A Visit To LN-CC

There have been excited whispers and murmured opinions about the launch of a store in deepest, darkest Dalston for months now. Even before the unveiling of its online platform in August the industry's collective heart was all a flutter and this only intensified as details about the physical venture were circulated. Fashion month was rife with chitter and chatter around a certain odd mouthful in Late Night Chameleon Cafe. The John Skelton factor. The little point of a six thousand square foot space on Shacklewell Lane. Set designer Gary Card being tasked to create a next level retail space. An impressive roster of design talent.  The appetite was whet and expectation sky rocketed. Last Thursday was opening night and before the space was filled with wowed fashion folk, future consumers and appreciative onlookers alike, I was afforded the opportunity to explore the impressive innards of LN-CC. I did not leave disappointed.    

Within their six thousand square foot, former boxing gym space, the talented team have created a mind blowing retail space. A visit to this concept store entails, a forest, an octagon wooden tunnel which runs throughout the store, a concrete room, a bespoke wooden library, with items selected by Conor Dolan, a record store, three huge product rooms with different themes and a soundproof music room. This is a new form of retail for the capital. It is, without doubt a destination.

The skeletal tunnel runs throughout this new retail haven.

The imaginative space consists of numerous and entirely different yet complimentary concepts rooms that lead the visitor through all our various moods and influences which make up the store. In these areas the biggest of the best international designers are offered, alongside a selection of the most exciting new fashion talents around the world. For AW10, mainline brands such as Damir Doma and Rick Owens sit alongside Japanese labels Wacko Maria, Sasquatch and Unused which in turn hang close to London based brands J.W Anderson and New Power Studio - both of whom have transferred their menswear collections into women's sizes exclusively for this store. Take my hand as I lead you through each designer space...

The Earth space. Raf Simons Archive sits alongside a selection of covetable designers...

A alternate viewpoint of the Raf Simons archive.

A closer look at the J.W Anderson offering from his ‘The Saint and the Assassin’ collection. .

Raf Simons for Eastpack backpacks hang in the foreground while Margiela trainers lurk in the background.

The Light space is home to Nigel Cabourn, Christopher Raeburn, Hobo, SAQUATCHfabrix, PAM and so much more.

I thought that these were Native boots but they are are actually a preview of a new addition to the SS11 ranks 

A new discovery for me...the SASQUATCHfabrix Eototo rail.

Stunning outerwear by Christopher Raeburn. Ethically intelligent and proudly remade in England

Mouth watering and wallet bashing items from Nigel Cabourn's much talked about AW10 collection. I had to pry my wanting hands from the the longed for Everest Parka and Harris Tweed Mallary jackets. 

The Everest Parka is one of Nigel Cabourn's most famous and sought after pieces and is an exact reproduction of the coat worn by Edward Hillary during his ascent of Everest. As part of his personal collection, Cabourn has reproduced the original Everest Parka without any compromise to the production, quality or functionality.

The Warmth space was my favourite room. Creations by Rick Owens and Damir Doma are enclosed by a room of concrete. There is something quite comforting in being surrounded by a combination of expensive creations and carefully crafted cement.

Damir Doma’s Corbel asymmetric coat from A/W 10 collection in grey and black sits behind a Rick Owens look.

The salt and pepper coloured wool coat with the black graphic pattern looked particularly enticing surrounded by concrete.

Similarly, Damir Doma men's virgin wool knit with a multi grey pattern, unfinished seams, long sleeves and a crew neckline looks perfectly at home in this room.

I loved how this pattern faded in with the walls.

Are you impressed? Are you eager to explore the space for yourself? Then why not make an appointment to visit the store. However, if your next visit to the capital is just a faraway dream, do not despair. The LN-CC concept is not just focused around this impressive store. It is more an overall feeling and lifestyle which will thankfully be spread over a number of different platforms. It will permeate their product, e-commerce, parties, exhibitions and installations and will no doubt be enjoyed by many.

Weekend Reading Tip: 032c

Having complained that my blog reader had been inundated with what appeared to be two cloned posts the twentieth issue of 032c is the perfect antidote. Now, it is time to step away from the seemingly ever present and comforting glow of the computer screen and instead focus my gaze on the two hundred and sixty four pages. What began as a DIY, experiment exploring the possibilities of print has grown in to an archetypal magazine that effortlessly fuses art, culture and fashion in a lip smackingly good cocktail. The intelligence and freshness of its content is always something to savour and this issue is thankfully no different. Highlights include (deep breath) a forty page dossier on Rei Kawakubo, a closer look at Acy'teryx's efforts of pushing performance wear forward with its new line Veilance, Rem Koolhaas dicsussing Moscow's new Strelka Institute, David Simon talks anger and the American city while 032c’s latest Select presents the best of this season’s books, products, and ideas.

The twentieth issue of 032c offers welcome relief to the printed culture ennui that most of us have felt in recent years. It is the very antithesis of the quick flick through before throwaway publications that are struggling on the newstands. Now, it is time for another cup of tea and read.

LCF and Diaghilev's Ballet Russes (Part Two)

To coincide with the major retrospective at the V&A and the centenary of the Ballets Russes, London College of Fashion and English National Ballet have spent the past year working together on a unique project which examines the Ballet Russes and the incredible legacy of artistic director Diaghilev on dance, art and, of course, fashion. To mark the culmination of this exciting collaboration we decided to talk to Rob Phillips, the Creative Director of the School of Fashion Design and Technology to learn more about the project. In the first part below we set the scene and learn how the project evolved over the course of the year. Here, we learn about the creative and design processes displayed by the students throughout the course of this very special project.

Tailored trousers and jersey drape T-shirt by Deema Abi-Chahine

SS: The project began in 2009 with LCF students having the chance to explore the Ballets Russes through English National Ballet’s performances, rehearsals, set design and importantly, giving students a unique insight into costume design for dance. I'm really intrigued to hear more about the creative processes that the students explored and demonstrated. Could you talk us through some of the processes displayed?

Rob Phillips: The project gave the students amazing opportunities to explore the rich heritage of English National Ballet. The students were given access to Marden in Kent where ENB have their storage facility of costumes and sets. It is a treasure trove of all the performances past and present that ENB have been involved with. We were lucky enough to be given a guided by Head of Costume Wizzy Shawyer. Marden is also where new costumes and sets are made so it really was an unique visit.

Students also visited the rehearsals at the ENB studios in London Kensington where they were preparing for the Ballet Russes season in June 2009 at Sadlers Wells. Some of the students that went along sketched and recorded what they saw.

Fleur Derbyshire-Fox Director of Learning at the ENB gave the students a lecture about the history of Ballet Russes and the ENB which helped the students start to put into context what they were seeing. It also provided them with inspiration for what the ENB was all about. During June 2009 students were able to see performances at Sadlers Wells – for some of them this was the first time they had seen a ballet performance and was a great inspiration for them. So the students really had many experiences to draw upon when they set out on their design process whether this was through drawing or watching and listening to what was around them.

Despite the fact that it was a very creative brief – it was important the outcome was relevant to fashion. One particular menswear student was very inspired by the set, colours and lights and how all of this goes in motion with the movement of the ballet dancers - so her garment was designed to have movement in it, rather than a garment that can be danced in – in fact although the garment looks as though there is movement in it is actually quite restrictive!

The whole process for students is to create and negotiate their own path to answer the brief. The process from there is all about the individual student and the world they create from their own view point. The brief is there to give structure but the outcome is like a jigsaw, it can be played with and essentially it is all about the autonomy of each student and how they decide to interpret the brief.

Ivy printed multi-layered Vest and trousers by Tomi (Wai Yee Ho)

SS: Ultimately, the project has brought together three cultural powerhouses with spectacular results. Looking back over the finished designs and the project as a whole, how proud are you that the students have managed to the incredible legacy of Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes and the significant impact the company continues to have, not only on dance but also on art, design and fashion? I know this must be difficult but do you have any particular highlights?

Rob Phillips: The highlight for me has been watching how each student has developed their ideas. Through this process the students come to realise, that through people such as Diaghilev, elements such as fashion, art, costume, theatre ballet and dance all intermingle – they all affect each other and lend themselves to each other.

This project has opened up the mindset of the students that fashion is not just about wearing clothes and that in the design process other factors come into play – they have seen that fashion designing can be more fulfilling by using different approaches. They have become enriched when given an opportunity which isn’t just about producing designs which are for the everyday – this project showed them about creating an impact and pushing the imagination to be inspired by other practices, such as Diaghilev was. It is great that the students will now take this experience and new ways of working into their final collections – so watch this space!

Appliqué Cotton Top and shorts by Tristan Lahoz

Full Credit list for the shoot is as follows: Creative Director - Rob Phillips. Photography - Sean Michael. Assisted by - James Finnigan. Hair & Make Up -Dora Veronica Simson & Marina Kerecsanyi using M.A.C. Models - Jay, Abella and Jodie all at Nevs. Location - English National Ballet - Marden.

________________

The finished designs will be displayed at the V&A for one night during the landmark exhibition ‘Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes, 1909-1929’. The display is part of a special evening entitled Ballets Russes Design Perspectives – which takes place at the V&A at 8pm on Friday 19 November and is free (hurray!) to the public.

LCF and Diaghilev's Ballet Russes (Part One)

To coincide with the major retrospective at the V&A and the centenary of the Ballets Russes, London College of Fashion and English National Ballet have spent the past year working together on a unique project which examines the Ballet Russes and the incredible legacy of artistic director Diaghilev on dance, art and, of course, fashion. Diaghilev imaginatively combined dance, music and art to create 'total theatre'. A consummate collaborator himself, he worked with Stravinsky, Chanel, Picasso, Matisse and Nijinsky, there's no doubt that Diaghilev would have approved of this celebratory collaboration.

The students have been able to immerse themselves in the fantasy and couture world of Diaghilev and let their imaginations and creativity take over. To showcase the results of this hugely successful collaboration, twenty five students have been asked to take their designs, including garments, footwear and accessories, into production. These finished designs will be displayed at the V&A for one night during the landmark exhibition ‘Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes, 1909-1929’. The display is part of a special evening entitled Ballets Russes Design Perspectives – which takes place at the V&A at 8pm on Friday 19 November and is free (hurray!) to the public.

To mark the culmination of this exciting collaboration we decided to talk to Rob Phillips, the Creative Director of the School of Fashion Design and Technology to learn more about the project. Our chat is supplemented with an exclusive look at the students' work with a fantastic look book shot by photography Sean Michael on location at English National Ballet. As we have bombarded you with lengthy, text heavy posts in recent weeks we have decided to split our discussion in two. In the first part below we set the scene and learn how the project evolved over the course of the year...

Jacket, shirt and external front pocket trousers by Sungkyun Yuk

SS: You have spent the past year working closely with the English National Ballet on this wonderfully unique project which examines the Ballet Russes and the incredible legacy of Diaghilev on dance, art and of course fashion. How did the collaboration arise?

Rob: Phillips: The collaboration was formed over a year and half ago when the ENB first approached London College of Fashion through the Fashion Business Resource Studio (FBRS - regarded as a one stop shop for the fashion industry, sharing the creative, business and technical expertise of London College of Fashion with the fashion and lifestyle industries).

ENB essentially came to the table with the idea of the collaboration to partner on a project to celebrate the centenary of Diaghilev. They were keen to work with an educational body with fashion expertise, LCF as the country’s only college to specialise in fashion education, was a natural fit.

Exaggerated contour fit, jersey marl stirrup trousers By Mishaal Mansoor

SS: How did the project evolve throughout the year

Rob Phillips: The aim of the brief was to inspire students through the work of Diaghilev and the Ballet Russes and celebrate the centenary and create a project that fused dance and fashion. The brief was tailored by me to ensure the collections that were produced were not ballet costumes made to dance in – but garments that reflected the beauty, movement and excitement of a Ballet Russes performance.

The brief allowed the students the freedom and autonomy to be creative – a key component of a brief of this kind. The project began back in Autumn 2009, it was a complex process which involved multiple pathways and courses – it is one of the rare projects that was a real cross school collaboration, and involved designers, photographers and illustrators which really enriched the whole process. Initially over 150 students took part and submitted work before Christmas 2009. The final stage of the process was the difficult task of shortlisting – which was undertaken by LCF and ENB staff to decide on which students work would be taken forward for production.

In the true spirit of Diaghilev, we prepared the shortlisted students to present their work in a number of ways including: static exhibition, photoshoot, a live salon show and documentary film. This cross genre execution also echoed the cross course collaboration. The whole project was scheduled to finish with an event at the V&A which would showcase these various outputs.

Devore striped vest and trousers – by Ng Chun Bong Julio

SS: Rarely do students have the ability to immerse themselves in such an exciting world. What was the reaction of the students to the task?

Rob Phillips: The students were really inspired by the rich history of art, music and image that they had access to. The whole Diaghilev scene was so imaginative and ‘out there’, the students celebrated the fact they could just indulge themselves in their designs which were not about being worn or designed for the high street – this project was actually about designing something to honour Diaghilev rather than a practical, wearable garments.

Circle cut sleeve shirt and hook'n'eye shorts by Tomi (Wai Yee Hoo)

Full Credit list for the shoot is as follows: Creative Director - Rob Phillips. Photography - Sean Michael. Assisted by - James Finnigan. Hair & Make Up -Dora Veronica Simson & Marina Kerecsanyi using M.A.C. Models - Jay, Abella and Jodie all at Nevs. Location - English National Ballet - Marden.

________________

Please do come back later on today for the second part of our discussion where we hear about the creative and design processes displayed by the students throughout the course of this very special project.

Hosting Mr Hare at Liberty's

On Friday 26th November, as part of the Liberty’s shoe weekend, Mr. Hare will be holding a Q&A session in the men’s shoe department between 5pm and 7pm. Remarkably, he has asked me to host the evening. *Gulp*. There's no doubt that I will need your moral support so please join us for our fireside chat and cocktails evening. Weighty shoe subjects such as Blake construction in wet climates, the new male sartorialism, shoe styling and the relevance of shoe classicism in a modern world will all be tackled. However, if you have a question for Mr. Hare on shoes or any other subject for that matter please do ask it.

The evening will also feature the first public viewing of the forthcoming SS11 collection ‘Ain’t No App For That’. With this collection, Mr. Hare continues to push and explore the boundaries of footwear with spectacular effect. The collection showcases shapes and materials that I've never come across before (including soft Napas, hard Vachettas, Shrunken Goat, Eel, Salmon and Ostrich shin hides). These style long, nay need to be touched and loved. We might have previewed this lust inducing collection back in September but this event will be the first public unveiling of new styles on the cubist Jopling last as well as news of other work and collaborations scheduled for the near future. If that wasn't reason enough to come down, attendees will be granted the one off opportunity to pre order styles from that collection, from the man himself, at a 15% discount. Below are a few of the many highlights of this collection...

Look book images by Marley Lohr.

So…just to recap. On Friday 26th November there will be shoes, chat, cocktails, fireplace, new stuff, discount, questions, answers, me, Mr. Hare and last but not least, you guys! If for whatever reason you can't make it but are itching to ask a question then please email us at stylesalvage@gmail.com.

A Visit To Beyond The Valley

You might have noticed that I often bemoan the lack of the vibrant retail scene that the capital deserves. Of course, there are occasions where I grumble far too much. There are a few real gems and rather than be negative I should elevate the exciting stores that do exist. One such store is Beyond The Valley.

Beyond The Valley has long been a shining retail light on the ever changing Newburgh Street. Despite the area being in a state of commercial flux, thankfully this special store has been a familiar and welcome constant consumer refuge ever since it moved to this Soho street in 2005. In just five years, the space has gone from being a springboard for emerging designers to one of London’s leading destinations for fashion innovation and cultural insight. Much of its product range is exclusive, helping the store develop a reputation for showcasing some of the most interesting talent London has to offer and earning them the title of one of the UKs CoolBrands for the last four years on the bounce.

The inviting store front.

Historically, it has had a stronger womenswear selection but this season sees the store welcome a new breed of menswear talent. In addition to its strong own label, the AW10 selection is now bursting with menswear. Contrary to a recent article in iD (to which Jason Dike recently posted a response to over on Selectism), there are thankfully a few stores that are supporting London's menswear designers and Beyond The Valley are among them. The likes of emerging design talent including Katie Eary, Omar Kashoura and Braille now seamlessly hang alongside store regulars of Makin Jan Ma, Horace and The Orphan Arms. Of course, I could wax lyrical about the new stock but I'd only bore you with my enthusiasm. The best way to get a feel of the place is to explore it. The store affords discoveries at every turn and below are a few of the items that really caught my eye...

The new menswear rail is bursting with a mouth watering array of design talent.

As previously mentioned on the page of this blog, East London based design duo Ben Vorono and Samuel Kientsch teamed up to make the debut Braille collection for AW10.

Braille update traditional elements of menswear. Their pieces are crafted from natural materials sourced in Britain and finely made. The above tweed blazer is a store exclusive.

A closer look at the exclusive piece.

London based designer Katie Eary is one of menswear’s most promising new talents. For AW10 she looked to Irvine Welsh's novel Marabou Stork Nightmares for inspiration where the protagonist's nightmares were reconfigured into jungle warrirors that donned plenty of brightly coloured textures, including the chunky knit above...

...and this digital print t shirt. Digital feather print to the front, a classic crew neck with a plain back.

Artist Makin Jan Ma writes scripts and stories, and throughout he designs clothes for the characters in these stories. It's an ongoing creative project and the fruits of which are always interesting.

One of my favourite pieces, I just love the cutaway neck.

P.C Williams was a completely new discovery. The label was set up by designer Patricia Williams early last year. With an aim of bringing a detail focussed aesthetic to London's street wear scene.

Omar Kashoura has long been a Style Salvage favourite and it is great to see him stocked in a London store once again. I was kicking myself for not ordering this reversible wool cardigan earlier this season but now I can remedy my negligence.

Lee Lapthorne's collection of accessories are handcrafted and made with luxurious combinations of digital and hand-printed British fabrics.

While AW10 welcomes this heart racing roster of menswear, the store still contains the myriad of reasons why Beyond The Valley has been on my radar ever since it opened its doors and why I've always dropped in whenever I've found myself in the area. The space has always been a great place to pick out a gift and to find independent printed publications that are ordinarily troublesome to find...     

A great selection of independent magazines.

The gift and lifestyle sections are always an Aladdin's cave of design treats. From ceramic dildos to mugs adorned with bow ties, Beyond The Valley always provides something a little different.  

Now, if you've not dropped by the store since the latest menswear stock arrived then I hope this window shopping post persuades you to do so. In addition to the boutique, they hold regular exhibitions and events which showcase the young and talented people that the store continues to support. Now, here's to supporting independent retail.