"It's more interesting to have just a picture of a small detail - then you can dream all the rest around it..."
Dries Van Noten
I fear that I'm becoming obsessed with fabric play at the moment. As I'm drunk on heady combinations, here's a closer look at the tweed sleeves on my Dries Van Noten jacket.
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Whilst my LFW show invitations were stuffed in an inadequately sized envelope, Dal Chodha opted for a quilted haven. The H by Harris Q1 Skin Diamond in blue served him well during Menswear Day.
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As Tommy Ton snapped away at the sartorial peacocks parading around Pitti Uomo, it was his own mix of print and textures that caught my eye. I love the mix of Patrik Ervell's braided horeshair strapped backpack and layering of his rose print jacket by Miharayasuhiro worn over a quilted jacket by Andrea Pompilio.
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The way in which sections of Tokyo enthuse over and embrace vintages, both in terms of a retail and consumer point of view, is very special indeed. This guy was head to toe in garments that were atleast one hundred years old and looked wonderfully fresh. Each item told its own story but I was particularly drawn to the long coat.
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Neoprene is such an intriguing fabric. Invented by DuPont scientists on April 17, 1930, Neoprene (thankyou wikipedia) is a family of synthetic rubbers that has a wide variety of applications, from wetsuits to orthopaedic braces. For AW12, Raimund Berthold follows in the footsteps of Christopher Bailey, Raf Simons and Italo Zucchelli in using this foamy wonder. Here, he models a sweatshirt and I was drawn to the silhouette of the cuff.
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A close look at the ring detail on the collar of a shirt by Whiz Ltd
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Entitled Paper Ink Poetry, Jie Liang's LCF MA collection explored paper theory and packaging shapes that provided the designer inspiration to further experiment with interfacing and surface textures. As well as playing with the shape of garments, the cutting and creasing techniques on show create an unexpected softness.
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Entitled Cirque D'Amen, Jennifer Franziska MacLennan Murray graduated from the LCF MA course with a collection that imagined Jesus as a ringmaster. Now, their Showtime imagery is well worth a look but I just wanted to share this little detail shot with you because I love the combination of gaudy and sombre.
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Having just returned from the launch of the SS12 edition of the b Store and Liberty collaboration, I thought I'd just post a sneak peek at the offering for AW12. Each season this creative coming together keeps pushing forward.
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Now, a full feature on J. Lindeberg's AW12 collection will follow but I just wanted to share one of my favourite details of the season thus far. Balancing the need for winter warmth and conserving its sleek silhouette, Jessy Heuvelink opted to layer quilted gilets over tailoring. Unexpected.
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On Sunday I snapped up the opportunity to visit Christopher O'Brien's studio as the young talent prepares his AW12 collection for the NEWGEN MEN and Fashion East Men Installations. Now, I'll soon post the 'Inspired' feature but I just wanted to offer this snapshot of the future. Here O'Brien updates his wrinkled heart.
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For AW12, Casely-Hayford have continued to grow their made in Britain offering which have provided some real gems of the collection. I'll return to the collection in much more detail later in the season but in the meantime but I just wanted to offer you this glimpse at the Donegal made jumper. The flecks of colour and knit variation combine so that the landscape and wool are entwined.
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Agi&Sam's very own Sam Cotton allowing one of the duo's colour popping prints to peek out underneath his jacket as he's wildly congratulated post MAN show.
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Junya Watanabe has long been known for his classic clothing with innovative and painstakingly brilliant detailing. The Army clip jacket from last season was one of the real highlights of the collection and sums up his aesthetic wonderfully. I couldn't resist taking a closer look when I spotted it on Menswear Day.
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This snapshot taken at Filippa K's AW12 presentation on the opening day of StockholmFashion Week back in February encapsulates the simplicity that is key to this Scandinavian fashion brands continued success. Less is more.
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A trio of colourful Hermes badges teamed up with a pair of striking pair of shorts from H&M in a particularly Hermes-esque hue of orange.
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The soon to be style stalked Harris Elliot was caught layering jackets and textures for the unpredictable season. With the addition of the Christopher Raeburn Parallel Parka, Elliot is ready for everything a great British Autumn can throw at him.
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Most of us have given up on a great British Summer but that shouldn't stop you injecting a little sunshine in to your daily wardrobe. On yet another unpredictable day of showers and blue skies, Andrew Chidgey did just that...
A spot of DIY. The addition of yellow leather elbow patches transform an old jacket.
A pair of classic Monkey boots with yellow laces and stitching.
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The Very Simon G sporting a waxed cotton shirt with zipped black circle detailing by Martin Rose.
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A finalist in Esquire and My Wardrobe's Britain's Best Dressed Real Man and Doherty Evans Stott's very own Matthew Evans sporting his own well tailored two piece.
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Shaka Maidoh was my vote for Britain's Best Dressed Real Man. Each outfit is packed full of details yet the ensemble on first appearance seems so effortless. Here's just a snapshot of him on the night he picked up his runner up prize.
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A closer look at Matthew Miller's take on the classic duffle coat as modelled by David Hopwood. The use of carabiners as fastenings is inspired. One of the jackets of the AW11 season and I'm kicking myself for not ordering one for myself.
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I'm an absolute sucker for polka dots. They never fail to draw me in but I particularly love this William Richard Green look.
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Tommy Ton and that Patrik Ervell backpack from SS11. Butter soft deerskin leather and braided horse hair straps ageing beautifully.
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Here's Daniel Jenkins wearing his heart on his sleeve, chest and back in a celebratory outfit of London designers for Menwsear Day. Polka dot shirt by Martine Rose, tuxedo trousers by Omar Kashoura and zip detailing jacket by Lou Dalton.
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There's no better ambassador for Mr Hare's shoes than the man himself. Here, he teams up his Hannibal XI Black's from his Idolescent collection with a pair of well but perfectly worn Levi's.
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Thus far, Autumn has delivered unpredictable days. Warm sunshine is followed by a chill and the odd downpour. The simple way to relieve sartorial frustration is layers. Here, J. Lindeberg's very own Sam Wilson layers tweed over wool and a crisp white cotton shirt.
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A closer look at one of my recent purchases. Henrik Vibskov reimagines a single breasted cotton blazer with the addition of high shine quilted fabric detailing and ribbed cuffs.
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One half of design duo Braille, Benjamin Vorono, wearing the label's much coveted contrast blazer.
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3939's Tatsuo Hino dresses for these unpredictable sunny Spring days extremely well and I particularly love his Indian scarf from Merci.
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Kronkron's very own Magni Thorsteinsson taking colour inspiration from the fruit bowl. Love the combination of orange and tangerine.
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My work buddy Andrew Chidgey (soon to be Style Stalked) sporting a stunning reversible coat by Casely-Hayford and a complimenting backpack.
Update: For those of you who'd like to see more shots of this look, you can over on our Facebook page.
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Update: For those of you who'd like to see more shots of this look, you can over on our Facebook page.
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Triple Major's very own Richie Chan wearing two pieces from Digest's SS11 collection.
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Why You Mad's very own Austin mixes Thom Browne tailoring with Timo Weiland printed shorts to add an element of surprise to his outfit.
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To help celebrate the weekend we couldn't resist posting this close up of Timo Weiland's polka dot tassel loafers by Vivienne Westwood. Polka Dot Gang for life.
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One of the Labrat team wearing the collection oh, so well. The combination of leather and distressed cotton caught my eye.
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The striding fox has been featured on the E. Tautz logo since its founding in 1876 and echoes the label's rich hunting and sportswear heritage. It was a familiar sight during my weekend in Paris as these fabulous silver pins were handed out to visitors at the London Showroom Men. Here, one member of the BFC team wears it very well indeed.
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Timo Weiland's very own Alan Eckstein teams up his own designed knitted waistcoast with a floral print shirt from Adam.
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Daniel Jenkins in Paris wearing a Sibling skull breton, &i houndstooth shorts, Seiko kinetic watch and two Links of London friendship bracelets that he pinched from his mate. One is a black and grey woven bracelet with little silver skulls and the other is woven with what he's decided to call silver dolly mixtures.
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Andrew Bunney wraps himself up in a vintage Vivienne Westwood scarf to add a splash of colour to his Menswear Day outfit.
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Camouflage by definition is a method of concealment but Nam's jacket from General Idea was one of many items of clothing on display at Pitti Uomo that deserved attention.
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One of The Contemporary Fix team inside the Tokyo Fashion Week area at Pitti Uomo wearing Facetasm. Dazzled by a white shirt thanks to the addition of embroidered colourful stars.
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