Friday, 17 July 2009

Sneak peak at Carolyn Massey SS10

Carolyn Massey has always been a Style Salvage favourite and it has been great to see her develop her label over the last few seasons to become one of the most significant menswear designers in the UK. This is going to be a huge year for her and deservedly so. She closed the extended menswear afternoon back in February in true style with her first solo show and since then has been beavering away on an her SS10 collection, not to mention her Topman Lens designs and various other projects! After being offered a closer look of her AW09 designs and her studio back in March she allowed me to nosey around her studio whilst salivating over her SS10 collection. The tailoring pieces weren't quite finished yet but there was more than enough to keep my eyes busy, as Carolyn added printed t shirts and additional accessories including handmade braided belts and amazing backpacks. I asked Carolyn about her inspirations for this collection and she kindly sent through the below images. She was inspired by adventure and exploration. For me the season is all about escaping the mundanity of everyday life and exploring far away lands...or beaches in Kent (in my case, ha!).

Carolyn kindly sent through a few of her inspirations for the collection.

I was privileged to have this sneak preview of the future and even more fortuitous to be able to pick Carolyn's brain as I marvelled over her wares. Below is my exploration of her the SS10 offering and I've added quotes from the lady herself which explain her thoughts and guidance on the pieces.

I couldn't stop taking pictures of the amazing accessories, the braided belts and the backpacks were amazing!

On the handmade, braided belts...
"The pieces that you photographed are based on 'Troddels' - traditionally used by the German army (post war) to place with precision the exact whereabouts of soldiers in particular regiments. Also the Japanese craft of Kumihimo was definitely an inspiration for the brading. This featured in the key rings, troddels and belts."

Massey's chunky knits and all more friendlier 'alas, poor Yorick' moment.

I fell head over heels for the chunky, cable knits in Massey's Aw09 collection and the above table of bold blue knitted creations renewed my love. Carolyn once again worked closely with her knitwear consultant Lynn to create these pieces which looked to be inspired by fishermen and explorers.

On the accessories:
"The accessories came about as a store that I work with mentioned that his customers would love to see some bags and belts from me, and I work with a really good factory that also makes these, so I thought I'd try this and see how they would be received. Its also went in so well with the inspiration for the collection- the film the Heroes of Telemark - based on the true story of Norwegian heavy water sabotage in WW2. Id also recently been on a camping trip to Dungeness, and this inspiring thinking of realistically when and where you would wear these garments. Gave them a sense of grounding, of place."

One of Carolyn's print collage t shirts.

On expanding the collection for this season:
"I've expanded the collection quite a lot this season, as showing on the catwalk was very inspiring, thinking about the whole offer of the collection. I did some T shirt styles also, which were quite fun to do, thinking about placement print- collages from found images."

The outwear on show was truly special. A featherlight trench came in bold blue and for me is the perfect everyday jacket for the season. Even on the warmest of days in fair Blighty, there is a constant threat of the odd downpour. I've been looking for a similar trench for some time, thankfully I won't have to look next year! The most surprising piece for me was the multi option hoodie/jacket hybrid which came in the sturdy waxed cotton. I described it as multi option purely because features like additional pockets, straps and even a backpack can be added to this utility jacket.

Massey's marvellous multi option jacket.

On the amazing jacket above:
"The "multi option jacket" (I love this - makes it sound so sci-fi!) we call the paracoat. I collect garments that are of interest, mostly army/navy/RAF- and this was inspired by a coat which I actually don't have any idea where it is from. It had a detachable bag on it which just seemed a bit bonkers as an idea, so I ran with it."

The collection was undoubtedly inspired by spending the so-called warmer months in the great outdoors. The pieces come together to offer protection and function whatever the weather whilst colour, including mustard yellow and rich blues, is splashed throughout to create a collection to truly covet. I will soon be leaving London for the weekend to have another trip by the Kentish seaside, looking at the forecast for the next few days, my suitcase would most certainly be improved with a few pieces from this collection.


Mat said...

you are a very lucky boy getting to look round the new , not even finished collection. really impressive but i expect nothing now now do we. love the idea of the braided belt hooked onto the belt loop like a multi purpose chain, backpack (of course) and the expansion into tshirts is cool, esp the print on that white on. uber cool

James said...

knitwear and accessories look great
where stocks carolyn massey? i have such a hard time tracking her down.

Style Salvage Steve said...

Mat: I am so lucky! There was just so much to see, roll on next year. That said, there is plenty to take inspiration from for this Summer.
James: Aside from the Lens line she is hard to get hold off, but soon will be stocked in by Dan Jenkins and ASOS.

Anonymous said...

Nice insight in to the future, Massey is top.

Raji said...

Gorgeous piecess!
Lovee Massey

Lochi Love said...

I love Massey! Great bright blue knits and I'm really liking the print on that tee

James said...

wow, i can't believe how good asos is getting. i remember when superdry was as directional as it got. thanks!

pat said...

Massey should be stocked in more stores soon.

Oh I love your blog btw!

Daniel Jenkins said...

We'll have Massey Aw09 instore and online in next few months. The only physical store in the UK to stock her....

It is even more impressive in the flesh. Why it isn't stocked by more stores is beyond me.

TheSundayBest said...

That is a killer redesign. See you in two days.

gilda said...

i just had to say i really adored that print collage tshirt!!


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