Monday, 16 August 2010

J. Lindeberg SS11 - The Modern North

The Modern North.

For SS11, J.Lindeberg continue its endeavour of redefining modern classics with a Scandinavian point of view. By respecting old traditions and combing them with the technical advancements of today, Pierangelo D'Agostin's sophomore collection is one of pieces that you wish had been hanging in your wardrobe for years. I first encountered the collection's mix of lightweight functionality and elegance when the look book images dropped in my inbox at the tail end of last month. Ever since then I've been eager to get my hands on the collection and last Friday I got my chance. Before I pick out the key pieces and look at the highlights in more detail, I think it best to take another glance through the look book to help see what my fuss was all about...

"It’s about elegance with a new attitude, we provide the components for you to put together and create your individual point of view"
Artistic Director, Pierangelo D’Agostin.

For inspiration, D'Agostin looks to the ever growing population of urban cyclists of our city landscapes as he revisits not only the aesthetics, but also the purpose, and functionality of a garment. Each garment has been shaped and further developed with technical fabric mixes and
advanced construction methods. Fast becoming the chosen form of city transport for the modern and aware man, cycling, and the function found in utility clothing, evolved from a specific purpose. J. Lindeberg’s focus is to adapt these concepts and apply them to fulfill the demands of the modern world.

A rail of covetable pieces.

Ultimately more relaxed and stripped down to its bare essentials, utility outerwear is reworked to ensure that it is ready for the modern day, urban challenges. Since its very first collection in 1997, J. Lindeberg has successfully combined fashion with sportswear yet it is really under Pierangelo D'Agostin's design stewardship over the last two season that have since the brand grow in to a covetable label. J. Lindeberg is once again embracing its Scandinavian roots and there's an Italian at the helm to thank for it.

The knit in the centre is unbelievable thin yet retains the appearance of a thick cricket jumper.

We all know that the Spring/Summer months can throw up all kinds of challenges and here aviator inspired hoods and military patchwork detailing provide protection. Contrasting patterns enhance shirts and pixelated army prints provide urban camouflage, while trousers are cropped or worn rolled up to offer technical elegance whatever the weather. As an accolade to the cyclist, the ‘Dreyden’ blazer has been created to include technical mesh membrane to evaporate moisture, 4 way stretch for movement and a reflective collar.

A closer look at the Dreyden blazer's collar. Notice the reflective strip.

Reflective turnups.

In a recent interview with Dazed & Confused, D'Agostin mentioned the importance of collaborating with his tailor, Eugenio and revealed one of his guiding statements... 'Perfection doesn't exist. If you find it you are lost. If you are convinced of having found it, it's time to change your job.' SS11 might not be perfection but it cannot be far off. Proportions are streamlined, shortened and tailored closer to the body. Innovative Japanese fabrics are bonded together, constructed with taped seams and ready to perform.

One of the highlight jackets, this is ideal protection from Spring downpours.

I love the fabrics D'Agostin has sourced, this chambray shirt utilises two of them.

The coastline of Scandinavia provides the colour palette; soft and neutral tones of wet sand, fresh white surf and deep marine blues provide a backdrop for the vibrant oranges and corals found on the town houses of Stockholm. The accessories offering has grown considerably this season. Contrasting printed scarves of silk and cashmere in vintage patterns caught my eye in particular as did the brushed suede shoes...

Just look at the combination of fabrics and textures in this look. The moment I saw it, I envisioned spotting it at Pitti Uomo SS12.

A close up of the silk handkerchief in action.

A flash of vintage inspired luxury.

And another...

Even the ties had the most fabulous vintage prints.

This look encapsulates the collection wonderful, well tailored utility clothing for the warmer months.

Ever the shoeist, these brushed suede shoes held my gaze for some time.

Having been soaked a number times in the last few weeks a significant part of me wishes I had the type of lightweight protection afforded by this collection. I live and learn.

1 comment:

joy said...

super prim. And I am all for men and silk scarves. There should be a YouTube series about scarves and cuff links and all the fun accessories that men can employ in there outfits.

Joy D.


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