Tuesday, 21 July 2009

E Tautz SS10: An Englishman on Holiday

We excitedly covered the resurrection of E. Tautz back in February as the historic sporting and military outfitters took its place in the extended MAN afternoon. Since its relaunch E. Tautz has deservedly gone from strength-to-strength (as mentioned in previous posts) and SS10 sees the launch of its second ready to wear collection. I was fortunate enough to meet the lovely Patrick Grant to discuss the last few months and the inspirations behind the Spring/Summer offering for Dazed Digital. The full interview is now live over on DD but I've picked out my favourite looks and look at the inspiration behind the designs.

The double breasted suits are cut exquisitely. The suited short never looked so good!

E. Tautz's first offering was inspired by the photo archive the Sandringham Estate, the colours, the landscape and more than the odd sartorial nod to its stylish inhabitants. It was quintessentially English and for Spring/Summer, Patrick an his team have been inspired by the idea of the Englishmen on holiday. Upon hearing this today, one instantly conjures up images of over hanging beer bellies and loutish behaviour (I would know, I've been on such holidays!) but thankfully, Patrick was inspired by an Englishman cut from a different cloth. The inspiration was not just any Englishman but the Duke of Windsor. Diana Vreeland, the former editor of Vogue, had strong views about the Duke and once remarked "the Duke of Windsor had style in every buckle on his kilt, every check of his country suits' and who can argue with her!? Patrick explained...

"The inspiration really came from a photograph of the Duke of Windsor getting off his boat in Mallorca. Actually, there are two photographs really. One where he is sitting cross legged wearing this beautiful Breton jumper and his ivory flannels rolled up and a pair of espadrilles. The other photograph was of him stepping on a boat with a pair of bagpipes, shorts and some espadrilles. The whole idea of that Englishman enjoying life on the Mediterranean in the summer is what flavoured the whole thing. When we were thinking about creating the collection we were thinking about what the English like to do in the Summer, they like to go to the med, sit on beaches and wear hankies on their heads...haha. Those particular two images covered everything that we did."

Patrick's two favourite looks. I love the sheer fabric used on the summer trousers.

One of Patrick's main reasons for relaunching the label was because he felt that there was nobody creating beautiful, chic, English menswear. He identified a desire for something handmade, beautifully cut and with English cloth at its heart. The label offers simple tailoring with a little something extra added, a bit of pomp, a bit of colour. This collection, like the first, demonstrates chic menswear but with a sense of humour, a sense of Englishness that has been lost over the years. The revived house strives to make stylish clothes to which a wardrobe can be built from. Patrick hopes that in "in ten years time I'd like to think that there are customers who have built a wardrobe of E Tautz, that allows them to dress beautifully every single day of the year, whatever the weather," I'd certainly love to be such a gentlemen.


Michael said...

That jumper is delightful although I do have a little too much navy and white stripeyness in my wardrobe already.

More strength to Mr. Grant and his beautiful chic English menswear project.

Mr Brown said...

Nice, but I would disagree that a sense Englishness has been lost.

Re-interpreted, stolen or assumed by cads, urchins and pretenders - all yes, but lost? Not at all.

JKISSI said...

Great write up. I like to see the perspective of people from the UK especially because you guys are the original dandys with style.

Good post.


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