Saturday, 18 February 2012

J. LIndeberg AW12, A day in the Arctic

J.LIndeberg Feature Button AW12

Last Autumn/Winter (AW11) J. Lindeberg explored the dramatic coastlines of Scandinavia and through the dark water of the deep fjords and the soaring glacial mountains in a collection that saw the label its endeavour of redefining modern classics with a particularly Scandinavian point of view. For AW12, under the fine creative stewardship of Head Designer, Jessy Heuvelink, they expanded the parameters of inspiration and were drawn to the the vast isolated arctic landscape. A horizon of white silence where ice and snow stretch far around, interrupted only by grey mountain peaks and the Northern Lights casting surreal drapes of colour through the night skies. The air is crystal clear, intense and desolate, yet there is still life and damn does it dress well. Entitled 'A day in the Arctic,' I couldn't help but think of the Ice Flow song from The Mighty Boosh...

Howard Moon: The arctic has no respect for fashion, Vince. You know, never take the tundra lightly. It can drive a man insane. You know what it is about this place, that gets people mad?
Vince Noir: Not really.
Howard Moon: Have a look through there... what do you see?
Vince Noir: [looks through binoculars] Nothing.
Howard Moon: Exactly. It's the nothingness... the whiteness... the endless... ness. Stretching on beyond the human imagination.

However, rather than be engulfed by nothingness and blinded by the whiteness, Heuvelink cracked through the ice, looked deeper and saw a whole new world. I managed to grab the designer for a quick post presentation interview for Bon and the talent talked me through his inspiration:

"It was a little journey, from the middle section of Scandinavia all the way to upper arctic region. The collection follows the different sights encountered from region to region, from the Evergreen tiger, up through the Tundra and the plains through to the arctic but rather than focus on the ice, we went deeper and looked at the ocean and discovered beautiful blue glacial tones."

As snow fell outside, the collection was presented in a Salon style, with each look introduced and eloquently explained by the head designer himself. It was an intimate and personal experience that afforded the ideal opportunity to snap furiously at this detail heavy collection... 

Detail shots from the presentation.

"I’m inspired by the rough, arctic landscape and by garments that have evolved from a specific need - for utility and function in combination with the latest technical innovations - updating, developing and transforming them for the modern and active man."

The AW12 collection sees garments show true versatility whilst continuing to focus on the core elements that have come to define the J.Lindeberg Men’s Collection; a Scandinavian heritage, functional technology and progressive tailoring. The sartorial choices of the early pioneers are adapted for the modern traveller of today with innovative fabrications and construction, providing full protection and flexibility, for journeys in adventurous remote parts of the world or bustling metropolitan streets of the city.

Bridging both style and function, outerwear takes on a versatile role through technical Japanese fabrics, ultra-lightweight finishes and detachable inner vests for maximum temperature control, ensuring easy navigation between different climates, regions and time zones. Hybrid garments combine a tailored fit with performance, for example the 'Wilhelm' jacket sports a luxurious Italian Loro Piana fabric that is both waterproof and wind resistant, whilst also remaining fully breathable. Vests are woven, padded or knitted providing the ideal item for autumnal layering and trans-seasonal periods, worn beneath a blazer or instead of a jacket. Outer shirts and shorts are quilted with down and worn over knitted leggings, drawing inspiration from the early Arctic explorers, whilst items of different textures and lengths are contrasted and layered over and under one another. This layering enables the tailoring to continue with its signature, precise silhouette. Exclusive blanket weaves in pioneering fabrications showcase colours and patterns which graduate into one another, or are colour blocked and patchworked in contrast. A sartorial collaboration with Italian manufacturer Gianfranco Bomenzzadri di Parma will be launched in the J.Lindeberg stores during autumn.

The collection showcases my own personal favourite hues for the colder months. The colour palette references nature in the depth of winter. It looks to the cold snow plains of crisp optic whites, light grey horizons and ice blue seas. The fascinating phenomenon of the Northern lights provide vivid accent colours of greens, electric reds and burgundies, that contrast against the deep blues of the night sky and muted greens and browns that form the vegetation of the Arctic tundra. A stunning palette whatever the season but particularly apt for Autumn and Winter.

As soon as myself and parts of the collection returned to London, I couldn't resist taking another look so dropped by their East London based showroom...


The ever growing accessories collection includes a full offering of scarves, ties, belts and gloves in numerous blends and weaves of cashmeres, wool and silks. However, it is the footwear that really caught my eye but sadly not the lens of my camera. Classical inspired shoes are reworked and updated into contemporary wing tip brogues, lace shoes and high strap boots ready to take on the rough elements or for an effortless urban elegance. An exclusive shoe range in collaboration with Alfred Sargent will also be launched this season and they were a real star of the presentation (more on this another time). 

Now, the Arctic itself might not hold much respect for fashion but Jessy Heuvelink's designs certainly respect its power and beauty. 


Heroika Magazine said...

I love this collection, it is very light with a touch of dandy touch

Matthew Spade said...

nice to see you're still championing JL, they seem to have some cracking stuff and do it with integrity

Maarten Gubbens said...

Their all designs are fabulous and they inspire me a lot...


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