Discovering Armando Cabral

Exclusive first look at Armando Cabral

You should recall that one of my highlight experiences of the AW10 season was a visit to the Showroom Next Door during the height of London Fashion Week. The Touba Distribution curated showroom allowed me the opportunity to inspect and fantasise over a few of my favourite brands while introducing me to a few new ones. I spent the best part of two hours fully immersing myself in the new collections of Mr. Hare, Casely-Hayford, H by Harris and Bruno Chaussingnand before being acquainted with Japanese denim specialist Sable Clutch and amazing knitwear by The Inoue Brothers. The space became my dream walk-in wardrobe the moment I stepped through the doors of 16 Hanover Square. More than that though, it was a space that exemplified everything that I find exciting about menswear design in London; namely it's diversity and constant sense of sartorial evolution and revolution. Having kept in contact with one of its key curators, Fode Sylla, I am pleased to declare that the Showroom Next Door will return for SS11 throughout the upcoming LFW. In addition to this piece of exciting news I can also offer an exclusive first look at one of the new additions to the lineup, the debut offering from Armando Cabral.

Armando Cabral as shot by Adrien Sauvage at Showstudio as part of TNS

“Style. You either have it or you don’t. Armando’s got it”.
Simon Foxton

Now the name Armando Cabral should be familiar with you. Cabral is quite simply one of the most recognisable male models Having already made his mark on the catwalk, his namesake shoe range is the next step. The footwear line sees Cabral team up with Rucky Zambrano who spearheaded innovation and technology at Vibram before serving as Head Designer for shoes and accessories at Hugo Boss. Together, they make quite a team. Making its international debut for SS11, Armando Cabral is a collection of luxury footwear for men. Ahead of its release on the international markets, Armando Cabral hosted a small presentation in Lisbon, Portugal, which gained coverage in the most prestigious local publications but didn't make it online (to the best of my knowledge). Unsurprisingly, the collection was soon picked up by several major boutiques and department stores in Portugal. Armando’s international debut collection for SS11 has already gained the support of many key-players in the world of men’s fashion. On a retail level, a small preview presentation in July has already landed the brand prestigious accounts including Beams international Gallery in Japan and an exclusive with Wrong Weather in Porto. The upcoming SS11 main presentation in London is eagerly awaited by press and buyers alike but I can offer a bit of a preview...

This is one beautiful desert boot. The moment I clapped eyes on them my feet were crying out for them...

...but what about this mustard version...

...or this Gunner friendly red. Oh I want them all.

The ideal shoe for a bright summer, boat moccasin

A more neutral boating moccasin option

I know EJ loves purple but what about this hand painted moccasin?

High-top

The huarache sandal

Handmade in Italy out of the highest quality materials, the range includes modern takes on classic shapes, all the while showcasing attention to detail and a vibrant colour palette. As you can see above, the collection offers a full range of styles ranging from high-top sneakers to classics like the desert boot, boating moccasin and woven sandal, all with an individual signature. The huarache sandal for example, has been updated with the addition of a vulcanized rubber sole, to combine the sophistication of the traditional upper with the flexibility of modern technology, while the boating moccasin comes in supple Swiss leather, with a hand painted finish for the coloured versions. The lasted constructions are lined in high quality calf leather, with suede, full grain and cotton canvas outers.

The combination of Cabral's innate style and Zambrano's eye for design and attention to detail has created an elegant addition to the men's footwear market. If I was excited enough about the next installment of the Showroom Next Door before I knew about the addition of Armando Cabral (which I was), now my mind and limbs are as restless as a child's on Christmas Eve. Roll on London Fashion Week.

Eye on Goodwood

I had been debating whether or not book a whole weekend of fun and frolics at Vintage at Goodwood for the last few months so when myself and Susie were offered a day ticket by the British Fashion Council we jumped on to the coach. For those of you unfamiliar with the festival, it is fresh to the ever growing summer circuit and combines art, music, fashion and film while celebrating Britain of the 1940s, 50s, 60s, 70s and 80s. We accepted the trip to add support behind London's New Gen finest at a special show entitled 'Future Vintage' - the collectibles of the future that include Louise Gray, Holly Fulton, Michael van der Ham, Mary Katrantzou and David Koma. As expected there were school trip style japes throughout the day with London's emerging talent but there was plenty of time to explore the vintage space and ample opportunity to partake in our favourite pastimes, people watching.

It was quite fascinating observing the crowds diverse interpretation of vintage and to see how that filtered down in to their choice of attire for the day. Rather than become bewildered by the ensembles I chose to focus on the details. Below are a few that caught my eye...

J. Lindeberg SS11 - The Modern North

The Modern North.

For SS11, J.Lindeberg continue its endeavour of redefining modern classics with a Scandinavian point of view. By respecting old traditions and combing them with the technical advancements of today, Pierangelo D'Agostin's sophomore collection is one of pieces that you wish had been hanging in your wardrobe for years. I first encountered the collection's mix of lightweight functionality and elegance when the look book images dropped in my inbox at the tail end of last month. Ever since then I've been eager to get my hands on the collection and last Friday I got my chance. Before I pick out the key pieces and look at the highlights in more detail, I think it best to take another glance through the look book to help see what my fuss was all about...

"It’s about elegance with a new attitude, we provide the components for you to put together and create your individual point of view"

Artistic Director, Pierangelo D’Agostin.

For inspiration, D'Agostin looks to the ever growing population of urban cyclists of our city landscapes as he revisits not only the aesthetics, but also the purpose, and functionality of a garment. Each garment has been shaped and further developed with technical fabric mixes and
advanced construction methods. Fast becoming the chosen form of city transport for the modern and aware man, cycling, and the function found in utility clothing, evolved from a specific purpose. J. Lindeberg’s focus is to adapt these concepts and apply them to fulfill the demands of the modern world.

A rail of covetable pieces.

Ultimately more relaxed and stripped down to its bare essentials, utility outerwear is reworked to ensure that it is ready for the modern day, urban challenges. Since its very first collection in 1997, J. Lindeberg has successfully combined fashion with sportswear yet it is really under Pierangelo D'Agostin's design stewardship over the last two season that have since the brand grow in to a covetable label. J. Lindeberg is once again embracing its Scandinavian roots and there's an Italian at the helm to thank for it.

The knit in the centre is unbelievable thin yet retains the appearance of a thick cricket jumper.

We all know that the Spring/Summer months can throw up all kinds of challenges and here aviator inspired hoods and military patchwork detailing provide protection. Contrasting patterns enhance shirts and pixelated army prints provide urban camouflage, while trousers are cropped or worn rolled up to offer technical elegance whatever the weather. As an accolade to the cyclist, the ‘Dreyden’ blazer has been created to include technical mesh membrane to evaporate moisture, 4 way stretch for movement and a reflective collar.

A closer look at the Dreyden blazer's collar. Notice the reflective strip.

Reflective turnups.

In a recent interview with Dazed & Confused, D'Agostin mentioned the importance of collaborating with his tailor, Eugenio and revealed one of his guiding statements... 'Perfection doesn't exist. If you find it you are lost. If you are convinced of having found it, it's time to change your job.' SS11 might not be perfection but it cannot be far off. Proportions are streamlined, shortened and tailored closer to the body. Innovative Japanese fabrics are bonded together, constructed with taped seams and ready to perform.

One of the highlight jackets, this is ideal protection from Spring downpours.

I love the fabrics D'Agostin has sourced, this chambray shirt utilises two of them.

The coastline of Scandinavia provides the colour palette; soft and neutral tones of wet sand, fresh white surf and deep marine blues provide a backdrop for the vibrant oranges and corals found on the town houses of Stockholm. The accessories offering has grown considerably this season. Contrasting printed scarves of silk and cashmere in vintage patterns caught my eye in particular as did the brushed suede shoes...

Just look at the combination of fabrics and textures in this look. The moment I saw it, I envisioned spotting it at Pitti Uomo SS12.

A close up of the silk handkerchief in action.

A flash of vintage inspired luxury.

And another...

Even the ties had the most fabulous vintage prints.

This look encapsulates the collection wonderful, well tailored utility clothing for the warmer months.

Ever the shoeist, these brushed suede shoes held my gaze for some time.

Having been soaked a number times in the last few weeks a significant part of me wishes I had the type of lightweight protection afforded by this collection. I live and learn.

Summertime Sales

As the sunshine has been replaced with grey clouds and drizzle in recent weeks we have often found ourselves day dreaming about dressing for the season ahead, Autumn. With exposure to look books and press days it is quite easy for us to get ahead of ourselves. However, we should remember that sunshine lurks behind even the darkest of skies and there will be opportunities to dress accordingly. We should all be used to the great British summertime and we should not fall in the trap of purely dismissing it as a wash out every year it rolls in to town. There are glorious moments where we remove our coats and jumpers to allow our pasty white skin to turn a shade of reddish pink as we celebrate with childlike enthusiasm in the wonders of summer...

A moment in Broadstairs in summer but it could be any seaside town in the UK. Any hope of sunshine attracts the hoards who soon fill up every inch of sand.

An ice cream begins to melt in front of a Broadstairs beach scene.

We are only in mid August so these moments will surely come again. There will be moments where our toes get sand in between them and ice cream will melt unbelievably quickly to leave us in a mess. These are the summer's that we love to moan about but always wring out as much sunshine as we can from every beach towel. We also love a bargain. Now, is the moment to take advantage of the plethora of reduced items on offer, online and beyond, that would add so much to any summer wardrobe. We have selected just a handful of bargains to reinstate our own sense of excitement over the current season...

Clockwise from top left...Mattalini 2 jacket by Post Overals (Garbstore), Jupiter striped t shirt by Velour (Steven Alan), Red swim trunks by Steve Alan (Steve Alan), Reverse seam shirt from Steven Alan (Garbstore), Joe trousers by Hentsch Man (Garbstore), Selvage stripe launch bag by Bill Amberg (Bill Alberg), Sky blue espadrilles by Hentsch Man (Hentsch Man), Recycled flat pack leather slippers by unu (Beyond the Valley), Spinnaker tote by Woolrich Woolen Mills (oi polloi), Hartford striped shorts (Liberty).

Steve's legs on a rare outing in Westgate-on-sea. This shot was taken by his eighty six year old nan. It is framed perfectly.

Take advantage of the sales and then...to the seaside!

Albam AW10

We might not have reached mid August yet but my sweaty, aching limbs are longing to be protected by soft, texture rich fabrics as the hot, stagnant air is replaced with something a little more fresh and biting. During the press day madness back in April I encountered a dream rail of autumnal essentials at Cube. For AW10, Albam have gone back to their starting principle of creating the essential items within a man’s wardrobe, from the classic white t-shirt, through to the Italian made suit and an English crafted Pea Coat and from August to December, each month will see a capsule collection dropped into store. The first of which is imminent and to provoke a little excitement the guys posted the first batch of look book images over on their 'Behind the Scenes' blog.

Shawl collar knit. A perennial brand favourite

Knitwear is produced by a factory for which this AW10 collection will sadly be the last collection they make. The focus is on pieces inspired by the factory’s archive which counts the 1980’s America’s cup yacht team, the military and the Royal family as customers. Styles include the ‘Submariner’ roll neck and the shawl collar cardigan (a perennial favourite of Albam).

Each piece, when released, will be a numbered piece of one hundred produced.

Artisan waistcoat and chambray shirt.

The Albam signature of white details has been revisited to make them more integral to the garment itself. Highlights of this are seen in the linking of the knitwear in ecru yarn, only visible when the garment is opened up. This can also be seen in the taped seam garments creating an internal framework to the pieces.

Artisan pea coat.

Outerwear has become a focus of Albam since the release of the Fisherman’s Cagoule in 2007. Key pieces include the Workwear Jacket in a bonded cotton weave with polar fleece on the inside, which gives a more structured garment whilst being light and warm. Wax fabric also remains key with a workwear style that is crafted from wax cloth as a lightweight casual rain jacket and a Pea Coat, made from an oiled duck canvas from the USA.

Trail parka

The key pieces that embody the ‘Modern Crafted Clothing’ concept are the taped Ventile styles of the Alpine Jacket and Rain Mac. Designed and crafted in England these are waterproof garments, which combine Albam’s love of the outdoors with the forgotten expertise of one of the factories used.

Ventile mac and backpack.

This is just a handful of the styles that are coming through this winter at Albam. Throughout the ‘Essentials’ the styles remain cleanly designed with a focus on fabrication and construction. A number of the developments have arisen following discussions with customers about what they are wanting and where they themselves want to go with things. I love how the guys have remained true to their founding concept, slowly developing and growing their range all the while letting the right customers find them. I'm looking in stocking up on a few new season essentials.