself off the sofa from season to season, he will continue to push fashion forward in whatever way he chooses. How would you like to see McQueen show his next collection? I have visions of McQueen directing an episode of the nation's favourite soaps..just imagine Jack Duckworth in McQueen tailoring...or maybe not!
Paper Cut Tailoring
Of course the exhibition had a heavy womenswear slant but their were still the odd nugget of menswear to savour. Namely James Rosenquist's famous paper suit for Hugo Boss that he wore to Pop art openings and parties in the 1960s. Rosenquist in his paper suit transcended mere fashion and became the perfect embodiment of the era.
Recently remade of Tyvek(r) (a nonwoven fabric made from spun-bonded olefin) brings Rosenquist's paper suit into the new millenium. This extraordinary garment represents the increasingly explicit link between art and fashion and marries the most enduring form of menswear with the "throwaway" nature of paper.
Monday, 27 April 2009
Finding Bruno in Antwerp
Elsewhere, there were a number of interesting pieces at the Tim van Steenbergen sale but I was pleased with my purchases and showed a surprising amount of self control. He is a designer I will be investigating further given he is quite established in Belgium. I will certainly plan in a return trip next time for the next round of stock sales, hopefully next year the pound will be a little stronger...
A fitting setting for your life story
Saturday, 25 April 2009
Hyères we go with menswear talent
If anyone is going to break the menswear, my money is split between Germany’s Alice Knackfuss and Paris based Thomas Trautwein. Kanckfuss' romantic tailoring takes its poetic inspiration further than most to with Rilke quotes sewn into armbands. Trautwein's collection titled “Bandit Couture” is my particular favourite because I just love his dark, detailed tailoring (for more information on the designer and the collection visit ASVOF) but this is based upon first impressions and all could change as the competition unravels. I am green with envy at all those lucky folk fortunate enough to play their part in the South of France...especially as rain is forecast in London tomorrow but I am so pleased that there is so much menswear on offer!
Wednesday, 22 April 2009
Picture Postcard: The readers
Tuesday, 21 April 2009
The Archive Unveiled
Raf Simons provides the first archive installment with pieces spanning from his initial mid 90s collections to the present day. Simons is undeniably one of the great innovators of contemporary men's fashion so what a great place to start! His clothes, typically characterised by a sharp and linear silhouette, have combined traditional tailoring with rebel youth outfits from all ages and have ultimately redefined menswear along the way. The archive showcases key pieces throughout and provides a real insight into what the online store feels were his most important collections. These garments are from a personal collection (could we be more jealous?), as time goes on the product matures in style and tastes and preference change all of which is shown in this feature.
If you are wondering why the eyes of the model are covered it is because oki-ni wanted this section to focus entirely on the product and not an identity. There are sixty plus pieces featured but they will expand on this - as there is plenty more from where this came from. Just imagine owning such a collection? We can but dream.
In Deep Water with Makin Jan Ma
Monday, 20 April 2009
Resistance is futile to the wonders of Japan
Sunday, 19 April 2009
A surprising supplement to a Sunday morning
The feature that I just had to mention was 'A life in the wardrobe of...Chris Moore' because it is the type of thing I lap up but unfortunately it is hard to come by. The final page of the supplement is dedicated to a look inside the wardrobe of Chris Moore, a man widely known as 'the King of the Catwalk.' Moore has been photographing fashion shows for over forty years and runs his own agency, catwalking.com (providing much of the blogging fraternity with a look at the action before anyone else) but what does he choose to wear? The feature sees the renowned photographer pick out five of his favourite pieces including, an Aran jumper, a Comme des Garcons jacket, a Christian Dior suit (Hedi era), a Margaret Howell jacket and jeans by Helmut Lang. Moore introduces each item and provides a little background on how he came across each item as well as a little insight in to how the piece fits in to his everyday style. He was fortunate enough to blag himself the Margaret Howell jacket whilst shooting the collection and after they gave it to him he has rarely taken it off. "And they gave it to me. That was a year ago and I've worn it almost every day. It's terribly important that I try not to be overdressed or flamboyant because I feel that a photographer in my type of work should be invisible." As you can tell from our very own 'Style Stalking' feature we love to hear about an individuals everyday style but the 'A life in the wardrobe of...' piece provides a level of personal analysis and insight that I'd love to replicate on the blog...so this feature might well be repackaged in the coming weeks. The art of wardrobe building is an evolving process and it would be great to sneak a peek at a number of individuals' sartorial journey.
Friday, 17 April 2009
A new bespectacled era
Thursday, 16 April 2009
Playing in puddles
A guilty pleasure...Teen Vogue
Wednesday, 15 April 2009
Howards End: Omar Kashoura AW09
For Autumn Winter 09 Kashoura drew inspiration from the E. M Forster novel Howards End. The novel tells a story of class struggle at the turn of the 20th century by exploring the relationships of three families representing the different gradations of Edwardian middle England. Kashoura takes this inspiration and adds his trademark detailing whilst infusing shirt collars, jacket trims and trouser pleats, resulting in a collection that offers simplistic silhouettes which create a bold impact.
I was fortunate enough to man handle the collection during a press viewing and the detailing and combination of fabrics left me purring. I've been impatiently waiting for either look book or show images to share with you but now the wait is over and you can all enjoy the collection. Fine silk jersey pieces are offered up in deep shades of chocolate and blueberry. Thick cotton knits come in the form of a rich brown day jacket and natural amice scarf with pull and toggle features.
Tuesday, 14 April 2009
Does menswear provide the first green shoot of the economic recovery?
If I'm honest I frequently buy more than I actually need but at the time I convince myself that a need exists but so many chaps I know practice the described generalisation. As a result, of this understanding, Ossendrijver doesn't strive to design whole looks, but rather he designs pieces. For him it is not necessarily about a total outfit but the individual parts that make up a wardrobe. This is a healthy way to look at men's fashion in any economic climate but certainly when things get a little tight. The key is to look at collections for key pieces which will truly add something new, something different to your wardrobe and then enjoy them.
On Song in Seoul
There really is life beyond the standard fashion week circus and it is so much fun uncovering talent from more far-flung Fashion Weeks. As the grey skies and drizzle played havoc with my Easter plans (I just wanted to eat, drink and be merry in pub gardens and parks in a relatively deserted London) I was comforted by the alpacas, cashmeres and leather which was folded and draped in to quite wonderful sculptured jackets, and wide, billowing trousers.
These are silhouettes that you just don't see in street style and it is a real shame. The dramatic effect of the trouser is what really made me fall for this collection and it is something I would love to integrate in to one or two looks. This is not as simple as it sounds and will require a trip to a tailor as the High Street fails to deliver on volume. Although a little controversial, I personally loved Kris Van Assche's samurai trousers showcased in his Dior Aw08 collection and expected to see a few more affordable options trickle down to the High Street but I'm still waiting. Of course they are a little difficult to wear but as Van Assche declared himself "at the beginning, everybody thought that stretch black jeans were hard to wear." I for one long to experiment with volume and play with a few different silhouettes this season and it would be nice to see something other than skinny jeans.
Sunday, 12 April 2009
Unlikely Style Icon: Alexander Rodchenko
Saturday, 11 April 2009
Behind the scenes... Massey's Knitwear Inspiration
After inspecting the knitwear pieces up close (at the studio and at the exhibition) Steve was left gushing at the cable knit pattern so it is so nice to hear about the research and development of some of the highlights of her aw09 collection. By taking elements from pieces she has seen and found whilst combining them with her vision for menswear she create something new. We would certainly love to hear from more designers, not just on what inspired them but how their inspirations evolved in to the finished collection.
Thursday, 9 April 2009
Style Stalking... The Sunday Best (Part Two)
Day Five:
I really wanted to get more shawl-neck sweaters this year, but this is still the only one I own.
Day Six:
More casual Friday-ness wearing my current favourite piece of clothing - a boiled wool shirt from BBlessing. The scarf was a mistake.
Day Seven:
What I wore to Clack Clack Empire's last night in business. I'm pretty much moving towards dressing like this all the time.
Day Eight:
This is what I look like around the house - baggier jeans, slippers, and occasionally a bowler. Was feeling the -itis coming on.
_ _ _ _
Whilst most of us struggle in the mornings and chuck on any old thing in the bleary eyed darkness (maybe that is just us?), it is quite clear from our style stalking that Thom has an enviable work style and has a keen eye for quality, interesting staples. So, as well as a week's worth of Thom style, we asked him to offer a few shop recommendations and he more than delivered, featuring his picks from three cities:
VancouverThe Block - Filson, Fillipa K, Coal hats.
350 West Cordova Street, Vancouver
Welcome Home, Eugene Choo - A.P.C., BBlessings, Wesc, Pendleton, Steven Alan - can't afford anything but they often go on sale.
3683 Main Street, Vancouver
Front & Co. - Well-curated consigment.
3772 Main Street (between 21st & 22nd Ave.)Vancouver BCV5V 3N7
Gravity Pope - Carries most brands of shoes you'd want, plus has clothing store next store with Gilded Age and Robert Geller
2205 west 4th ave, Vancouver
Deluxe Junk Co. - Good consignment.
310 Cordova Street, Vancouver
Vancouver Special - Little things for about the house.
3612 Main Street, Vancouver
Jonathan + Olivia - Engineered Garments - only store in Vancouver that carries it.
2570 Main Street, Vancouver
Victoria
Outlooks
534 Yates Street, Victoria
Value Village - This is the best Value Village I've ever been to - must have bought 40 items from here.
1810 Store Street, Victoria
Seattle
Blackbird - Currently my favourite store anywhere.
5410 22nd Ave, Seattle
Ian
1919 2nd Ave., Seattle
Five Doors Up
4309 university way, Seattle
Buffalo Exchange
4530 University Way NE
Wednesday, 8 April 2009
Picture Postcard: Inspiring Spring Style
These two striking and highly achievable looks are perfect for this nice weather we have been enjoying (please, let it continue...I'm getting used to the sunshine). The look on the left is described as Retro Elegance and it has left the biggest impression on me; everything from the lightweight summer hat to the casually rolled up trousers to the butter soft lace ups are absolutely spot on. The second look is termed College Preppy and I find the mix of fabrics and styles to be really interesting. This look is aimed at a braver man than some but the change in the season has given me a push to try something a little different. Fingers crossed that the weather holds and we can enjoy the perfect Spring weekend (and the odd, perfect shopping trip)...who knows we might just have to take a little trip to Harvey Nichols (I don't think I've ever actually been inside any of their stores).
Looking forward to your visit!
Steve