Style Salvage Speaks to... Fashion156's Guy Hipwell

We thought that it would be impossible to come across a person who puts more blood, sweat, tears and passion into the obsession that is fashion than Susie but Fashion156's founding editor and creative director, Guy Hipwell, might just be that person. For us, there is nothing online half as good as the editorials showcased (every fifteen days or so) in this online magazine. Guy always showcases some of the best emerging design talent alongside more established names. We are regularly amazed at the quality of Fashion156, so we were thrilled to ask the man behind it all a few questions. Alongside the interview we just could not resist including a selection of shots from the latest issue which previews AW09 looks from some of LFW's hottest design talent...

Complete look by Katie Eary, from AW09/10 collection and shoes by bstore

Style Salvage: Describe Fashion156 in your own words...

Guy: I used to work as a stylist and one day I was on a very, very well paid job, fluffing up wedding dresses. I thought "Oh WTF, this pays the rent, but where is my life taking me!" Editorials never pay and although I still styled one or two a month, I had all these ideas I wanted to shoot and no outlet for them, so the idea of fashion156.com came about - a platform to promote brand new graduates/designers/writers/bloggers/photographers; and established designers (as I also love some of the super brands) and the old school (me!). I see fashion156.com as slightly directional but not trying to be sooooo cool it hurts.

SS: We're constantly impressed by the high standards throughout Fashion156, especially the editorials... How do you do it with such a small team?
Guy: Basically I work 16 - 20 hr days, 7 days a week. Fashion156 is a one-man-band with support from some amazing interns and contributors, and for me unless my editorials have the similar feel of what you see in the really high-end magazines then I would have failed. So that is what drives me and gives me a benchmark to try to aspire to.

SS: We are mere days away from LFW, where we will see the first dedicated afternoon to menswear. These are certainly exciting times for menswear in the capital but which shows are you most excited about seeing?
Guy: I have seen some of the new collections are there are going to be some surprises (watch Jaiden rVa James go from shirting to bondage for example!) The whole menswear showcase sums up what inspires me and makes London so great. I want to see all the shows as they include some of my all time favourite designers such as Carolyn Massey, Tim Soar, James Long and newer names such as Katie Eary and Sibling.

Shirt by Martine Rose, from AW09/10 collection

SS: We love how Fasion156 showcases emerging design talent alongside more established labels- who are your favourite recent finds?

Guy: Just shot some amazing suits by Rohan Kale, a recent LCF graduate; love what Lou Dalton has produced for SS09; and blown away by Sibling and their 3D sweaters.

SS: What is your favourite fashion moment from your career so far?
Guy: Starting up fashion156.com has been one manic ride, but I have gained so much experience from it. Like a hyper-active child fashion156 demands all my attention; sometimes I love it and other times I want to drop it from a 20 storey building!

SS: If you could go back in time and experience any fashion moment, what would it be?
Guy: Either the 60s - I would wear amazing narrow suits every single day; or to be a working in fashion in New York when Studio 54 opened.

Complete look by Carolyn Massey, from AW09/10 collection

SS: What (if any) films/books/TV-programs/moments and stories currently inspire your work at the moment?

Guy: I love watching movies, they inspire me the most. Seeing all the vibrant colours and sun weathered fabrics in Slum Dog Millionaire for example will shape one of our summer issues. Although we will probably only be able to afford to fly to Spain not India! I also watch millions of short clips on YouTube for research.

SS: Have you got any recommendation that you'd like to share with our readers? (shops, hairdressers, designers, websites, bars)
Guy: Start in Hoxton have some great own-label suits, just purchased a beautiful 3-piece from them. Buy direct: email new emerging designers, it is amazing to wear their collections before everyone else gets to hear about them, and they often offer bespoke to order, which is much cheaper than in the shops. I love to hold my meetings in Candid Cafe in Angel, N1 . It is smashed up and a little dilapidated but serves great "cheap and cheerful" food and drinks.

SS: We have been writing about men's style on the blog for eighteen months or so now and in that time we have seen a number of other men's style blogs come and go... do you read blogs and, if so, which are on your blogroll?
Guy: I scan literally hundreds of blogs per week, talking scroll down and stop when an image grabs me. All the street/club/industry/the glossy magazine blogs. Plus I have to keep on top of it with womenswear too.Basically I try to see them all! Hint, Coolhunter, Dazed, The Business of Fashion and of course Style Salvage! And no, I am not just saying it, as this is how I found out about Steve and asked him to write for fashion156!

SS: If you could style anyone, who would it be and what would you put them in?
Guy: Older men. My best shoot ever was a amazing group of domino playing black guys (in their late 50s, 60s & 70s) we discovered in a pub in Brixton. I styled them in Savile Row tailoring with lots of cufflinks, signet rings, chains and hats and we shot the story in black and white! All they asked for was free beer all day long, but by the end we nearly had a riot on our hands as they wanted to keep all the sharp suits I had loaned and dressed them in. I am thinking of recreating this story for fashion156.

Hat by J Smith Esquire, from AW09/10 collection

SS: What is inspiring your own personal style at the moment? Do you have any style icons (long or short term)?
Guy: I normally dress like a tramp who sleeps on a park bench and I do not have time to care. When I need to make an effort, I like to wear three-piece suits or just a simple pair of jeans and a jacket. I am in my 40s now, and even men can look like mutton dressed as lamb, so I try to keep that in mind! My style icons are the Kray Twins - without the violence - and anyone (City gent to teenager in his first suit) who looks awesome in a well cut tailoring.

SS: What item of clothing (if any) do you wish men wore more?
Guy: I am very envious that women get access to so many amazing shoes. I wish men had more choice when it comes to footwear. I need new shoes desperately and have been (half) looking for two months, most are boring, over priced or just look cheap, and some make you feet look the size of a child's. If there was more choice I would love to see more men wearing smarter footwear.

SS: What would you like to achieve in 2009 and beyond?
Guy: To launch our video channel, get a full time assistant and then publish the fashion156 book. A few more hours sleep would also be great, as I need to remind myself it is fashion not a cure for cancer I am obsessing over.

SS: Finally, what's the one question you wish people asked you but you've never had the opportunity to answer? (and what is the answer)
Guy: Question: We would like to advertise on fashion156, is it possible? Answer: Yes, it is possible!

A look inside my wardrobe

Organised chaos...the keep pile of tshirts, jumpers and trousers.

Last week EJ came to town to celebrate my birthday but whilst lavishing gifts on me she also used this time to carry out her threat of sorting through my wardrobe. Every item of clothing I own (we saved shoes for another time) was removed from my drawers, wardrobe, the back of chairs and even the laundry basket and we sorted through them. One by one we judged each item and categorised them into three piles...keep, charity shop, mend. I had been dreading this task because I feared that I would not be ruthless enough to sort through my clothing in this manner but I surprised myself. In fact I actually enjoyed myself. I could post in great length about the experience but rather than bore you with it all in one post, I will break it up to provide little snippets...after all, building a wardrobe is an art and I have only just started on my canvass.

The art of wardrobe building is not fast or haphazard; instead it is developed and nurtured over time. A mans wardrobe may rather eloquently tell the story of his life less ordinary. E. Tautz

As well as organising and demonstrating our sartorial ruthlessness we also took a colour inventory. The above picture of the inside of my wardrobe brings a certain Death Cab For Cutie song to mind...a lack of colour. When things calm down with my new job and all of this fashion week hoo-ha is behind us, I might even treat you to the odd pie chart or two (I know Thom will appreciate this) but until then I can say that 30% of my wardrobe is grey, 30% is navy/blue, 30% is brown (a surprising revelation for me...do I even wear brown?) and the final 10% is built up of only a few more additional colours. I need to urgently acquaint my wardrobe with the spectrum of colour on offer and as soon as they become friends, I will let you know. In the meantime, how is your wardrobe...is it time for an early Spring clean? If you can't face it alone I'm sure EJ will be more than happy to visit your wardrobe and bring out your own sartorial ruthless streak .

Style Stalking... Buck's Elliot James Sainsbury (Part 1)

What better way to learn about a person's style than to style stalk them for a week? Elliott James Sainsbury is a chap who we first came across on the t'internet back when he was blogging but when we met him in person we just had to style stalk him... We could not think of anyone better to kickstart this new feature. Needless to say, after viewing the first few days of images (beautifully shot by Holly Falconer ) we became green with envy... Elliott, we want to steal your wardrobe! Please sit back and become a voyeur as we are let in to the first four days in his shoes. The rest of the week's outfits with be accompanied by his shop recommendations later this week.

Day one:
Blazer, tie and sneakers- Lanvin. Vintage silk scarf. Sweater- Dior Homme. Jeans- Cheap Monday. Shirt- Hurwundeki. Spectacles- Oliver Peoples. Briefcase- Battersea car boot sale. Trenchcoat on chair- Topman.

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Day two:
Vintage coat, blazer and scarf- The East End Thrift Store. Jeans- Cheap Monday. Shoes- Church's. Top- Uniqlo. Spectacles- SUPER. Briefcase- Battersea car boot sale.

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Day three:
Purple blazer and scarf- The East End Thrift Store. Shirt- Uniqlo. Vintage trousers- charity shop. Socks- Happy Socks. Shoes- Church's. Bow tie- H&M.

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Day four:
White shirt- Miu Miu. Vintage trousers- charity shop. Cape- Carolyn Massey for Topman. Bag- Jil Sander. (Note from Elliot- ack, this pic is really over contemplative! I don't normally do this face at work!)

Sporting Rewind

As most of your eyes are transfixed on the goings on in New York, I will leave the runway commentary (for now - a full catch up will come before the weekend) to the likes of thesundaybest and thefashionisto because I must admit that I am finding it difficult concetrating on the happenings across the Atlantic because I am just to darn excited about next week. here in London. In this spirit, I'd like shout in true Craig David styleee 're-e-wind' and divert your gaze to Georgy Baratashvili, a recent graduate of Central Saint Martins (thanks to the fashion156 blog for bringing him to my attention). Baratashvilli has already including collaborated with Puma and the Jamaican Olympic team (makes me just think of Cool Runnings) and it is clear that his work marries sportswear with a dark romantic aesthetic.

His AW09 collection, inspired by British youth culture, takes the everyday street uniform of hoodies and tracksuits and overlays them with elements from Baratashvili’s dance background to create a tough but much sensual look than we might normally see at a town centre near you. For years, Baratashvili was a professional dancer in his native Russia, so it really is no wonder that movement inspired his collection of soft, draped trousers and tops.

The only trouble is... with intricately draped jersey, layered wool and washed leather in a soft nude and grey palette, I just know that if I did get my hands on any of this collection, I would have to keep it under lock and key away from Susie's thieving hands...

Style Salvage Speaks to... Jaiden rVa James

These are exciting times right now for menswear in London. To celebrate the fact that we are just over a week away from an afternoon dedicated to showcase some of our favourite designers we will be talking to a few of the reasons why we have every right to be excited. First up are Jaiden rVa James, a design duo (Rasharn de Vera Agyemang and Jaiden James) who aim to deliver cutting edge but always wearable designs whilst respecting and explore the male anatomy. Their SS09 collection (a selection if images provided below) saw them celebrate gingham with the colours of the English summer making us dream of an actual summer this year. On February 25th, Jaiden rVa James will take their place alongside Sibling (who will be providing a screening), Katie Eary and Martine Rose and we just cannot wait to see their installation... in the meantime here is our little chat with the guys.

Rasharn de Vera Agyemang and Jaiden James make up Jaiden rVa James

Style Salvage: How would you describe your work?
Jaiden rVa James: Experimental & Exploitative

SS: Tell us a little history about your beginnings and how the partnership evolved...
JrVaJ: We have known each other for a while now, around 4 years as we used to live in the same apartment complex, share mutual friends and had the same interests. Jaiden rVa James developed simply out of love for fashion and as a way of expressing ourselves.

SS: Have you got a set design process? Do you use inspiration boards?
JrVaJ: No we usually develop a story and that story becomes a theme and we kind of work within that theme

Pastels and gingham... a SS09 look showcased in Fashion156

SS: These are exciting times for menswear in London...How does it feel to be part of the first menswear afternoon at LFW?
JrVaJ: We have watched menswear rise in London, not that it has not always been here from Savile Row to John Richmond to Kim Jones etc. Man has really helped alot and we have a huge respect for Gordon, his team and Topman for supporting London's menswear and an even huger admiration for Lulu as I can't even imagine where British- furthermore fashion in general- would be without Fashion East.

SS: What can we expect to see from your aw 09/10 collection?
JrVaJ: Pyschosexuality, hats by the amazing Justin Smith, jackets by Schott

SS: Which fellow designers are you most excited about seeing in London?
JrVaJ: Luella, Louise Goldin, House of Holland, Nasir Mazhar, Justin Smith, Katie Eary, Sibling, James Long, Chris Shannon, JW Anderson, Topman Design, Basso & Brooke, The Whole menswear day.

Two more SS09 looks seen in Fashion156

SS: Is there a Jaiden rVa James man/muse?
JrVaJ: Charlie Porter is the embodiment, a man unafraid of fashion and who has a huge passion for it, his love for his job stretches beyond just his job and clothes but he genuinely cares about the landscape of fashion especially menswear.

SS: What is inspiring your own personal styles at the moment? Do you have any style icons (long or short term)?
JrVaJ: Our style is experimental in many ways and we rather dress the way we feel and treat dressing as an art form as it is always how we express ourselves but we rather dress the way we see fit rather then be influenced by another person.

SS: What would you like to achieve in 2009 and beyond?
JrVaJ: Produce a catwalk show for MAN, do some collabs to deliver the label to a wider audience and hopefully work with a sports label on a more long term partnership.

SS: If you could go back in time and experience any fashion moment, what would it be?
JrVaJ: Hedi Slimane's first and last show for Dior.

Image from their SS09 lookbook, shot by Bret Llod and styled by Raph Castelmezzano

SS: What item of clothing (if any) do you wish that more men wore?
JrVaJ: A skirt or kilt. I think men should have worn skirts in the first place i don't know why it became unfashionable as it makes more sense then trousers; a skirt is less restricting more fluid and allows us men more freedom.

SS: If you could dress anyone, who would it be and what would you put them in?
JrVaJ: I would say any man that appreciates the design is good enough for us, having someone buy into what your creating is beautiful enough in itself.

SS: Have you got any recommendation that you'd like to share with our readers? (shops, hairdressers, designers, websites, bars)
JrVaJ: Justin Smith Esquire for Hats. Tate Modern & Southbank - for culture. Joiners Arms- for a drink. Schott Perfecto Jackets. House of Harlot- Amazing with rubber. Bang Bang- For Vintage. Regulation- for leather they know how to work with leather amazing

SS:Finally, what's the one question you wish people asked you but you've never had the opportunity to answer? (and what is the answer)
JrVaJ: Now that would be telling.

Hitting 25...feeling good, feeling spoiled.

Stylish presents for a spoiled, twenty five year old man.

I hope you all had a lovely Valentines Day. Despite the fact that my special one is currently across the Atlantic Ocean covering New York Fashion for Dazed... my day was still special because I hit the quarter of a century mark. Upon hitting this seemingly landmark age, a number of my friends became a little freaked out but after observing them consumed with a heady cocktail of drink mixed with feelings of nerves, excitement and desperation, it was a whole lot simpler for me. Friday evening saw me eat and drink far too much but I fell asleep hitting the big Two Five with a smile on my face and the feeling continued as I shopped, ate the most gorgeous (but sickly) chocolate cake from Maison Bertaux and vegged out in front of the TV with EJ and her aptly named cat, Valentine (we watched The Next Karate Kid). Of course, the best thing about any birthday is the present part (shallow, superficial, me...ha!)....

As Susie escaped to New York on Friday afternoon my birthday shenanigans began a day early and what a way to start proceedings! The present came in a bag decorated with Menswear Show Invites (my favourite being Moschino’s simple cardboard invitation adorned with an etching of dark shades and a protruding, furry moustache) and what was inside truly made me feel spoiled and special. You all know that I love hi tops a little too much but one of the reasons for my love has been the styling of recent Lanvin shows. Top of my footwear lust list has been this pair of Lanvin Hi tops...Susie knows me so well and this is the best present ever! I will be wearing them out for the first time today as I am being taken out to lunch by my sister and her fiance.

On to the day itself and EJ ensured that I had a great day on the present front. First up, a great vintage find and the perfect day bag that I've been searching for for some, the search is over thanks to her! Inside the bag (wrapped in Christmas Penguin paper) was the perfect posing day/night gown which would not look out of place on a relaxed Don Draper reading the morning paper. Whenever I am at home, I'll be donning this robe.

The stylish birthday presents continued with a trip to the shops to spend some of that birthday money which was burning a hole in my pocket. After thoroughly exploring the offerings on the High Street I succumbed to a fitted navy shirt from COS....the shopping will continue once a couple of cheques clear...

I will work my presents into my next batch of outfit shots will be posted later this week. So far being 25 is great!

Picture Postcard - Dressing in monochrome

Seeing double...The two covers of VMAN's Spring Issue

Dearest EJ

Thanks to the Fashionisto I just can't wait for next weeks trip to Borders where I will happily feed my magazine addiction but before I can, I came across the above images. The cover of the Spring issue of VMAN reminded me of your declaration in yesterday's window shopping outing that you wanted to wear a one colour outfit (with purple of course being your favourite choice from the spectrum). VMAN's cover story is dedicated to the second VMAN/FORD Male Model Search. This time the contest was too tight to call, so it was declared a tie. The result are two covers for VMAN’s spring 2009 issue. Dressed in coral, CJ Hancock wears the latest from Calvin Klein, while Jake Madden wears Givenchy. We should both give monochromatic dressing a try for Spring, I am game if you are (of course we'll choose better colours than the ones above)!

Much love

Steve

Style Salvage Speaks to... Makin Jan Ma

We first came across Makin Jan Ma designs over on Style Bubble where the Central St Martins graphics grad who saw Spike Jonze and Wong Kar Wai as his contemporaries had taken an odd route by evolving the characters of his future films and creating fashion for them. Film, photography, fashion, illustration, poetry are intertwined as Makin uses all of these mediums to express the ideas overflowing from his mind. With his SS09 Collection "You are my milky way" the Japanese London-based designer takes us on an intergalactic journey with wearable spaceship and outer space prints. We caught up with the creative chap and he offered the below insight into the workings of his mind...

Two characters from 'You are my milky way'

Style Salvage: Tell us a little history about your beginnings…
Makin Jan Ma: I wanted to make film and so I tried to start. I started writing stories and scripts 3 years ago. And then I started making props and clothes for my stories and characters as part of the process of my brainstorming. And once some Japanese buyers saw my clothes and they told me they liked it and agreed to try to sell for me. Since then I start making collections. I started from not knowing a thing about fashion collection nor any idea of making clothes. And for these 3 years I slowly feel that I am finishing my foundation course and going into a degree course of making clothes. I feel a long journey of learning just starting now again. Very exciting.

SS: Confusingly for some, your design work provides costumes for your characters, describe your work in your own words...
MJM: I write stories and scripts and I make clothes for my characters. Whenever I have a chance I push myself to make films of my stories. And creating stories and thinking about clothes becoming a very mixed up process in my head. Sometime the story come first, and sometime the clothes. I stop worrying what come first or second. I just keep working towards the film. For the moment I feel that I am actually practicing a big research project for my future film. By keep creating and collecting ideas, I feel confident to move on slightly everyday.

SS: When can we expect the finished film?
MJM: The film I am going to make which I will be very fan of myself... I think that will come maybe in 5 or 10 years time... I don't know yet. But I will keep making shorts and experiment films to enlarge my vision and experience. Film making for me is a life long process. All the directors that I respect they spend a life time to develop. And I am very glad that I have started my route. It is a serious thing for me. But when I start seeing more people wearing my clothes in their daily life I start to think the film is already starting in a different form. They are like being carried to life of reality in a different aspect. Running my film project so far gives me the freedom to observe, collect and create different ideas everyday. I enjoy the process and I am not looking at it to reach an end yet. I will keep working hard on it which is what I can promise for now.

SS: Talk us through your favourite character thus far?
MJM: I have a character named Guts. He is a sentimental guy who like to think about little things in life. There is always confusions and contractions in his mind. Love is an important thing in his life and he chase for the true feeling of time.

SS: Have you got a set design process? Do you use inspiration boards?
MJM: I don't have a set design process but I am collecting ideas from my surroundings every moment. I work very spontaneously. I would like to allow myself freedom in my process of creation.

SS: What films/books/tv-programs/moments and stories currently inspire your design?
MJM: Japanese Actress/Singer Chara singing MY WAY in the film called Swallowtail Butterfly, is a 1996 movie by Japanese film director Shunji Iwai.

SS: What were some of the elements that influenced the spring/summer collection?
MJM: Milky Way... The endless space of unknown which surround you when you first catch a sight of love.

SS: Do you see directors or designers as your main contemporaries?
MJM: Directors give me hopes and designers bring me drives.

SS: What would you like to achieve in 2009 and beyond?
MJM: A meditation trip, a pretty long one

SS: What's the one question you wish people asked you but you've never had the opportunity to answer?
MJM: Would you like to act too?

Desire to recreate Take Ivy

Scanned images from Take Ivy courtesy of ACL.

During the late sixties, a Japanese photographer traveled across the northeastern United States stopping at each of the Ivy League schools to document the style of the era. The resulting book, titled Take Ivy, is inspiring. This beautiful photo book is practically impossible to get hold of (it was out of print until a few years ago when a small run was re-released, only to immediately sell out) but thankfully scans exist online. I first came across the book via Thenonplace who managed to scoop a first edition of the book and then he duly put his copy of the 2006 reprint on ebay (it sold for £410 demonstrating the demand for this limited edition book). A Continuous Lean has dedicated a number of posts to this preppy style bible and it is thanks to Michael Williams that I've been able to see inside this world.

Scanned images from Take Ivy courtesy of ACL.

Although these scans are of a time and a place I will never know and are of a sartorial style that is not my preferred aesthetic, there is no denying that they are truly wonderful. shots These images have instilled a desire to embark on my own exploration of a specific style, all I have to do is decide who to focus my lens on for my photographic style documentary. I sense a summer road trip, who wants to ride shotgun?

P.S. It is my birthday on Saturday...if anyone has a spare copy of Take Ivy and would like to send me something special please do...

Giveaway! Burberry The Beat

Burberry are giving one lucky Style Salvage reader a bottle of their new scent, Burberry The Beat.

To stand a chance of winning, please tell us what the models are looking at in the below image (keep it relatively clean, folks)... The prize will be awarded to the entry which makes us laugh the hardest... come on readers we expect belly bursting laughter...

Please send your your entries to stylesalvage@gmail.com. The deadline for entries is Sunday, February 15th. We will post the best entries and of course name the winner the following day.

You can learn more about Burberry The Beat on their Facebook, Myspace, and Bebo pages.

Wardrobe Observations: 1 - Green with envy

Last week I mentioned the looming threat of EJ's visit to London where she has promised to ransack my wardrobe and scrutinise every piece...that day is drawing ever nearer. Before organising (and at times hiding items) the sorry excuse that is my wardrobe I have spent the morning scanning the contents and as well as invoking some form of fear deep within me...I have realised something...I need more green. We have frequently discussed the importance of colour in previous posts on the blog and its importance should not be underestimated. After my quick content survey it is clear that the predominant colours are grey, navy and blue...very few items deviate from this palette which is a shame. I only have two green items, one branded t shirt and one cashmere jumper...I need more. I've always known that green is certainly a colour which suits my skin and hair tones but I have been recently inspired by glimpses of green in two recent images posted by the Sartorialist and snippets of moss like shades on the the runway.

In addition to the wonderful theatre of the show, 'The McQueensberry Rules' contained a bounty of desirable stand-alone pieces. The show had a wealth of depth, every time I look at this collection I see another highlight but the above look is my current favourite and I love the earthy tones. For AW 09 Lanvin continued the blend of traditional luxe fabrics and technological twist but it was the mix of deep red and green accessories against the well cut relaxed suits which got me excited.

Away from the runway, the Sartorialist's smoking man from the Left Bank has combined the best example of a pea coat that I've seen all year with a lighter shade of green fingerless gloves. As for the other Sartorialist chap (captured outside the Lanvin show), The Sunday Best simply described him as perfectly executed and I could not agree more. This is one classy shade of green mixed perfectly with blue and purple, which ultimately creates a very dapper look....when I grow up I want to be this man.

This is the first of undoubtedly many wardrobe observations. I am a mere two days aways from EJ's visit so more posts will surely follow. When was the last time that you surveyed your wardrobe?

Vibskov's Autumn/Winter Encore with friends

I spent the afternoon catching up on a number of shows from Stockholm (Bertoni and Whyred are particularly worth mentioning) and Copenhagen and it is great to see a number of exciting designers showing in these (relatively) new fashion capitals. For me, men's fashion is always in need of new blood and and a fresh point of view (and no more than now given the doom and gloom of recent weeks) and these shows have helped me see that it is out there, Copenhagen in particular. Every February and August, Copenhagen is host to Northern Europe's largest fashion event. Susie has recently returned from covering the goings on at Copenhagen and her coverage combined with her enthused ramblings at home have forced me to write a few words on Vibskov and chums.

According to Susie's excited ramblings Henrik Vibskov is followed and celebrated like a Rock God in his native country and it is easy to see why, as well blowing his adoring fans all away with his colourful prints he creates quite the spectacle and knows what constitutes a great show. Of course we saw this collection in Paris but I loved hearing about his encore show last week. I wish more designers knew how to put on a great show.

What makes a great show?

• Find a great venue - Vibskov's venue was The Grey Hall in the semi self-governing state of Christiania with approximately 850 residents and plenty of pot consumption.
• Invite more than just the usual fashion crowd to create a different type of fashion experience.
• Allow plenty of beer. A Bring your own policy makes for an interesting party feel.
• A well chosen sound track.
  
• An interesting collection helps but if all the boxes are ticked then it is not necessarily a necessity.
  

Copenhagen was far from just a one man show though, although heavy on the monochrome Jean//phillip's collection was anything but dull. Highlights included slim silhouettes in fabrics ranging from provocative leather, PVC and sheer black chiffon to the more subdued wool in black and grey, jersey and black and white woolen tartan. Soulland, one of the few purely menswear designers showing, saw knitted long johns, quilted jackets, high-necked knits and trousers made out of high endurance rubber which created a slightly unnerving collection.

If you've not had time to look over show images from the Scandinavian fashion weeks, I suggest that you make yourself a cup of tea and pore over designers new and old (Please note: Style Salvage is not suggesting that you pour hot tea over the designers, please just drink it and marvel at the shows whilst sipping tea).

Fashion156 playing with pastels

Painting with pastels...Image from Fashion156 editorial. Flower Cap, Shirt and Jacket by Satyenkumar. Pink Bow Tie by Made with Hands painted by stylist.

After waking up to yet another grey and damp Monday morning in London, I have sought comfort yet again in a cup of tea (strong, milk with one sugar) and the latest editorial over on Fashion156. In my opinion there is nothing online half as good as the editorials showcased on this site and I was not disappointed by the Pastels issue, which once again showcases emerging design talent with established names.

I for one am fed up with all this grey and am chomping at the bit for some warm sunshine! The latest shots transport me back to the seaside and pressing my chubby cheeked face against the windows of Italian owned ice cream parlours. When most people think of pastels they are reminded of afternoons spent at nursery school creating a masterpiece to grace the outside of their fridge whilst getting more pastel chalk on themselves as opposed to the paper in front of them. For me, all of these memories have been diluted with thoughts of food, either the windows of Parisian patisseries with a mouth watering selection of macaroons or the equally salivating inducing sight of tubs of interestingly flavoured ice cream.

My favourite look...Pink Check Jacket and Trousers all by Jaiden RvA James

Pastels offer the perfect Spring colour palette but more often than not they are worn in a tired and uninteresting way. Here, Guy Hipwell has played with pastel shades and used plaids, polka dots, florals and textured accessories to breathe fresh life into this Spring palette. My favourite look of all is the one directly above which features a whole look by Jaiden rVa James. For their Spring Summer 09 collection they traded in lace and the subdued colours of previous seasons for gingham and spring pastels and have certainly captured my imagination in the process. The shirts and jackets are decked out in gingham and adorned with oversized pockets in soft pastel shades. These pieces are complimented by below the knee shorts with a hint of gingham, and solid, pleated high-waisted trousers. This is adventurous Spring Pastel dressing.

Pastel Polka Dot Gang...Spotty Cardigan by Ground Zero, t-shirt by Carola Euler, jeans by American Apparel

If you were in any doubt before, this editorial confirms that pastels offer are a wonderfully Spring friendly colour palette and can be embraced wholeheartedly with pastel blue tailoring or delicately integrated into everyday style in the form of accessories and footwear (the Kurt Geiger and Grenson collaboration springs to mind).

Pale Pink Cardigan by Martin Margiela, check shirt by Marc by Marc Jacobs, pink bow tie by Made with Hands painted by stylist.

As I said over on the featured MAN article on Fashion156...If you are half as fed up with wearing dark ensembles as I am, it is time to embrace the coming season and the patisserie-like selection of pastel shades on offer...right after devouring a macaroon or two...unfortunately, it is a little too cold right now to take on a double scoop of pistachio ice cream...

Style Salvage Speaks to... Martyn Bal

Out of the seemingly countless Spring Summer 09 lookbooks we have seen over the course of the last few months Martyn Bal's is one of the few that we remember vividly. We have to admit that Bal was not on our radar until we saw his vision for this coming Spring but we eagerly researched him and his impressive CV says it all... we can't wait to see his next collection (images for this should be up shortly). Martyn Bal has learnt his trade at some of our favourite menswear designers and we love what he is doing on his own label so we were thrilled when he agreed to speak to us.

Style Salvage: Describe your work in a few words.
Martyn Bal: We aim to challenge fashion conventions with an architectural vision of shape, fit and proportion, whilst effortlessly juxtaposing strength and fragility, forcefulness and elegance, with hedonism and romanticism.

SS: You have certainly learnt your trade at some prestigious places from being an apprentice at Dirk Bikkenbergs, completing an MA in Menswear at the RCA, assisting Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme, designing collections for Versace, and directing the men's studio for Burberry's Prorsum. Which experience would have shaped your design the most?
MB: Every single experience has been important to me. Different people and places have had different influences on my work. At Bikkembergs I learned all about tailoring and constructing a perfect jacket or coat, whereas at Dior Homme I received more exposure to creating an image. Having had a mentor like Hedi Slimane has been extremely valuable to me in terms of understanding vision, and how to apply a vision into the finest and often overlooked detail. Burberry was a good corporate school, where I learned about the more institutional sides of this industry.

SS: Having seen so much at such a young age, what advice would you give a young designer wanting to forge a career in menswear?
MB: Ambitious people often want too much at once. I believe it is essential to be patient and learn step-by-step.

SS: Have you got a set design process? Do you use inspiration boards?
MB: I don’t have a set design process; every season may be approached differently. Sometimes I find an image and work around this to build up a story, other times I simply start to draw and find reference along the way. I never restrict my creativity to just one theme. Often different media inspire me. Being a modernist at heart, I use graphic design, contemporary art and music culture as a springboard for inspiration.

SS: What (if any) films/books/TV-programs/moments and stories currently inspire your design?
MB: I love watching the classic Michael Caine movies, or a young Terence Stamp in Pier Paolo Pasolini’s TEOREMA. However, it’s attitude, contradiction and behaviour that inspire me most, rather then having one particular muse.

SS: Your spring/summer 09 collection provided one of the strongest look books that we've seen all season, what were the main inspirations behind it?
MB: With the SS09 collection I wanted to emphasize fit and proportion and work with soft and light materials. It is a play on dualities, confidence and romanticism; Cropped pants, long t-shirts and more volume at the top. I also worked around the idea of conscious dressing to defy authority, as in adolescent rebellion.

SS: What can we expect to see in your next collection?
MB: The AW0910 collection is about rejecting traditional forms and anticipating the future, so there is strong play on fit and proportion throughout the collection. With regards to colour and print, I have tried to arrange it in such way that from a distance it agrees completely with vitality in all its forms. We have asserted a lot of attention to detail and finishing. Our collection breaths luxury and craftsmanship, made to the industry’s highest standards. We have also been working around the idea to propose ‘The new suit.’

SS: What would you like to achieve in 2009 and beyond?
MB: The way things are looking at the moment, 2009 is going to be a challenging year for the industry. It would not surprise me if some fashion houses were to fail. We believe that in times of turmoil it is leadership and innovation that create opportunities. Our aim is to do just that for 2009 and beyond.

Hope on the High Street

Last night I dreamt that I was the proud owner of a thriving menswear boutique in an unknown district of an unknown city. The rails were stocked with a wonderful mixture of good quality wardrobe staples, well selected vintage pieces and there were areas for my favourite designers and recent graduates to showcase their talent and of course to wow the viewing public in to consumer submission. The shop itself was busy and people were relaxed, comfortable and, most importantly, leaving with a smile and a full complimentary shopping tote.

The reason for my dream, aside from my obsession to one day play shop, was the fact that I couldn't get to sleep last night, so to combat my restlessness I decided to re-listen to the Monocle Weekly. As I was drifting off the distant voices I could hear belonged to Tyler Brûlé and Lord Mandelson (British Secretary of State for Business, Enterprise & Regulatory Reform). As they discussed their views on how budding entrepreneurs should ride the waves of the recession and make a difference (with the help of a few banks who actually lend money responsibly), it triggered off my entrepreneurial spirit in making a mark on the retail landscape. One day my friends, one day...

The Monocle discussion highlighted that our High Streets have become so overrun with huge chain outlets that they have lost their community spirit. On the most part, if you have seen one high street you have seen them all. The closest High Street to where I grew up is now a very depressing sight (not that it was much better when I was a nipper) where most of the large chains have now left the town centre and retreated to out of town shopping areas leaving a mourning ghost town- only Primark and KFC survive. Sad times indeed but there is hope. Lambs Conduit Street (as profiled by Monocle last year) symbolises what can be achieved and, when I own a shop, it will certainly be part of this retail renaissance.

Furthermore, despite the obvious decline of our much lived high streets there are glimmers of hope offered, surprisingly, by a number of megabrands. The blogosphere has been inundated with collaboration news and impressive look books from the likes of Uniqlo, Topman, COS and even H&M.

From the previews that I've seen, the best of the lot is Uniqlo's guest-helmed designer invitation lines. As we have come to expect (and rely) from a collaboration with the Japanese megabrand, basics are the rule, but each designer's spirit still prevails. The Opening Ceremony (designs hitting the stores in March) feature cropped lengths and plaids in washed-out pastels and I'd gladly buy the lot...

Released twice a year in February and September, Lens was set up in 2006 as an area dedicated to a handful of changing designers in the flagship store on Oxford Circus. A few seasons on and the Lens area is renowned for pushing the boundaries when it comes to high street fashion and it really is a delight to see designs by the likes of Carolyn Massey, James Long, Mjolk, Kasper Harup-Hansen and Dexter Wong hanging on the rails of a High Street retailer...my only complaints would be that they don't stock enough small and mediums and that it would be nice to see the Lens area in more stores across the country.

Susie hearts COS for reasons detailed in her post last month but it should be added that I have hearted (??) this certain store for longer than she has. The simple, well made clothes in soft colour palettes can be worked in to any closet. The store consistently provides a clean and attractive aesthetic and for me the store really comes into its own when the sun comes out and the looks I have seen for the coming Summer are just how I envision myself dressing.

So despite the fact that many of our cloned high streets are on the decline (if you still don't know what I mean then I suggest a quick walk down Oxford Street or my home town of Margate) there is hope provided by a number of major retailers stocking menswear. The entrepreneurial spirit demonstrated by these High Street megabrands have inspired me to look at the blue print of my own retail haven- there is certainly room for all of us.

Style Salvage Speaks to... Carolyn Massey

Carolyn Massey is one of our favourite menswear designers and we expect big things from her in 2009. She has established herself as one of the key names in British menswear, producing both her own soft, relaxed luxury clothes and a number of salivation inducing pieces for her Topman Lens line - thanks to her designs, this leading fashion retailer recently brought the cape to the High Street!

We've not got long to wait until she takes her place in London Fashion Week's first ever dedicated menswear line up with her first solo show (February 25th can't come soon enough) so we were so pleased when she agreed to answer our questions despite that fact that she must be extremely busy right now. As well as looking back on an extremely successful 2008, the interview looks forward to her upcoming solo show and the designer reveals her love of Stephen Fry and his Fair Isle jumpers...

Style Salvage: After completing your MA at the RCA in 2005, what made you take the somewhat daunting leap to start your own label?
Caroyln Massey: I was frustrated and bored with what i was doing at the time, and I had developed some good personal orders - it felt like the right thing to do.

SS: We don't have too long to wait now until your first solo show at London Fashion Week (you are the first menswear designer to get this sponosorship) and we can't wait! Combined with the seasonal diffusion lines, Topman have certainly given you a platform to show off your designs, which has grown and grown. How did you first start working with Topman and how has the relationship grown?
CM: I was approached by Matthew Murphy of b Store who coordinates the area in my 1st season at Rendezvous showroom in Paris. The collections have grown and next season we are going up to 4 collections a year which is really exciting. For me it means that I can also design in other areas- accessories for example. The show is a pretty amazing the opportunity that I have been given, but I've worked hard for it.

Massey's creations for Topman Lens, including that cape and pieces from the SS09 line.

SS: The recent seasonal diffusion line with Topman was based on 'What it is to be a gentlemen' and it was so popular that we weren't quite quick enough in getting anything! Were you surprised by the success of the line?
CM: Yes and no- it feels like I've been doing my own thing for a while and now people are coming round to it. Amongst other things, I'm obsessed with the sense of ceremony that can be attached to dress and something about that feels really important right now.

SS: Your headmasterly cape left us salivating over our keyboards and was arguably the highlight. What was the inspiration behind it?
CM: My old flatmate had this amazing Dutch nurses cape! I will often look to uniform or old garments for ideas and also to look at construction... During Paris when I go over for sales I will go off to the flea markets and second hand shops. I take a huge empty suitcase and come back with it full.

SS: What is your vision of the gentlemen today?
CM: Erm... Pass!

SS: Who are your style icons?
CM: Currently Stephen Fry- love him and his Fair Isle jumpers.

SS: What is currently inspiring your design?
CM: No one I can name- there's a sense of mystery that has to surround this for me- In my head my muse is everyone and no one, a blurred grainy black and white photograph.


SS: Congratulations on being named the first ever fashion winner of the Reflect Forward Award 2009, how important is research to your design process? Have you got a set design process? Do you use inspiration boards?
CM: Research is integral to any design process. Just lock me away in an archive! I have a design/mood wall in the studio that changes every season. There is a process of gathering ideas and fabric and trims and sticking them to the wall and then figuring out how it all sits together.

SS: What would you like to achieve in 2009 and beyond?
CM: Why, world domination, of course...

SS: Finally, what's the one question you wish people asked you but you've never had the opportunity to answer? (and what is the answer)
CM: If I told you I'd have to kill you.

London and the resurrection of E. Tautz

I have a stinking cold today so feel pretty sorry for myself but there is reason to be cheerful. Thankfully, it is now only a matter of a few weeks until we get to experience the first (half) day of London Fashion Week wholly dedicated to menswear. The welcomed initiative from the BFC has grown out of the success of MAN and will increase the quota of men’s attire at Fashion Week. The all-male showcase will take place across the afternoon of 25 February in the grounds of the Natural History Museum and I can't wait to cover it!

“It’s exciting to be expanding the MAN project and getting wider recognition for the brilliant menswear coming out of London. Other big names joining MAN on the bill include Tim Soar, Carolyn Massey and E. Tautz .” Fashion East’s Lulu Kennedy (who we interviewed last year).

The list of designers create further reasons to be optimistic about the state of menswear in this fair city but as I am excited by all the featured designers, I am intrigued most by E. Tautz...because before last week's mention on A Continous Lean I was not aware of this distinguished sporting and military tailors.

Upon further investigation, the history of the brand is plain for all to see. For example, in 1895 Winston Churchill, aged just 21, became a customer at E. Tautz and his first order consisted of a pair of twill Tautz overalls but his as he grew older his wardrobe grew larger as E. Tautz decked him out in luuxurious pieces including white cashmere racing breeches and chocolate satin racing jackets with pink sleeves. However, it is thanks to the good people at Norton & Sons that we have the imminent relaunch of the storied house as a ready-to-wear collection.

It will be exciting to see so much emerging talent on show on the 25th but it is refreshing to see the seeming resurrection of such a historic brand which advocates skilled local manufacturing.

I will leave you with the following insight in to the etiquette of the house...

'We champion the notion of dressing properly and of men taking pride in what they wear. We adhere to the age old belief that how you dress reflects your respect for the event and for your host. Edward VIII said it best. 'Be always well and suitably dressed for every conceivable occasion.'