Back in October we featured a debut capsule collection by a current Central Saint Martin’s BA Menswear Fashion Design student, Nicomede Talavera. We were as impressed with his business nous as we were were by his obvious design talent and could not resist learning more about this exciting prospect. He might be on his placement year (initially in London and next to New York) but we have kept in close contact with him and are pleased to reveal his sophomore collection. For Aw10, Talavera has toyed with the idea of a symbiotic relationship between the Gentleman and the Neanderthal....
For the past six months Talavera has been interning at BLAAK but we caught up with the CSM student as he packed his bags for New York for further interning opportunities. We asked him to talk us through the collection in his own words. "The collection came from my initial thoughts on fusing elements of the neanderthal and the gentleman. I was really inspired by the make do and mend attitude of the neanderthal; the incredible textures, layers, animal prints, bones, twigs and experimentation with materials in addition to their overal primitive charm. This combined with my interest in the sportswear aesthetic and the slickness and austerity of the gentleman and richness of fabrics; velvet, wools and silk jersey. I also looked to Ian Carr-Harris’installation 137 Tecumseth to provide the overall mood and tone of the collection."
Throughout the collection these two examples of man interplay and form a relationship wherein each is dependent upon and receives reinforcement from the other. The Neanderthal brought a reactionary and primitive charm resulting in craftsmanship and a wealth of textures, layers and materials as well as an emphasis on animal prints. Whereas the Gentleman’s traditional influence ensures the silhouette maintains classic shapes, such as re-takes on long johns in PVC and longer length shirts and cardigans. A loose and relaxed silhouette runs throughout the collection; extended shirts, tops and cardigans hang just above the knee layered over dropped crotch and cropped trousers. Ian Carr-Harris’ installation 137 Tecumseth provides the colour palette and sets the mood of the collection; especially the metallic, reflective and tonal features.
Contrasting textures are paramount with PVC, crushed velvet, leather, wools, tyvek, hair and nylon alongside each other in shorts, trousers and shirts. Finished with ceremonial skull and ethnic beading on several pieces. Knitwear takes on a harder edge with leather, neoprene, denim and mohair yarns in a black chunky cardigan, jade top with sleeve details, a recycled denim striped scarf, grey leather shopper bag and oversized black and white mohair jumper. As with his debut collection, accessories play an important role in combining the two influences. The Neanderthal’s sense of rituals and lifestyle influences eerie animal bones, shells, twigs and knitted leather then combined with velvet and silver hoops on necklaces, bangles, bags and bag charms.
Nicomede Talavera returns for his final year at CSM in September 2010 so we can all expect to see his exciting graduate collection in 2011. I for one, cannot wait to see what this young talent creates next.