Gifts for me, myself and I

Earlier this year I waxed lyrical about my retail crush on Hong Kong's institution of a specialty store, Lane Crawford. After a number of longing glances from across the ocean, this blossoming long distance affair took a surprising turn with the age of my new love coming to light. This season, Lane Crawford is remarkably one hundred and sixty years old. Founded in 1850 by Thomas Ash Lane and Ninian Crawford, it has evolved to become a leading luxury specialty store offering a wide selection of mouth watering brands. Celebrating its one hundred and sixtieth anniversary, Lane Crawford proudly launched Heritage 160 for AW10. To honour the rich history and unique past of the store, as well as its strong relationships with top brands, designers and talents from around the world, Heritage 160 featured a series of programmes and events throughout the season. The celebrations culminated last Thursday with with a ceremony and a launch event at its mind blowing flagship store at IFC mall. It was a celebration to remember and thank the many generations of families who have worked and shopped with Lane Crawford, and ultimately woven the fabric that has built 160 years of traditions and community in Hong Kong. Thankfully, I was invited out to join the celebrations.

The theme for the day was Play and play we most certainly did. The flagship space was transformed in to a dream like arcade park. Guests and celebrities alike all lined up to play favourite games, including ping pong, air hockey, car racing, pool and testing their skill at the claw machine. I tried my luck on the air hockey and ping pong tables. I came up short with a racket in my hand but Susie delivered the goods with her vicious puck bashing. Now, I rarely win anything. Having grown up losing pound after pound in the slot machines that preyed on the young and the bored of Margate it felt good to win and win big. My prize came in a special blue box...

That special blue box that so many crave.

Now, if I did win anything in my previous life the winnings would normally still leave me short on what I ploughed in to the machine. Here however my luck changed for the better. A pair of embroidery adorned Lanvin cufflinks were found inside. I'm undecided whether they are a pair of skulls or monkeys but either way, I love them dearly and thank Lane Crawford (included eagle eyed accessories buyer Marco Lau) greatly.

A closer look of the cufflinks inside.

Having raised our glasses and partied with this Hong Kong institution our appetite for gifts was undoubtedly whet. The following morning (with a pair of slightly sore heads) we returned to the IFC store to explore the space in its returned state. After admiring the brand packed menswear floor (highlights include Nigel Cabourn, Kolor, Junya Watanabe, AI and the Cambridge Satchel Company to name but a few) we headed to the shoe department. It was here that I fell head of hi top heel for a pair of Lanvin's. Top of my footwear lust list has always been a pair of Lanvin hi tops.

My latest shoe obsession.

Now, you might recall that when I hit the quarter of a century mark, Susie knew me all too well and bought me the best present ever. Fast forward a couple of years and Susie saw that my eyes had lit up by a wool and leather combination for AW10. Having had the fires of gifting ignited within by the Lane Crawford party, she opted to treat me to a pair of these flocked grey, navy and maroon weave hi tops. Amazing. An early Christmas gift. I have been spoiled rotten and it feels good. Let's take a closer look at this pair of pulse racing, texture rich trainers...

A texture rich close up.

And another. Oh, I'm in love.

Later that day, we ventured to another retail favourite of this bustling city, Kapok. This small but perfectly formed store is an arbiter of good taste. With each visit there is temptation everywhere within its four walls. After recently featuring the latest offering from local accessories label Seventy Eight Per Cent I could not resist taking a closer. This closer look then led to a purchase of the real highlights of the new Harrison Fold collection, the Gustav. Having been treated by Lane Crawford and then by Susie, it was only fitting for me to treat myself, right......right?

As Shai Levy conceded in our recent interview, Harrison Fold was an interesting collection to design in several aspects. Firstly, it was a collaboration between himself and Harold Poon, a young talented designer who joined Seventy Eight Percent after graduating design school in Australia. Secondly, it had to meet the high expectations following the success of the Back To Old School Collection but at the same time be different. The inspiration initially came from waterproof outdoor bags that have roll top closures (hence the Fold in the title), and was influenced by Indiana Jones' shoulder bag.

Gustav itself is a designer Messenger Bag, designed to carry your belongings in comfort and style. It is spacious and well organized with pockets to stash my everyday essentials. The bags are engineered to fulfill people’s practical needs and are built to last. The Japanese wax coated canvas and Italian vegetable tanned leather are designed to age gracefully (far more so than this blogger). It makes for a fine present for myself.

One utterly spoiled me. Gustav messenger by Seventy Eight Percent and hi tops from Lanvin worn with black trousers from Tim Soar and a crombie coat from ASOS Black. 

Happy birthday Lane Crawford and thank you for igniting the flames of this gifting frenzy. Now, having been spoiled, I better make a start on my Christmas shopping.

Advent - Day Six

Daniel Jenkins has been running a menswear store solely based on young British menswear for over three years now. As a retailer, Jenkins has a clear vision on menswear and the designers he wants to sell which is why we chose him to take part in our advent calendar (and why we like to hang out with him and talk fashion). With Christmas Day fast approaching, Jenkins dreams up the ultimate way to reward his four legged friend...

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Daniel Jenkins' whippet Hector out enjoying the snow.

"I would love Lucien Freud to paint my whippet Hector, which would be wrapped up with brown paper and tied with Carolyn Massey all black Kumihimo style dog leads for my spaniels.

Thinking about it. All I really want under the tree this year is for those that I love to be happy and healthy."

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Advent - Day Five

Apologies for the delay in revealing what's behind door number five on our advent calendar of commercial desires. However, today's treat comes from a true menswear personality, Glenn Kitson. Kitson is a figure that has seen it all. His current CV details his successful contributions to the likes of 6876 , Penfield and oi polloi while producing his own fabulous publication The Rig Out. With the cold weather well and truly upon us, Kitson looks to an amazing piece of outerwear for protection...

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RALPH LAUREN COAT

Mandator Lined Utility Jacket from Black Label Ralph Lauren...
...so, Glenn actually selected a different coat but I couldn't find it anywhere. Sorry all!

"I'm actually quite lucky and tend to be given a lot of stuff and If I really want something I buy it. If we're talking clothes (which we obviously are..) then at Xmas it would have to be an amazing piece of outerwear. There's a lovely Ralph Lauren duck canvas barn coat/chore jacket in Liberty's at the moment, its £800 and a bit out of my price range right now, that would be quite nice"

*Looks up to the Christmas gods in heaven*.

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Advent - Day Four

The moment we decided to open up this festive feature to our favourite menswear personalities we knew we had to ask Carolyn Massey. Regular readers will know how much we have supported this London designer over the years and our love for her and her designs only grows with each season. Here, she reveals what she would like to unwrap on Christmas morning while mentioning the importance of buying your favourite item twice...

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CHURCH'S MONKSTRAP BROGUE

Chruch's Liverpool W.

"I've just treated myself to a black pair, but if we are being extravagant (and as a wise man once said, if you find something really perfect, always buy two of 'em) I'd also like a pair in brown too, especially for summer."

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On the subject of Massey...we have well and truly entered sample sale season and if you are based in London there are bargains to be had. This weekend Massey is taking part in the Wilkes Street Designer Christmas Sale along with Darkroom, David David and many others...Tis the season to get high on sales...

Nigel Cabourn's Studio

Nigel Cabourn has worked in the fashion industry for forty two years, yet his clothing has very little in common with most people’s understanding of fashion. Cabourn is a designer who is driven by his longstanding passion for vintage clothing, fabric and details. He has collected vintage clothing since the 70s after falling for their charms on visits to Portobello Road with Paul Smith. Since then he has amassed an archive of over four thousand pieces. It is this ever expanding vintage collection that is the cornerstone of each collection, not a response to a particular trend or demand. Each collection has a real story, is grounded in history and integrity underpinned by the highest level of quality. It is Cabourn's encyclopedic knowledge of uniforms, work and utility wear combined with his eye for creating something new which makes him so special. Many designers from around the globe have imitated or appropriated elements of his design but there is only one Nigel Cabourn. He has, without doubt been and indeed continues to be one of the leading figures in menswear. Last week, I was invited up to his Newcastle base to explore the label and to find out about a number of exciting developments for AW11. This trip has to be my blogging highlight.

The close knit Cabourn team work and play in a converted two story gardener’s house at the bottom of his garden which overlooks a cricket pitch and nets. The studio is home to the astounding archive. It is this archive which serves as his rich source of inspiration and it consists of salvaged British Military uniforms, workwear and a treasure trove of exploration garments unearthed from all corners of the globe. I arrived in snowy white Newcastle just as Cabourn took delivery of a second world war flight suit. That very morning, he had received an excited call from a friend informing him that an auction house located an hours drive away was offering the RAF suit. Ever the collector, Cabourn and his right hand man Drew, could not resist and they soon bagged their latest find. I was fortunate enough to be able to view their passion first hand. It was infectious. Thankfully I was able to document the experience for you.

A look at the fluit suit from all angles.

During the studio visit I was able to see the evolution of Cabourn's designs firsthand as he talked me through a few key highlights for AW11. I was amazed by how much of his design process is conducted on computers. Despite rarely touching a computer himself, Cabourn has always embraced technology and works with talent who utilise the latest software while taking his instruction. Cabourn's process begins with a key vintage piece, then magpie like, he brings in elements and details from other vintage favourites and discoveries. Then the process of Cabournisation of a garment develops until a beautiful piece is created, "I consider this to be my working hobby. It's not really a job at all" Cabourn grinned. Having spent the entire afternoon in his company I can definitely see how he sees this as a hobby. One only has to look at his classics to see this process in action, for example the Antarctic Parka. First made for the Ascent of Cabourn collection in 2003, the iconic design is inspired by the parka worn by Sir Edmund Hillary on his Antarctic and Everest expeditions. One hundred percent Cotton Ventile outer fabric, handstuffed with goosedown, with skeepskin and coyote fur trim in the hood. Just stunning. In the space of the afternoon Cabourn mentioned Sir Edmund Hillary atleast five times. His admiration for the great explorer is clear and the effect on his designs is great. Below are a selection of vintage pieces that caught my eye...

A selection of vintage finds that caught my eye.

The entire studio is a treasure trove of archive pieces, treasured Nigel Cabourn pieces, samples for future seasons and a collection of his inspirations. I spent quite some time thumbing his well curated library which include everything from specialist exploring and history books to a collection of L'Uomo Vogue's that would leave any museum green with envy to the latest issues of Free & Easy and The Rig Out. Inside this two story space it really does not matter where your eyes or attention rest because there is glorious menswear inspiration at every turn. Oh, to work in a space like this...

Inspiration everywhere.

Fabric unsurprisingly plays an important role in Cabourn's designs. His AW10 Save the Nation Collection is an in-depth look at the original and authentic foul-weather garments worn to protect against the harsh environment of working on the deep sea and Harris Tweed features heavily. In a time before modern synthetic waterproof fabrics existed, traditional fabrics and materials were used and adapted to resist the elements. Garments were weather-proofed by soaking cotton in linseed or fish oil, sometimes in beeswax. Shetland wool knitwear provided warmth, with a cotton or flannel base layer underneath. Cork was used to improve buoyancy in the water and chunky wooden toggles were used on heavyweight duffel coats as a way of keeping the very thick fabric closed against the cold harsh wind. Outerwear was often dyed bright yellow or orange to stand out in the poor visibility during a storm and made lifeboat men more visible to those who needed rescuing from the sea. The collection is a study of these original foul-weather garments, based on carefully researched vintage pieces and using heritage British fabrics and the highest quality British manufacturers. This is a philosophy that runs through each of his collections.

Fabric swatches and rolls of tweed.

For those of you who do not know, the Nigel Cabourn label is split in two complimentary lines, Authentic and Mainline. The original Authentic line it was first launched in its present form in 2003 to coincide with the 50th Anniversary of Sir Edmund Hillary and the 1953 Ascent of Everest. This was undoubtedly a remarkable human achievement and the clothes worn were basically all military, customised for the climb. Remarkably, Cabourn had many of the originals in his vintage library so set about recreating them as close to the originals as possible. Today every Authentic Range follows the very same philosophy, it will have a real story and sense of history and integrity but at the highest level of quality.

Given that Cabourn has a great appreciation and knowledge of Japanese fabrics, he has used them in his collections for many years. The Mainline Collection gives him the chance to produce a specialist collection based on Japanese fabrics and production techniques not available in UK. This creates a unique situation where the two collections Authentic and Mainline start with the same concept and we are then able to expand the collection in Japan using some of their unique contemporary fabrics, finishes and washing techniques. Nigel travels to Japan 4 times a year to not only work on design and fabrication but so he can also personally approve each prototype. He also works with some of the best Japanese mills who develop new fabrics for him, based on original vintage fabrics from his archival collection. He pays particular attention to Japanese accessories to give Mainline the same integrity and attention to detail as Authentic.

Highlights from current Cabourn collections.

Nigel Cabourn might have worked in the industry for over forty years but he still has an incredible enthusiasm and passion for what he does. Long may it continue and long may he continue to inspire others. I will leave you with a repeat of his telling description of his design life because it sums up the man far better than my excited ramblings. "I consider this to be my working hobby. It's not really a job at all."

Advent - Day Three

Having focused your festive commercial longing on the latest item that Mr Hare has created (the Exquisite Shoe Horn in collaboration with Bunney) it is fitting to reveal the item that is on his own Christmas wish list...

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VACHERON CONSTANTIN HISTORIQUE 1955 WATCH

"I am a simple guy and every year I just want the same simple thing.

A Vacheron Constantin Historique 1955 watch. Its the worlds thinnest precision watch. The movement is only 1.6mm thick and is cast in Geneva hallmarked, 18k Rose gold as is the case, buckle and hands. It is a masterclass in understatement even with the alligator strap. I would even settle for the square Historique 1968 if I had to."

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The Bunney, the Hare and the shoe horn

Have you heard the story about the bunney, the hare and the shoe horn? When I heard that two of my favourite designers were joining forces to create a limited edition object, I could not contain my excitement. Jewellery designer Bunney and master shoemaker Mr Hare decided to create a shoe horn like no other. When I hear the term 'shoe horn' my mind is filled with images of cheap plastic forms  that lie uninvitingly on the cash desks of any cobblers. Thankfully the fruits of this collaboration could not be any further from these images. With this shoe horn, there are a number of different components that require some kind of specialist trade so Hare and Bunney spent a great deal of time sourcing the finest workshops and craftsmen across the country to help create their shared vision. The result is a thing of real beauty. A shoehorn is something that you may only need to buy once, so the talented pair decided to make it feel as special as possible. The aptly named Exquisite Shoe Horn is carved from real, naturally shed, Scottish Ox horn, by a company founded in 1749. To provide ample thumb traction, mirror finished, solid 925 sterling silver coins bearing the Bunney and Mr. Hare marks have been inlaid at the handle by another company known to supply the royal households. Here we talk to Andrew Bunney to hear how the collaboration evolved and to find out more about the craftsmanship behind the object...

The Exquisite Shoe Horn.

SS: For me, a Bunney x Mr Hare collaboration makes perfect sense but how did it come about?

Andrew Bunney: It came out of a mutual respect and admiration. We realised that we both share a love of the Antiques Roadshow, and the idea that you can have something that will last many years and be beautiful for generations to come. We knew each other beforehand and when we talked about making something together it was clear that we should try and make something as beautiful as we could, that had elements that we both cared about. Of course, there is an affinity with our names too!

SS: What attracted you to creating a shoe horn in particular?

Andrew Bunney: It's the the natural balance between jewellery and shoes, and a perfect accessory for us to introduce. A shoehorn is something that you may only need to buy once, so we could really make this feel as special as possible.

A closer look at the black stone. 
On top of the horn is a silver cap (produced in Birmingham) that holds the gemstone which is then hallmarked.

SS: How would you describe it in your own words?

Andrew Bunney: I think it's very stylish, a touch sexy. It's quite beautiful as an object.

SS: Craft and local manufacture are obviously very important to you. Collaboration with local craftsmen and heritage is an integral facet of your brand identity. How did you identify the individuals to help realise your design?

Andrew Bunney: It's exciting to find the best producers where I can, but I don't really see it so much as collaboration - it's the traditional way of making things to use workshops that specialise in a certain craft. With this trade in particular, there are companies remaining that have been working in much the same way for many years, so naturally that comes with a lot of heritage. In finding these individuals or places, it is about research, but just as important is to find like-minded people that take an interest in what you are doing and what you want to achieve.

These silver coins start life being worked by hand to create the dies used for stamping out the logos - one with the BUNNEY logo, the other with Mr. Hare's

SS: I know that you enjoy visiting the different workshops around the country to learn what can be made and the possibilities that there are. Could you talk us through a few of the workshops used? And the processes involved in creating the shoe horn?

Andrew Bunney: I do find it fascinating, and you can learn so much from seeing just what people can do. With this shoehorn, there are a number of different components which require some kind of specialist trade, so even co-ordintaing something small scale like this, takes patience as things come from all around the country at different speeds.

The journey begins with the horn in Lancashire, which is naturally shed, picked and then carved to a specific shape. Craftspeople have been carrying out the practice in the same place for centuries. To make the silver coins I use a very-esteemed workshop in Birmingham that produces for all kinds of families and businesses around the world. They start life being worked by hand to create the dies used for stamping out the logos - one with the BUNNEY logo, the other with Mr. Hare's.

On top of the horn is a silver cap, again produced in Birmingham, that holds the gemstone which is then hallmarked. And then when everything is together, it is all assembled in London. The workshop in London is much in demand for trophies for international and domestic sporting events. And finally is the box, to house the shoehorn, which is bespoke and handmade in Walsall.

There is a story behind each individual part which is important to me, but ultimately the process is simply to produce something as well as possible.

SS: During our talk at Liberty, Mr Hare revealed that the horn was only the beginning. How do you see the collaboration developing?

Andrew Bunney: The natural way is to make beautiful accessories for men, and to make them as special as possible. Whilst we share a love of antiques, I don't want to make something old or something that has been made before, we have to move forward and make something relevant for now.

A thing of beauty from any angle. Here is a front view showing a red stone.

SS: What items can we look forward to in the near and far future?

Andrew Bunney: It's a little early to say now, but we are working on some ideas at the moment, again combining elements that we both know, thinking about what can be used daily or on occasion. We aim to create something new each season, but it's important to work steadily to ensure that it is as good as we can make it.

SS: Finally, where can we buy the design?

Andrew Bunney: It will be for sale in Dover Street Market in London, Colette in Paris, Surrender in Singapore and online at Oki-Ni and direct from Mr. Hare.

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Is this not the most exquisite shoe horn you have ever seen? This has to be the perfect gift for any discerning shoe man. The Exquisite Shoehorn will only be available as an edition of fifty, twelve of Garnet and thirty eight of Black Spinel. Santa, if you're reading this...

Advent - Day Two

To welcome in the second day of advent, we asked the buyer of London's most exciting concept store to reveal the one item that he hopes to find tucked under his christmas tree this. With the snow moving towards the capital, LN-CC's Dan Mitchel has plumped for a pair of beautifully crafted boots that would save his feet from the elements and their vibram morflex sole will no doubt keep him vertical.

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NONNATIVE BUFFALO HUNTER PECOS BOOTS

"I would love to find a pair of these under the Christmas tree this year. The harsh London winter is now kicking in and these boots are a much needed addition to my footwear collection!

The Buffalo Hunter boots from Nonnative are the best out there in my opinion. You can always count on Nonnative for quality production and craftsmanship. Solid boots made with from beautiful buffalo leather with a lightweight vibram Morflex sole unit. Will better with age and will last a lifetime."

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Advent - Day One

If we've learnt anything about Christmas, it is that the season is all about rampant consumerism, so this year our advent calendar will be a list of commercial desires. Previously we have indulged in revealing our own wish list but this festive season we decided to open it up to our favourite menswear personalities. We have approached a mixed bag of knowledgeable folk to reveal the items that they'd like to find under their Christmas tree this year. Over the next twenty five days responses will come from designers, store owners, PRs, journalists and a few fellow bloggers alike. To celebrate our first day of advent, Dal Chodha editor of b magazine reveals the two items that he longs to unwrap on Christmas Day...  

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SMYTHSON SOHO DIARY IN NAVY

"I have a stationery fetish; Smythson has always been my vice. I use their diary, note book and correspondence cards all year round. For me, Christmas is a time for planning the year ahead, so I'd love to find a Nile blue box and navy ribbon under the tree!"

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A copy of CHEAP CHIC UPDATE (1978)

"Caterine Milinaire and Carol Troy's writing on fashion and style in the late seventies provides the perfect antidote to Charles Hix's books on menswear. There is a real sensitivity and humour to the way these books discussed fashion, a humour which is mostly absent today."

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