Monday, 25 January 2010

Throup presents his objects for the lower body

Aitor Throup shows some leg. Presentation image from Dazed Digital.

Aitor Throup's work is distinct, communicating a conceptual approach to design while still creating accessible garments. His work is primarily focused on exploring new structural solutions to clothe the human body. Over the weekend throughout the Galerie Jean-Luc and Takako Richard in Paris, Throup presented his work on the lower body, the seemingly simple trouser to be precise. Thirty eight pairs of trousers from Throup's design past (from 2004-2009) were sculpted on meticulously crafted forms and suspended from the ceiling. The presentation demonstrated the designer's distinct ability to unite form with function whilst explicitly demonstrating the designers fascination with structure and process. Alas I missed out on the presentation itself but Dazed Digital has an interesting article with the designer which sheds more light on it all. To make up for missing out on Paris, I've been watching the stop motion animation of the project which Throup made with the help of Ken-Tonio Yamamoto (whilst taking some screen grabs to share with you)...

I often recall a remark he made in a piece for the Independent: "I only believe in origin, process and innovation." Throup is only interested in justifying each and ever design feature whilst avoiding gratuitous detailing. This mantra is no more apparent than The Funeral of New Orleans. This was Throup's first presentation as part of the MAN showcase in AW08 (the film made with Jez Tozer can be seen over Showstudio). It was a response to the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina. Throup's collection told the story, through clothes, of how five members of a marching band protect themselves and their instruments. The presentation confirmed Throup's radical approach to both fashion design and the communication of his collections.

Aitor Throup’s 2006 MA collection, “When Football Hooligans Become Hindu Gods” was a three-dimensional comic communicating the story of redemption and transcendence. This story was told through fabric structures which are based on the platform of football casual.s The more technical fabrics provided a sense of British culture, but more specifically of the C.P. Company and Stone Island – led ‘casual’ or ‘football hooligan’ sub-culture of the late 80s and the 90s (on which the over-all aesthetic of the collection is based). Throup's work is generally very structured and technical (in terms of construction), to the extent of being sculptural. Using traditional wools, such as Harris Tweed, not only created yet another unexpected contrast against the structural aspects of the pieces but it also facilitates the moulding and distortion of the fabric by using traditional heat application techniques. I will never tire of analysing this collection or any other of Throup's designs...

Consider my appetite well and truly whet for the prospect of what is to come from this exciting designer next month at LFW. In the meantime why not watch the full stop motion animation on Aitor's website which gives you a three hundred and sixty degree view of each of the trousers features.


Adele Parker said...

He is extremely talented. There is some amazing RCA student work in the V&A that is worth looking at. Very inspiring. Katy Eary's work is incredible.


By: Jason A. said...

its nice to hear that throup is still going at it. i remember when i first read about him as a designer to look out for and then recognizing some of his art work on haight st. in SF. and now look at him... AMAZING. i cant wait to see what he has up his sleeve next.

Style Salvage Steve said...

Adele Parker: I agree, Katie Eary's work is amazing. At times her design work although impactful on the runway is under appreciated because you really need to see the intricate detail up close.
By: Jason A: Neither can I. I have been an excited fan boy for some time and it is great to hear that he will soon be presenting a new collection.

Matthew Spade said...

yeah i really respect what he stands up for and love that fact that a subject like football hooligans with such stigma doesnt stop him from designing what he believes in. so inspiring, as is katy earys work, wonder what she will have to offer this time around at LFW?!?!


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