Details... Tokyo Layers

In a week that saw me style stalk Edokko who had adopted Americana in to their everyday wardrobes with gusto, this chap's silhouette in his well tailored layers really caught the eye. This is the street style of Tokyo that I love.

A visit to The Shoe of Life

"I express the avant-garde style with new viewpoints and the day-to-dayness as enjoyments by creating a form of shoes. The essence of that form is intangible love" purred Eiichi Katsukawa from behind his stand at Pitti Uomo Seventy Eight. The designer Katsukawa first fell in love with footwear when he worked in the shoe repair department at the Japanese retailer Isetan and the romance is proving to be a life long affair. Now focussed on his own collection of handmade shoes, his carefully crafted offering is growing with each passing season. Under the moniker H? Katsukawa from Tokyo, he makes hand made, eye poppingly colourful shoes, along with wonderfully textured distressed Nibe leather brogues from his studio in Tokyo. From the moment I first encountered his stand at Pitti Uomo, his leather creations never fail to raise a wry smile whilst causing a lustful glint my eyes. His love must be contagious.

For Katsukawa shoes should be enjoyed and loved rather than merely worn. As evident as this attitude is during the trade show season, I jumped at the chance to visit the craftsman at is store and repair shop, The Shoe Of Life. Located in a small (little more than six feet wide and twenty feet long) but perfectly formed space on a bustling street in Ohashi, Katsukawa and fellow cobbler breathe fresh life in to around fifty pairs of shoes per day. As I snapped away at the pair buried in leather, polish and all manner of soles, the shared passion was obvious and a delight to document...

It was a pleasure to watch two cobblers at work in such a tight space.

In addition to its main function as a repair shop and despite space being at a premium, The Shoe of Life also acts a mini showroom for H? Katsukawa from Tokyo and sales point for a variety of brand and shoe related paraphernalia. Alongside old favourites including the wonderfully distressed and texture rich Nibe leather brogues, an injection of more casual options for the new season that seem to merge loafers with desert boots and bowling shoes were all on show. Now, Katsukawa believes that good shoe design involves an intriguing balance of four elements; material, shape, pattern and style. Currently, the shoe designer is shift his focus from material and on to shape and style. The results are as special as anything before. Below are just a few of the styles that caught my wanting eye...

A few of the H? Katsukawa from Tokyo styles that caught my eye alongside a closer look at Katsukawa's nibe leather.

Details... Familiar Tokyo

In many of the sporadic moments that find me away from partaking in bashing my bank balance or stuffing my face, I've been indulging in street style scouting (mainly as a trusty sidekick to Mr Street Peeper). From well over a thousand yards on a bustling street in Harajuku I spotted a guy awash in print and colour colour, sporting a familiar sight in Agi&Sam's smiley trousers from AW11. It was a delight to see an emerging London designer being worn almost six thousand miles away from home. We couldn't really understand one another but we nodded in agreement at our shared love. 

Style Stalking... Matthew Murphy

As readers of this blog you should all know by now that London’s b store has long been a mecca for contemporary design. Whilst nurturing some of the best design talent in the capital and beyond, the store has been merging art, fashion and design seamlessly for a ten years now. With each visit to this British retail institution, there is the opportunity to discover a new designer, an exhibition, a magazine or even just a moment when you talk to either Matthew, Kirk or Kuni and leave with something new. Though undeniably a stylish haunt, it has always been more than just a physical space and has certainly offered more than mere fashion. Ever inspired. You can expect to be surprised when you visit the space, read its eponymous magazine or encounter one of its numerous but ever considered collaborations.

Now, it has been a few months since we last lurked in the shadows to partake in a spot of Style Stalking and after some fruitless outfit voyeurism, we can now make up for the barren spell with a real treat in b Store's very own Matthew Murphy. Over the course of a working week I followed the Creative Director as he worked on SS13, collaborations and events. Busy but forever stylish...

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Day One: Monday afternoon at the showroom...

Overdyed unstructured cotton blazer by b store.

Shirt by b store loves liberty. We intended this collaboration to continue for two season's but it is now on the fourth season and appears to be getting stronger and creating a life of it's own. Mainly due to the Liberty fabric selection becoming stronger each season 

Sweatshirt by One Nine Zero Six. A new edition to the b store family but already showing a great potential
Jeans and  shoes by b store

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Day Two: Popping out of the office to grab some lunch...

Moleskin double breasted blazer by b store. This blazer from AW12 has become my personal favourite and a signature shape within the collection. 

Shirt is a classic b store pinstripe oxford.

Woven tweed tie by Marwood. I believe this brand has huge potential within the mens accessory area and we are discussing the possibilities of a collab for SS13 

Two pleat seersucker chino from our SS12 10 for DSM exclusive collection 

Shoes by b store

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Day Three: At the Kingly Street store for the b Store for ASOS collaboration launch...

Shirt and blazer by Our Legacy. They have become a b store staple and their collections never disappoint. This blazer and shirt combination from their SS12 collection, channelled my love of Woody Allen late 70's style. 

Tie by Marwood

Jeans and Shoes by b store

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Day Four: Another afternoon in the showroom surrounded by shoes...

Washed twill unstructured blazer by b store 

Shirt is a b store proto from SS13 collection, we were testing different effects of bleaching. 

Neckerchief is by Hermes and was a birthday present from my friends 

Chinos and sandals by b store

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Day Five: Ending the week at the studio before grabbing a well earned drink...

Overdyed unstructured cotton blazer by b store 

Scarf by Cosmic Wonder. One of my favourite brands that we sold at the store, because of the difficulties working with Japanese brands, we had to stop working with them which was a very hard decision 

Sea Island cotton crew jumper by John Smedley 

Washed twill cotton field pant trousers by b store 

Shoes by Vans

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Details... Tonal Tokyo

Drawn to the blue tones of Tommy Ton's own Tokyo combination of New Balance and Marni. 

Treasured Items... William Oliver

There are very few writers that I'd happily read the work of regardless of subject matter but the words of William Oliver always keep my attention. Contributing to magazines, publications, books and websites, his coverage of art and fashion (along with all manner of interesting nuggets of cultural activity he comes across) is always a delight to read.  Here, he narrates two wardrobe tales for us. The first tells the story of a current obsession and future favourite whilst the other recounts a familiar and much loved staple...

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William Oliver and the future favourite from Lou Dalton 

"As this is a feature on two of my most treasured items, it seems perhaps a bit odd to celebrate something that I don't physically own yet. Rather than pull something out of my wardrobe though, that I have worn to death, I wanted to use the opportunity to focus on a piece that I know will rapidly become a treasured possession. I have chosen a shirt from Lou Dalton's Autumn Winter 12 collection, that I became a bit obsessed with after seeing it at the show and eagerly purchased after being kindly invited to a private sales evening held by Lou and the equally talented Omar Kashoura. I have been keeping an eye on Lou's work for a number of seasons, each one seemingly moving closer to a personal aesthetic for her. Then, for Spring Summer 12, the collection had an industrial slant that I really fell in love with. There was a very British feel, references coming from miner's strikes and sub-culture from the UK, but with a sense of flamboyance. Pieces were in either black or white, keeping things clean and simple, but then embellished with gold zip detailing and the occasional splash of crystal. That glam factor is something that is quite hard to pull off in menswear, but culling references from the New Romantics, with what seemed like a bit of 70s rock, the collection worked it well. 

For Autumn Winter 12, the season's collection maintained a bit of that industrial Britishness, but took it in a more military direction. The story behind the collection is of an Officer who absconds from his post and ends up living a rural life in hiding, caught up in a whirlwind romance. Drawing on that, Lou has worked in classic military ideas set against countryside silhouettes, but also managed to include two of my favourite films, My Own Private Idaho and A Taste of Honey, as further references. Heavy knits, quilted fabrics and contrasting layers came through, again in that toned down colour range. It is a collection that is really diverse in its inspirations and I loved that. 

The shirt I chose is a heavy wool work shirt, slightly oversized, black, with tonal buttons. The collar is cut really beautifully, not too small so as to be 'on trend', but not too overgrown keeping it away from that 70s Dad feel. Basically, that collar makes it timeless. Across the chest is a strip of appliqued fabrics and embroidered detailing, and it is this that makes the shirt really stand out. The embellishment feels disjointed, it is in keeping with the rest of the piece and accentuates the fit really nicely, but is slightly abstract in its placement. The different strips of fabric contrast both each other, some tough some quite feminine with embroidery, and the workwear feel of the shirt itself. This is basically what I love about Lou Dalton. Something really simple, but with an element that directly references the story she builds around a collection and shows off her ability to make interesting, beautifully crafted and completely succinct menswear."

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....and the old favourite simplicity of Erik Schedin's sneakers

"As I chose something that I didn't physically have in my hands, it seemed appropriate to also include something that has become an absolute staple for me. I grew up being addicted to trainers, from garish neon yellow and black Nike's through to anything limited edition I could get my hands on. As I entered (slightly) older age, I managed to tone down my obsession and restrict myself to pretty much only buying white Reebok Workout Plus. Basically, the trainers of Essex footballers, builders, plumbers and most of North London. Literally the most comfortable trainers ever and really nicely designed, but, ultimately, a little bit rough. Being made more than aware of the power of a pair of white trainers by the Reebok's, when I started looking around to find something that fitted the bill of being clean, simple, white but pleasantly quiet as opposed to 'a little bit rough', I came across Erik Schedin. Yes, there are a number of label's that do a nice simple white trainer, but Erik's are super light and feel like wearing luxury. They go with pretty much anything, are supremely comfortable and when he first started, refused to make them in any other size apart from his own, a 44, as he felt that was the perfect size for a pair of shoes. I also always go for an obsessive. Completely unbranded, clean and understated, they are literally the perfect white trainer."

William Oliver

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Details... Tokyo Strolling

Over the course of the thirty three hours or so we have bounced our  way across Tokyo. Today was spent much like yesterday on the fantastic cycle of shop, eat and repeat. My first purchase was a short sleeved shirt from Kapital that just so happens to match my Ally Capellino backpack. The proved to be perfect strolling companions.

Britain is making it

In support of the V&A's excellent exhibition, British Design 1948–2012: Innovation in the Modern Age, the marble halls welcomed a selection of the finest emerging British design talent last Friday for an evening of creative collaboration and problem solving. Amidst the workshops, talks and installations, William Richard Green was invited to showcase his AW12 collection, 'Hooligans Against Acid.' As one of the designers headlining a new era in British menswear, Green fuses his British influences and interest in its subcultures with a willingness to support the manufacturers and suppliers of these isles. Each collection celebrates the craftsmanship of home grown British manufacturing whilst feeling anything but heritage. His designs, like so many of the three hundred objects on show inside the exhibition showcase great British design innovation and persistence. "One of my points is that the collections are British made and predominantly use British fabric. It has been a case of building relationships over time and the quality improves." With wools and cotton drill from the same area of Yorkshire used next to Jersey knitted in Leicestershire, wax cotton from Lancashire, shirting from Cumbria, and knitwear in Shetland wool, Green has created a collection, which – bar zips – is decidedly British, both inside and out. The ideal choice to help excite visitors about the future of British menswear design. Britain is making it.

Now, I missed the event itself which included a showcase of Green's other love, Joe and Will Ask but thankfully Morgan O'Donovan was on hand to record the action with an impromptu shoot of Green's reimagined hooligans against the backdrop of the museum's ornate surroundings...

All images courtesy of Morgan O'Donovan.

3939 explores the Underground

Inspired by the bubbling ferocity of punk and founded in its aftermath, Underground's original creepers were first worn by new romantics, goths and new wavers in Camden and the wonderfully odd and undeniably British shoe, has been adopted by many a subculture since. With the label's winklepickers and steel caps still proving popular, it is their creepers which continually excite. As scenes and fashions have evolved and mutated at an ever-increasing rate, the creeper has endured. It is still the go to shoe for the intrepid, the rebellious and the subversive. Now, I have to confess to having once been somewhat intimated by the style but this phase of nervousness was soon replaced with one of curiosity. Available in a range of styles, fabrics and color ways and with four sole variations, the combinations are almost limitless. Underground's potent cocktail of history, credibility and endless possibilities is something that has inspired so many designers. This Spring/Summer season alone saw Sibling, William Richard Green, Mugler and some chap called Karl Lagerfeld collaborate with the shoe label to create versions fit for all manner of presentation and catwalk show. Joining this impressive roster of talent is one of my favourite London stores, 39-39. 

The co-operative lifestyle and retail foundations that 39-39 is built on is the perfect breeding ground for unique ideas, collaborations and exclusive products which are developed in association with a growing group of friends and family of which they obviously adore. Like all of their collaborations, this creative coming together with Underground makes perfect sense and the result is a stimulating shoe perfect for the sunny season (that I'm sure will grace us with its presence soon...hopefully). The creeper with its adornment of leopard print and studs, lands in store shortly but I couldn't resist borrowing the feet of one of my colleagues to shoot them in a recent rare moment of sunshine...  

With its single sole, traditional d-rings and addition of leopard print and 'The Night of the Hunter' inspired stud work, these are wonderful examples of a creeper done right.  In addition to the more familiar black, the detail rich design is also available in an optimistically bright hue of blue...

The Underground x 39-39 creeper will be available in store and online soon.