On my bike...

In a month that hears so many resolutions declared with a mix of positive intention, sheer hope and wild abandon, I've stated that I need to exercise my ageing shell before the task becomes insurmountable. Rather than so many short-lived resolutions that are made at the beginning of the year only to be thrown out with the brown lifeless twig skeleton of the Christmas tree (thanks largely to the allure of a well filled sarnie of leftovers), I hope mine lasts. In addition to the physical, there's also a practical element to it. After so many frustrating commutes of unpredictable bus journeys, I've decided to take matters in to my own hands (and legs) and invested in two wheels. Having cycled back from the Tokyobike workshop on Friday evening two things became clear. Firstly, my fitness is even worse than estimated and secondly, I have to rethink my commuting outfit. The task is balancing style with functionality.

Now, with the likes of Rapha, Pedaled and the Timothy Everest designed John Boultbee line (to name but a few), there are a number of options out there. However, rather than merely splurge on my own capsule collection for cycling, I've opted to rethink items already hanging in my wardrobe. Thankfully, my search was greatly helped by the relatively recent addition of a few items from the Nike x Undercover Gyakusou AW11 collection. Merging the best in modern innovation, the third installment of this intriguing collaboration is rooted in a simple philosophy focused on fulfilling a crucial mission: to create the best running product that strikes the perfect balance between style and absolute functionality. Ignoring its concentrated focus on pavement pounding because lets face it, I think taking up jogging is quite literally a step too far for me, I decided to take advantage of its stylishly packaged fabric innovation for my endeavours on two wheels. Today I road tested two jackets whilst striving to find a balance between sportswear and tailoring...

Two jackets from the Nike x Undercover Gyakusou AW11 collection worn with... 
a white t shirt from Sunspel, my trusty Ganryu suit and Lanvin hi tops.

"From the first collection, I have a consistent concept on colour. I pick the ones that blend well with the nature and the city at the same time, which is an important concept for Gyakusou”, explained the designer. Takahashi designed the collection with thoughtful details that diminish distraction and enhance the meditative quality of running while fitting perfectly in the classically Japanese environment. These pieces have certainly inspired me to get mobile but when I'm stationary, it is hard not to admire the details...

A number of close up detail shots.

"Technological innovation allows designers the freedom of new shapes and fall. There are so many new man-made fibres in sportswear. For designers, it opens doors." This sentence was uttered by the curator of the V&A's Fashion Vs Sport exhibition, Ligaya Salazar,  in the exhibition notes and it has stayed lodged in my brain ever since. The effect sporstwear has on fashion should not be underestimated. Lines like Nike x Undercover Gyakusou which combine the best in modern innovation, such as advanced lightweight, waterproof and breathable materials with traditional craftsmanship, help make the influence that more obvious. Now I'm on two wheels, I'm attempting to strike a covetable balance between style and functionality. Here's hoping this resolution lasts.

Inspired... Berthold AW12

In 2009 Raimund Berthold launched his eponymous line of creative yet functional menswear. "I remember feeling that menswear was either a bit samey or too crazy and overwhelming in London. What I do is not about completely reinventing menswear," the designer states. The Central Saint Martins graduate's philosophy is simple; to design interesting, well made and inspirational clothing for everyday wear. His collections are characterised by a utilitarian sense of colour and a silhouette that is free from defined shape in nylon, neoprene and synthetic fabrics cut against natural wool and cotton. Berthold is confident, sophisticated and refined. His are bold clothes crafted for men lead by inventive design and fit – not by fashion. "I think it’s important that people can see where the clothes have come from, from where they have evolved," he proclaims. This blogger could not agree more with this sentiment. So, with these words ringing in my ears I visited the designer at his studio to see just where his AW12 collection came from. Here, Raimund introduces his methods and allows us to take a close look at his mood board...

"I stick found and shot images on my silver foil, I've been doing this for years and I just love the appearance of it, I throw these marathon blankets over everything really and they always look perfect. They aren't mood boards as such, for me, this collection of images merely provide a reminder to myself of a small detail. I take many of the photographs myself, from things I notice on the street to an empty glass in my kitchen, I enjoy taking them out of context and experimenting with them. One of the main inspirations for AW12 was a vintage garment that I found, an ancient brute of an army overcoat. It was the detailing; the zips and the use of velcro in particular. Much of the collection evolved from this item, I designed from this garment and it took me to places where I might not have gone otherwise. I had never thought about using velcro before..." 

From a series of detail shots of a well worn overcoat from yesteryear to cropped modern day street style shots, Raimund's studio is dissected by this shimmering wall of curiosities...

A selection of Raimund's own photographs and scans of curiosities that played a part in shaping AW12. 

"My design process is quite organic. There are two aspects to it really. First, my research either entails discovering a catalyst that sparks the thought process (and for this collection that was the army overcoat) or in other instances, I approach it with a clear mind and spend a day in the library going through book after book, collating images that do something and inspire me to start sketching. In both cases I keep the design quite loose initially. It is more about a feeling, a silhouette, shape, a length or rough details because I work with a pattern cutter. Now, if you sign off garments when you work with a factory, you have to be very specific but it is a real luxury to work with a pattern cutter or if you work on them yourself because you can think about it as you do it. When you start working on a garment you can uncover clever additions or notice amendments that elevate it, then of course it can all change again during the first fitting. This ability to change is important. There is only finality when the last toile is made." Raimund Berthold

----------

Details: Seeing Stars

One of The Contemporary Fix team inside the Tokyo Fashion Week area at Pitti Uomo wearing Facetasm. Dazzled by a white shirt thanks to the addition of embroidered colourful stars.

AW12 Illustrated (Part One)

The last few weeks have whizzed by and left an ever blurring vapour trail of memories of catwalk parades, presentations and tradeshows as designers and labels scattered across our fashion capitals unveiled their AW12 collections. As the 'fashun menswear machine' takes a much needed rest following its exploits in Florence, Milan and Paris, we thought it was the right time to pause the conveyor belt of look books and show reports and take stock.

Over the coming weeks we will take our time to explore and examine our favourite collections but first we'd like to offer a quick visual reminder. Now, going to the shows is a wonderful experience but looking over catwalk photos and reading somewhat tedious analysis afterwards can be a bit mind numbing. So, to help bring the day to life we enlisted the help of recent graduate Anne-Marie Jones (check out her blog if you can) to illustrate our favourite moments of the season so far. Highlights include Claire Malcolm's kaleidescopic celebration of grey flannel for Hardy Amies, Raf Simons' corporate army cloaked in leather for Jil Sander, Dries Van Noten's well tailored canvas showcasing his collaboration with Dutch graphic artists Gijs Frieling and Job Wouters, Kris Van Assche's uniform of sartorial sportswear for Dior Homme and Jonathan Saunder's eye poppingly printastic sophomore menswear collection. Here, the immediacy of Anne-Marie's artwork brings back a real sense of each show and captures just why each look was selected... 

All artwork by Anne-Marie Jones especially for us.

Earlier this week Cathy Horyn noted that "there is such an emphasis these days on high-end luxury that many collections lack energy and certainly risk-taking" which wonderfully summarises the prevalent mood but, as captured by Anne-Marie, there were still moments that excited. The wheels of menswear have hardly been reinvented this season but a number of designers have polished the spokes...

Details... Contrast sleeves

I fear that I'm becoming obsessed with fabric play at the moment. As I'm drunk on heady combinations,  here's a closer look at the tweed sleeves on my Dries Van Noten jacket. 

Uniform of Support

Given Arsenal's current struggles I felt that I needed to do more to help the cause. Other than fill in at full back, what better way to offer myself than devise an Arsenal supporting uniform? With the top half of the ensemble already in place (shirt, scarf and the 125 Destroyer Jacket), a flash of red and white was needed for the lower without looking absolutely ridiculous. The solution was found in the discovery of a NikeiD voucher and, after a few mulled ciders during a festive dinner with friends, a pair of Nike Dunk Lows that would bring a tear to Arsene Wenger's eyes were conceived. A few weeks later and the trainers were born, delivered just in time for the not so Super Sunday. Yesterday was the perfect opportunity to wear them and even though they did little to improve the scoreline, they helped me see in Chinese New Year with the Lau clan and a table busting feast. Gung hay fat choy!

Polimoda introduces Erïk Bjerkesjö

Pitti Uomo is far more than a tradeshow. Yes, as previously mentioned below, the eighty first edition helped showcase the AW12 collections of one thousand and thirty three brands in all manner of booths and presentations at the Fortezza da Basso but over the course of its scheduled four days the entire city of Florence becomes a platform for fashion. Rather than merely present products in a formulaic and expected manner, the series of well curated exhibitions, shows and events that are scattered throughout this beautiful setting spark excitement, thought and discovery. One of the real highlights of the latest edition was the debut of Polimoda Future Lab.

Polimoda is an Italian centre of excellence, recognised worldwide for its high quality, fashion-oriented, didactic offering that ranges from design and marketing to management and communication, always in close relation to the business world. Under the guidance of its Dean Linda Loppa, a world renowned name in the fashion education field that requires no introduction from me, Polimoda continues to grow and inspire. Now in its new premises of Villa Favard, set in a beautiful and ancient architectural complex on the banks of the river Arno, the Florentine creative institution unveiled a launching pad for graduates. Comprising of shows, installations, talks, workshops, Polimoda Future Lab is devoted to its former students and allows them present their vision of the future of fashion. Scheduled to coincide with Pitti Uomo 81, the first talent to be presented on this platform was Erïk Bjerkesjö.

Bjerkesjö, originally from Stockholm, was attracted to the promise of Polimoda and graduated with a Masters in Footwear and Accessories Design (2009-2010). He has since launched his own collection of clothing and accessories that marry his native eye with Florence's sense of aesthetics, its culture, art and crafts. There is an intriguing interplay between Swedish minimalism and the craftsmanship of Italy throughout that indicates the impact of his studies on his design. "Studying at Polimoda was in my opinion the best thing that has happened to me, two of my teachers and mentors included Patrick De Muynck and Diane Becker" revealed the design talent in an interview with Polimoda's very own Linda Loppa before continuing, "I learned a great deal, especially to believe in my vision and to create them without feeling forced." In addition to creative freedom, the opportunity to work with fashion companies and the proximity to areas of textile and leather production undoubtedly shaped his work. Each item of clothing and pair of shoes epitomises his singular vision and profound passion for well made design. Lets start with a look at his well crafted footwear...

Lookbook shots accompanied by my own shots from the presentation. 

Credits: Art Direction by Magnus Liljebergh and set design: Joel Junsjö / Lundlund.

The hand bevelled waist, fine punching on its toe cap and sleekly rounded almond shaped soles are all bespoke details of his footwear collection whilst the application of eighteen carat gold pins add a touch of glamour and Erïk Bjerkesjö's meticulously etched signature on the upper element of the sole, in the historic logotype from the Tuscany region, symbolises the traditional mastery of local skills. From well honed Tuscan shoe making practises to crafting armour from aluminium by his own hand, the design process is extensive. The result is an assortments of exquisite handmade treasures, quintessentially beautiful with a dash of unmistakable traditional mastery.

Whilst respecting tradition, the design talent learns from the craftsmanship of Tuscany and is nothing short of inspired. In addition to technique, Bjerkesjö is inspired by these artisans. What they wear and how they look have helped shaped his design. With precise details, precious materials and exquisite skins, he aims to define a new concept of male elegance. Photographed by Magnus Klackenstam with Art Direction from Magnus Liljebergh, his look book for Galop Marquis captures this spirit wonderfully...

Having accompanied them in their personal growth and guided them in the search for their own path, Polimoda introduce a selection of their students to the public thanks to this new project, There can be little doubt that Polimoda Future Lab will introduce us to to future stars of the industry and Erïk Bjerkesjö might just be one of them.

Details: Pitti Print

As Tommy Ton snapped away at the sartorial peacocks parading around Pitti Uomo, it was his own mix of print and textures that caught my eye. I love the mix of Patrik Ervell's braided horeshair strapped backpack and layering of his rose print jacket by Miharayasuhiro worn over a quilted jacket by Andrea Pompilio.