A wardrobe staple reimagined...

After a quiet weekend enjoying the sunshine by the coast I have spent the morning procrastinating slightly by catching up on all of the things I've missed on the t'internet. After a few quick scans of my favourite sites and blogs I was stopped in my tracks by a post on Fashion156's daily blog. Images from the T-Shirt Issue project made me do a double take at the screen as I saw one of my favourite wardrobe staples transformed in to art. For the T-Shirt Issue, Berlin based Linda Kostowski and Mashallah Design experimented and manipulated grey jersey sweatshirts to create three digital portraits.

I am a devoted, borderline obsessive, disciple of grey jersey but I have never seen this comfortable, safe and reliable staple used in such an architectural and imagination capturing way before. Regular readers will know that I am a huge fan of Aitor Throup and this project certainly bears some resemblance to his design process. Here, three people are portrayed digitally by scanning their bodies to create a 3D file, which resolution is defined by the number of polygons depicted. The 3D data is turned into 2D sewing patterns by the use of the unfolding function (a common tool in industrial design process to make paper models with) with the help of a laser cutter. Making a clothes pattern in this way changes the aesthetics of the garment fundamentally and frees the designers imagination. A little research has shown that this project was shown at Create Berlin in September 2008 which I missed out on but it is currently on show in California at WoW. Below is a closer look at the designs along with quotes from the individuals involved...

Linda..

"She changed my life from the first moment I was fitting her, when she slipped through my drapery purring. The sounds she made, unerring and self-confident. She fills my design with ease, making me believe in her more then ever."

Markus...

"After hearing a story about a boy brought up by a wolf i wanted this more than anything else. The wolf would have accompanied my nocturnal wanderings, would have eagerly shared my reconnaissances and sometimes my thunderous sighs."

Paul...
"When I was small and just about to learn swimming I was petrified that my swimmies would leak. I squeezed them constantly to check the air level. Surprisingly the swimmies had a different effect outside the water, they gave me tremendous self assurance. In default of that I just left them on all the time."

Unfamiliar Vintage: A look at Garbstore

A look at Garbstore's AW09 offering, image courtesy of Dazed Digital.

Having founded One True Saxon, and helmed R. Newbold and Red Ear in the Paul Smith empire, Ian Paley’s reputation speaks for itself. His most recent venture, Garbstore enters its second year with the unveiling of 'General Public' for AW09. Now, I have heard a number of positive whisperings about the label but have not yet visited the store or really investigated the label at all aside from the odd forgotten mental note. Having seen the images for the latest collection over on Dazed Digital I have to plan a little trip to Portobello and will certainly not forget this label anytime soon!

Garbstore aspires to be and draws its influence from what they have coined 'Unfamiliar Vintage'. The brand aims to create familiar garments, not outlandish pieces, garments with a foot in the past and look to the future, nodding at a couple of things along the way. "The whole idea is to recreate that idea of dead-stock altogether.” For their fifth own-brand Garbstore collection, they pay tribute to those that take pride in helping one's community, hence the name 'General Public'.

Garbstore's use of original fabrics, US talon zips, five needle double neck tees, three hole button detailing and plantation Indigo denim pays homage to the craftsmanship tailoring of days gone by and this has to be applauded. I will leave you to marvel over the look book images for SS09 which I have only just stumbled across following a little label research.

Picture Postcard: Smartening Up

Dearest EJ

Before I escape the hot, humid, hustle and bustle of London for yet another quiet weekend by the seaside, I have a confession. Over the course of the last few months, I've been throwing together increasingly casual ensembles for work. As you know, my office has one of the most laissez faire attitudes to work attire possible. As long as we are not meeting clients we can where practically anything we desire (flips flops, vest tops...pretty much everything that should be discouraged during the warmer months are more or less encouraged in my work environment. Disclaimer: I do not wear either of these examples. Thank you). Today, from the bottom up, I am wearing, grey jersey boat shoes, drop crotch grey wrap trousers, a basic tshirt with a thin business veneer offered by my CdG jacket. In short I look ready for vegging out on the sofa as opposed to work. Earlier this year you talked about personal uniforms and I confessed that the informal work environment had a strange affect on my Monday to Friday attire. Now, after a few more months it has gone further. I find myself dressing smarter outside of work than I do inside it...which is most strange and something I feel I need to change.

I stumbled across the above chap over on The Sartorialist and my brain is urging me to adopt a similar basic uniform for work. Scott 'pretty good at the sex' Schuman loves the simple colour story of navy, tan and brown and I have to agree with him and feel the relaxed yet tidy tailoring and cut will suit my everyday work environment. The above shot appears simple at first but the more I look at it the more I see and want...the brogues, glasses and watch all catching my consumer eye. I certainly need to address the strange imbalance between the casual and formal elements of my workday outfits and will keep you informed of my progress.

Have a lovely weekend!

Steve

Thomas Crown is a British Tailoring Affair

"The film remains one of the most empowering intersections between masculinity and sartorial expression ever captured by the camera's lens." Wei Koh for the The Rake.

I've been suffering from the most serious form of 'man flu' and in typical, gender form have spent the last week or so moaning to anyone and everyone who would listen, well when I've had the energy to. In amongst all the grumbling, I've slept a great deal and watched a fair bit of daytime TV. Thankfully the odd movie or two breaks up the terrible daytime offerings, otherwise I might have lost my mind by now. I was able to watch a film I've been meaning to for some time, The Thomas Crown Affair. The 1968 original of course, not the 1999 Pierce Brosnan remake.

Steve McQueen's magnificent wardrobe stole the show the 1968 heist film. Few leading men have looked so well tailored as McQueen did in his role as the high-class jewelery thief. It is little surprise then that the likes of Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Timothy Everest and Ozwald Boateng all regard it as one of the most influential moments in men's style. Of course, the film has its critics, even in 1968, audiences realised it was a film of style over substance, but there is nothing wrong with that now, is there? There is plenty of eye candy what with Ferrari GT 250s, Rolls Royces, Faye Dunaway's thirty one costume changes and of course, McQueen's wonderfully British tailored splendour. The Thomas Crown Affair is something of a catalogue of '60s conventions, from its clipped editing style to its photographic trickery, to its mod design, the decades stlye oozes out from every pore.

It was up to British tailoring legend Doug Hayward, the man responsible for Michael Caine's super lean suits in The Italian Job, to outfit McQueen in this marvellous array of suits. The suits are perfectly representative of classic British tailoring. There are of course classic three piece suits, waistcoats without lapels, two button coats with well-suppressed waist, a gold Patek Philippe pocket watch and a wealth of other sartorial perfections. Every detail of McQueen's dress is executed with perfect sartorial precision and it certainly eased my aches and pains whilst watching it. As I return to the sofa feeling sorry for myself, I will leave you with the original trailer to enjoy...

The comeback we've been waiting for: +J

Simplicity itself, showcased in the minimalism of Sander's white shirt and the sans serif collaborative label.

Thankfully the post doesn't relate to Rocky Balboa II, I mean Rocky VII or Terminator: The Return of Salvation. Sylvester Stallone and Governor Arnie have no plans to haul their ageing asses back in front of the camera for one more fight. I am of course talking about the return of Jil Sander to a High Street near you, thanks to Uniqlo. Uniqlo is still far ahead of their high street opposition who must be turning a little grey and balding by now, what with all that head scratching and hair pulling, at how the Japanese retail powerhouse continues to deliver on style, quality and of course price. Tempting Jil Sander out of retirement to make her fashion comeback with a collaboration with the chain is almost typical for Uniqlo. The more I thought about this collaboration, the more it made sense; the Uniqlo style aesthetic is not a million miles away from the mistress of minimalism but the retail giant will no doubt turn Sander's minimalism in to one for the masses. Of course, news of this collaboration broke months ago now and I've been excitedly tapping on my keyboard waiting to catch a glimpse of the first few designs. Thanks to the always quick off the mark chaps at hypebeast, the wait is over...

The collaboration marks Sander's long-awaited return to the fashion world. It has been over five years since she left her namesake house after clashing with the brand’s then-owner, Prada Group. Although Raf Simons has done a marvellous job at Jil Sander following her departure, I am pleased to see her return to the fashion fold. As for this sneak preview of the collection, the simple sans serif label says it all: “Basics are the common language. The future is here: +J,” the tag reads. I am suffering from the worst bout of man flu I've ever known but the below two images have worked miracles. I can out down the cup of Lemsip and electronic thermometer and let the aesthetic beauty of the jacket clear my aches and pains!

For those of you eager to get your mitts on the collection, thankfully we won't have to wait too much longer. The September issue of Vogue forecasts the first pieces are said to be hitting stores (including online as well) in October, and as prices start at £15 I have to confess to being more than a little excited and interested. The initial collection will comprise of a total of one hundred and forty pieces, of course the ladies will get the bulk of it but there will be more than enough for us to fight over with forty pieces for men.

Almost Bespoken For

My desire to own bespoke clothing is well documented on the blog. In a previous post I shared my statement of intent of entering the bespoke world; "In two years or so I want to walk away from Savile Row after my final fitting knowing that my suit is almost ready for me..." I have dedicated various posts to this beautiful craft and my dedicated savings fund has been progressing (slowly but for the most part in the right direction) but despite my admiration towards the fine fellows of Savile Row I've felt I wasn't quite ready to enter their world. I am almost there and have spent the last few years excitedly waiting and reading up on the subject. What is obvious to me is that a lot of people use the terms "bespoke" and "made-to-measure" interchangeably. They are mistaken. In seventeenth century England, 'bespoke' was a term for tailored clothing made at a customer's behest, with the customer's surname written on the actual fabric, hence the fabric 'was spoken for'. Hence a tailor who makes your clothes individually, to your specific personal requirements, is called 'bespoke'. For those of you who like me, aren't quite ready for bespoke, one new label might be of interest...step forward Bespoken...

Bespoken AW09

Under the tutelage of Turnbull & Asser, Bespoken was born not to make made-to-measure clothes tailored to the individual but to honour the heritage of tailoring traditions, paying great attention to fabrics, details and applying those traditions to a modern fit and contemporary styling. Turnbell & Asser is old school and has maintained a loyal following and discrete growth. In fact, T&A have supplied the shirts to James Bond, to whoever might be playing our favourite womanising spy. Production has remained British. The bespoke shirts are still made in Jermyn Street and ready to wear is manufactured in Gloucester. T&A brothers, James, Sam and Liam Fayed partnered with family friends Paulo and Carlos Goncalves to create Bespoken, a line of blazers, shirts and knits which offer a fresh take on historic luxury. "A young, scruffy haired lad who may enjoy a whisky and believes in classics of quality and style" Sam fayed. "This is what the son of a Turnbull & Asser customer would wear." (Oh, If only I were the son of a T&A customer...just think of the shirts I could inherit!)

Bespoken AW09

Bespoken's signature look consists of classic shirts and jackets with a twist. The blazers are shorter and more form fitting, with a subtle red detail on every collar and lapel. The shirts, too, are fitted and mod influenced, with wrap around collars. Everything is handmade and in a limited edition, embroidered with a number from 1 to 100. "The autumn/winter '09 collection draws inspiration from the post-war fashion movement in Britain that occurred after the '50s," explains Sammy, the collection's main designer. "The pieces are more functional and utilitarian and are made from more textured and raw fabrics. The likes of Ian Curtis, Factory Records and northern England are some of the influential images that inspired the story behind this collection."

Bespoken AW09

The result is an increased relevance and a nod to the brand's adaptability. This new collection is markedly different from previous designs, but remains cohesive and continuous with Bespoken's sophisticated aesthetic. The offspring of Turnbull & Asser have carried the torch, and made classic English traditionalism into something interesting, fresh and new...all things I'm certainly ready for right now, whilst I'm waiting for the bespoke fund to reach the required level...

Bespoken white shirt worn with cardigan by Omar Kashoura, trousers by Ted Baker, socks from Uniqlo and black suede and leather lace ups by b store.

Style Salvage Speaks to... Harris Elliott

After completing a degree in Interior Architecture and Design, Harris Elliott established himself as a leading stylist in fashion and music. Thankfully for us Harris shifted his immediate attention from the likes of Mark Ronson and turned to luggage design. The personal need to find a stylish yet practical laptop case evolved into a thoroughly modern, yet understated luxury luggage brand which is designed and manufactured in the UK. The debut H by Harris collection comprises of two lines, the Q hand quilted nappa leather and the SH wax hide leather collection. Styles include rucksacks, totes, weekend bags, satchels and laptop skins and of course the H jacket which Steve has been drooling over ever since he first saw it on Style Bubble. We caught up with Harris to talk about how the brand evolved from a laptop case, the collaboration with bstore and wanting to dress Obama in Casely-Hayford... imagine that for a few moments and then continue reading...

Style Salvage: We recently read that the need for a new laptop case inspired the label. After this need was satisfied how did the rest of the collection develop?
Harris Elliott: After I designed the Q1 Skin I observed that people stuff their laptops in regular rucksacks and bags. So I figured there was a need for bigger bags for people to put their laptops in. Ivan the buyer at Browns said to me that their customers always needed weekend bags, so I extended the shapes and the whole collection came to life.

SS: Talk us through the different elements of the collection and what inspired them.
HE: The two main elements are quilting- the Q range, in soft nappa and nubuck. My inspiration was the need for something soft but protective, handmade quilting was the obvious choice. For the Sh range, I took reference from a military tunic for the large pocket details, these are made in nubuck and hide. Generally the market has been over saturated with bags that are over embellished with zips and bits, I have designed a collection that is big on form low on unnecessary detailing, simple to look at, luxurious to touch.

SS: How did the collaboration with bstore come about? Who would you love to collaborate with in the future?
HE: I went to see Matthew and Kirk at 'B' for advice on how to go about collaborating with designers. They asked if I would collaborate with them, I thought they were joking as they often do, but they were deadly serious. We sketched designs separately, met in the middle and took the best of each others designs. I would love to collaborate with Neil Barrett, Junya and Hussein Chalayan.

SS: What was the first and last item you remember designing?
EH: The first thing I designed was a t-shirt at school with the logo for the band 5Star printed on it, they were my favourite group back then. The last thing was a bespoke vanity case I'm planning for AW10.

SS: In recent years there has undoubtedly been an increased interest and demand for bags in men's fashion. Do you, like us, cringe at the terms bandied about in the press though, for example murse, manbag etc? How do you feel about the increase in public interest that caused the creation of these terms?
HE: My favourite term was coined by the stylist Jason Hughes, the mlutch - man clutch. In general it's all media spin for journalists who have nothing better to write, just a bit of fun really.

SS: As a stylist you have worked with high profile personalities like Mark Ronson, Kelly Rowland, Nike and French Connection. If you could dress anyone, who would it be and what would you put them in?
HE: It would have to be the Queen and Barack Obama. Elizabeth Regina I would dress in Boudicca, and Obama in Casely-Hayford and Spencer Hart. And coming back to earth I would love to work with Vincent Cassel and Natalie Portman.

SS: What item of clothing (if any) do you wish that more men wore?
HE: Plus fours; Tintin had the look sewn up, and Christopher Nemeth produced the best version of these back in the day.

SS: How would you describe your own personal style?
HE: Unrefined with layers and with the occasional bright moments.

SS: What bag did you carry with you today? What was inside it?
HE: Carrying two bags today my Q3 Rucksack and SH2 Shopper, as always filled with a week's worth of useless stuff that never gets looked at day to day.

SS: If you could go back in time and experience any fashion moment, what would it be?
HE: Have to be turn of last century where you would wear formal clothes even if you were cleaning the streets.

SS: Where do you see yourself in 10 years?
HE: I would like to follow in the footsteps of Thomas Heatherwick, Marc Newson and Philipe Starck designing anything from bags to furniture to architecture.

SS: Have you got any recommendation that you'd like to share with our readers? (shops, hairdressers, designers, websites, bars)
HE: Favourite cafe has to be Royal Teas in Greenwich. I never cut my hair but the best locksmith (dreadlocks that is) is Don Abaka in Kennington. Instead of going to a bar get your own beer and cake, my own concoction and sit in a park drinking and eating with friends. Best shop is DA Binder for old school shop fittings. The Adam Kimmel Claremont video has to be seen!

Picture Postcard: The Fantastic Mr Steve

Now, I've always been a little jealous (and sometimes a little weirded out) by the number of talented illustrators who take inspiration from Susie's style outfits. Seeing my girlfriend as a piece of art always provokes a mixture of odd feelings but I have to confess that there has always been a part of me which longed to be captured in a similar way. I never thought it would ever happen though! So, imagine my surprise when I visited our latest blogger follower, one talented Lauren Gentry. Lauren is an Illustration student currently studying at Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art in Dundee and has an extremely pretty blog which showcases her artwork. As I trawled through her work I recognised my Unconditional wrap trousers and then I noticed the Yokoo cowl... it was me... well, a variation of me... where my pudgy cheeked face had thankfully been replaced by the head of a fantastic fox. In fact, from now on I'd like to be referred to as the Fantastic Mr Steve or at the very least would like to see Wes Anderson accessorise his interpretation of the Roald Dahl classic with Yokoo knits. I have to thank Lauren for making my week, I am going to sleep now with a huge smile on my face.

Love this. I'm crazy jealous now! May have to see if she'll do me a print to add to the collection. She's even got your slouch right!

PETROU/MAN SS10

The launch of PETROU\MAN deservedly received a fair bit of blog love (with Filep Motwary first out of the blocks) as folks were all excited to see the Cypriot designer turn his hand to menswear for SS10. The fanciful images he created for the look book which aim to represent elements of everyday life certainly capture the eye and the imagination. Inspired by men's active sportswear, the debut offering is a mix of patterns, mesh and is a reinterpretation of classic jackets and shirts. Nicolas Petrou is an MA graduate from CSM who has been occupying his time in New York working for a number of design companies including his own (PETROU). I jumped at the chance to catch up with the designer for a DazedDigital piece. As part of the interview I spoke to Nicolas about being inspired by Geoffrey Beene, living and loving New York, wanting to dress Olivier Theyskiens and being an excellent host. The full interview can be read over on Dazed but below are a few of my favourite questions and answers along with a few unseen look book illustrations...

Describe the collection in your own words
Nicolas Petrou: The inspiration for this collection started from an illustration by Sirichai done for Geoffrey Beene in 2001. Then I looked into men’s active sportswear and what they achieve with the cut, the fabric and the design. And of course all those creatures of the night that always strive to present something new and different. I combined all these elements into the classics that men wear today and developed a collection that is focused and complete. There are mesh inserts in the sleeves of jackets for better movement, the fit is closer to the body but yet relaxed, the lengths are shorter than those of classic jackets and shirts… It is a younger look in general for all the guys that do not want to look like their fathers when wearing a suit.

Talk us through the illustrations accompanying the look book...
Nicolas Petrou: The illustrations are based on our everyday life situations and are created from events that are happening around the world at the moment. I wanted to create an environment for the PETROU\MAN that exists today but is more abstract and creative. The destruction of the world, science, genetics, war, politics and what is generally on our mind in these times we live in. Everything was done with no budget; I shot the collection on a friend and created all the images on photoshop with my genius assistant Soteris Kallis. It was fun and exciting to see the result and the amazing reviews from different people.

Carolyn Massey SS10 Accessories

A few weeks back now we were fortunate enough to take a sneak peak in to the future as Carolyn Massey let us nosey around her studio whilst drooling over her SS10 collection. Carolyn was inspired by adventure and exploration and this is no more apparent than in the accessories. The talented guys from across the pond at Street Etiqutte recently dropped a nice piece on the necessity of accessories and they certainly are in this collection. Carolyn told us that she had been inspired by her first showing at LFW back in February and expanded her collection, in terms of tshirts as well as additional accessories, for this coming season as a result. As a follow up to the earlier sneak preview post, Carolyn sent through an accessories look book which we had to share with you. Looking through the look book made me dream up expeditions to far away places which certainly beats a grey, Wednesday afternoon in London...

The accessories go so well with the inspiration for the collection, the film the Heroes of Telemark. The film starts Kirk Douglas and Richard Harris and is based on the true story of Norwegian heavy water sabotage in World War two. Carolyn had also been on a camping trip to Dungeness, where she found the experience useful as she was able to realistically think about when and where these garments and accessories could be worn.

I fell head over heels for the chunky, cable knits in Massey's Aw09 collection and the above table of bold blue knitted creations renewed my love. Carolyn once again worked closely with her knitwear consultant Lynn to create these pieces which looked to be inspired by fishermen and explorers.

The braided pieces are based on 'Troddels'. These were traditionally used by the German army (post war) to place with precision the exact whereabouts of soldiers in particular regiments. Also the Japanese craft of Kumihimo was an inspiration for the braiding which featured in the key rings, troddels and belts.

I must confess to being more than a little surprised by the leather spats. So much so in fact that I have only just noticed that I failed to mention them in the first post. I just didn't expect to see them but of course they make perfect sense given the inspiration and collection as a whole. The time is definitely right to bring back spats! I love the amount of thought and attention to detail Carolyn has put in to this collection and can't wait to (hopefully) see it on the catwalk in September.

My eyes lie

I am under constant threat of Susie raiding my wardrobe in the morning and supplementing her outfit with one or a number of my items. It is extremely rare that I get the chance of some pay back but last week I discovered a new, cotton grey jersey sweatshirt and I have to confess that I’ve stolen it for myself. The black hole top is a recent find from Your Eyes Lie, a London-based artist collective whose identity is anchored in their use of bold statements and graphics on the classic white tee. The sweatshirt comes in the softest grey jersey and it is really hard not to spend the day stroking myself in some demonstration of childish abandon...

Outfit rundown: Sweat shirt from Your Eyes Lie, Unconditional drop crotch trousers, hi tops by Lanvin, glasses by Bruno Chaussignand. The jacket in the top pic is from APC.

Regular readers will know that I rarely post outfit shots anymore. The reasons being... firstly because there are better blogs doing more interesting things than I in the style stakes on a consistent basis (The Cablog, The Dandy Project and Tales of Frederic instantly spring to mind)... secondly, we've always wanted the blog to be more of a discussion and lastly...I just can't pose! The last reason is the all conquering one. If I could pose, the blog would be littered with entries of me in various shots. Fortunately for you, I really dislike posing in front of the camera... I just feel silly. In the best shots I look annoyed and grumpy, precisely because I am annoyed and grumpy as the shots never turn out how I want them to. I do however like the two shots here because it looks as though the black hole design is sucking my body in to it (starting from the head). Since seeing me wearing her top, Susie has offered it as a gift…an act of kindness which worries me slightly…what has she got her eyes on of mine that she wants to accumulate for her own sartorial endeavours…I will have to sleep with one eye open from now on...

Rediscovering Christophe Lemaire

Two highlight looks from Christophe Lemaire AW09

I've been hearing the name Christophe Lemaire, or rather variations of the name for the last few weeks. Good friend, John Howard Little attempted to recall the designers name because he had stumbled across Lemaire's latest collection over on Mens Rag two weeks ago and has been excited by it ever since but couldn't quite recall the name correctly. I must admit that my little brain tends to overload with designer look books as a new season approaches and some slip right by me, so I have to thank John for forcing me to retrace my steps. I can certainly see why he was so excited by Lemaire's AW09 offering as the hard working designer resumes his relaxed volume and natural textures.

Do you recognise the name but are unsure where from? Well, Lemaire was at Christian Lacroix in the early 1990s before taking up the position of artistic director of Lacoste in 1998. Lemaire's luxuriously respectful take on the sports brand founded by René Lacoste in the early 20th century has made me nod my head in appreciation more than a few times. It his own line however, which gets me excited. His collections demonstrate a refined fusion of western and eastern references and none more so than this vision of AW09.

Heavy figure silhouettes, interchangeable and even and unisex, subtle dark palettes using Japanese costumes fabrics from the 70's. The clothes appear extremely comfortable and fluid, how could you not want to wrap up in cotton fleece, judo fabrics, silk, linen and woolen tweed? I have dabbled with this type of style before as I dressed up my Carola Euler cardigan with a pair of drop crotch trousers to create an ensemble which made me feel like the offspring of a Samurai and Obi-Wan Kenobi, it was a good look and one I'd happily try again. Here, the relaxed volumes and natural textures are so appealing as the rain lashes down in August, it might just be time to wrap up in soft fabrics and reach for a luxurious cummerbund....

Berthold's pac-a-mac 2.0

A look inside bstore for the latest exhibition

Raimund Berthold and artist Elsa Tierney took over the exhibition space of bstore this weekend. The joint exhibition, presents Tierney’s Meta Morphosis installation and more interestingly for me, marks the launch of Berthold’s capsule collection of transformational outerwear inspired by the practical pac a mac. Berthold, a (relatively) recent graduate from Central St Martins, showcases a capsule, debut offering comprising five pieces. All five pieces are are sporty, lightweight and comfortable, using modern fabrications which are perfectly suited for the British weather. It is undoubtedly a timely capsule range. The recent weather in London and beyond (EJ can testify for Manchester) can at best be described as a sick joke. Blue skies and glorious sunshine one moment (admittedly, these have been few and far between), wind and rain the next. More than once during the last few weeks I have been forced to trudge around town sodden whilst bemoaning the Great British summertime. Berthold's debut is a unique design collection of outerwear that cunningly changes from a coat to a bag and back again with consummate ease.

"I had an idea that it would be fun to reinvent the ‘pac-a-mac’. I loved its design and practicality and envisaged expanding this theme into a collection of men’s outerwear in interesting, weather resistant fabrics, and all with their own integrated bag” comments Berthold.

Pieces include a double breasted car coat which converts into a duffle bag, and an over sized round neck windcheater that changes into a ‘shopper’. There is also a rain cape, but with sleeves whose integral back ‘pocket’ turns into a simple square bag with back straps and a gillet which flips inside out to create a mesh shoulder bag as well as a loose fitting overcoat. These include a double breasted car coat which converts into a duffle bag, an oversize, round neck windcheater that changes into a ‘shopper’. There is also a rain cape, but with sleeves whose integral back ‘pocket’ turns into a simple square bag with back straps, a gillet which flips inside out to create a mesh shoulder bag as well as a loose fitting overcoat. My damp clothes are evidence enough that my wardrobe would benefit from a few items from this collection sooner rather than later, so I will just have to puddle hop my way to bstore.

An afternoon flicking through 'When you're a boy'

(When you're a boy) You can wear a uniform (When you're a boy) Other boys check you out (You get a girl) These are you favourite things (When you're a boy)
David Bowie and Brian Eno, Boys Keep Swinging (1979)

Two weeks have passed since the opening of Simon Foxton's When you're a boy exhibition at the Photographer's Gallery and the closest I've got to the images is the Gallery Shop whilst seeking shelter from (one of many) Summer downpours. Alas, we just didn't have enough time to explore the exhibition space fully so rather than trudge my sodden hi tops around I just picked up the exhibition catalogue. For those of you who have not been to able to see the exhibition yet, why not make yourself a cup of tea, sit in a comfy chair and pour over the pages as I have done this afternoon and marvel at Foxton's amazing body of work...

From 'Punk', photographed by Nick Knight. Published in The Face, Feb 1986

The exhibition explores exactly what a great stylist contributes to a fashion photograph beyond selecting clothes and dressing models. Through the impressive body of work of pre-eminent menswear stylist, the exhibition traces the growth and development of men's fashion over the past three decades. Foxton has deservedly built himself a reputation as one of the leading image-makers of men’s fashion; anticipating and defining key shifts in menswear design throughout. the 80s, 90s and 00s. Foxton's interest in masculinity, ethnicity and sexuality are captured in images shot by photographers and longtime collaborators Alistair McLellan, Nick Knight and Jason Evans. Foxton's contribution to fashion photography goes way beyond the production process that precede a shoot, and towards offering a benchmark of taste; it is a singular world view. In combination with longstanding photographic partners (Knight, Evans, McLellan) who each bring their own specific perspectives to bear on the work produced, Foxton's unique perspective inspires discrete and different bodies of work.

Left: From 'Punk', photographed by Nick Knight. Published in The Face, Feb 1986. Right: From 'War' photographed by Nick Knight. Version published in Big, No.18, 1987

Elements of the styling practice that Foxton had been responsible for popularising in the 1980s - street casting, customisation, inveigling non-fashion accessories into shoots, using 'model's' own clothing - were crucial in shaping the identity of my favourite magazines whilst growing up and beyond. Foxton began styling for i-D in 1984, at a time when the visual language of fashion photography was still being established. Since then he has contributed to my favourite magazines and more including The Face, Arena, Arena Homme Plus, Vogue Hommes International, Details, W, GQ Style and Big Magazine. Without his work, the magazines that we know and love would certainly not be the same.

From 'Strictly', photgrpahed by Jason Evans. Published in i-D, July 1991

There is a great Penny Martin interview with Simon Foxton in his garden shed featured inside the catalogue, below are a few of my favourite questions and answers...

Penny Martin: How did you make the shift from designing to styling?

Simon Foxton: When I had my own little design company, I found the whole process of from imagining the clothing to the realisation and production such a long, laborious and tedious journey. The idea that I could come up with ways of dressing people to make them look different and for it to happen almost immediately was like a big light going on in my head. I thought "I don't have to deal with factories in the East End, or order buttons. I can actually come up with ideas and make them happen within a week."

From 'Hey there fancy pants', photographed by Jason Evans. Published in i-D, May 2004

Penny Martin: If not money, what do you think still motivates you after twenty five years?

Simon Foxton: It is only when you stop and look at it, like now, with doing an exhibition, that you think "God, I have been doing this for twenty five years! Why?" I don't know. It is partly because it is fun. The commercial things can be tough but the editorial is usually great: having a freehand to make images. Once that whole character is there, it's almost like giving birth. I've created this thing and it's like "wow, I've not seen that before, a person dressed in that way." That is enough for me.

From 'Atlas', photographed by Alasdair McLellan. Published in Arena Homme Plus, AW 2003/04

With wit, sophistication and irreverence, Foxton continues to redefine perceptions of masculinity with his uniquely thrilling and fantastical portrayals of men. During his twenty five year career, Foxton has evolved a highly recognisable and much emulated approach to creating fashion photography. An approach which sees him balance a deep respect for traditional men’s fashion design with an injection of street culture, popular imagery and much needed humour. He is quite simply the quintessential menswear stylist, consistently progressing men’s fashion and truly deserves this exhibition. If you are in town anytime from today until October 17th, you have to make a trip to this exhibition...if you've already been, please let us know what you thought.

Selection of shots published in i-D, unpublished work and webcasts on SHOWstudio.com