An experience with Angels

On Saturday morning Susie dragged me out of bed at ridiculously early o'clock (6:30 am GMT) and before I even had time to wipe the sleep from my eyes, I found myself on a busy train to North Wembley, with the Angels sale being our destination. Susie has already covered the event in great detail and even created a video which shows you just how many people hauled themselves out of bed just like us (there were literally thousands upon thousands) in the hope of filling a plastic bag or five full of costumes and unique vintage pieces from the archives of BBC and Angels.

I must admit that I went there as support for Susie more than anything else, primarily my aim was to stop her from filling too many bags with items that our bedroom just doesn't have room for, or if that failed I would be her chief bag carrier, there was no strong desire to find pieces for myself. Rummaging through cardboard box after cardboard box whilst fending off the reach of others is not my ideal way to practice the art of shopping. I prefer to shop in stores which have beautifully arranged displays, friendly helpful staff and very few fellow customers who just ultimately get in the way of my experience and annoy me. On the most part I wandered the vast but cramped space, sidestepping boxes and crazed women of all ages. However, I did enjoy a few bursts of energy which saw me rummage with the best of them. I found a number of great jackets, including a wonderful navy sailor jacket with brass buttons (veeery similar to this chaps) but it like most of my finds smelt so bad that I gagged a number of times (no amount of Febreeze or dry cleaning would appease that wretched stench!). All was not lost though...

The Angels Sale Jacket is worn with a Tokyo street map pocket square by Muji, check bow tie bought from Hurwendeki, check shirt by COS, purple merino wool jumper from Uniqlo, grey wool wrap trousers by Unconditonal and silver hi tops from bstore.

I did however unearth a two button grey wool blazer which for some time has been something that I've been in search for to add to my winter wardrobe. Fortunately it fits well and has a pleasant odour...all it needs is replacement buttons (which I picked up today - black leather buttons from MacCulloch and Wallis). Upon leaving the sale, we encountered a number of broken bodies surrounded by plastic bags and an even larger queue of anxious looking people waiting to get rummage...after reaching the fresh, cold morning air we heard someone scream behind us, "We're alive and we only have chlamydia." It summed up a strange but fruitful Saturday morning.

Advent - Day Eight

Video time again. This time it's Fred and Ginger in the snow singing 'a Fine Romance'. Boys, take note of Fred's winter dressing; he looks wonderful in his bowler hat and black, fur trimmed coat (though please go faux if you want to copy this bit!) complement by pale gloves and scarf. Enjoy!

Advent - Day Seven

The eventful year of 2008 has certainly been a year of the collaboration (the highlights for me being Acne x Lanvin and Raf Simons x Fred Perry) and there is certainly time to squeeze a few more in before the year ends. I stumbled across my first three way on hypebeast yesterday and the below image permeated the thick cobwebs surrounding my brain and gave it a wake up slap.

New York-based contemporary brand Band of Outsiders, United Arrows’ Beauty & Youth and Japanese online magazine honeyee.com have worked together to create a bowtie and necktie. This certainly sounds like a lot of hands to create two relatively simple accessories but the resulting bow tie and in particular, how it has been styled in this shot (it reminds me of Christmas morning for some reason) is worthy of applause and I would be happy to receive this in my stocking!

Advent - Day Six

This Christmas, we're going for a different sort of Christmas jumper. In fact, it's not even a jumper, it's a cardigan.

Henrik Vibskiv cardigan from FarFetch

... and what a lovely cardie this one is. Christmas wishes don't come cheap, so allow us a little extravagance for a change (is £244 extravagant? I think I'm a little lame in my hedonism). This Henrik Vibskov bubble cardigan stops just around the knee and would be great for extra layering under your winter coat or over a shirt while you're roasting chesnuts on an open fire... and yes, I will actually be roasting chesnuts this December (though probably just under a grill). Also, as a general note, please wear more blue. Especially this particular shade. Thank you!

P.S. There's currently a competition open to win a £3000 shopping spree at FarFetch- what a great late Christmas present that would be! Details and how to enter can be found here. You have until 30th January 2009!

P.P.S. Steve didn't want me to tell you about this competition so that there would be more chance of him winning. But I am so good to you all that I didn't listen to him. So if you DO win, remember that and maybe buy me a new bag...

Bring Back The Hat

Now that I have a bit more time on my hands I'm able to write a lot more than I used to and I'm really enjoying it! As well as inundating you with posts here I've embarked on writing pieces for Fashion156. I wrote the MAN feature in the latest HATS/HEADPIECES issue and within it discussed the decline of hat wearing amongst men (I must admit that I hardly ever wear a hat myself, but this will change over the coming months). Our very first Style Salvage campaign was to get more men wearing hats but not enough has been done so we had to revisit it. There have been many golden eras where a man would consider an outfit incomplete, consider himself naked even, without a hat but now they are rarely even considered in the construction of the everyday outfit. Despite a wealth of inspiration from a number of recent collections (with James Long depicting the hat as an essential facet of the Winter Warrior look during his AW08 collection and Lanvin celebrating distressed straw hats which were reborn with silk ribbons for SS09) this has not been translated into the 'real world'. As always with Fashion156, there is a beautiful editorial containing carefully selected pieces from upcoming designers and these images have inspired me to experiment with head wear even more. Here are my highlights...

Headpieces all by J Smith Esquire

The J Smith Esquire featured headpieces simply steal the show and it is easy to see why Stephen Jones is so excited by the bespoke milliners creations. Following his MA in Millinery at the Royal College Of Art in 2007, Justin Smith continues to develop and push the boundaries of exciting millinery. Since graduating, he has been awarded the iD styling award, the Maria Louisa award at ITS6 and shown at London Fashion Week as part of On/Off. There is no doubt that he approaches hat design quite theatrically, "You can treat hats like sculptures, using any material that you want. I also love that you never wash a hat. So it has its own history that keeps going" remarked Justin in a piece for Interview.

Hat, shirt, harness and tie by Rui Leonardes, Visor by House of Flora

Rui Lonardes is a designer who is constantly questioning gender stereotypes, blurring the boundaries as he goes (typified by his high heels for men) but he is not a designer that ordinarily leaves me salivating, however his creations here do just that. The visor by House of Flora (a fashion label established by designer Flora McLean, who teaches fashion design and promotion at Middlesex University) makes me think that visors could have a place within men's style outside of the golf course...

In short, there is a great deal of inspirational hat donning out there...the time for a new era of hat wearing is now my friends.

Advent - Day Five

The recent 'are you...' poll informed us that there are a significant amount of female readers and we would like to thank you for your support and readership by giving you some gift ideas over the next few days.

Mr Start - Purple Gift Box

Start London has helped make man shopping a little easier with a variety of curated gift boxes that work against specific colour themes. We recently posted about our love for purple and it seems that Mr Start has tapped into our desires by offering the Purple Gift Box. Shots of purple can easily be added to dark hued winter outfits with the Timex violet vintage watch, Peckham Rye silk striped tie and Pantherella dog-tooth socks. I would certainly be happy with this...

More than just a collaborator

Mihara Yasuhiro S/S 09

For eight years Japanese designer Mihara Yasuhiro has been collaborating with Puma on a line of wildly inventive sneakers that have certainly not gone unnoticed (with features like patterns, drips, fur, studs, stripes and metallics) and he has certainly helped take trainers to the next level. Dazed Digital caught up with the designer as s/s 09 sees the release of his first apparel line for Puma and this made me realise that he is more than just a trainer collaborator. I must admit that I am more aware of his collaborative work with Puma than his own line so the recent DD interview forced me to look at Yasuhiro's line and I'm glad that I did. It is plain to see that Yasuhiro wants to inject romance and some soul into men's dressing and until now it has not been on my radar.

Mihara Yasuhiro's s/s 09 collection was inspired by the charismatic and controversial artist Joseph Beuys. Paint was dabbed on the jersey pile and canvas lace up shoes made the artist theme explicit. The collection saw fine leathers bonded with jersey which were paired with sun bleached trousers...creating a worn, aged and sell-able collection. Personally, the highlights were the jewellery pieces adorning the models designed by Husam El Odeh, his designs have inspired me to experiment more with men's jewellery (of course I will take note of thesundaybest's warnings against piracy).

Advent - Day Four

Before we inundate you with gift ideas and musings on the festive season, I wanted to hijack the advent calender a little while longer and just share an amazing magazine cover with you for box number four...

Image courtesy of thenonplace

The latest issue of Dazed&Confused Japan features a simply awesome illustrated cover and story by one of my favourite designers Aitor Throup. Throughout 2008 I have periodically returned to Throup's site to marvel at his comic book style sketches so it is a real treat to know that some unseen ones have been published in Dazed Japan. I just need to seek it out either in the basement of the Japan Centre or alternatively online...

My new years resolution for 2009 is to learn (some) Japanese because as Thom Wong keep commenting; 'they do everything better' and it would be nice to tell them that when I manage to get over there.

Unlikely Style Icons - Parisian Toddler

Dress You Up In My Love from Jak&Jill Blog

Is it wrong for someone (who is close to clocking up a quarter of a century!) to be both jealous and in awe of someone who could still (possibly) wet the bed? This stylish Parisian toddler was caught in all of his perfectly styled, sartorial glory by Tommy and ever since I saw it a couple of days ago I just can't get the image out of my head. I am green with envy because I just adore his jacket and have been on the hunt for something similar for some time. but to no avail. There is simply no way that you would see a child dressed anywhere near as stylish as this little chap anywhere other than Paris. I can assure you that despite my undoubted cuteness I partook in a vast number of social faux pas but that is all part and parcel of growing up for most of us. What do you make of this little chap, are you in awe like me or do you find it a little creepy?

Advent - Day Three

Considering yesterdays advent treat had an almost overwhelming Christmas feel to it, I thought we best take a step back from the season and celebrate Oscar Wilde for box number three.

I am fond of his great work and could spout off a number of fitting quotes but there is one in particular which resonates with me right now...

“Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not.”

Exciting Designers - Erin Lewis

I love to feature new menswear design talent but blogs like Mensrag do it so much better than I possibly could and always beat me to the post. Fortunately for me Susie is sent a great deal of information regarding new collections from designers across the globe - some of which are menswear...but few are as exciting as Erin Lewis.

The cut of the jackets are some of the most interesting that I've seen in some time and the whole collection is styled to perfection!

According to her biography, like myself Erin was born in one of those seaside towns that they forgot to close but that is where the similarity ends. She initially trained in sculpture but a desire to learn tailoring brought her to the London College of Fashion. Her graduate collection was tailored to Saville Row standards and a collaboration with Dashing Tweeds showed both innovation and tradition - the highlight of which was a Gentleman's Cape in grey lumatwill. The result was a small collection bought by Beams-Japan. Erin sought to make the most of British design sourcing all fabrics and production from the UK.

The true highlights of the collection are the capes. Since missing out on Carolyn Massey's headmasterly cape as part of the recent Topman Lens collection, I have been looking for a cape which would excite and challenge me and Erin Lewis has designed more than one.

Since graduating, Erin has taken a job as head design of the 'Charro' collection at Mexico's leading Eco-fashion brand 'Taller Flora' (founded by Carla Fernandez, the brand focuses on making use of Mexico's skilled artisans, combining traditional textile techniques with contemporary design). Erin Lewis is certainly a name that I will remember and look out for!

Advent - Day Two

Despite the Advent Calender I am finding it difficult to get into the Christmas spirit. Therefore underneath number two I wanted the quintessential Christmas song to get one and all in the mood...

Bing Crosby and Marjorie Reynolds in Holiday Inn

Of course the likelihood of it being a white Christmas for us all is extremely slim. I was however inspired by a recent post by the Cablog where he admitted to being smitten by the thought of a white Christmas so dressed accordingly.

We should all follow this stylish Norwegian's lead and take the pressure of old mother nature and make it a white Christmas whatever falls from the sky.

The Style Salvage Advent Calender

Can you believe that we have entered into the busy month of December...where has the year gone? As we have now awoken to the month of giving we wanted to mark the occassion by giving something back to you and what better (and tacky) way than to give each and everyone one of you an advent calender!? Instead of opening up those little jagged edged flaps each day to uncover a piece of stale chocolate-like-substance shaped into something vaguely reminiscent of a reindeer or a christmas tree, we will offer something alot more useful and tasty to you, our esteemed reader. Our aim is to warm you up on these cold December mornings. First up, uncovering box number one...

Under box number one is an image of a Uniqlo branded vending machine...which signifies the UK launch of Uniqlo Heattech. Apparently, one in three people in Japan own a Heat tech garment...so it is certainly a staple over there and the Japanese know a fair deal about practical, good quality clothing so we should certainly take notice! After braving a very busy and slightly depressing (due to the sorry excuse for Christmas lights and the air of desperation exuding the shop fronts) Oxford Street and venturing into the Uniqlo flagship store, it is easy to see why it is so popular. As the mercury falls it is time to layer and these surprisingly sheer garments provide a solid base to create efficient layered style. I'm not one to be fooled by pseudo science (typified by TV advertisements within the hair and beauty industry making up words to confuse and bewilder one and all) but whatever you make of Uniqlo's claims (apparently the fabric absorbs moisture and converts it into heat, whilst with an exciting mix of milk proteins ensures a snug fit) I can assure you that I am wearing pieces of the line now and I am quite toasty. and the fit is indeed snug. As always with Uniqlo, the pieces come in a rainbow of colours. Step aside American Apparel, in 2009 I predict that Uniqlo will completely conquer the retail lansdcape.

Picture Postcard: What a rocket scientist should look like

It is a magnificent moustache, bristling with mischief, sweeping from cheek-bone to cheekbone like a second smile

Daniel Jubb, 24, the owner of the moustache, looks like a Victorian scientist transposed to the 21st century

EJ brought this image into my life last week as it was part of her daily batch of links she sent my way and I just had to share it with you. Daniel Jubb is a rocket scientist and this is exactly how a rocket scientist should look. I just can't believe that this chap is a mere twenty four years old...I am the same age and am neither a rocket scientist or more importantly could never grow a moustache like this!

Monocle Shop - A small haven from the hustle and bustle of Central London shopping

You might have noticed on previous posts that I am an avid reader of Monocle. It is the only monthly (well it can almost be classed as a monthly) that I read from cover to cover and take great delight in keeping because they are such a good resource! At the helm of the magazine is a man both myself and TheSundayBest hate to love who is constantly pushing the publication forward and in new directions. The latest direction is the Monocle Shop (located just off London’s Marylebone High Street) and I just had to brave the wet, grey London afternoon today to take a peek inside (unfortunately I took my camera but left my memory card in the laptop, so the images are provided from Monocle). The shop showcases the full Monocle range of products that have been created in partnership with leading design brands such as Comme des Garçons, Porter, Valextra, Artek and Drakes London.

At just just nine sq metres in size (it is only a touch larger than my childhood bedroom which only allowed my bed, a small television set and my sega mega drive) but it is so welcoming and feels so homely. The shop feels like a well thought out living room., summed up by prints of Alexis Armanet's Sumo Shots adorning the wall above the fireplace ..I just wish it was my living room! I was instantly greeted by a chirpy assistant who was happy to chat and show me the range of products. Upon showing me the Porter Baby Boston Bag I was so very close to sacrificing all self control and handing over my debit card to the lovely lady and asking to take one of everything! Fortunately, just before I could reach into my card wallet and begin mass purchasing everything from the array of goods, in walked Yoshitsugu Tagaki who is Production Editor of KitaKoga which pushed my excitement levels over the edge and I couldn't take any more...I paid for the latest issue and departed with a smile on my face.

Before I left, the helpful assistant informed me that the space will constantly evolve, the stock will change on a regular basis right up until the shop closes in March. This store is a safe haven away from the crowds and madness of Oxford Street...I know where I will be shopping for Christmas Gifts (for others...but mostly for myself!) and if you have a chance you should definitely pop in.

Here comes the man boy

I have been a fan of Omar Kashoura ever since I stumbled across his designs on the racks inside The Shop at Bluebird and walked away with a black cardigan which is always admired and is frequently a conversation starter. Since graduating from the London College of Fashion in 2004 Kashoura has won many more plaudits than just little old me, including the top prize at New York's Gen Art Style International Menswear Award in 2005 and working for Preen and Unconditional. Despite a great deal of attention in his brand, Kashoura decided to go back to school and complete a masters and Spring/Summer 09 sees the release of Omar Kashoura's first collection since graduating from his masters at Central Saint Martins.

This collection, as with each season, evolved from a poem written by Kashoura. The latest collection explores the ideas of the 'ManBoy' and the encapsulating poem can be read below.

CLOTHES………….introduced to conceal modesty.

… Necessary to hide defects and used to reduce everyone to a decent insignificance of physique, to improve the imaginings of the male body.

Dazzled by the confusion of knowing how to look,

Extreme

EXTREME

From the 70/80’s super extreme to the recent heroin chic,

‘ ..Here comes the man boy.. ‘

The new man of narcissism, glowing, sweating and grinning, an exploding signifier of the so called post modern condition

He is a reaction,

a narcissist yet modest, a man, but still a boy.

A body that is perfectly formed, whilst exhibiting manliness in its strongest form.

Modern………yet historical………and futuristic all at the same time.

We are a visual and stylistic culture.

Men are visual commodities

Hair cuts,

The cut of jeans

Ways of walking and being.

Points of comparison between men, not just as aggressive competitors but as stylists in the same club.

Encourage more

Men and others, visually and as objects of consumer desire.

The body in the gaze becomes an public object, it is a surface, a shape, a volume. With the ever powering campaigns and advertising the moving body must be on display and available for inspection. Whether in visual representation or personal form.

…..He is educated

aware of his identity and thus able to move beyond the sphere of unreflecting immediacy,

to raise the question of the purpose and function he serves in human existence as a whole.

Truest manliness will be achieved by freedom rather than a slavish subservience to convention.

A raw material sculpted through clothes.

3D

Designs used to heighten anatomical maleness + Experience pleasures around the body .

...A reassertion of masculinity over femininity

Within this collection structured tailoring sits alongside figure hugging jersey and bias cut silhouettes producing a collection strong in shape, pattern, fit whilst being soft of fabric. The intricate detailed finishes and fastening put the typical Kashoura seal of approval and design into each garment, including lopped shirt collars and petersham back buttons through to some of my favourite shirt bib accessories. For me this is a collection which demonstrates that the boy Omar Kashoura is becoming a Man.

Messing around in the mirror

I know we posted images of this chap from garance doré only yesterday but the more we looked at the spread of images, the more we fell in love with this chap's style (EJ went as far as calling him her new BFF on the images alone!) and he certainly deserves additional attention. -we have been starved of interesting men's street style for sometime so lets celebrate our first piece of nourishment in weeks! The post yesterday concentrated on his glorious round tortoise shell spectacles but we just had to talk about his hair, here is a man who is not afraid to play around every morning in front of the mirror and style his hair in a way which suits his outfit that partticular day. EJ is constantly requesting that I change my hairstyle because I've been wearing it in more of less the same way for the last few years. Gio has inspired me to mix it up a little. Armed with an assortment of Bumble&Bumble styling products and a comb I decided to have a play around with an element of my style which has remained motionless as my sartorial choices have evolved. I present to you an animated gif (who needs fancy videos when you can say it all in a gif? teehee) of my hair adventures...hopefully it will inspire you to think a little more about how you will wear your hair tomorrow.

This might not look much but EJ will testify that messing with my hair (however small) takes me out of my comfort zone. I like talking about hair and hair styles, as long as it is other people's.

Are you adventurous when it comes to styling your locks? How often do you change your style?

Update: Lick of paint and upcoming posts

It must be the combination of pre-Christmas dread and excitement because the world of men's style has been relatively quiet recently...although we were both excited by the chap recently featured on garance doré (yes we posted about his glasses yesterday but his hair alone deserves a post which will be with you soon!). No matter on the quiet times on the men's style front, as part of the Men Represent DIY Challenge (talking of which we are both gathering materials, how are you getting on?) we have decided to use this time and rather than twiddle our thumbs give the blog a lick or two of paint - we might have been inspired by TheSundayBest's recent redesign. As the blog has grown older it has become somewhat cluttered (like most old homes - just think of your Grandparent's home filled with an amazing amount of antiques and tat) and we want to make the experience of reading it as easy and as aesthetically pleasing as possible so have been working on ensuring just that. First up has been to redesign the right column of the blog and to tackle the clutter we have been working on creating our very own Style Salvage Buttons (above is one example of what we have been working on). We are however interested in your opinion, so it would be great if you could let us know what you think about the aesthetics of the blog, how can we improve it (please bear in mind that blogger only allows a limited degree of creativity)?

As well as messing around in photoshop we have been plotting a number of post ideas. This is what we have coming up (in no particular order):

1) Men Represent DIY - The first round of the the 'how to' posts along with the results will be posted after the weekend. We will give you a hint about our projects...Steve's involves feathers whilst EJ's involves facial hair...intrigued and worried? well you should be!
2) Style Salvage Gift Ideas - as the festive season is fast approaching we will walk the streets and surf the web to find the best gift ideas (also, it will give you an idea if you want to send us something)
3) Advent Calender - rather than a piece of dubious chocolate we will give you a picture postcard each day
4) Best of British - inspired by acontinouslean's The American List we will unveil the very best products and brands originating and producing in this Island.
5) Magazine Review Videos - Like the true junkie that he is Steve is waiting for the next batch of men's style journalism to hit the shops, as soon as they do we will digest and review them for your viewing pleasure.

So, we are sure that you'll agree that there is lots to look forward to! It doesn't matter if you love the Christmas season or scream bah humbug at every given opportunity because we are going to ensure that December is going to be a good month.

Through the looking glass

The stylish Giovanni as captured on garance doré - which for me is now the best street style site because the shots are just beautiful!

Gone are the days where we would be embarrassed to be seen in public wearing glasses, opting for contact lenses, squinting and/or blindness (depending upon the degree of sight). There has certainly been a great deal of attention afforded to spectacles in recent months (culminating in a spread on Spectacle in the latest issue of Fantastic Man) and rightly so. The circular frames as worn by Giovanni above are something very special indeed. My list to Santa includes a pair of tortoise shell frames and I know that EJ has expressed a matching desire to own a pair as well. These are the finest pair that I've seen for some time.

The function of frames is just not merely to suspend a pair of corrective lenses before the eyes of a myopic or the hyperopic but also to serve as a statement of style. These days, glasses are not just for seeing things that little bit clearer, but for adding clarity to a chaps style. Mankind has come along way from playgrounds filled with mobs chanting 'Four Eyes' just before beating up the latest victim of bespectacled bullying. We are now beginning to see glasses as more than just a handy aid for the visually impaired, they are an object which can make the wearer more interesting, beautiful and desirable. I leave you with the wise words of Philip Crangi as featured in Fantastic Man:

"I never discriminate against the bespectacled. I think people in glasses are really sexy. Unless they're not of course."

Designer of the Year - Honey I shrunk the suit

Unsurprisingly GQ have name Thom Browne 'Designer of the Year' in their December issue and there cannot be too many complaints out there...are there? I'm hard pushed to come up with a single other menswear designer who has created such a stir after his shows, not to mention the fact that his indicative style has been replicated throughout the world. Never before have I seen men sporting cuffed trousers complimented by no socks on the scale I have seen on the streets of London this year and this is down to the influence of one man.

Men's style is such an interesting and constantly evolving entity. Who would've thought just a few years ago that someone who advocated high trousers and the shrunken suit would become the toast of the sartorial town? Browne started selling the suits we have grown to love in 2001 and his collections have always been focused around the suit, building on its links to menswear from the past and how the oddity of its proportions threw its reference points into postmodern relief. Since 2001 Browne has of course received many plaudits but he has also received a great deal of negative reviews - there is a constant criticism that the designer is making clothes that look weird on anyone who isn't Thom Browne...I have however seen many Thom Browne's walking the streets this year. His designs have slowly eroded many of our beliefs on what a good suit should be, he has made us question many things about something so simple (or so we thought) as the practical, 'safe' option, the suit. He has done this to such an extent that the same people who initially laughed at the proportions of his creations are now desperate for his next line, whilst feeling self conscious if their ankles are covered. In my opinion he deserves the designer of the year accolade for this alone. Are you happy with GQ's choice?