Rediscovering Kenzo for AW10

Kenzo AW10, the scene outside the show in Paris.

The first round of press days (more to come later this week and next) saw me zig zag my way across the capital and as well as giving my Kudu brogued boots yet another beating the day was full of AW10 recaps and interesting discoveries (which all will be revealed over the course of the next week or two). As soon as Pitti Uomo opened the 2010 fashion agenda back in mid January, the shows came thick and fast and it all became a little too much for even this dedicated follower of fashion and style hungry blogger. During Fashion Month it is quite easy to let an amazing collection slip right by your tired eyes and wanting fingertips. One such missed sartorial treat was Kenzo...

Since his appointment in 2003, Antonio Marras has developed collections naturally akin to the Kenzo spirit, creating a rich, poetic world from a diversity of influences: a fusion of fashion and art. Kenzo has always been a label with distinct personality, primarily the mixing of different cultures. Given full artistic direction on all aspects of the brand, adding childrenswear, homeware, accessories and menswear to his previous output, Marras has firmly taken hold of Kenzo and molded it in his own vision. His personality and talent have infused a new vitality into this much loved but (in my case atleast) often overlooked brand. Brands such as this have to offer a vision, a universe, and a signature and Marras has delivered once again with this collection...

For Aw10, Marras focused the AW10 collection around fabrics and prints as he looked fondly back at generations gone by. Tweed, houndstooth, muted plaid, floral and leopard prints all came together quite wonderfully to create. a texture rich offering that appealed to my mix and match sensibility. There's a great deal of emphasis on decorative layering and the the dusty, muted colour pallet added a certain intellectual feel to the offering. I just lapped it all up and it left me scratching my head as to how I over looked it all during my catwalk stalking of Paris. As I rummaged through the texture filled racks I began to grumble that the days were getting longer and confessed that I was beginning to miss those damp, grey skies because these designs inspired me to perfect the art of Autumn layering.

The AW10 Kenzo mood board courtesy of Another.

Since I discovering the collection I just had to research it that bit more and where better to look than Another? I really enjoyed their First Look series of entries before, during and soon after fashion month. The glimpses at some of my favourite labels mood boards and reading about their inspirations, wants and desires really helped see the collections in a new, brighter and altogether more agreeable light. Now that I've found it, Kenzo's entry is one of my favourites....

"For this collection I wanted to create a mix between the French look of Monsieur Hulot, a character created and played by filmmaker Jaques Tati, and the British film Quadrophenia" Antonio Marras speaking to Another.

Backstage show images courtesy of Dazed Digital.

For Marras, the Jacques Tati creation of Monsieur Hulot has such a unique body language and silhouette. The character would wear his raincoat over his slightly too short trousers. His props of hat, pipe and umbrella combined to exaggerate his famous lurching walk. "It's his unconscious anarchy that fascinates me; his eccentricity; his joy and his freedom, which makes him whistle in the street" remarks Marras.

Backstage show image courtesy of Dazed Digital.

The proportions in the collection were exaggerated to accentuate the playful nature of his way of dressing: large, short trousers that show off marching socks, with slightly too tight jackets and short-sleeved shirts which reveal printed gloves. It was Marras' way of twisting the codes of elegance. Style is also about attitude and Quadrophenia inspired the dark side of the collection, giving it a more aggressive look. It added a rebel touch to a classical wardrobe.

Backstage show images courtesy of Dazed Digital.

Kenzo has had strong values and a certain sense of heritage ever since it was set up by Kenzo Takada in 1970. Now it is Marras' turn with the house and he is undoubtedly taking it forward. It won't be overlooked by me next season in Paris...in fact, I'm already looking forward to the show.