With so much focus and attention diverted to the future in fashion it is easy to forget which season it actually is. Now, my mind is a little over stimulated with all of the AW10 look books and Press Day visits so as it is Friday afternoon lets step away from gazing in to our style crystal balls and savour the moment, the emergence of now, of Spring. Yet another discovery from Hong Kong (sorry to keep mentioning the trip) illustrates this desire perfectly...
As mentioned previously, shopping is an important facet of everyday life here and practically everyone indulges in a bit of consumerism on a daily basis. During my last trip back in November I enjoyed in a spot of window shopping and brand discovery at Joyce, this time round it was Lane Crawford. In addition to marveling at Kim Jones' pop up store (as described below) I was impressed by the array of design talent stocked for SS10 and even more so by the department stores in house magazine The Portfolio. The highlight of which was the Midsummer Odyssey editorial which demonstrated all of the key season trends in an utterly beautiful way. In fact, I'm hard pushed to think of a stronger spread in any of my favourite magazines!
Desert Storm. Acne shirt, Rag & Bone tee, Wings & Horn trousers, Burberry Prorsum bag and bracelet and Cole Haan shoes.
The Porfolio showcases the apparent scaling back on previous seasons as showcased in the SS10 shows. The structured tailoring excess of the last season were forgotten. SS10 was littered with understated looks consisting of wardrobe staples that can travel confidently from work days and weekends alike. Casual wear came in a vibrant variety of wardrobe essentials that included tribal print designs, paint splashed pieces, military inspired separates and feather light knitwear. Delicately rendered cardigans, soft summer trench coats, feather light knitwear and trousers that drape slightly at the hem exude a restrained sense of luxury.
I just wish this could be my Spring/Summer uniform. Yves Saint Lauren cardigan, Rag & Bone tee, 3. Phillip Lim trousers and Pierre Hardy sandals.
There was certainly an Eastern promise feel to a number of key collections. Tribal patterns, graphic motifs and patchwork designs formed a colourful explosion of prints on the runway. Drawing inspiration from the Orient and North Africa, designers such as Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent and Balenciaga ro name but a few, successfully delivered a rich and expressive range of textiles that are ideal for the months ahead.
Richardo Tisci in particular created a collection full of ethnic impressions at Givenchy. The collection saw a refreshing mix of formal tailoring and punk attitude, an aggressive army of sportswear shapes and codes reinvented in tartan, middle-eastern prints and monochrome jerseys. As with a number of other shows, classics were modified for the utility requirements of the new season. A variety of military inspired jackets with zip detailing, garments with multiple pockets and practical accesories including backpacks and stylish holdalls.
Utility and sportswear. Ralph Lauren vest, Diet Butcher slim skin jacket, White montaineering trousers, Givenchy shoes and backpack.
One of my favourite aspects of the SS10 shows was the sense that sartorial elegance took on a different interpretation as meticulous and architectural tailoring gave way to a more relaxed silhouette. The overall attitude for the warmer months is one of effortlessness and nonchalance. Designers inclusing Yves Saint Laurent, Lanvin and Alexander McQueen all unveiled collections of subtly draped jackets and relaxed tailored pieces.
One of my favourite looks from the spread. Acne jacket, Alexander McQueen shirt, Armani Collezioni trousers and Raf Simons belt.
As the sun becomes a more constant feature in the sky above I think it is time we all reminded ourselves of the diversity of styles from this current season. Right from the understated soft tailoring and functional utililitarianism, to the vibrancy of ethnic influences and the modern artisans, it is time we dress for the now.