Details: A piece of Riot, Riot, Riot.

Images of Raf Simons AW 2001/2 collection taken from Raf Simons Redux.

On the twenty seventh of January two thousand and one, Raf Simons presented his Autumn/Winter 2001/2 collection in a vast derelict factory in Paris. Entitled Riot, Riot, Riot Simons presented forty four outfits to a soundtrack of Front 242, Aphex Twin and DJ Bountyhunter whilst taking inspiration from the Manic Street Preachers. It was a dark and important moment in menswear. Thanks to a visit to Strut Man on Stoke Newington Church Street (more on that tomorrow) I now own a piece of the collection. A well loved sweatshirt adorned with Christiane F imagery and the odd tear...

As we are continuously presented with a seemingly endless conveyor belt of all things new across the blogosphere and beyond, it is all too easy to overlook the past. We should always look back as well as forward.

Bass Weejuns and Matches

Bass Weejuns are a true icon of American footwear that have long attracted the obsessions of subcultures far and wide. For me, the mere mention of Weejuns conjures up images of Yale grads, seductive scenes of Americana, strutting suede-heads, white socks and Michael Jackson and real 'stars and stripes' great American craftsmanship. Despite feeling as American as apple pie, the classic loafer shape actually evolved from the choice footwear of Norwegian farmers after attracting the curiosity of Esquire magazine. The publication approached a Maine-based boot company by the name of G.H. Bass in the 30s to make a few pairs of the shoe for an article they were running on ‘winter resort style’ and the Weejun (derived from Norwegian) was born. The shoes became instant hits and have remained a popular choice for generations.

Unsurprisingly, the Weejun remains one of the Bass brand’s signature styles and has been part of every season’s collection for over seventy five years. The shoe has stockists far and wide but was recently picked up by Matches. The London retail institution have teamed up the GH Bass team to work on three tinkered Weejun styles. Just before the fruits of the collaboration landed in the capital and online, we caught up with Matches's Menswear buyer Stacey Smith and the G.H. Bass team before taking a closer look at the iridescent beauties...

The exclusive collection shimmering in my yard.

SS: How did this exclusive between the two of you arise, what was the catalyst and how did it evolve in to the collection we see today?

Stacey Smith: We’d been followers of G.H. Bass for some time and had long been aware of the richness of their heritage. We met at their showroom in New York earlier this year and it felt like the right time to work together on an offering. We wanted to provide a point of difference from their classic collection, so we started to look at how we could tinker with the Weejuns style, which we felt was the most instantly recognisable.

SS: What do the Weejuns mean to you? What images to they conjure up and why do you think they are so special?

SS: For me, Bass Weejuns conjure up images of iconic Americana – they were, after all, the loafers of choice for James Dean – yet they also feel indicative of such a raft of styles and movements since then. I suppose, as with all the best menswear, it’s just about a solid, well-made, elegantly designed product that can withstand the ebb and flow of trends.

G.H. BASS: Weejuns are an icon in American footwear. Inspired by a shoe found in Norway, what is now known as a classic “penny loafer”, the Weejun is one of the Bass brand’s signature styles and has been part of every season’s collection for over seventy five years. Bass Weejuns conjure up an image of American leisure going back to the 1940’s and 1950’s. A time when a pair of khakis  or a seersucker suit worn with a pair of Weejuns was a sophisticated and stylish look. It also conjures up an image of James Dean, with cuffed pants, white socks and a pair of Weejuns. These are special images because they work just as well today. As the world has changed and has become fast paced, electronic, and impersonal, the Weejun perseveres as a comforting fashion statement. An interesting point of trivia - in the 1940’s and 1950’s people began slipping dimes (the cost of a payphone call) into the slits on top of their Weejuns. In the 1960’s the hipsters of the day started using pennies as a matter of fashion, and it stuck, hence the name “penny loafer”!

SS: In the vein of the dimes and pennies of the 40s and 60s respectively to the tassel, these shoes have two-tone shades made with brush-off leathers for added impact to the finish. What attracted you to this finish?

SS: We always like to take a more playful approach towards menswear at Matches, and I loved the idea of putting a modern, poppy twist on such a classic piece. The brush-off technique gives the shoes a subtle iridescence that feels different but entirely credible.  I’m really thrilled with the result – they’ll sing out from a sea of black and brown shoes this winter.

SS: Craftsmanship plays a huge part in their appeal with their genuine moccasin construction quickly becoming synonymous with quality and durability. Could you talk us through the skill and workmanship that goes in these shoes?

GH BASS:  When GH Bass & Co. Weejuns were introduced in 1936, their genuine moccasin construction quickly became synonymous with quality and durability. Today that shoe making continues starting with the full grain leathers used in every pair allowing the shoes to conform to the foot like a hammock, creating a custom fit. The leather is stained and polished by hand to give a smooth and natural luster to the finish. Veteran craftsmen hand sew the leather uppers on the last creating  a “hand sewn” tru-moc construction. This is a highly skilled exercise which unfortunately is more often done by machine today as a cost saving measure. An open channel leather outsole with a rubber top lift on the heel completes the quality aspect.

SS: Finally, how would you like to see the collaboration grow?

SS: It’s been a real delight working on this debut offering – I’d hope that we’ll be able to continue to offer Bass Weejuns, subtly tweaked in our own way – watch this space for Spring Summer 2013!

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Having introduced the classic shoe and discussed the background of the collaboration between Matches and G.H. Bass, I think it's about time we tasted the iridescent fruits by taking a closer look at each style...

The exclusive collection will land in Matches over the next few weeks.

Casely-Hayford's Cultures In Between

Since the house's inception, Casely-Hayford have forged an eloquent handwriting of modern English style that has left the pulse of this blogger's eyes racing. The father and son design duo have carefully crafted a signature style of relaxed masculine proportions and exquisite tailoring, whilst fusing it with an injection of the raw energy of London's dynamic under belly that constantly inspires them both. Their's is an ever intriguing house that encourages change whilst being grounded in tradition. With each season, they explore, play and experiment with the duality of English Sartorialism and British Anarchy. With each season, the desire to own a Casely-Hayford dominated wardrobe grows. I had the good fortune of examining the AW12 collection up close back in February thanks to The Showroom Next Door and even though most events that occurred that far back have been long forgotten, memories of this collection have stayed with me. Months may have passed but my longing to touch the collection has never wavered. So, as it goes live on their site today and the products begin to find their way in a selection of the finest stores across the globe, I snapped up the opportunity to revisit the collection

For their previous Autumn/Winter collection they offered an eloquent summation of the previous five collections and signified a real statement of intent. The pair used the previous collections to individually explore key strands of the house DNA, from the luxury sportswear of SS09 to the Afropunk of SS10 and military detailing of AW10. Now, taking inspiration from the acclaimed Grayson Perry exhibition ‘The Tomb of the Unknown Craftsman’ that lit up London’s British Museum late last year, where ancient and modern artefacts were placed in unfamiliar territory, Casely-Hayford bring together signifiers from a range of British cultural symbols to create a cultural similitude. As Perry prompted the viewer to consider his curated artefacts in a new context, they offer a sartorial reality which is simultaneously old and new – it’s aim being to emphasise 'subcultures' which actively sought a minority style in an attempt to lay claim to an identity apart from the mainstream. For AW12, the sartorial alchemists draw influence from a series of British iconic signifiers associated with subcultures of the past, present and future. Parkas from 60’s Teddy boys, Biker jackets of the 70’s Punks, MA1’s from 80’s skinheads, Puffa Jackets from Manchester’s 90’s rave scene and bomber jackets from 00’s youth street culture have all been run through the Casely-Hayford design machinery for a unique reinterpretation.

The idea of cultural similitude is probably seen at its best in the style Biddick. Here, Casely-Hayford partner with English heritage brand Lavenham, makers of the original quilted paddock jacket, to introduce a great hybrid which merges this classic item of English country attire with the edge and rebellion of the leather sleeved bomber jacket. Elsewhere, the house continues to source and collaborate with a selection of the finest British manufacturers. From working with a small artisanal knitter based in the Donegal Mountains of Ireland by taking colour from the rugged Donegal landscape and knitted in authentic Aran Tweed to create ‘Thames’, an anglicised version of the familiar Varsity Jacket to the 'Viking' crew neck which streamlines traditional patchwork and cable designs to create a strong 21st century graphic statement through a sharp fusion of pattern and texture, these fair Isles are continuously celebrated.

Much as I excitedly bounced from rail to rail in the Showroom Next Door back in February, my eyes now dance from each look book shot. Below, a few of my favourite looks are accompanied by my own detail shots from London...

Throughout this considered collection, the sartorial alchemists that are Casely-Hayford offer a plethora of appealing and surprising proposals whilst cementing the House's ethos of 'Innovation through Tradition'. With a rich seam of ideas heavily based on English tradition, they simultaneously navigate unchartered territory by looking to the future, AW12 offers a new and relevant meaning to the signature Casely-Hayford handwriting.

Details... Collar of contrasts

With each passing season, Casely-Hayford continue to fuse sportswear and British tailoring to create an unwavering statement of modern British style. Here, the design duo reimagine the classic white shirt with the addition of a contrasting jersey collar. 

Style Stalking (Snapshot)... The Provoker

Yesterday saw a whole host of blogging talent drag suitcases and oversized shopping bags crammed full with potential bargains to our yard for a sale. With polite and orderly queues forming as early as 9:30, the pace was set and remained hectic throughout much of the day. From manning my trestle table to tending to the chicken satay, there was little opportunity for breathers but I couldn't resist style stalking one of my fellow market stallers, The Provoker (who was helping out Park&Cube). Clad in a heady mix of Tisci's rottweilers and Givenchy jewels, Celine sunglasses, a Proenza Schouler 'it bag', high street finds and Jeffrey Campbell statement creepers, the lovely Nathan deserved as much attention as the wares on Shini's table. Such an ensemble of fierce fashion isn't really conducive to shouts of "Roll up, roll up... two for a paaaaaaaound," but this was a very different market... 

Cab by Boutique, sunglasses by Celine, t shirt, necklace and earring by Givenchy, bracelets by Lanvin and Balenciaga (yard sale buys), Proenza Schouler PS11 bag, trousers from Zara, belt by Banana Republic and shoes by Jeffrey Campbell.
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Details... The much maligned pairing

Few pairings cause such revile than socks and sandals but it can be a happy marriage with the right match up.

A visit to... A. Sauvage

Cast your minds back to the busy month of May 2010, what were you doing? Well, I was zigzagging my way across the capital for various press days and viewings to help see what AW10 would bring and encountered A. Sauvage. For those of you with short memories, the label is the brainchild of Adrien Victor Sauvage who, whilst working as a creative, realised that the stylish demands of his clients were not being met so set about meeting them with his own designs. The debut collection entitled 000-1 -000-11 showcased both radical and elegant menswear, each garment had traditional details and progressive cuts based in cashmere, flannel, mohair, micro cord and worsted wool that utilised a modern palette. Since I first made his acquaintance, I've kept an interested eye on the development of the brand and it has slowly evolved. 

Two years on since its inception, the label has amassed a cult following thanks largely to Sauvage's 'Natives and Captains' series of photography, recently opened its own store on Maddox Street, developed an ever growing offering and collaborated with Dr. Martens. Not bad at all for an emerging label. As A. Sauvage's route could be considered as being atypical, we caught up with the designer at his Mayfair retail base to hear all about its path and to see the first drops of AW12.

"The last couple of years have been a roller coaster. A. Sauvage started from an idea borne out of talking to a few people when I was working in the industry, I made a collection and showed it to the buyers of Harrods and it was snapped up straight off of the rail. Then the realisation came that I had to produce it but I didn't have a factory and at that stage nobody really knew who I was. it was a real learning process. It was then that I started playing around with photography. I went on a trip to LA playing basketball in Venice beach and I met so many interesting people and asked them to model the collection. Shooting that and returning to London, it received a lot of attention and helped establish the lifestyle angle of the label. It was a different approach because we were more interested in dressing people that wouldn't ordinarily wear suits. It was all about showing men different lapel and cloth option and various separates. It then began to evolve in to the next stage of D.E. because I wanted to add a more casual element and offer a fuller collection. I went back to Ghana to visit my parents who had moved back there and I thought it would be interesting to weave something out of the traditional fabric in to a more western feel. Then again, instead of using models, I wanted to shoot friends, family and people off of the street in the designs. It was a really interesting trip for me because I hadn't been back for eleven years and it had changed so much. The reaction to that collection has been great, we've built a cult following really. The brand has been really personal to me, I've been releasing little bits of the tale gradually."

Before I take you all on a tour of the store and offer a close look at AW12, I think it apt to remind you of a few highlights from Sauvage's series of photographs.  In each case, the designer invited subjects to wear garments from his collections and encouraged them to express who they are whilst wearing each piece with no directorial interference. The result is an exploration of individualism...

A selection of Captains and Natives donning A.Sauvage. All images by Adrien Sauvage.

"I designed the Autumn/Winter 12 range, took some time off and went to New York and it was there that I got the idea of shooting some rappers in the collection. Whilst over there looking for rappers, I got a phone call to say that Mos Def was in the store. It was crazy. He had a couple of made to measure suits made up, one of which was for Nelson Mandela's ninety fourth birthday. It was so surreal. I was blown away by the pace of New York, everything happens so fast over there. I'm going to shoot some B-Ballers in a street story for American GQ soon and gained even more confidence to push on with growing my offering for women."

These are undoubtedly exciting times for the house of A. Sauvage. Over the last twenty four months, the label has carved out its own path to success thanks largely to Sauvage's obvious passion and drive. Today he stands in his Maddox Street space, a mix of enthusiasm, pride, relief and surprise...

"It is not normal for an emerging label to have its own store but for us it made sense. We came at it from a different angle to most. The Maddox Street store grew out of the fact that we had a growing number of clients visiting us at our old studio so it made sense to have a retail space and it has been great. It feels really real now, it is a house and everything is here."

If you're yet to visit A.Sauvage on Maddox Street, take my hand and allow me to take you on a visual tour of the the ever evolving store...

The space changes regularly and I was fortunate to see the first drops of the new season including a look at the fruits of A.Sauvage's collaboration with Dr. Martens.
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A. Sauvage's path may have been unpredictable and atypical when compared to most emerging brands but there can be little doubt that it has arrived.