Saturday, 6 February 2010

Acne and the Aviator

Acne Aw10

Ever since EJ posted the ready for action picture postcard depicting a scene of 1940s pilots over a year ago, I keep coming across inspiring aviation images and the runways appear to have taken notice. The fiercely independent and pioneering aviator Amelia Earhart was the muse for each of Acne's collections for this season (men's, women's and precollections) and there is certainly an assured nonchalance showcased in the men's collection which is a nod to her style. Now I've not seen the recent film adaptation of her life directed by Mira Nair but I'd rather not think of Hilary Swank when I'm getting dressed because I just don't like her...but I might just steal her aviator. My irrational dislike for Swank aside, this 1920's tomboy and first female aviator was a woman with an extreme spirit of adventure pushing herself to the very limit in the process and has helped inspire a marvelous collection from Johansson and his team. There is a terrific balance between the masculine and feminine, heavy and light, soft and rigid. within Acne's Aw10 presentation. The real inspiration behind Acne's AW10 men's collection developed from one garment, the shearling flight jacket.

"For me when it comes to the men's style - I always find combining feminine elements with strong masculinity super interesting." Jonny Johansson.

The presentation showcases a play of proportion and shape, a combination of short and long, tight and loose. This contrast is something Johanson frequently play with but this season it is perhaps even more exaggerated. One of the best examples of this is the juxtaposition of the floaty, fluid flower print blouse with the strength of the ultra masculine aviator jacket. Over the last few months or so I have been eager to experiment with longer shirts and Acne's styling here is the final push needed. Why not team something so feminine with something truly masculine?

On parade, Burberry's impressive outerwear for AW10.

The real highlights from Milan to Stockholm have me reaching for an aviator. Burberry's Aw10 was a parade of coats. The outerwear not only saluted it's heritage but also paid homage to the role of military history for inspiring so many enduring coat styles, trenches, peacoats, officer coats, bombers and of course the aviator style was a real highlight. Looking at some of the shearling lined pieces in particular, I could not help but be reminded of James Long's designs for AW09. Furthermore, as with Acne for AW10, Long experimented with stolid traditional outerwear against languid organic pieces that cocooned the male form in luxe fabrics. It is time to look at the aviator in a new light, something tells me that my neck will soon be protected by shearling...

A close up of the Talasmanic Brotherhood...James Long AW09


Ernest B. said...

Amazing! I always love mixing feminine pieces with masculine pieces. True style knows no gender. Definitely going to experiment with different proportions like Acne. Thanks so much for the post. I'm now following you.

Ernest Bee.

Unknown said...

so nice...really.

iliketweet said...

Goodness me, I love the mixture of aviator stylee jackets and plain, yet still beautiful, pieces underneath.

Anonymous said...

hey - we need a breton jumper update as what you didn't reveal in your post was that susie bought the skull jumper - so you now have access to both. You should post the pic of you in it.


Plus Aviator is grand - especially when done with a twist. The only thing is the Burberry jackets look really heavy and that can be a barrier to how good they are. Mcqueen's clothes for last season were somewhat flawed by their weight - and I know people aren't supposed to care about such practicalities but it matters. And for proof just look at the clothes that don't sell at McQueen - leather trenches and massive heavy wool/leather combo jackets.

Anonymous said...

Mixing feminine pieces with masculine pieces works when you have a sport-fit-slim-square male body. When you have softer rounder shapes you can easily go wrong with the feminine pieces.
Aviator, there is nothing much more masculine, except garbage man style perhaps.


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