Monday 13 July 2009

A closer look at BUCK's 'Of the Mountains' editorial

The leading image from 'Of the mountains'

There has been a distinct lack of inspirational editorials in the latest issues of my favourite magazines so it is great to see so many strong online offerings. For the latest round of editorials over on Buckstyle, the fashion team each picked a major trend for the season each. Fashion Director Elliott James Sainsbury chose ‘mountaineering’ and is my early favourite. Of The Mountains features pieces by the likes of Omar Kashoura, JW Anderson, Woolrich Woolen Mills and Christopher Raeburn alongside highlight pieces from the high street and vintage shop finds to create some of the strongest yet attainable looks around. As we are online buddies with Elliott, I couldn't resist a closer look at the editorial and who better to run through the inspirations and designer picks than the man himself...

Key pieces: On the left, Parachute hoody by Christopher Raeburn, trousers by J.W. Anderson. On the right, hooded top and jogging bottoms by Topman Design. Vintage cap and small bag (worn as necklace) from Beyond Retro. Leather compass by J.W. Anderson,

On the inspiration:

"It seems there's a lot of 'mountaineering' style about at the minute. Inspired by that mix of sport and street, as worn so well by people like John Skelton, Way Perry, Kyle from goodhood. I also adore workwear, and think it all slots together. Juan and I had been meeting for about a month beforehand discussing what we'd like to do, he is very technical with lighting and was inspired by the Dunhill ads with Peter Saville in them (please check out, they are amazing) and an Oscar Wilde quote about being in an asylum. We liked that idea of pushing against walls, unnatural poses. We wanted a very detailed and busy background, complex styling... it took a lot of planning, each pose, the lighting and the clothes were very specifically chosen, each shot/look has a sort of coded meaning... for me it is about inner strength, determination and an internal metaphorical mountain. Clothes as armour, tooling yourself up, loading it on and fortifying yourself against the world... it was important to not be too literal as initially I thought of having it in a forest, but inside gave a totally unexpected feel. I researched explorers like Mallory etc. and loads of images to check that my notions were correct."

Key pieces: On the left, shirt by Oliver Spencer, cropped knit by Makin Jan Ma and necklace by JW Anderson,. On the right, plaid shiort and waistcoat by Woolrich Woolen Mills , satchel backpack by Harris Elliott for b Store.

On the colours:

"I wanted the colours to be a bit 'sick', to push it a bit further... hence the neon backpacks with a navajo shirt, pink with khaki. For me the most important thing is the little things, incoprorating the model's keys, strapping belts across the chest etc."

On the location:
"We shot it in the RIBA building in Portland Place (I think?), it was a really smooth day. The model Laurie was fantastic and is in a band, we had a great team on the day."

Key pieces: On the left, anorak by Christopher Raeburn, backpack and cable necklace by JW Anderson, gloves by Topman. On the right, beige coat and plastic bolero by Omar Kashoura, navajo shirt from Beyond Retro.

On the designers:

"Nigel Cabourn's clothes are fascinating, good to see such an icon coming back. I love the straps and backpacks of Topman Design A/W 09- the green top is actually almost identical to the ones below, n fact it was the key label for the shoot really as each piece was so perfect. Woolrich, Oliver Spencer are that whole workwear thing... I wanted to get that clear Omar Kashoura jacket in as I knew i wanted it to be a futuristic take on mountaineering. Part of what is cool right now, part what men could wear. Christopher Raeburn is very interesting, one to watch."

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

Nice post! Am loving the new look, I spot another new banner.

Matthew Spade said...

really liked this shoot, how good is the styling on it. it sort of makes me want some smart-ish sweat pant type things.

i liked it so much i featured it on my blog too

J said...

Great feature guys. The recent buck shoots have been great but this one steals it

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