For AW11, Xavier Brisoux explores the myriad of varitations of a single shape. This playful process on form is completed by a more graphic feature of uneven striping. These “messed” lines are mismatching thanks to a technical knitting process called “partial knitting”. For Brisoux, this is a reminder of the eye hurtingly repetitive but oddly beautiful, lines of binary code. In computing and telecommunication, these numerical codes are used for any of a variety of methods of encoding data, such as character strings, into bit strings and here it is used for knitting technique. The designer has in fact worked very much like a programmer who has only a few “words” to tell his story, but therefore has an endless world to create thanks to the different combination of these few elements. For this season, the designer has introduced new tones of blues, blueberry, and pinks alongside his usual and much favoured hues of grey. Variations on colours are expressed through a very soft virgin wool and luxurious cashmere.
Look book photography by Mathieu Drouet
Xavier Brisoux is a label that explores the possibilities of knitwear to the fullest. For this Central Saint Martins graduate knitwear is not seen as a lesser part of a larger collection but rather, it is central to his experiments in creating a new way of envisioning men's fashion. Art and mythical stories entwine in his knitwear. Brisoux professes that a collection is at its best when it tells a story but there is a fundamental need that the garments remain wearable. For AW11, he certainly excels in both once again.
The brand is currently sold in a few select stores in Paris and Tokyo but most excitingly, from this month, Xavier Brisoux will be part of Topshop's “EMERGE” corner in its London flagship store in Oxford Circus.