Thursday, 2 September 2010

Discovering Bunney in time for LFW

I don't want to alarm any of you but somehow we have stumbled in to September. How on earth did that happen? This means we are only a matter of days away before fashion month engulfs us all. If that was not exciting (daunting) enough we are learning about new additions to the LFW menswear lineup each and every day. The latest comes from the Touba Distribution curated Showroom Next Door who have now released their full list of participating brands. You should recall that last season, the space became my dream walk-in wardrobe the moment I stepped through the doors of 16 Hanover Square, with a few new additions to the lineup it looks as though this season will have the same affect. I have to warn you in advance that the list causes heavy breathy and heart palpitations. Casely-Hayford, Sable Clutch, Mr Hare, Armando Cabral, H by Harris, Hannah Martin, Bruno Chaussignand and Bunney. To further enhance your heart beat, I'd like acquaint you all a little closer with Bunney's jewellery line...

While making clothes for quite some time in various design positions at Gimme 5, Bunney always found himself attracted to jewellery. For him however, it was far too one-dimensional and rigid. Ultimately, Bunney was drawn to the idea of coming up with something everybody or anybody could wear. So, for the last few seasons, Bunney has been quietly navigating an elegant and refined men's jewellery offering with his range of silver pyramid stud pins sold in sets of three at Dover Street Market, Tokyo’s F.I.L.and Colette in Paris. Bunney says the concept focuses on giving freedom to the wearer “you wear them how you want, on a jacket or a shirt, together or separately”. To celebrate his inclusion at LFW, we decided to sit down with the designer to learn more about the processes involved in his creations and to learn what else he has in store.

SS: How has the line evolved since its inception?
Andrew Bunney: I started with one item in the beginning - a large size silver pyramid stud which comes in a set of three. I've gradually added more sizes and materials, and I will be showing a small range for the first time later this month. I wanted to try and make something quite unisex, and coming from the UK I always like the way in which people can take things and wear or use them in a way unique to themselves.

SS: Could you talk us through a few of the process involved in the creation of your pieces?
Andrew Bunney: To date, the ideas have been from some of the simple things that we know, and thinking about how to address them using precious materials. So from the idea and my designs, I work with a jeweller to see what the best method of manufacturing will be each time. Some of the items are made employing techniques that are usually used for making a different kind of product, so depending on the item I learn and see a new method of construction.

SS: Made in England is a fundamental facet of the label and I know that you've searched for the craftsmen to help make your designs a reality. How much of a struggle has this been and were you surprised by how tough it was?
Andrew Bunney: I wouldn't be interested in making something in England simply for the sake of it. Certain places or countries excel at different things and I want to make everything as well as possible. I approach 'Made In England' knowing that there is a long history and tradition of producing jewellery in England so I spend a lot of time to find some of the finest workshops.

On a personal level, the manufacturing side is very interesting to me, and I enjoy visiting different workshops around the country to learn what can be made and the possibilities that there are. Because the trade is much, much, smaller than in years gone by, there are always difficulties and some traditions or techniques have disappeared. I'm quite sure that it would be easier to produce things more quickly in other countries, but sometimes it is about establishing relationships too.

S: Could you explain your association with 'Uniform experiment'?
Andrew Bunney: Uniform Experiment is a mens clothing company based in Japan, and for a special release later this year they asked me to produce some gem-stone studs for them. Based on the existing stud styles, the stones are cut into the pyramid shapes, then set by hand in a special silver mount. The sets come as either Onyx + Carnelian (red), Onyx + Topaz (blue), Onyx+ Amethyst (purple).

SS: Finally, where can we find your designs?
Andrew Bunney: To date, Bunney has been selling to DSM, Colette and the F.I.L. stores in Japan and HK (the Visvim own brand shops).

Look book shot taken by Marius W. Hansen. All other previous images shown above shot by Tommy.


The news of Bunney's inclusion at the the Showroom Next Door has pushed us over the edge. Roll on London Fashion Week.


John said...

Now this is my type of jewellery.

thisisnaive said...

I like wearing the studs to close up button-holes on my old dress shirts or French linen things that have lost their buttons.

Duck said...

I am clearly going to have to hop down to DSM to take a look at these... I'm hoping they're within the remainder of my LFW-wardrobe price-range because I can already think of 101 uses for them.

Thanks for the post.


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